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Old Feb 16, 2013, 07:32 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormz View Post
yea I have learn to use epoxy on the joiner for the elevator, even thick ca cures to fast to get everything position right. 5 min epoxy works for me
Slo Zap.....

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Old Feb 16, 2013, 09:23 PM
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United States, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Jun 2008
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Thanks for the feedback on the covering... I'm ok with it. Hopefully it's no worse outside in the sunlight. It's just one of those things that bother you when you take it out of the box.

Oddly enough the white is more opaque than the orange.

Does thin CA thicken after several months. I bouth some thin Zap last year and half is left, but it seems to be thicker than I remmember. I'm concerned about gluing my hinges with it. If it's too thick it could be problematic to correct.

5 min. epoxy for the elevator joiner? I suppose I would have to use it sparingly since it's likely fairly thick. Did you guys cut away any covering on the joiner for a better bond?

Done for the night, but I think I finally got that horizontal stab aligned pretty darn good on all axis.

I haven't flown it yet and it's already my favorite plane to look at!
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 10:05 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
28,166 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by richord View Post
Thanks for the feedback on the covering... I'm ok with it. Hopefully it's no worse outside in the sunlight. It's just one of those things that bother you when you take it out of the box.

Oddly enough the white is more opaque than the orange.

Does thin CA thicken after several months. I bouth some thin Zap last year and half is left, but it seems to be thicker than I remmember. I'm concerned about gluing my hinges with it. If it's too thick it could be problematic to correct.

5 min. epoxy for the elevator joiner? I suppose I would have to use it sparingly since it's likely fairly thick. Did you guys cut away any covering on the joiner for a better bond?

Done for the night, but I think I finally got that horizontal stab aligned pretty darn good on all axis.

I haven't flown it yet and it's already my favorite plane to look at!
No, it doesn't look worse in sunlight, Yes, CA does get thicker, and when it does, toss it. You can put the lid on the CA and store it in the refrigerator to make it last longer. Use the Slo zap and don't remove the covering.

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Old Feb 16, 2013, 11:17 PM
3d NOOBular
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If you use epoxy just wipe off the excess. Not a big deal. Don't remove any covering. Not needed.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:50 PM
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United States, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Jun 2008
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Build update...

Well, the woodgrain showing through the Orange covering doesn't show up well in a picture so no need to post...

Got a crap ton of wrinkles on the fuse after gluing outside in cool weather.

All control surfaces are on. And I will be starting the installation of electronics tomorrow morning, along with the servo arm linkages.

Since my thin CA was no longer thin and I could not get to a hobby shop - I did find Loctite Ultra Liquid Contol "Thin and Fast" 15 sec. Super Glue. It worked like a charm on the hinges. I bought Gorilla Glue Super Glue Thick Formula to try as well. This stuff has a strong odor (typical CA smell but it seemed strong to me). Probably because it's thick and doesn't cure right away when you use it in bulk. It provides 60 sec. work time so I tried that on the elevator joiner.

I must have put too much in the elevator joiner. When I went to cut the slot out for the elevator horn - there was some wet glue in there. I decided to use the other side of the fuse for the servo and horn for the elevator control. I don't think it will make a difference.

I put a thick bead of the CA around the motor box to firewall and 2 hours later it was still tacky. Probably because it was cool out.

As I intall the fasteners for the control arm linkages, the manual mentions loctite or CA to permanently secure the nuts on the fasteners for the servo linkages. Any recommendations?
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 12:39 AM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
28,166 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by richord View Post
Build update...

Well, the woodgrain showing through the Orange covering doesn't show up well in a picture so no need to post...

Got a crap ton of wrinkles on the fuse after gluing outside in cool weather.

All control surfaces are on. And I will be starting the installation of electronics tomorrow morning, along with the servo arm linkages.

Since my thin CA was no longer thin and I could not get to a hobby shop - I did find Loctite Ultra Liquid Contol "Thin and Fast" 15 sec. Super Glue. It worked like a charm on the hinges. I bought Gorilla Glue Super Glue Thick Formula to try as well. This stuff has a strong odor (typical CA smell but it seemed strong to me). Probably because it's thick and doesn't cure right away when you use it in bulk. It provides 60 sec. work time so I tried that on the elevator joiner.

I must have put too much in the elevator joiner. When I went to cut the slot out for the elevator horn - there was some wet glue in there. I decided to use the other side of the fuse for the servo and horn for the elevator control. I don't think it will make a difference.

I put a thick bead of the CA around the motor box to firewall and 2 hours later it was still tacky. Probably because it was cool out.

As I intall the fasteners for the control arm linkages, the manual mentions loctite or CA to permanently secure the nuts on the fasteners for the servo linkages. Any recommendations?
Ultracote changes due to heat and humidity, an iron or heat gun will take care of that...

I use CA, but you must be very careful when gluing the nuts on the "EZ" connectors, as you can very easily glue them to the servo arms. If you use Loktite, unless using aluminum arms, you must be careful not to get the Loktite on the plastic arms as Loktite makes plastic brittle...

