|May 11, 2008, 07:08 AM|
What shocky do I build to improve my skills?
I´d like to build a shockflyer to continue improving my 3D skills, but there are too many to choose and I don´t know what are the differences, if any, between all the models I´ve seen avaible as plans.
It´s going to be my 3rd 3D. My first was the little 60cm (24 inches) MicroYak from HobbyLobby, then I built a 125% of the same plane, wich flies much better (more stable) than the original one. It´s 76cm wingspan (30 inches) and weights 160g AUW.
I´d like to keep the size and weight, but I want to continue learning 3D, and I need a plane that is able to perform whatever maneouver I want to learn/practice, and I don´t want to have an excuse when some maneouver is not performed as it should (you know, "this plane can´t perform that thing, it´s not me" ) no no no, I want to be pushed
I can do torque rolls, harriers, KE, some sort of spins... but I want to go one step beyond
The setup I have is this:
Hyperion 1705-11 2200kv
TP 2s 730mah
Himodel profesional 10A esc
Waypoint 4g? servos
GWS 8x4,3 prop
AUW 160g (5,6oz)
With the old 7x3 prop of the first microyak it was hard to pull out from a torque, but with the 8x4,3 it climbs with lots of authority from a torque, I guess the thrust must be around 280-300g (I´ve tested the same plane with an AUW of 220g and it still can climb from a torque)
The problem is I don´t know too much about shockflyers, and there are sooo many plans out there that I need some advise from people who have built some of them
What do you recommend me to build?
|May 11, 2008, 02:49 PM|
There's not a lot of difference between the various plans, but there are a lot of small companies trying to make their product stand out by making a few changes and claiming it makes a huge difference.
A few things I've learnt:
* the fuselage should be at least 2/3rds of the wing area
* the rudder should be balanced around the centre-line, to limit knife edge coupling
* you need something to stop tail twist, but it doesn't have to be fancy
* wheels are necessary indoors but no use outdoors
The other thing I'd say is that your gear is most suitable for an indoor model. A larger model with (for example) a 100W motor, 3s1000 battery and 9g servos will cope with more wind, and be smoother and more predictable.
|May 11, 2008, 07:03 PM|
If you want to improve your 3D skills, think EPP.
If you have a source of EPP, then there are plenty of free plans of good flying planes to try and compare. I like my Yak54 best, after a dozen or so others. But, it's a personal choice There are great comments on most of them. Try to follow some of the 3D planes from the free plans sticky.
|May 12, 2008, 07:14 AM|
Thanks, I´ve been watching the plans, but there are too many to choose if you don´t have experience with any of them
EPP would be nice, if it would weight half its actual weight I like light planes, even for outdoors. I don´t bother if I can´t fly it so much as if it would be heavier, I prefer a light plane, wich always fly much better and slower.
Robin, there are any proportion between wingspan and lenght I should follow? Aerobatics planes are 1:1, but for the shockys I´m seeing the wingspan is usually a bit higher. I was thinking about lenghtening the tail of my miniyak a little, but then I´d need to lenghten the nose too to keep the CG, and I don´t have any clue of what the nose moment do and what would I change...
Any advise here?
|May 12, 2008, 04:16 PM|
|May 12, 2008, 05:07 PM|
Really? I didn´t know it...
But even being lighter, it bends much more, and needs much more material (thicker parts) and reinforcements to achieve the needed strengh, so the final result is a heavier plane
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