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Old May 08, 2008, 11:10 PM
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The two Top Flite kits that I have, can be built either bubble or razorback, with the Eagleston scheme, and includes the decal set for it. Nice build Gree, looking forward to following your progress.

Mark
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Old May 08, 2008, 11:14 PM
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Gree,
Read your first post, saw that you had wanted to do a TF F190D as your first build choice. I know this is late and you've already started on the P-47, but here is a site that offers the aircraft you're looking for (not a TF).

http://www.fliteskin.com/index.html

Mark
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Old May 09, 2008, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricClark
Cool. Good luck with it. I'll be watching!

Eric
Thanks Eric. I did not want to high jack your other thread so decided to kick this one off here.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MrN79
Gree,
Read your first post, saw that you had wanted to do a TF F190D as your first build choice. I know this is late and you've already started on the P-47, but here is a site that offers the aircraft you're looking for (not a TF).

http://www.fliteskin.com/index.html

Mark
Thanks Mark, but I remember seeing this plane in some other forum, and the owner talking about the price tag being in the thousands! I had previously found this webpage, but then I noticed it has 'call for price' written there and that can never be a good indication... plus there would be shipping to Australia. Oh well maybe someone else will release a good scale and reasonably priced 190D in the future. Have already spent a fair bit on this one - I have everything bought except for the power package and motor now, so no turning back!

Looks like an amazing plane though!


If anyone in Australia is reading this and has a Top Flite FW190D sitting around in the box collecting dust though... you know who to contact!
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Old May 09, 2008, 02:00 AM
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Rudder And Hinging

MORE RUDDER AND COMPLETING VERTICAL STABILISER HINGING

I am rapidly getting up to my current point in the build here, as my pile of photos from the last 2 months in getting low.

Thought I would post how I did the hinging in more detail here. I know when I was looking at a lot of threads, many people glossed over this part and it was the part I wanted to know the most about!

I don't know if I have done it the best way possible, but I am making it up as I go long and it works more or less so I'll have to be satisfied with that.

Basically I used the same technique to cut the curve on the top of the rudder as with the elevators. To get the nice curve I actually used one of the curved blocks of balsa in the kit for a wingtip as a template! Worked great.

The curve on the rudder was bit trickier though because it starts right after the top hinge point, meaning the curve needed a bit of filler wood to bring it down correctly under the solid top balsa block, you can see this tiny wedge I cut in the first photo...

Another oh no moment!
There was a lot of test fitting of the rudder during this process, and i was doing this when all of a sudden there was a load popping sound and my thumb went right through the stab skin!

After some profuse and colourful swearing, I quickly trimmed the hole, glued in some ledges and replaced the missing piece from some scrap balsa. Filled it and sanded. Looks ugly with no paint but when it is glassed you'll never know. Still really ticked me off though!

I spent a long time trying to work out the best way to do the hinges here, and in the end the photos show what I came up with. Probably not the best way to do it but what is done is done!

The rudder will also eventually get some thin ply covering the gap between the rudder and the stab, but I'll do that later.
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Old May 13, 2008, 01:37 AM
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Gree,
Nice detailed photos. For those of us who are going to build this kit, those photos and instructions are golden. Keep em coming and keep up the excellent work.

Mark
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Old May 13, 2008, 02:16 AM
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Thanks Mark - I really appreciate that comment, makes it worthwhile to know I can help others. I learned a lot from other build threads to but will be doing a few things myself as i go along.

thought i may give something back to the forums if i could. More progress soon I hope.
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Old May 13, 2008, 10:55 AM
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Looking great Simon. You are really putting together a nice informative build thread that will be fun to watch. Keep her rolling...
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Old May 13, 2008, 09:40 PM
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Hey for a minute there I was really confused about how you knew my name before I recognised your username!

Nice to see you here John!
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Old May 21, 2008, 05:38 AM
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Starting on the Fuselage

MOVING ON TO THE TOP FUSELAGE
Nothing really adventurous in this part of the build, as I am sticking to specifications on the top part of the fuse. I will have to decide pretty quick though what I am going to do about batteries - ie which type - lipo vs A123 and how many cells etc. I am pretty sure I will be building a hatch on the top part of the fuse but am hesitant to do this without having my chosen batteries in hand.

So if you have advice about combinations please let me have them - I have gotten a few pieces of advice about motor/battery combos, but would still love to hear more. I want good long flight times and decent power - but not overwhelming by any means.

Shots below detail my construction of the top fuse, and mating the tail to the structure.


