I've done more damage with hanger rash before it's even seen the airstrip than I have with a dodgy landing .
I was carrying my P51 fuse to the shed to spray a top coat, tripped and threw it across the patio. I looked like a 10 year old with the skin taken off my knees and ripped out a couple of formers from the fuse where I was carrying it.

--
Mark

Originally Posted by Gree

Oh and by the way if Steve is reading this (from RC scale builder, doing button nose), thanks for the kind words and the promotion of this thread. Sorry I can't respond on the other forum, I'm a tight ass and didn't pay to post!...

Hi Gree,

I guess you were paying attention! I'll have to admit, I've mostly been jumping around through the old parts of your build as I steal your techniques. I'm currently trying to finish the tailwheel installation so I can get on with finishing the fuse. I'm more or less copying your setup with the exception of tailwheel control.

Another goal of my build is to be able to fly it some time in 2013... My last build project started in 2001 and I'll finally be flying it next spring. Hopefully, I can shorten the process this time. There's a bit of a struggle between scale detail and getting it flying but I think I'm realizing that a lot of it is just having enough time to work on it. Glad to see you seem to be in the home stretch.

-Steve (from RC Scale Builder)

Originally Posted by Mark Derbyshire

I've done more damage with hanger rash before it's even seen the airstrip than I have with a dodgy landing .
I was carrying my P51 fuse to the shed to spray a top coat, tripped and threw it across the patio. I looked like a 10 year old with the skin taken off my knees and ripped out a couple of formers from the fuse where I was carrying it.

--
Mark

Been there, done that with my P.40. I'm banned from taking models in the house as I usualy take everything off the mantelpiece or cupboards when not looking where I'm going.

Gree, you don't have to take my word for anything...I just like the sound of my own typing.

Jeff

Yeah I'll have to be more careful!

Steve I'm glad you saw my message. I appreciate the references to my thread but couldn't respond on yours. I am following along with interest though!

Jeff, in all seriousness I have appreciated you being a long for the ride - I've love the comments from everyone who posts here. Thousands are looking (a weird thought in itself) but those that take the time to contribute have my thanks.

Hi! I have a solartrim wing,and a solartex fuselagel to paint - what is the best way to approach this - I want to finish them both in olive drab.Thanks, Den

This is a general question about servo installation but as I am now working on a TF P-47 I will post the question here:
In respect to the servo's orientation in the wing for ailerons, how should a servo be attached to the servo cover; with the servo arm away from the aileron OR with the servo arm closest to the aileron. Is the left servo placed correct or the right servo. I guess proper placement has to do with several things i.e. leverage, length and angle of pushrod to do more work etc.

Thanks

Originally Posted by reno4sure

This is a general question about servo installation but as I am now working on a TF P-47 I will post the question here:
In respect to the servo's orientation in the wing for ailerons, how should a servo be attached to the servo cover; with the servo arm away from the aileron OR with the servo arm closest to the aileron. Is the left servo placed correct or the right servo. I guess proper placement has to do with several things i.e. leverage, length and angle of pushrod to do more work etc.

Thanks

You will want to center the servo. This will allow the arm to travel equal distance in the slot. If you place it as you had in the left servo you would only get one direction of travel, and in the other it would be hitting the door thereby stalling the servo and ot allowing movement.

Thanks for the reply. I would think that also. But the mounting blocks are installed on the door and the servo fits between the two blocks in one of two positions. So I am not sure which is the correct placement.

If you are not using digital mixing on your radio, but are using a simple y-harness, then both positions are correct, as one servo will sit with the arm towards the front of the wing and one will sit with the arm towards the rear.

Hook your servos up and try it out. When you move the stick one servo should move forward while the other moves rearward, and to do that you need to place them as you have them in the picture.

Originally Posted by reno4sure

This is a general question about servo installation but as I am now working on a TF P-47 I will post the question here:
In respect to the servo's orientation in the wing for ailerons, how should a servo be attached to the servo cover; with the servo arm away from the aileron OR with the servo arm closest to the aileron. Is the left servo placed correct or the right servo. I guess proper placement has to do with several things i.e. leverage, length and angle of pushrod to do more work etc.

Thanks

I don't know as it makes a huge difference although, generally, you would probably want to use whichever orientation provides for the shortest linkage. You also need to keep in mind that the servo arm needs to be in the center of the provided slot at neutral so that it has room to rotate fore and aft. Since your servo arm extends below the bottom wing skin and will essentially be a straight run to the horn on the aileron there are no angles to be concerned with and thus no leverage issues. (This is a good thing.) In the case of servos they need to be installed mirror imaged in order to work opposite one another and maintain identical geometry.

Originally Posted by Gree

If you are not using digital mixing on your radio, but are using a simple y-harness, then both positions are correct, as one servo will sit with the arm towards the front of the wing and one will sit with the arm towards the rear.

Hook your servos up and try it out. When you move the stick one servo should move forward while the other moves rearward, and to do that you need to place them as you have them in the picture.

I think you're confused here Gree. They need to be mirror images of one another, ie, both output shafts facing inboard or both facing outboard.

For the ailerons they don't 'have' to be mounted mirrored as each one is on it's own channel, but for neatness I mount them mirrored.

The servo on the left will be fine for flaps as they are only going to travel down so no symmetry is required. If the flaps are on one channel you will have to mount them the same orientation. If on separate channels it doesn't matter

--
Mark

Thanks guys for all the banter on the subject. I may not have been quite clear in my question. My question is not how to get them to work correctly with each other when hooked to the "Y" harness or "mixed" on the receiver (but those answers may help someone with doubt as to the correct facing of the servos). My question is; is a shorter connecting rod from the servo to the aileron horn which creates a steeper angle (as Chad stated) be better than a longer connecting rod from the servo to the aileron horn which creates less of an angle, be best. The length of the connecting rod is determined by orientation of the servo (as the picture demonstrates). I know that some "force/power/leverage" is lost as the angle of the connecting rod to the servo and aileron horn changes. I hope this is more clear (as mud).
Thanks again!
Reno

Originally Posted by Mark Derbyshire

For the ailerons they don't 'have' to be mounted mirrored as each one is on it's own channel, but for neatness I mount them mirrored.

Even if each aileron servo is on its own channel I would contend it is best to have them mirrored if only to make it easy to keep the geometry of the linkages as close to identical as possible. Although that is less of a concern with ailerons than it is with flaps and elevators, I understand that. My .02 cents if it's actually worth that much!

Originally Posted by Mark Derbyshire

The servo on the left will be fine for flaps as they are only going to travel down so no symmetry is required. Again if the flaps are on one channel you will have to mount them mirrored. If on seperate channels it doesn't matter--
Mark

If the flaps are one channel then they cannot be mounted mirrored or they will work opposite of one another rather than in unison.

Originally Posted by Chad Veich

If the flaps are one channel then they cannot be mounted mirrored or they will work opposite of one another rather than in unison.

You are correct. My bad. Having a blonde moment

--

Mark