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Old Sep 28, 2012, 09:27 PM
inverted-i-fly
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United States, CA, Petaluma
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Originally Posted by 3Daddict View Post
I will have to check this, how do I find out if it was the battery?

thank you,

3Daddict
usually one cell will have a much higher IR, but it is strange that it happen after being at idle
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 10:00 PM
Addicted to 3DHS.
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ohio
Joined Oct 2010
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Originally Posted by Inverted-I-Fly View Post
usually one cell will have a much higher IR, but it is strange that it happen after being at idle
That is why I am thinking it might be my speed control. If it is my speed control I will have to hang this plane up for a while as I do not have any cash left after buying the parts for a 57'' extra. This plane is tough as nails though, other than the LG and prop there is not even a scratch on this plane and it fell from about 12 feet.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 10:29 PM
doh!
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United States, AR, Little Rock
Joined May 2006
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Originally Posted by 3Daddict View Post
I was flying my slick today and was doing a flat spin. I went to about tree top level like I always do and went to give it power and I had none. I have the hacker X70 pro, thankfully all I broke was the LG and my prop. Anyone have any ides as to why my speed control would not start my motor. It seems to be working now. I am clueless and at this point am thinking I might have to buy a new speed control that I do not have the money to spend on right now.
I had that happen a few times on my 1st 51. Kept yanking motor bullets apart during knife edge spins. Double check the motor lead bullets... I directly solder most of them now, and if not I at least make sure I re-do the factory bullets on both ends and then tape the bullets together with high quality electrical tape. Never had any problems since doing these methods.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:15 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
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Joined Jan 2008
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Originally Posted by ryan_m View Post
I had that happen a few times on my 1st 51. Kept yanking motor bullets apart during knife edge spins. Double check the motor lead bullets... I directly solder most of them now, and if not I at least make sure I re-do the factory bullets on both ends and then tape the bullets together with high quality electrical tape. Never had any problems since doing these methods.
I prefer heat shrink over the bullets..no nasty gunk to remove after a while....

SteveT
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:52 PM
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United States, CA, Hughson
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I have found that I have the same problem with my hacker pro 70!! Same exact scenerio happened exept for I backed off the power and then hit it again and the prop spun the correct direction. Every since that happend I always make sure I am running a slight throttle when doing a flat spin! I cant stand how it does that!
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 12:01 AM
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Also I have been told that this is typical with the ESC. If you are completly shut down and just barley throttle up sometimes it will spin in reverse and the only way to get the prop to spin the correct way is Power Down and then power up again. (Sorry I should have been more specific on the last post with what happens to mine all the time.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 01:32 AM
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
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Originally Posted by 3Dplank View Post
Use the ones that came with the plane hardware bag.
Excellent, thanks for that
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 01:53 AM
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United States, AZ, Tucson
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Is anyone looking for a V1 motorbox? I bought one brand new off a member here on rcg thinking it was V2. Sure enough it isn't, and I need to get a V2 (or would like to.)

Anyways, if you want it toss me an offer, its in New condition.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hertzrepkeith View Post
I have found that I have the same problem with my hacker pro 70!!
Yep, I had to deadstick land a few times when I was using a similar ESC. Trying to power up from a situation where the prop has stopped, the prop just 'judders' back and forth and the motor cant power up. It's caused by the ESC not being able to read where the rotor is when it's not spinning . It's a inherent weakness of all sensoreless ESC's but most work around it very effectively, a few like the Hacker seem to struggle sometimes.

What some do is program an idle so that the prop can never stop. They seem happy with that work-around but they might still have issues starting the motor at the beginning of a flight. Personally I went to a ZTW ESC.


It doesn't sounds like a failing battery to me. That would usually show up by LVC activating when you went to WOT, not by the motor refusing to start up from a dead stop situation.

Here's a video of what the ESC start up problem looks like:
Brushless motor stutter ESC (0 min 9 sec)
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 05:54 AM
Don't worry be happy :)
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
What some do is program an idle so that the prop can never stop. They seem happy with that work-around but they might still have issues starting the motor at the beginning of a flight...
This do not only solve the startup issue, but also give a lot faster throttle response from idle to full, at least on the HobbyWing ESC:s that I use. It are making some maneuvers a lot easier and is very handy when the need to bail out arises.
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Last edited by Stark; Sep 29, 2012 at 06:03 AM.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 09:04 AM
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Do u mean put a small amount of throttle curve on?
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 09:16 AM
Don't worry be happy :)
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Yes. I use the throttle curve function on my Futaba 6J and create a curve with idle at about 8-10 procent, just enough to turn the prop around in a steady pace. I then switch to this curve when I'm ready for take off and after landing and taxiing, flip the switch to stop the prop.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 09:16 AM
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United States, CO, Fort Collins
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I do this, and found the plane also handles downlines better, with a more consistent speed. It acts like slight braking, pretty cool.

You can do it a couple ways: program a throttle cut to a switch. Plug in batteries with the throttle cut activated, let the ESC arm. When you enable the throttle, you'll get an idle automatically with the Hacker esc's. Don't know about others.

You can also just arm with the throttle trim all the way down to zero. Then bump up the trim until you get an idle.

I personally like the throttle cut switch because it prevents "oops" moments on the ground.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Stark View Post
This do not only solve the startup issue, but also give a lot faster throttle response from idle to full, at least on the HobbyWing ESC:s that I use. It are making some maneuvers a lot easier and is very handy when the need to bail out arises.
That's true, even the best ESC's have to start from dead stop by applying low power until the ESC can sense the position of the rotor, and only then go to full power. This means spool up takes a few moments.

Some RC cars get around it by using ESC's that use sensors in the motor to determine rotor position, so they can go straight to full torque from dead stop. I'm not sure you would want that sort of acceleration in planes, it might tare the motor box out.

What puts me off programming an idle is the risk that I might forget to 'kill' the motor if I ended up nosing over on landing and so I might burn the motor.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 09:52 AM
Don't worry be happy :)
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Yes, therefore I don't dare to use it on my foamie.
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