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Old Apr 23, 2008, 12:50 AM
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More Motors, More Fun... :-)
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Aquacraft Mini Alligator Tours Airboat and HobbyKing Swamp Dawg

Aquacraft Mini Alligator Tours Brushless Motor Conversion




Link to the Air boat on Tower website

The motor is a Power Up 400 Zoom from Heads Up RC. Nice thing about this motor is that it is inexpensive and it fits inside the stock motor mount. This makes the conversion so easy! All I had to do to the stock mount was "turn it around" and drill out two holes to match the motor mount holes. EASY! I used all the stock hardware except that which came with the motor (prop adapter, etc.), and some hex head screws for the motor mount.

The ESC is a large 40 Amp Turnigy Plush that I had lying around. I attached it to the side motor mount rail to make more room in the "battery compartment". The ESC ends are sealed to prevent water form entering the ESC.

The receiver is an OrangeRx R610 from Hobbyking.

2S gives a nice "beginners" speed, and 3S is very fast. The motor is capable of handling both. I bought a EMP 5x5 prop with the motor, I want to compare it to a APC should the prop I have now fail. APC has a 5x5 (LP05050E) I would like to try. They also have a APC 5.25x4.75 Electric Propeller. A 5.5 will fit, but I don't think APC has a tractor 5.5.

I programmed my transmitter ( I use an aircraft transmitter) so that both the rudder and aileron sticks turn the boat.

Power Figures:
Power Up 400 Zoom, EMP 5x5 prop, Plush 40A ESC

2S 1300mAh Lipo:
Initial Battery Voltage: 8.36v
Volts: 7.86v
Amps: 9.74A
Watts: 76.9W

3S 1300 mAh Lipo:
Initial Battery Voltage: 12.52v
Volts: 11.37V
Amps: 17.76A
Watts: 204.0W (WOW!!) She rips. Stays cool too, the ESC is not even warm, the motor does get a bit warm though, still within specs.

Update November 2014: Finally broke a prop, so I tried the APC 5.25x4.74 prop

2S 1300mAh Lipo:
Initial Battery Voltage: 8.34v
Volts: 7.93v
Amps: 11.03A
Watts: 88.0W

3S 1300 mAh Lipo:
Initial Battery Voltage: 12.58v
Volts: 11.40V
Amps: 19.40A
Watts: 223.2W

HobbyKing Swamp Dawg Airboat

Link to the Air boat on HobbyKing website

First thing, throw out the stock plastic servo mount/compartment divider. I don't know what the hell the designer was thinking. I also moved the servo to a location that would give excellent compartment room for the battery.

The stock motor is not very powerful. The stock prop hub is slightly out of balance. The motor mount also started to wobble soon after the boats first run. The screws on the mount are tight, but the socket mount is just a bad way to mount a motor. I have a Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv Outrunner Motor that I am replacing the stock motor with. The motor mount that comes with the motor will fit the stock motor mount arms (see image below). This will work well as long as you don't "slap" the boat around too much. If you do have to go nuts, I would fabricate a mount that will support the motor from all four mounting points.

The ESC ends are sealed to prevent water from entering the ESC.

The receiver is an OrangeRx R610 from Hobbyking.

The transmitter has been programmed so that both the rudder and aileron sticks turn the boat.

Image 8 you can see a water boot that was added to fix a very poor design flaw. How was the push-rod supposed to move smoothly through a fitted hole?

The seal around the outer edge of the boat hull came off almost immediately. The plastic is a hard one to adhere anything to. Fortunately, the hull is a two piece design that is attached with screws. I used a silicone sealant on the inside upper hull, that way, the sealant is held in place clamped between both hull pieces, instead of just applied on the outside like the manufacturer did. Oh, make sure you replace the stock scres with stainless steel screws, my screws started to rust almost immediately.

Power Figures: Stock motor and prop (5.5") with Uranus 18A ESC
2S 1300mAh Lipo:
Initial Battery Voltage: 8.34v
Volts: 7.81v
Amps: 10.20A
Watts:79.7W

Power Figures: Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv motor and EMP 5x5E prop with Uranus 18A ESC
2S 1300mAh Lipo:
Initial Battery Voltage: 8.25v (not fully charged, but good enough for this read)
Volts: 7.79v
Amps: 10.97A
Watts: 85.5W

I tried the Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv Outrunner Motor with 3S:

Uranus 18A ESC
3S 1300mAh Lipo:
Initial Battery Voltage: 12.53v (not fully charged, but good enough for this read)
Volts: 11.23v
Amps: 19.00A
Watts: 214.5W

I will be using 2S for now because of the 18A rating of the ESC. A 30A or 40A ESC would allow 3S.

