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Old Sep 27, 2010, 09:39 PM
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It seems my winner went with this instead....

http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-Top-Flite-Fus...73847658550631
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Old Nov 17, 2010, 10:06 PM
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3rd pull - approx 3/4lb, 12oz, 340grams - solid
SOLD!!!
Tail separate to minimize shipping cost and ease installation.
Digital templates for internals provided.














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Old Nov 18, 2010, 01:10 AM
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Good looking bird!! 4 sure i will be following!
-Jukka-
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Old Nov 23, 2010, 03:48 PM
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Yes folks, it could be you. Today, I realized that hey, I'm a manufacturer! ...and you can be too....now get sanding


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Old Mar 05, 2011, 05:37 PM
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I've been selling just straight fuses, but this week I'm making up a cowl mould so that I can include the cowl with the fuselage. I was just about to decide on a cooling fin angle and glue it place before doing the panel lines etc.. Then I thought "should I be trying to make them functional?" then I thought "I wonder if anyone else has done this."

SINGLE MOULD? (Everyone gets the angle I settle on - partially open for air flow with minimum drag)
TWO MOULDS? (Everyone glues their own in place or decides how to make they own functional)

HAS ANYONE EVER MADE A FUNCTIONAL ONE?
I'm thinking about a draw-wire through eyelits at the open end and eyelits over a fixed wire in the front for a hinge. (how to get enough servo throw - long throw arm I suppose?)

Don't be afraid to chime in with opinions, ideas, whatever - I won't shoot you down - you're in friendly skies here!



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Old Mar 18, 2011, 03:17 AM
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More or less just a post for documentation's sake.
Cowl ready to mould.




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Old Mar 20, 2011, 02:38 AM
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I'll get it cleaned up shortly, but here are some pictures of the new cowl mould. I'll need to mix up some tooling epoxy and fill a couple of small voids, but it worked out well. (nice one pc mould with good trimming edges)




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Old Mar 20, 2011, 06:13 PM
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A glass table is a wonderful thing....






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Old Mar 25, 2011, 12:51 AM
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Canopy Mould with Vacuum Port

Hopefully, I'll be able to trim the canopy frame, put it back in the mould, and then vacuum form the clear sheet over the frame. I'll need to source some material for forming.





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Old Mar 26, 2011, 02:36 AM
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A word to the wise.

The original canopy could not be removed from the mould. I ended up plugging the vacuum port with clay and filling the mould with acetone in order to dissolve the original. I then drained it out the port into a suitable disposal container.

All in all though, I think it turned out well.

I will trim it up later and then mould a frame around it for clamping the clear sheet.

In the end, I'd like a functional canopy on the flaps channel for my effort.






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Old Apr 13, 2011, 03:24 PM
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Well, I've been relocated for just about 2 weeks now, so "the itch" is working its way to the surface again. I also have a new workbench that I "salvaged" from a junkpile. It's a great steel desk that had quite a few more bits and pieces that I didn't have room for, so I mixed and matched and came up with the stripped down configuration that you see here. It's sturdy, flat, level, and well re-inforced to make sure that it stays that way. I always frame on glass, so I won't be using it for that, but I was getting more than a little sore from working on my floor and coffee table. I hope to mount my roll of glass toward the wall so that I just pull on it and cut off what I need.

So here goes my first attempt at a canopy frame. For better or worse I'm trying a spray wax release. (too many requests for parts to spend a day waxing with carnauba paste each time - my preferred method)

My bulldog Bugsy says - "We've tried these sprays before and that's how we ended up at pure carnauba wax...."




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Old Apr 13, 2011, 06:22 PM
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It ain't pretty, but it's a one of a kind. (for now...)

1 layer - 9 oz/ft^2 bi-directional


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Old Apr 14, 2011, 05:38 AM
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Release was exceptional. Although this part is not really a challenge in that respect as it can simply be peeled off the mould. As with the first pull on most tools, I found a couple of places that will require special attention to prevent underfill. If I was a rich man, I would spend the money on some consumables and draw vacuum on the next one.

I haven't put my hands on my dremel since the move, but once I find it, I'll trim this one up and spray some primer on it to see how much detail transferred.

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Old Apr 14, 2011, 10:04 PM
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Well, I won't be using this one, but I think I learned what I needed to in order to make one worthy of putting back into the mould and forming the clear canopy around. I think we all get the idea.

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Old Apr 15, 2011, 08:49 PM
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Today I decided to put together a vacuum source for our little canopy mould. It has a quick-disconnect to the compressed air source and is hooked directly to the vacuum port of the canopy mould.

This will allow me to pull and monitor vacuum on the mould with a little double sided tape around the perimeter of the flange (the smooth surface produced by the glass table top) and a piece of nylon sheet that I still need to salvage somewhere. (pool liner??)

Epoxy won't adhere to the nylon as the frame layup cures but is air tight.

The next layup schedule will be one layer of 2 oz/ft^2 cloth to fix the underfill spots where the heavier cloth didn't get into the corners and to eliminate the frayed edge when trimming with the cutoff wheel.

Once the frame has been trimmed and put back into the mould I will do a similar operation but with the clear canopy sheet across the mould face. Of course it will be heated to a malleable condition before it is sealed across the mould.

This will mould the clear canopy around the fibreglass frame.

Flip the switch and vacuum is pulled on the mould until it reaches an adjustable limit. Should small vacuum leaks develop during the cure, vacuum is re-applied automatically to maintain constant pull.

How many inches of mercury I can pull with this setup has yet to be determined and I'm not going to guess. Frankly I don't think it will take anywhere near 1 atmosphere (or 1 bar, or 28 inches of mercury, or 14.7 psi at sea level...etc)

I'd guess that there's roughly 1/2 ft^2 of mould face at even 10 psi would be like applying around 700 lbs evenly distributed directly on the mould surface.

I can't wait to hook up the compressor, open the valves, and throw the switch....







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