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Old Sep 18, 2008, 05:54 AM
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Coiling receiver wire is great for short range planes, not for 2M or larger sailplanes that will be flown high and far. You might get away with it, but why do it? Let the antenna hang out the back, or run it up the fin. No problem and you will maintain the range.
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Old Sep 18, 2008, 08:19 PM
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Now good people you may recall that I have shocking PS painting skills ; This was Jim Allen's fine looking Oly from Ray's website after I got to it




That was the idea for a good all round visibilty colour scheme anyway. Not sure about the fluro green against a background of trees on a landing approach, but it has to be way better than the plain colours like the yellows and greens some of my past models have had. Luckily my covering skills are a little better than the PS skills.

Have got this far, so far




Using solarfilm again is odd if you have gotten used to heavier films like profilm or monokote, its reaction to heat is completely different. But with a bit of working the results are worth it. You just have to get over the initial shock of it wrinkling up under a moderate iron temp faster than your family jewels if plonked into a bucket of ice. Yep its that rapid.
Also, the transparent solarfilm seems to have a higher tolerance to heat than the plain solarfilm colours, which for me have melted a little in the tight spots unless low temp is used.
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Old Sep 19, 2008, 08:59 PM
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Nice looking OLY lll. I recieved photos from a customer in Germany that built his OLY lll with ailerons. I have yellow solarfilm on the wings of my Gulf Coaster ... really shows up very well at high altitudes.
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Old Sep 30, 2008, 09:50 PM
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Ailerons you say Ray.. The thought never occured to me..
If I enter this big woody in an Aussie open event I will need every bit of control help I can get!

Yellow works for me too, I remember back to getting some real height with an Aeroflyte Trident 2500 (anyone remember them?) and the trans yellow worked so well in blue and cloud filled skies.
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Old Sep 30, 2008, 10:06 PM
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Yippee again.. its back to playing with aero toys!

Got a few days off this week, so it's time to crack the whip and make some progress, no slacking off around here..

First thing today was to set up an AOI meter, which was a rudimentry CF and Aliminium affair, not flash, but it worked well enough. I had a slight rise in the rear of my box fuse, see first pic. This is due only to weather and probably my building too. It turns out we need a 1mm shim at the LE of the tailfin to get the prescribed alignment as per plan. The fix will be good old machining and flat sanding of the fuses tailfin joint surface this arv, while periodically checking fin alignment.

Thats the nice thing about woodies, we can't take things for granted and have to get really involved with the aircraft. It's nice knowing every grain and join in a model
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Old Sep 30, 2008, 10:20 PM
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I had a read of Bob Legue's and Terry Forbes' instructions for how to secure the OlyIII top box cover and the canopy, but for some reason my brain failed to make much sense of it . Which is odd because I found their instruction pages a great help otherwise, thanks for writing them guys.

Here is my improvised arrangment for the box cover anyways, the underside of the cover has a nice groove machined into it to accomodate the main wing joiner tube, and it pins in through the front of the ply former through a small plastic tube fitted and glued into the front of the cover. Hopefully its foolproof; when the canopy is fitted it fits over the bent pin, securing it.

Because I'm using a tape to secure the wings to the fuse, I don't have anything arranged to secure the rear of the top box cover. Its a tight fit as it is, and the tape will run across the top of it too.
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Old Sep 30, 2008, 10:32 PM
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Peering inside the fuse with the cover removed, reveals my beefy towhook mount re-inforcing. The kit provided a thin ply mount and screw in hook that was probably adequate, but rudimentry. This will be a relocatable bolt through hook affair, locatable over a length to be determined by test trimming and CG.
Fingers crossed, the bottom fuse sheeting won't be heading south on a hard launch.
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Old Sep 30, 2008, 10:46 PM
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As for fitting the canopy, I come up with this; The small rolled pin in the kit makes a good locator pin to slot the front of the canopy into the ply noseblock, the nose block also has a dirty great hole drilled in it to accept balancing lead.

But what to do to secure the back of the canopy!!!!!

I must have spent the past three months avoiding the question, I've ended up with another pin arrangment that passes through one side of the fuse, and just into the other.
Basically I sandwich glued a thin snake rod tube between to bits of balsa and glued that to the canopy bottom, fitting snugly between the fuse sides.
The hard bit was figuring out where to drill through the fuse side so it lines up with the tiny tube!
It turned out ok and the pin doesnt pass through the other side, keeping it clean. The bent pin on the outside of the fuse is pretty snug, and is held in by some canopy spring tension- given by the front locator pin position.