SHEETING
One tip which I read somewhere about sheeting that I found to work perfectly, was to spray the balsa with windex, let it soak in for a minute or two, then pin the sheeting to the fuse overnight. Once it dried it was perfectly shaped to the fuse, and then you could unpin it and glue it really easily!

Another tip is to make sure you keep the structure firmly pinned to the board during this entire process. I did not do this when I pinned the first piece of sheeting onto the frame after spraying with windex, and as it dried it actually warped the frame a good 10mm above the board in the centre!

I was pretty surprised, so needless to say before any glueing took place it was nailed down good and proper.


JOINING THE TAIL
This went pretty smoothly too. after measuring a million times, it was found the saddle for the tail was perfectly shaped, so no need for any angling etc to get it level. I used the string from the pin in the front of the fuse technique to get the tail square. Let's hope it worked! It looks good to me though!

I was pretty happy with how the sheeting all joined together on the tail surfaces.... I used tracing paper to trace the contour of the cross-section of the horizontal stab onto the excess sheet on the vertical stab, then trimmed to shape. It ended up being a good fit.



All in all not much that is too exciting, but it IS progress!
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Old May 24, 2008, 09:35 PM
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Finishing the top Fuselage - Part 1

Not much interest here so far, fair enough . But I will keep posting anyway...


REINFORCING GLUE JOINTS
I turned over the fuse and set to work reinforcing all of the glue joints inside with white wood glue - which worked so well with the tail skins. This glue stays a little flexible so should absorb any vibrations. It also dries clear and shrinks a lot during drying, so hopefully it helps pull things together tightly.


FINISHING THE TAIL FILLETS
I was really apprehensive about doing the tail fillets because I have never really tried to do anything like that before, and if it was done badly it would really show up.

I was pleasantly surprised to find the process much easier than I has thought, and was pretty happy with how the filets turned out.

Firstly I had to join the bottom of the tail to the fuse with fillets of epoxy as outlined in the manual. I tried doing the inside area first where it would not show - and man I made a mess!

But a carefully tried to apply the epoxy bead the the outside area where the tail meets the fuse very slowly and evenly, then (on a whim) I wet my finger with Windex, and ran it along the bead - this worked great! The alcohol in the windex smoothed the bead really well, and after wiping my finger along the join I had a lot of excess epoxy out of the join on my finger which wiped clean easily again because of the alcohol. I really recommend this trick!

After that I used masking tape to mask the area where the fillet would be on the top tail surface, and applied the balsa filler - thickly at first then using water on my finger used the same 'squeegee' method to smooth the curve. It did not give me as smooth as a result as the windex with the epoxy, but it still worked well!

Then I removed the tape and let the filler dry. To sand - I used some really worn 400 wet and dry paper wrapped around a scalpel handle - which turned out to be the perfect radius! I just carefully and lightly sanded until smooth. This was very fast because my finger left a good curve in the first place. I am happy!

Just some final sanding left to do to really smooth things out.
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Old May 24, 2008, 09:47 PM
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Yeah!! I'm interested. Keep up the good work, I like to see all your posts and pics of the progress. I feel the same way though a lot when I post about my projects cause a lot of people look at it (I can see the views or the thread and the pics) and may be interested or even love it but they don't post a comment. A simple, "nice job" might not seem like much but it means a lot when it IS posted about your project. Some people are really good at that (I try) but a lot are content to merely browse and not contribute. A "This sucks!" post isn't enjoyable to read but at least you get some feedback about your project and if you recieve this kind of post you might consider making your project better or something. Anyway....... I am very interested to see how this turns out. It looks like you are doing an exceptional job of building, and I was wondering if you know what you are going to do for a color scheme. Do you have any ideas?

Eric
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Old May 24, 2008, 09:56 PM
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Finishing the top Fuselage - Part 2

SANDING, SHAPING AND INITIAL FIT OF THE BUBBLE

After finishing the blending in of the tail, I got to work sanding the top of the fuse. I had previously used filler on all the joins, but I had to touch up here and there before final sanding.

I also got the bubble out of its packet and trimmed it up ready to fit. I want to do an opening canopy, so will work on these details a bit later (I had visions of a servo operating sliding canopy but will have to see how I go. If anyone has ideas or photos showing how they did this I would be very grateful to hear from you!).

I was a bit disappointed to see that one side of the bubble has a lot of small imperfections in it - like the mould had grit on it before they vacuum formed it. The photo below does not really show this clearly but you may get the idea. Oh well - I had to wait a long time for this canopy to come from the US, and I feel like pressing on (who knows I may even wreck this one when working out the sliding mechanism)...

