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Old Apr 20, 2001, 12:06 PM
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Arlington,VA USA
Joined Jan 2001
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Wattage Hawk mods/ideas go here!

I finally got my hawk unpacked and am in the process of throwing it together.
Each wing has a foam "filler" that is wrapped by a heavier foam skin. One of the wing halves has about 1/2" less (width) foam than the other, leaving quite alot of airspace.....hmmmm....I'm going to use two small spars (1/8" composite) that goes about 4" deep into each wing.
I also glued 1" x 1/2" strips of velcro on the inside of each side of my fuse at the point where I will mount the servos. Each servo (CS10s) has velcro cemented to it. The servos are held tightly, and can be moved pretty easily for adjustment. It looks really "clean" also. I will probably do the same for the receiver and ESC. I'm thinking about using larger strips of velcro for the battery....opinions anyone? My motor will be a AF 010 in the final version....but I think I'll fly it first with the stock 380.
What do you guys use to finish it? Paint? Tape? Will monocote work? I think if I left it white that I would lose it.

Does anyone know of a source where I could buy just a wing? I've got some more ideas that I would like to try.

thanks

pullin'
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Old Apr 20, 2001, 02:52 PM
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Steve McBride's Avatar
Agra, Oklahoma
Joined Feb 2000
5,390 Posts
Pullin'

I use the double sided foam tape and it work great. You will want to crank up the control throws a bunch and this can really torque the servos around. My fuselage sides deform from the torque of the servos. Give the velcro a try and make sure they don't pull loose. I see no reason why it would not work if the velcro is strong.

My next wing will have a spar as far as I can get one inside the wing. No folding in flight (yet) but a incident with a tree folded one wing slightly where the top protective cardboard material stops. I would want a spar to at least extend past this point. I began to glass the entire wing but stopped on the top surface only as I was adding too much weight with the heavy glass I was using. Next wing may have .56 ounce cloth instead of the spar.

I installed a long piece of velcro on the floor at the front to the middle of the wing saddle area. This lets me put a 6 cell pack wayy up front and move a 10 cell pack back. With the 010 you will need to put a 6 cell pack against the back of the motor to get the C.G.

I used velcro for receiver and speed control - no problems with that. The receiver behind the battery on the same velcro and the ESC on the inside of the cockpit area.

My first fuselage shattered when it struck a landscape timber when it was very cold. This was on a gental glide. Just the other wekend I had a receiver go out on me and put it straight in from 150 feet up, full throttle and just broke the prop! I am thinking the first fuselage incident was a fluke - perhaps an early production unit?

Be sure to scuff sand the fuselage if you want paint to stick to it well.

As for the Wattage 650AAA NiMH cells - I can't say they are as good as they claim, but certainly for 5 amps they work well. The 720's and 700's shoudl work well too. I know the 700's and 650's work well on the 010.

Good luck!

Steve McBride
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Old Apr 20, 2001, 04:18 PM
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Randy S's Avatar
Winchester, Kentucky
Joined Jul 2000
435 Posts
I am on my second Hawk and have implemented the following...

1. An aluminum arrow shaft inside the wing. It runs almost tip to tip and was bent in the middle to allow the stock dihedral.

2. An Astroflight 020 brushless motor spinning an APC 4.75 x 4.75 prop. I may try a 6 x 3 folder on it also.

3. I left the area under the canopy solid. I didn't see any real reason to cut it out since the battery change is done by removing the wing. I think this makes the fuse a little stronger.

4. A BRIGHT neon paint job to help keep track of this little rocket.
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Old Apr 20, 2001, 09:36 PM
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Palo Alto, CA, USA
Joined Nov 2000
1,019 Posts
I am in the process of putting together two Sportys. I noticed the inner foam mismatch in the wings also. The funny thing is that the wing that has more foam in it is lighter. I think it is something they do at the factory to match the wing halves. I am building one Sporty with the stock motor and the second one will have an AF 010. I am pretty sure both will weigh less than 10 Oz. ready to fly.

Neil and Greg, Do you guys ever come down to Ranch San Antonio?

[This message has been edited by kasra (edited 04-20-2001).]
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Old Apr 20, 2001, 10:43 PM
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Ontario Int, California, United States
Joined Feb 2001
628 Posts
You're right on Randy-did the same thing with my Hawk leaving the canopy solid-makes for a stronger fuse-I did cut out the plastic canopy anyway and spray painted it BLACK INSIDE then instead of screwing-I just taped it in the sides-looks cool! It's kinda tricky trying to ligned up the motor to the mount plate and placing the screws but it's well worth it! Very solid. I just saw this new motor from Hobby-lobby- Acro 280BB which they advertise to be 3 X the power of a reg. 280!! for $39.00 -I wanted to make it lighter so it'll land better. I will need to drill a new mounting holes to accomodate this new motor. Greg, how did you missed up the ailerons-I wanted to do the same thing since it's pre scored for it. I've been flying my ist Hawk with the stock motor and it flies great! I glued a long strip of velcro under fuselage-as a cushion when I lands it on the parking lot so I don't scrape the inside! I also got this idea of gluing a screen in front of the air scoop so when you land it in the grass- it don't scoop grass clipping and soil inside!!
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Old Apr 20, 2001, 10:47 PM
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Ontario Int, California, United States
Joined Feb 2001
628 Posts
The screen cover in front of the air scoop is a bright idea from one of you guys when I posted this problem of grass and soil getting inside! 'Don't want to get the creidt when it's not due! Thanks for the great idea!!!
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Old Apr 20, 2001, 11:31 PM
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Neil Morse's Avatar
San Francisco, CA, USA
Joined Jul 1999
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Kasra:

This is weird because I noticed the same thing about the wings on my Sporty. It's odd that they seem to have a system that uniformly mismatches the inner foam on the wing.

