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Old Sep 15, 2012, 09:35 AM
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Hi mates, just to share. A flight of my T.F P-47 . e-conversion and another Jug from KMP gas powered with DLE 30..
P 47 EILEEN AND MAJ. GLEN EAGLESTON SORTIE (8 min 50 sec)

Manolo.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 02:33 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Keighley
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hi there. cool work your doing over there. im looking at getting this kit this week from reading this post. and i have loads of things to sort out. one thing is i would like to run a 4 blade prop. What have your thought been on the prop so far ?
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 06:11 PM
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I'll be using a 4 blade as well. I have already bought them some time ago. They are APC 15.5 x 12 x4. I will be using 6 cell batteries and a Turnigy SK5065 - 380Kv motor (which it seems you can't buy anymore!)

Another couple of weeks and I'll be back on this plane.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 09:04 AM
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Ok cool I need to watch this and see how it comes out. You must be planing on making it look scale . How will you be doing it. This will be my first scale so I don't really know much about it.

Thanks for all the really useful info
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 09:07 AM
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Oh with out going back over this your using air retracts? Are they as lite as electric ones...btw iv just been in my lhs and iv seen a 4 blade prop that now comes with the 1600mm fms p-47 . what do you think to this prop would it work ?

like this http://www.hobby-lobby.com/scale_4_b...18581_prd1.htm
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 01:34 AM
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I have no experience with electric retracts so can't tell you for sure if electric are lighter - my guess is they'd be about the same... I am also not sure about the prop, you'd have to see if the motor was an equivalent size to the one you'd be using in your P47, and you'd have to check amp draw. I'm afraid I am not very good at all that, I just copied someone else's set up really.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 01:48 AM
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Slowly beginning again

Well I should be finishing up my new FPV wing, but I wasn't in the mood this afternoon. So I dusted off the fuse, spot filled a few pin holes, sanded, re-primed, and measured out the rivets on the underside of the tail.

I did a few and called it a day. I need to sure up the soldering iron's grip on my rivet tool before I go much further. Still, it's a start!

Feels good...
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 06:28 AM
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Gree, you have fiberglass and a layer of primer on there, right? And you are burning just into the fiberglass?
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 06:58 AM
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No you don't burn as far as the glass. The layers I have are glass, resin, high fill primer, and normal primer. The rivet gets burned into the primer layers only (apart from one or two where I left the tool on too long and burnt all the primer off the revel the resin. No biggy though!

A quick light touch is all you need.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 07:01 PM
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Gree,
Are you still putting in a Turnigy SK 5065 - 380kv?
Do you remember the wattage and thrust #s on that motor?
I am thinking of this one here? What you think?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...0KV_2000W.html
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 08:23 PM
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Gree,
on your rudder mod, how much wider did you make the rudder than the original? As wide as the end of the fuse?
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 08:24 PM
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One mor if you would. What tools did you use to cut your battery hatch? The cuts were so darn clean.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRealEstateGuy View Post
Gree,
Are you still putting in a Turnigy SK 5065 - 380kv?
Do you remember the wattage and thrust #s on that motor?
I am thinking of this one here? What you think?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...0KV_2000W.html
As I said before I really am not good with electrics. The motor I bought was because someone else had already tried and tested it with the 4 blade I have on a 60 size corsair. But yes I will still be using it when the time comes. Sorry I can't give you any good advice about that motor, I wouldn't want to steer you wrong... Why not search for what others have put into this model and use that as a guide for the stats you look for in a motor?


Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRealEstateGuy View Post
Gree,
on your rudder mod, how much wider did you make the rudder than the original? As wide as the end of the fuse?
The rudder ended up being the same width as the fuse at the end where it mounts. I just used a strip of balsa to give it the flare and then tapered it by sanding.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NCRealEstateGuy View Post
One mor if you would. What tools did you use to cut your battery hatch? The cuts were so darn clean.
I used a scalpel! Nothing special there. Just use a brand new blade.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 04:38 PM
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Gree,
I am coming along on my P47. I am ready to seal my fuse and then WBPA and fiberglass. I will be updating my thread shortly.
I saw where you recessed your intercooler doors into the balsa. Looks real nice that way. I would like to do the same. I have already penciled the area around the doors. But, how did you recess the balsa?
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 05:35 PM
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What ideally wish I did was to build new doors from styrene sheet like I did for the oil cooler doors. The stock ones have rounded edges which are a bit naff.

But basically I left a bit of flashing around the plastic door, traced this into the balsa, and then simply chiseled it out to the same depth as the plastic.

Out of curiosity, What's WBPA?
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