I trimmed the edges of the cockpit area on the fuse, and then sat the canopy on to see the 'lay of the land'. Always exciting to see things changing shape...




PS. By the way, in the Top Flite canopy package, it comes with all of the stickers I need to do my chosen paint scheme, including small words and info that goes around the fuse here and there. It says in the canopy instructions that a 3 view drawing is provided in the package showing where all of these go, but mine did not have any 3 views!

Can anyone confirm for me that the drawings were supposed to be in there? I might have to contact Top Flite to see if they can email them to me. Thanks.
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Old May 24, 2008, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricClark
Yeah!! I'm interested. Keep up the good work, I like to see all your posts and pics of the progress. I feel the same way though a lot when I post about my projects cause a lot of people look at it (I can see the views or the thread and the pics) and may be interested or even love it but they don't post a comment. A simple, "nice job" might not seem like much but it means a lot when it IS posted about your project. Some people are really good at that (I try) but a lot are content to merely browse and not contribute. A "This sucks!" post isn't enjoyable to read but at least you get some feedback about your project and if you recieve this kind of post you might consider making your project better or something. Anyway....... I am very interested to see how this turns out. It looks like you are doing an exceptional job of building, and I was wondering if you know what you are going to do for a color scheme. Do you have any ideas?

Eric

Thanks Eric - it is great to know that I am not speaking to an empty room. I really appreciate your comments, and knowing your are out there!

In terms of a colour scheme - I detailed this on page 1.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...94&postcount=4

It is not the most original I know, but I love the bare metal look when it catches the sun just right and you get that reflection in flight. I am even toying with the idea of a Flightmetal finish... but a long way to go until that point!
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Old May 24, 2008, 10:28 PM
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Time for a Diversion

BEGINNING THE COCKPIT DETAIL
Well I am at a point now where I have to do some creative thinking... I am fitting an air operated retractable tailwheel, and I am still mulling over the servo operated sliding canopy.

So I don't rush things, and to change the scenery a bit, I thought I would have a crack at the cockpit detailing.

I bought the Top Flite cockpit kit, but was pretty disappointed at the level of detail . Am also disappointed that the Top Flite cockpit kit only has rear armour plating for the razor back version, and NOT the bubble. Looks like some scratch building in my future.

So After a lot of research and going 'to and fro' on whether to be bothered or not, bothered won out and I decided to try to add more realism if I could...

I am not sure how far I will go, but it was fun to at least make a start.

Pretty simple so far - am using the Top Flite stickers for the gauges (has anyone noticed how the air speed indicator shows a speed of over 200 miles per hour? Weird decision when you consider that the only time people will see the instrument panel is when the plane is on the ground!)

I then cut some gauge faces from thin clear plastic I had from some packaging, and used wood glue to fix them in place. This is a good choice because it dries clear, and does not have any nasty fumes like CA which get caught behind the plastic and make it turn white (ask me how I know!).

I also used drops of wood glue positioned with the end of a pin to simulate screws etc on the panel.

For toggle switches, I am using some thin wire poked through the panel and glued in place from behind. There are a LOT of toggle switches in the cockpit so that will a fun job!

For the red buttons you see, I stripped some red insulation off a thin electrical wire, and sliced it up and glued it on. I filled the holes in the centre with glue, but it dries clear so they still look hollow until I put some red paint on them. - and that's as far as I got. Very fiddly work!

A lot more gauges and toggle and buttons and wires and tubing and control connecting rods etc etc to do!

It's a start and I will post more as I go along. Might turn out looking a bit dodgy, but at least will be better than the standard 'kit'.

Man I REALLY hope I don't fly this thing straight into the ground!





...OK better do some PhD work now and stop procrastinating! But its Sunday! Awwww nuts...
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Old May 24, 2008, 11:37 PM
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Whoops, my bad. (color scheme question) I had a feeling that you might have had it on the first page but I was in a hurry so I quickly typed out the post and went back to my plane that I was working on. I'll look next time.

Its looking sweet. I know nothing about the kit so I can't help you (although as I mentioned before in another thread I want to get one sometime) but I wish the best, too bad about the canopy though. I'm picky about little things like that too.

The cockpit looks great, and your white "text" looks very good. I would find that totally acceptable. (Unless you are going for a insanely perfect scale static score in competition and even then you might be good.) Who looks at every detail on a instrument panel with a magnifying glass anyway?

Eric
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