Anyhow, to answer your question, yes, I sometimes come down to RSA (as does Greg), but it's a bit of a drive for us. However, I love to go there because of the great crowd and the great selection of planes. I was just saying to a friend this morning that it has been far too long since I've made it down there, so I will try to do it soon. I'd love to meet you and see your Sportys (Sporties?), especially the 010 equipped one since I've been thinking along those lines myself. I haven't weighed mine, but 10 oz. sounds on the light side to me. How often do you make it to RSA? Every Saturday and Sunday morning? I know that's what I'd do if I lived as close as you do! Let me know, and I'll email you the next time I come down.

Neil
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Old Apr 21, 2001, 01:11 AM
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Neil Morse's Avatar
San Francisco, CA, USA
Joined Jul 1999
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Pullin':

I think you may be able to buy the wing separately from Hobby People. Check out their website.

Your plan sounds fine to me, with the exception of using velcro to attach the servos. This would make me uneasy since I find that velcro allows things to move around a bit, and I would use double-sided foam tape instead. However, I've read that some people use velcro for servos, so this may just be a personal preferance on my part. I wouldn't cover the plane with anything, but some paint and stickers will help keep it in view. It's a tiny little thing, and will disappear very fast, particularly with the 010!

Keep us posted on your project,

Neil

[This message has been edited by Neil Morse (edited 04-20-2001).]
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Old Apr 21, 2001, 01:30 AM
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oakdale, ny, usa
Joined Aug 2000
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I picked up what is suposed to be industrial grade velcro at the local Home Depot (a harware giant!)

I plan on using it on servos but havent done so yet
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Old Apr 21, 2001, 01:47 AM
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San Francisco
Joined Jul 2000
982 Posts
I built my Hawk with ailerons (recently deceased due to aileron failure)and used the stock motor. The airplane flew fantastically well with the stock setup and is quite fast. One thing I would consider since you plan to use a AF 010 is the positioning of components to achieve proper cg. I had to shove the battery as far forward as possible on mine for correct cg even with the heavy 380 motor supplied with the Hawk. I would try to put everything as far forward as possible to compensate for the much lighter brushless motor. Have fun and definitely apply some bright tape or stickers - it moves quickly and gets small in a hurry.

Greg
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Old Apr 21, 2001, 06:20 PM
jrb
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jrb's Avatar
Edina, MN, USA
Joined Oct 1999
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My next Hawk flight will be with the Sportyís original GB, 280 & prop. I also have a 7" folding prop to give try as well.

To date Iíve flown the Hawk with 380 and the TMF Super 300 (best motor I know of) using the 5x2.5; the 380 makes it too much overweight and nose heavy which requires a lot of field for landing.

Iím certain to get good climb and better glide with the GB; it is also lighter than the 380 by a good bit.

Using one of my spare wings (have made the spar and have all the materials) I plan to make a Twin EDF Hawk using a set of KP-44s and Johnson 180 motors.
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Old Apr 23, 2001, 08:48 AM
jrb
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Edina, MN, USA
Joined Oct 1999
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Flew great with Sporty stuff (GB/280/7.5x5); ESC w/o brake so spining prop disk allows Hawk to slow down a lot. Wind was blow 20 and I could virtually desend verticly.

Fold prop allowed very nice glide; though I had to pithc the nose up to a stall to get prop to fold (no brake).

Top speed was not significantly effected and climb was fantastic; RTF weight is less than with 380 and CG was right on, not nose heavy as with 380.

More flights with folding prop while I build EDF wing.
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Old Apr 23, 2001, 11:08 AM
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Arlington,VA USA
Joined Jan 2001
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I see no reason to cut out the canapy hole (I did not).
..nice idea painting the capapy inside...I do believe that hazard-orange will go well with the florecent-purple of the plane.<G>

Because my "wing-stuffing" was asymetrical, I went ahead and filled the wing that was lacking about 1/2" of foam (I cut it out of simular foam stock).

I'm not sure if my ESC has break (Great-Planes GP10 ESC)....I am interested in trying a folder...I do have a brake-ESC, but it is a biggin' (30 amp nominal).

Has anyone put in a firewall of sorts to protect motor/electronics in a nose-down wreck? How about a lump of soft foam in the nose?

Pullin'
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Old Apr 23, 2001, 12:05 PM
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Agra, Oklahoma
Joined Feb 2000
5,390 Posts
The reason I cut canopy area free is for quick battery change out. With tape you can change faster than removing the wing.

The fuselage does not seem to suffer from it. However I would not cut close to the wing saddle area like the scribe line suggests. I would also not cut the wing saddle area close to the canopy area as that line suggests. The front wing dowel area seems to be a possible weak link if the area is left too thin.

I still have 'Hawk-in-a-box' to finish. Can anyone comment on the aileron mod? I am interested in how robust the mod is and how well the ailerons work.

Good luck!

Steve
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Old Apr 24, 2001, 12:13 AM
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Ontario Int, California, United States
Joined Feb 2001
628 Posts
Acro speed 280BB combined with the new Graupner 4.7 x 2.4 folding from Hobby-Lobby will drop the weight a whole lot more than the stock setup of 380 motor-and increase it's speed! It's in the works on my Hawk-I'am just waiting for Greg how he did his aileron version! Otherwise, that setup will cost me at least 50 bucks but will surely lighten the load and increase it's performance and gliding/landing characterestics. Good luck!!!
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