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Old Jun 13, 2008, 08:53 AM
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
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About the OLY lll airfoil ... Sailplanes are all about the airfoil, wing area combined with aspect ratio and wing loading.

I use the S 3014 on the OLY lll, OLY ll S, Bird Series and others because it will penetrate at extremely light wing loadings as in my Lil Bird 2, Sunbird, 2M Lil Bird and others, but will thermal exceptionally well at very heavily ballasted wing loadings. I chose the S-3014 at a time when the 3021 was the rage. After experimenting with both airfoils, I discovered the S 3014 had a much gentler stall, was much easier to fly with the balance point rearward which also improves performance. The added benefit of the S 3014 is the tip panels do not require washout.

Dr Selig designed the S 3014 for the west coast slope racers to be heavily loaded, Charlie Richards was the first to use it in his Renagade and I think I made a believer out of Jack Womack after he built and flew my Sky Bird. I first used it in my Lil Bird 2 hand launch and had a ball defying windy conditions unballasted on long down wind returns.

I have had customer reports that the OLY lll built with flaps and ailerons is awesome.

I have stayed with the S 3014 for several reasons and very glad I did, because now, so many of my customers are powering my kits with e power and the S 3014 is absolutly perfect for this application.

I fly my S 3014 with the balance point back as far as I can handle it and when the wind comes up, I just add a couple clicks of down trim and fly in 15 mph winds with no problem.

Enjoy the woodys, there fun to build and fly.

Ray
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Old Jun 13, 2008, 01:50 PM
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Bedford, TX
Joined Oct 2007
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Ray,

I'm confused. Notes from Jim Deck in the Oly III instructions on your site say-
"REMEMBER: The tip panel has 1/4" Wash out. Prop up the trailing edge at the tip rib by 1/4". Is this not true?

Don
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Old Jun 13, 2008, 02:19 PM
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Prescott Arizona
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I believe the designer and the plans say different. Build it straight, it will fly straight and will not tip stall.
Bobby
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Old Jun 13, 2008, 03:11 PM
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
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I understand the confusion, the instructions your referring to were completed independent from any of my input. And that is the way I like it, but in this case it is an oversight on my part to let it get through. I think I have the " no washout " plastered all over my web on my Bird Series and others, but Terry was never exposed to those kits.

One of the problems for builders is getting the washout equal in both wing tips, the longer the tips, the greater the problem.

Ray
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Old Jun 13, 2008, 03:20 PM
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
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PS .....

Effective today, Sky Bench won't be shipping new orders until after Wood Crafters.

Gonna have a lot of fun flying Woodys June 27, 28, 29 at AMA, Muncie, Indiana.

Ray
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Old Jun 13, 2008, 04:23 PM
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Bedford, TX
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Thanks guys, straight it is...
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Old Jun 16, 2008, 08:34 AM
ahh crap! crunch..
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Australia, QLD, Fraser Island
Joined Nov 2007
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I'm trying for straight too. But the weather has been playing games.

I began assembling the fuse when time allowed, the day after I joined the fuse sides with the main bulkheads the weather changed from 25 degrees C, 94% relative humidity to 17 degrees C, 52% RH overnight. I knew the change was coming, but didn't gamble on the transition being so fast.
You can imagine how the laminated sides responded to this, I should have taken a before and after photo.
With a bit of re-setting its looking healthy again, but to witness the timber shrink so suddenly makes your stomach turn a bit. RH is still below 60% so its stable for building for some time yet.
Apart from that, its an enjoyable build so far.
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Old Jun 16, 2008, 10:19 AM
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Bedford, TX
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Holy crap! I never considered that drastic of an effect due to environmental variables. What happens if you build to completion indoors at 75 and 20% RH and then take it to a field that's 98 and 70% RH? Will it even fly? Is it best to build in an average RH environment like a warm (not hot) garage?
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Old Jun 16, 2008, 10:26 AM
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atmosteve
I'm trying for straight too. But the weather has been playing games.

I began assembling the fuse when time allowed, the day after I joined the fuse sides with the main bulkheads the weather changed from 25 degrees C, 94% relative humidity to 17 degrees C, 52% RH overnight. I knew the change was coming, but didn't gamble on the transition being so fast.
You can imagine how the laminated sides responded to this, I should have taken a before and after photo.
With a bit of re-setting its looking healthy again, but to witness the timber shrink so suddenly makes your stomach turn a bit. RH is still below 60% so its stable for building for some time yet.
Apart from that, its an enjoyable build so far.


Are you reffering to the Big Bird wood sides being laminated to teh 1/64" ply doubler ? if so, what glue did you use, sounds like water based wood glue.


Ray
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Old Jun 16, 2008, 06:39 PM
ahh crap! crunch..
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Australia, QLD, Fraser Island
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwells
Holy crap! I never considered that drastic of an effect due to environmental variables. What happens if you build to completion indoors at 75 and 20% RH and then take it to a field that's 98 and 70% RH? Will it even fly? Is it best to build in an average RH environment like a warm (not hot) garage?
Hi dwells I think if the fuse had been at the box stage of completion the effect would not have been as drastic, in this case the sides had a lot more scope for movement without the other panels glued on.

Ray I am trying a new PVA glue for some parts of the build, along with the usual epoxy and CA. Its true that the worst of the twist was at the ply doubler joint. It would have been less severe if I had used the epoxy, but still evident I feel. Almost all the kits components were effected, the forward ply bottom sheet lifted an inch and a half at either end, with a bit of weight and thought they are all coming good.

So, next time I would epoxy the laminated fuse parts to be safe. Yep, keep an eye out for weather extremes when building. True while flying too, back in the days when almost everyone built their own models from kit or scratch, travelling to comps and meets some distance away made us consider the weather very carefully, specially sailplanes, no different from today I guess but now we have top online resources to help us plan.
If you had something quick and precise like a fast pattern ship you would almost definitely have to tweak the trim to compensate for some movement in the timbers due to some changing ground weather.
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Old Jun 17, 2008, 09:27 AM
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Epoxy for me...
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Old Jun 17, 2008, 09:35 AM
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If your really expierenced, talented, practiced, know how to set up a pin jig and lucky, you can laminate 1/64" ply to balsa fuse sides with ... CA

Ray
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Old Jun 17, 2008, 09:42 AM
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Prescott Arizona
Joined Mar 2005
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To laminate those sides Im now using a piece of glass that came from a coffee table. I had to get it cut down to a usable size. It is thick and I can see right through it so it is easy to assure alignments and I can easily tell if there is any glue that needs to be removed before it sets up. I can place a lot of weight on it and can use less epoxy. Once I thinned down the epoxy with alchohol and used just weights and the results were a fuse with lifted edges between the weights, wont do that again. When applying the epoxy I drizzle some on both parts and spread it out and scrape it off with a plastic card until no more will come off, then I assemble the pieces.
Bobby
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Old Jun 17, 2008, 09:43 AM
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Then it's definitely epoxy for me
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Old Jun 17, 2008, 10:30 AM
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Bedford, TX
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Hey Bobby, the glass sounds like a great idea. I have a piece of 3/8" in the garage from a table and 3/8" on a table in my living room...can't get much flatter than that. The wife will only have to live with it for short time
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