|May 24, 2008, 10:53 PM|
Its really coming along nice!
the cockpit looks great
I've been reading so don't feel it's a waste of time..
I did a thread on my F-16 and felt like no one was checking it out....
then I went to a meet and more than a few guy let me know that they liked my thread.
So I'm sure many are watching just laying low...
it will make you feel btter to watch how many page views you have..
your thread is only 16 days old with 550 views ...
|May 24, 2008, 11:32 PM|
I'm reading and soaking it all in for my build. Learning a lot of excellent techniques (windex and pinning to help form the sheeting). I may not comment a lot, but i'm definately reading and taking notes. Nice detailed commentaries and pics...Thanks Gree, keep it up!
|May 25, 2008, 01:21 PM|
Things are looking great. I am a giant fan of the razorback - but it's great to see someone building a bubble top.
If you have any specific questions - just holler.
|Jun 10, 2008, 08:53 PM|
What Do People Think Of This Motor Esc Combo?
I am still having difficulty wrapping my head around all of the terminology for electric motors etc.
Was just browsing on ebay and found this - what do people think? would it be sufficient for the P47? I would run it on 6 to 8 cells I think.
It doesn't have a BEC, but maybe that is not a bad thing - I could add a UBEC because i will be running a lot of servos anyway.
Any thoughts welcome on this motor!
|Jun 10, 2008, 09:10 PM|
Well - I'm the wrong guy to ask, as I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for - to an extent. I'd stick with something that's tried and true (AXI, Hyperion, etc.) - Hacker, well... I had to go through quite a lot before they'd stand behind the incinerator they called a motor / esc. If you go with a motor / esc / battery combo that has been tried and proven in a plane of this size, you have one less thing to worry about. If I had done that the first time with my P-47, I'd most likely still have crashed it by now, but at least it wouldn't have caught on fire - twice. Granted, I used a 'known' brand - but not a set up which had been proven. (FWIW - Hacker B50xl-11 on 8s = fire, now we know!)
The pragmatic side of me says that at $99.00 - it can't hurt to try it out, but then the part of me who has rebuild his P-47 TWICE due to bad motors says - go with what you know. If the magnets are weak and can't handle the heat, the motor will 'de-mag', turn into a dead short, -- smoke the ESC, and a fire will be the result. I proved this - twice.
It can't hurt to check with the guys over in the 'motor / power systems' thread to get their opinion regarding that motor/ESC (brand).
For a different opinion - There is another user on this board who built a beautiful Spitfire and did an e-conversion (TommyFlight89? or something like that) - check with him and see what he used.
Plane looks great so far!
|Jun 11, 2008, 05:53 PM|
United States, GA, Newnan
Joined Mar 2008
LightFlightRC:http://www.lightflightrc.com/ Has an SP-70A for $30.00 and an SP-100A for $40.00. Great ESC's, use them all the time and none have failed. Plus they have a big heat sink to dissapate heat.
Hobbycitys Turnigy 50-65C is a good motor for this plane, 1200watts of power and at a $45.00 range. I also have used this motor with good results.
For your servos I would suggest a UBEC as you posted or a seperate RX battery.
|Jun 11, 2008, 06:54 PM|
Thanks Ted and Corsair. Well spotted about the 20V limit on the ESC - best not to risk it. Thanks also Corsair for the advice on the alternative motors and ESCs - I'll look into them - the price sounds right!
|Jun 14, 2008, 10:17 PM|
FABRICATING THE TAILWHEEL MOUNT
I have a robart retractable tailwheel for this plane which I plan on actuating with an air cylinder. Given the layout of the formers in the rear of the fuse, I thought it would make sense to attach the tailwheel to former 8, so that it retracts between 8 and 9.
To make sure it would be a solid mount, I used the ply from the sheet where former 8 was die cut, to get an exact fit, then cut recess holes for the lugs on the tailwheel mount to fit into to take the vertical load off of the mounting bolts on landings, and disperse it through the frame structure. This was strengthened by adding another strip of ply to the back of the former, that extended down to overlap where the top former meets the bottom one in order to try to reduce any issues from any horizontal forces.
Slots were cut to allow for the control linkages for the tailwheel steering to swivel through the entire arc of the retract movement.
I am also fabricating an air cylinder mount that will attach to former 7, still have to drill lightening holes.
Now comes the WHOOPS moment....
When I placed everything where it should be, only then did I realise that the tailwheel would be in completely the wrong place for a scale location! It will be too far forward! and too far forward by a good inch to an inch and a half...
My camera died (battery finally given out I think) before I could photograph the positioning in the fuse when I mocked it up into place... I'll post these as soon as I get the camera working again!
The problem as I see it is that in order to move the tailwheel back to a more scale location, I will have to entirely redesign the way the bottom rear of the fuse is constructed. In the instructions it calls for installing a solid balsa block and carving it to shape... I'd have to string the area and sheet I think to allow for clearance.
If I leave the wheel where it is it will interfere with the location of the rearmost of the air outlets on the bottom of the fuse!
Bugger - thought my solution was clever for a while!!!! Has anyone else used this robart retractable tailwheel in this model? How did you get it into the right position?
Any help most welcome!
|Jul 04, 2008, 03:04 AM|
RE-DESIGN OF THE TAILWHEEL
Well, I got a new camera battery, and worked out a re-design of the tailwheel mount in a more favourable position. This new mount puts the wheel right where the non-retractable version is on the kit, and should I hope be good enough scale wise. I mounted the air cylinder as far forward as i could so as to be able to get to it in case something goes wrong, and to also help weight balance. The mechanism seems to work smoothly .
I am integrating the tail wheel mount into the structure and stingers so I hope it will be strong enough. I placed small triangular braces on the base of the mount to ensure rigidity.
Not much else at this point. Now I have to work out the elevator linkage and the tail wheel steering...
ImagesView all Images in thread
|Jul 04, 2008, 07:53 PM|
Joined Aug 2005
Love the build. Please keep the tips and pictures coming.
They will be very useful when my P-47 gets here. Should be anytime soon. Let us know how the tailwheel works out. I like your idea.
I've several wings to repair for son-in-law first then I have to finish a SIG Hog Bibe that I have been putting off for a year. Good thing is it's all done except the wings.
Then I will be tackling the P-47. I might try both builds at one time. If I get frustrated with one I can move on to the other til I cool off. lol
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