Update November 2014: Finally broke a prop, so I tried the APC 5.25x4.74 prop
Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv motor, 18A ESC,

2S 1300mAh Lipo:
Initial Battery Voltage: 8.38v
Volts: 7.93v
Amps: 11.61A
Watts: 92.6W

==============================================

Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv Outrunner Motor Specs (From Turnigy)

Model D2826/6
Volts: 7.4-11.1v
Max Pull: 960g (2.1 pounds)
Weight: 50g
Shaft size: 3.175mm (1/8")
Max Power: 342W
ESC: 40 A
Battery/Prop: 2S 7x4 prop, 3S 7x3 prop
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Last edited by nioa; Nov 21, 2014 at 11:32 AM. Reason: Updates
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Old Aug 10, 2013, 04:13 PM
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My first airboat, as you can see I used 2 different kits 2 make my boat.
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Old Aug 15, 2013, 02:53 PM
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Sweet!
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Old Aug 15, 2013, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nioa View Post
Sweet!
Thank You
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Old Sep 19, 2013, 02:41 PM
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Thanks for all this info.

I recently purchased the same motor you upgraded to (for the Swamp Dawg) & noticed it is quite a bit heavier. I am concerned about tip-over in turns because of the added weight that high up. What has your experience been? Have you also found it to be tail-heavy?

Also, what prop did you find to be best for this application?

Thanks!
Andy
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Old Sep 20, 2013, 03:41 PM
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The slight extra motor weight doesn't really seem to affect the balance of the boat. I am not trying to race or push things too much so I'm satisfied with the stability. I can move my balance point around by moving the battery since I have set the compartment up to be roomy. No issues.

I am still using the prop in the article. I have not had much need to change it.

The Swamp Dawg is a fine little boat, but I do like the Aquacraft better, it has more stability and I can really jerk it around better when the mood hits.

Nick
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Old Oct 02, 2013, 05:01 AM
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HobbyKing Swamp Dawg Airboat MODIFIED

Hi Nioa, great job!
Please, could you tell us if is suitable, for "Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv Outrunner Motor Specs (From Turnigy)", a 3 blade prop (7x3,5) like this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html ?
Many thanks!
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Old Apr 15, 2015, 12:45 PM
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I purchased a Swampi as well and it is a blast. I love it.
Maiden: HobbyKing Swamp Dawg Air Boat (ARR) (part 1) (3 min 5 sec)
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Old Apr 15, 2015, 01:14 PM
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What a nice location. Glad you're enjoying the boat, thanks for sharing!

Nick
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Old Apr 19, 2015, 03:57 PM
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New Pics from today. Swamp Dawg with Decals in crystal clear water. Running videos coming soon.
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Old Apr 19, 2015, 05:34 PM
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I have a question maybe one of you can help me with. I converted my mini alligator to brushless with a futaba 3prk a Tx and Rx . I started with a 40 a esc rom a walkera heli. It all worked great the only issue was that the walkera esc is not programmable so I can not cancel the brake function.
I bought a Hobby Wing Pentium 40a esc( I already had the programing card) I soldered all the ends on and plugged the 3 wire throttle lead into the slot on the card an plugged in a battery and nothing. No tones form the esc and no lights came on, on the programming card. Next I attached the 3 wires to the motor and tried again. This time the esc made the correct tones to signal connection but still no lights on the program card and no further functions at all.
What am I doing wrong? I have used HW esc on helis and no problems at all. The card has always worked in the past as well. I am stumped and dry docked.
Jack
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Old May 11, 2015, 11:38 AM
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Here is my newest vid: Swampi with Onboard Camera
HobbyKing Swamp Dawg Air Boat (ARR): onboard (3) (4 min 39 sec)
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Last edited by Stereodreieck; Jun 29, 2015 at 08:04 AM.
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Old Jul 03, 2015, 11:26 PM
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Hi Nioa,
First off nice boats, I like your mods. I'm new to electronics. I'd like to use the stock motor then swap it out later, also the esc mounted to the side brace. The wiring on the esc and motor, is there any reason I shouldn't cut them shorter?
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Old Yesterday, 01:28 PM
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Welcome to my thread, and thanks for the kind words.

There is no reason to have long wires. Short is fine here.

Nick
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