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Old May 22, 2011, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dsquire View Post
Received my Freeman DVD in the mail today. Thanks for the link Slo & Low. I'm patiently watching this bird being born.

Cheers

Don
My pleasure Don. This moulding thing has really taken my modelling to the next level and given me new challenges: If you're anything like me that DVD is a gold mine of possibilities. The only question is what to crash next!
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Old May 22, 2011, 05:22 PM
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So the hinge pins are level, at the same height, and in the same plane. Hopefully this will work because it will take what is really an awkward two person job and make joining the bulky clam sections a one handed operation. There's still some play in the end because I can shim the hinge plates on the hardwood should need be to get things finalized.



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Old May 23, 2011, 05:35 PM
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Slow & Low,
I've been waiting to see this finished mold for a year now and have to say this may be the most crazy setup I've ever seen. I'm lost as to what you are doing but watching with rabid intrest!! Good luck and good to see you back on the air for a change!!
Sunnybreeze
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Old May 23, 2011, 06:39 PM
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Good things come to those that wait Mr. Breeze - and to those who spend more time planning than building...lol

So this is pretty much the mould form completed and ready to cast. I will now go over everything with a fine tooth comb and make sure all the clay is finished off properly.

Once I've laid the main lower section in the formers, they will need to be removed. The clay blocks around the top will just give me somewhere to get between the newly cast mould face and the white board. The formers are very close to the finished plug and we don't want to be trying to force something in the seam to pry the board away from the plug in order to carry on to the second mould section. (main upper) Just dig out the clay and there'll be a nice place to GENTLY pry off these white board formers.

The recesses around the perimeter of the base will also provide a little rigidity but that's not really why I did it.

I've also added two air ports in the wheel bays. They're held in place with clay. Just before laying up a part in the mould I will fill the hole with some clay and glass over them. Once the part has cured I'm hoping that a short blast of air in this location will free the part from the mould. It's the deepest spot in the mould, and it's a flat face at the bottom of a tightly controlled cylindrical form....we'll see....







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Old May 26, 2011, 03:27 PM
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Almost forgot to fill the wing mounting holes...added cavities in the mould at the aileron trailing edges too. The empty cavity just outboard of the inboard hinge (hmm...clear as mud eh?) will provide a place to feed the control rods from the bellcranks during assembly.

Oh, and a quick pic from the couch of all the pieces that I have moulds for, all duct taped together - motivation....



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Old Jun 11, 2011, 10:04 PM
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Great Work
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by frequentflyer1 View Post
The Hawking Voice is so annoying I can not watch these videos. I am speaking for myself and 6 employees. What are you thinking?
I'm laughing because when I wanted learn all of the techniques in these slide shows, I would've watched them on mute and paused on each slide while I was taking notes. LOL but instead, I made myself laugh while taking the time to try and help out people who aren't motivated enough to pay attention for 10 minutes let alone several years on a project of their own, where I could go and make similar posts to the ones they are kind enough to take the time to leave on my dime....please go away and leave me alone....end of story.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 11:16 PM
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I had no idea
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 11:29 PM
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I was just trying to be constructive. Sorry if I offended you. But I'm not alone. I've seen these on you tube many times and always wonder why the mask and the weird voice.
Lesson #1 - don't go on to a public forum and get pwned in front of 6 people who blow sunshine up your a## and then send you out as their personal pet jester in an effort to do as little as possible while you're in the corner office trying to look "constructive"

Lesson #2 - NEVER ask yourself why....that's just plane old defeatism with a genuine lack of courage - always ask yoursef why not - now write that one down, it was important
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 11:36 PM
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Sorry. I had no idea. I thought you were just goofing around with the mask and the voice. I hadn't read all the thread and had not seen post 68.
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Old Jun 12, 2011, 10:31 AM
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OK whatever
Dear Mr. Frequentflyer,

Please read post #67 & #68 of this thread. Mr. Slow & Low has a voice disability. He uses the voice translator in the videos because he can't use his own.

Adam
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Old Jun 14, 2011, 02:42 AM
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Once I have progressed to some of the heavier cloth layers in the layup of this main lower mould section, I will lay this straw conduit down on a tacky surface and continue to lay cloth up on top of it. All of the joints have been sealed with clear tape to keep the resin out. I will mould a pipe union into the end faces so that I can screw taps onto each end of the mould.

By running hot tap water through the mould face, I hope to have a means for controlling the time/temp curve for the cure and tool cycles. I should be able to reduce the cure time to some noticeable effect with only tap water to a maximum of about 140 deg. fahrenheit or about 60 Celcius.

To my estimation, this would represent the home hobbiest's best chance of approaching any sort of idealized tool utilization rate while maintaining a moderate capital investment.




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Old Jun 14, 2011, 11:04 PM
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The lowest cost solution seemed to be a hose repair kit. It cost me just under $5 for both the male and female brass fittings. I now have a couple of spare 1/2" gear clamps in the top drawer of my tool chest.

I've positioned the hose hookups on the rear face of the mould section so that the potential exists to hook the upper and lower sections together in a series configuration during final assembly with two small lengths of hose.

Normally I would wait an additional 24 hrs to demould the joined wing assembly. With heat to aid in reducing cure times and improving wing rigidity, I'm hoping to take a mould cycle from a tiresome 3 day operation to an easy 2 days per wing.



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Old Jun 15, 2011, 01:26 AM
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Simply brilliant with the drinking straw water passage!
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Old Jun 15, 2011, 06:43 AM
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France
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Do you think the straw is strong enough to not leak ?
I would choose somme tubing ,silicon hose.
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