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Old Feb 13, 2012, 12:14 AM
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...now let's see...where was I ?? Oh yes, let's build a fuselage !!

It often seems that life has a way of pulling us away from things. This is exceptionally true with a project of sufficient scope to impress. lol
The trick, is to make your way back home....

I've been to the local school supply store in my ongoing efforts to stock my shelves with goodies that I can use to itch my constructive itch from time to time. I came away with I think what you will agree is the cheapest method for pigmenting your epoxies.

Now, as regards effectiveness, this test will serve to establish a rather subjective pass, or fail grade to the candidate in question. In support of my somewhat educated guess, I will attempt to attach supporting documentation of related adhesion test results for various common pigmenting approaches; one of which I was rather impressed to discover was tempera powder.

If I'm unable to attach the aforementioned article, I will suggest that a google search of the terms "West Systems, tempera, adhesion, results" will also provide a quick link.

For this one, I intend to incorporate a 1/4" 5 ply firewall and I also have what I think you will find to be an interesting idea for applying camouflage in the mould with my new tempera powders.





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Old Feb 13, 2012, 12:52 PM
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First things first; we're gonna need patterns for our camouflage design. I've taken a few liberties in the name of artistic impression here with regards to symmetry and the like, but hey, it's my fuselage afterall isn't it. (??)

I've used an old pair of pants here to drape and tape. Taped in place with duct tape, and marked with a sharpie.







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Old Feb 13, 2012, 03:56 PM
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...and we're gonna need a firewall...
- don't forget to take a minute to identify your templates for later when you don't know what the heck it was anymore
- and don't forget to cleanup and put your tools away as you go (took me a good 40+ years to learn this one, but building in your kitchen helps...)









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Old Feb 14, 2012, 06:55 PM
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The engineer in me likes to set productivity benchmarks. The modeler in me prefers to rise above.

Main fuselage mould sections are prep'd and gtg. If you're interested in this sort of thing you might find it interesting that each section was fully prep'd individually and as they were assembled, additional thick paste wax was applied to each flange so that as they were bolted together (from the centre, outward..) the fresh paste was extruded from the seams.

I then ran a Qtip along the fresh wax and smoothed it into the seam. After it had hazed, I carefully buffed the areas to sheen again. Voila - I hope you can see the results clearly in the pictures. I don't know how I might have got them any better...

...another day, another day closer...






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Old Feb 15, 2012, 07:00 PM
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Alright - here's the straight dope - sometimes you win, sometimes you lose, but you always learn... lol

The epoxy was great, although I'm glad I got the slow hardener! Almost the consistency of water initially, it wetted out superbly, but when it kicked, boy did it kick! (cost me a new brush arghhh)

I also thought that my patterns were pretty nifty, but I should've paid closer attention and registered them in one place and not two. There's mismatch on this one that there won't be on the next, but it should blend in with an airbrush in about 2 minutes.


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Old Feb 15, 2012, 08:15 PM
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 10:48 PM
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Mixing tempera powder in larger quantities in advance allows easy mixing into resin prior to adding hardener. The larger scale is great for mixing epoxy and hardener with 1 gram precision. The smaller scale I used for mixing powders because of it's 0.1 gram precision.



The dark brown is 33% white into brown.
The light brown is 5% brown into white.



Perhaps this misfit will be best camouflaged for a nudist colony! It's kinda funny in person. )



I've used 3/4 Ounce cloth in the sharp corners, and the surface veil again, in the tight spots here.

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Old Feb 16, 2012, 04:43 PM
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OK, so it's 3/4 Oz cloth in all the tight spots. This is followed by a layer of 9 OZ cloth all around and overlapped in some critical areas like around the firewall and wing saddle etc.. Then it's all wrapped up with a final layer of surface veil.

You like??







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Old Feb 17, 2012, 12:13 AM
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18 hrs so far...but here's two pieces in the bank

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Old Feb 17, 2012, 10:27 AM
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For my next trick, and with a little bit of luck, I will demonstrate a bit of the assembly plan that I designed into this mould more than 5 years ago now....patience my friends, patience...

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Old Feb 18, 2012, 08:04 AM
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The chin plate is 2 layers of 6 Oz and 2 layers of 9 Oz. This is what connects the firewall to the wing saddle.






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Old Feb 21, 2012, 10:16 PM
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Changed the lamination a little - 3/4 Oz all over, 2 Oz all over, 6 Oz Chin Plate
Also layed in some scrap 1/8" ply to attach cowl mounting blocks to later.





...next to join main halves and then assemble with firewall subassembly
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 03:50 PM
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Trimmed the perimeter with a blade at around 10hrs into room temp cure.
Prepped for joining with 80 grit paper.
Notice that I'm also going to insert the 1/8" ply dowel bulkhead now as well. I cut away the opening by removing the lower wing saddle sections of the mould and getting in there with a dremmel and a cutoff wheel rather than messing with the knife.






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Old Feb 23, 2012, 03:46 PM
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Main Fuselage Joining

1" wide 6 Oz X2 layers
(gotta get some tape...)






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Old Feb 24, 2012, 12:45 AM
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I can't believe I forgot to take a picture, but you'll have to take my word for it that there's a 1/8th ply bulkhead in there too. It's sandwiched between 3/4 Oz and several layers of 6 Oz cloth.

I impregnated the epoxy with black tempra with the idea being easy contrast witht any contaminates that might get picked up by the wing locating face...and I hadn't used black yet either


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