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Old Feb 18, 2013, 08:48 AM
doh!
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United States, AR, Little Rock
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richord View Post
Build update...

Well, the woodgrain showing through the Orange covering doesn't show up well in a picture so no need to post...
My 71 slick has woodgrain showing through, my 70" Velox has the same on the yellow, as does my ExtremeFlight 64" MXS. I think as someone mentioned the covering formula must have changed a year or two ago and it got more transparent. No big deal, from 10 feet away you can't tell anyways. Doesn't bother me at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by richord View Post
As I intall the fasteners for the control arm linkages, the manual mentions loctite or CA to permanently secure the nuts on the fasteners for the servo linkages. Any recommendations?
Yes - glue them. What I do is to take a small drop of medium CA and put it on the threads of the nut that goes on the ez-link connector. Then flip it over so that the side I applied glue from is to the outside, that way any residual glue on the face of the nut won't glue it to the control horn, and then thread it on. It usually takes a couple pair of pliers as the glue is setting before I get the final turn or two on it. Done it this way for about 30 builds now, and haven't had any of them come loose yet.
Use regular blue loctite on the set screw for the pushrod. And motor bolts, and everywhere else that you have a metal to metal bolt. Landing gear, prop adapter, landing gear wheel collar set screw, etc.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:06 AM
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USA, UT, St George
Joined Aug 2010
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I just put ca on the nut after it is on and hit it with kicker. That has been perfect for me in terms of never having one come loose as well as being fairly easy to take back apart if needed. Really splitting hairs here though since the nuts barely even cover their own thickness on the bolts...
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:41 AM
Gone Huckin'
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Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by brathanke View Post
I just put ca on the nut after it is on and hit it with kicker. That has been perfect for me in terms of never having one come loose as well as being fairly easy to take back apart if needed. Really splitting hairs here though since the nuts barely even cover their own thickness on the bolts...
This is what I do too. I think Ryan's method is probably more sound but like you I've never had one back out this way and it makes them much easier to remove if necessary.

But no matter the method that you use... it's probably a good idea to check them periodically to ensure that they are still properly secured.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 10:19 AM
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United States, FL, Jacksonville
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A drop of Med. CA on top of the nut seems the most simple and seems to have worked. I'll go this route.

There is a pic. in the manual showing the rudder servo horn with CA not only on top of the nut, but the nut CA'd to the horn as well. Is this typical or just use med. CA on top of the nut here as well.

I always struggle setting up the pull-pull systems. Just how loose should the hardware pivot on the servo arm. I'm refering to the nut that attaches the threads to the servo horn itself. I know... Just enough, but do your error on the side of a little looser or snug?
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 11:01 AM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richord View Post
A drop of Med. CA on top of the nut seems the most simple and seems to have worked. I'll go this route.

There is a pic. in the manual showing the rudder servo horn with CA not only on top of the nut, but the nut CA'd to the horn as well. Is this typical or just use med. CA on top of the nut here as well.

I always struggle setting up the pull-pull systems. Just how loose should the hardware pivot on the servo arm. I'm refering to the nut that attaches the threads to the servo horn itself. I know... Just enough, but do your error on the side of a little looser or snug?
Yes - you can CA the nut to the actual horn too. Just make sure it doesn't come through to the other side. You want the nut side locked down but you want the connector to be able to swivel freely.

On the pull/pull setup - yes, at first they can be a little tough to deal with but after doing a few you get pretty comfortable with them. You want the connector to be able to swivel very freely. You really don't want any binding there at all. If it's binding then you may find that your rudder surface won't center very well. Get it so that it truly swivel freely and easily with your fingers. I usually tighten down the nut to hand tight and then start twisting the connector until it starts to freely swivel in the servo arm. Then I glue the nut down.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 12:24 PM
doh!
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United States, AR, Little Rock
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brathanke View Post
I just put ca on the nut after it is on and hit it with kicker. That has been perfect for me in terms of never having one come loose as well as being fairly easy to take back apart if needed. Really splitting hairs here though since the nuts barely even cover their own thickness on the bolts...
I used to do it this way, but I did have one come off that way. So I started doing it on the threads. Never comes loose now, and still easily removable if need be.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 01:50 PM
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United States, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Jun 2008
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The picture showing the 2 large cutouts in the bottom of the fuse for air flow looks a little deceiving.

If looking down from the top with the canopy off, is it the section just behind the canopy opening?
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 02:53 PM
3d NOOBular
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USA, UT, St George
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richord View Post
The picture showing the 2 large cutouts in the bottom of the fuse for air flow looks a little deceiving.

If looking down from the top with the canopy off, is it the section just behind the canopy opening?
Doesn't really matter. Pick the ones that look good to you.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 06:28 PM
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United States, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Jun 2008
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How in the heck do you remove the wood tabs that hold the string in the aileron holes with out breaking your mounting points.

I just went to push/pull, twist, etc. to try and remove one and it cracked the damn servo mount!

I removed the covering on the other wing and it's the same way - CA'd in there pretty good. I don't know why they just didn't glue the string to the wood instead of blocking the mounting hole?
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