I guess we could go about this part of the build in any number of ways, these were just ones my brain could understand.
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Old Sep 30, 2008, 10:50 PM
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Truth be known

If I spent as much time on the build as I did on the internet posting pics and stuff, the Oly would have been finished weeks ago!

Gotta go now, its time to break out the fuse forming gear, get all nice and dusty and make that long fuse all nice and curvy.
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Old Oct 01, 2008, 08:44 AM
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Easy build

The photo is from Germany, here is Manfred's quote:

"The kit was excellent, the building quite easy, and the model is a real goodie; mine got ailerons (may be used as spoilers as well)."

In my view, one of the many joys of having the time ( or taking it, meaning choosing between internet time or building time ) and the skill ( or developing the skill ) to build our own models AND ADD OUR OWN MODIFICATIONS is time well spent. A Satisfaction that can only be earned with our own hands.



Ray
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Old Oct 01, 2008, 04:58 PM
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Hi Ray, I was wondering if the Oly from Germany had outboard ailerons, much more roll effective than inboard flaperons I'd reckon.
Has anyone you have known coupled their OlyIII inboard flaps to the rudder as ailerons?
Its not something I would generally use in flight with this kind of bird, I'm a bit of a believer in the efficiency of rudder during silent flight. Mostly I was thinking as an aid to rudder on a landing approach, while they weren't dropped that is.
Steve.
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Old Oct 01, 2008, 05:45 PM
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Steve, your plane is coming along nicely...thanks for the pics. I've pondered the securing of the hatch and canopy myself...good ideas you have there. Can't wait till this fire thing is over so I can get back to building myself.

Ray, thanks for the pic of the Oly, first one I've seen in the air...very graceful looking.
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Old Oct 02, 2008, 04:48 AM
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Don, I can only try to imagine what a mess it must be to clean up after the housefire.

Check out the polyhedral setup on that German OlyIII, looks sensible for aileron effect. Red's such a great color in the air.
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Old Oct 02, 2008, 05:04 AM
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I haven't heard from those that have flaps installed if they have coupled them to the rudder, try it and let us know the results.

Clicking on the photo shows the ailerons are located on the tips. Most guys that are expeirencing flaps and/or ailerons for the first time on any sailplane usually have the throws set up to high and results in too much drag.

The evalution of moldies has seen the wings become slightly polyherdal and the rudder/fin areas have grown a lot. They are flown with mostly rudder and slight amount of aileron during thermalling flight. It is all about keeping drag to a minimum. There are weather conditions when circling any type of sailplane brings them down faster due to the high drag during circling.

The main benefit of flaps on an OLY lll is during landings. Many if not most pilots use a coupled stab to flaps while landing on any type of sailplane.

During flight, dropping the flaps approx. 1/16" is a good place to start learning the effects they have during thermalling flight. It takes a lot of flight time to learn when and how much flap to use.

Best advice on flaps I can give is don't use them during thermal flight until the best balance location is determined. This can take many flights and stab settings. Any sailplane has to be properly balanced before using flaps during thermal flight to have the correct reference point to observe what the different flap deflections accomplish. Knowing the plane and correct balance point is mandatory before starting to use flaps to improve thermal flight. Then the learning curve starts on when and how much to use flaps during circling, during different lift conditons, in different wind conditons.

It always boils down to pilot skill and how well the pilot knows his sailplane.



Ray
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atmosteve
Hi Ray, I was wondering if the Oly from Germany had outboard ailerons, much more roll effective than inboard flaperons I'd reckon.
Has anyone you have known coupled their inboard flaps to the rudder as ailerons?
Its not something I would personally use in flight, I'm a bit of a believer in the efficiency of rudder during silent flight. Mostly I was thinking as an aid to rudder on a landing approach, while they weren't dropped that is.
Steve.
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Old Oct 02, 2008, 07:32 AM
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That sounds like good common sense to me Ray. At first I'll set up my Oly CG as per plan then wittle away at finding the best CG point/ballsating combo for different flying conditions over time. You are right, this process is something not to be rushed.

Don, ages ago you asked about the idea of a removable tailfin set up. I had to ditch the idea for time to work on the build. In fact I was planning a four piece wing also, but ditched that too simply from time constraints.

Hey the earth is starting to heat up again down here fellows, just observing the flying behaviour of the birds, some migratory, is showing up the lift. Quite soon the dirty big Cumulonimbus clouds will again form. We get some wild electrical storms here in summer. The air in this area is either thick, hot and pretty humid, or we get a change from the west and it gets hot, dry and more active, its desert air reaching us.
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