Originally Posted by varungarg

Thank You Mitja

I have already started making the legendary Hotliner guppy .
I am presently doing the wings .
I am cutting all the parts and not using the precut CNC parts.
In the Guppy Template there is no template mentioned about the LEADING and TRAILING spans of the wings .
Could You please attach the template if you have or i have to design it on my own (LEADING and TRAILING Edges) ?

Thank You
Varun

There are no "templates" for Hot Wing. It is only Plans and Manual available....

Mitja

Hello friends my name is Aluisio, I am Brazilian and model airplane builder and 14 years, I'm crop duster pilot and glider instructor, I always liked gliders, I think it's a plant that GUPPY and started to build one, I'll post the photos of the building to you.

Thank You Mitja,

Having some problems with motor mounting , how do i convert the lead ballast nose block into MOTOR MOUNTING ?
or is there any other way of making a motor mounting ?
does it depend upon the motor i am using ?
is it fine if i use a brushless motor without outrunner ?

I am sending new photos of the Guppy, in this final phase, will fly on the weekend, the approximate weight is 600g.
I am very happy with how it looks, let's see how it behaves in flight.
Aluísio.

Hi, I'm new here and to see the guppy e decided to do it I fell in love.
I would like to know that I have to buy wide sheets of balsa wood to make the parts

Someone can tell me what materials you mail to your guppy pondriais that are cheap components and yet fairly good.
Thanks I hope your answers

Originally Posted by AluisioSky

I am sending new photos of the Guppy, in this final phase, will fly on the weekend, the approximate weight is 600g.
I am very happy with how it looks, let's see how it behaves in flight.
Aluísio.

Nice Guppy! How was first flight?

Mitja

Originally Posted by Albertferrer

Hi, I'm new here and to see the guppy e decided to do it I fell in love.
I would like to know that I have to buy wide sheets of balsa wood to make the parts

Someone can tell me what materials you mail to your guppy pondriais that are cheap components and yet fairly good.
Thanks I hope your answers

Balsa is of "usual" size... 100 x 1000 mm x thicknes

Thicknes you need is 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6mm as far as I recall from memory now...

Balsa is available in most hobby shops.

Mitja

Originally Posted by ultralajt

Nice Guppy! How was first flight?

Mitja

Hello everybody, I made the first flight in the guppy this weekend, but could not fly a lot, because the wind was very strong, had some problems, my 9x4 folding prop has not yet arrived, I used a 10X4.7 I use in shock , but found it too torke when accelerate it all loops, not yet know why this is happening, if anyone knows help me, another feature that I did not like and I will review the wings, he is in stall falls sharply the left side, left the CG as stated in the plan, but I think I'll leave it back, I found a little heavy on the nose landing.
Guppy BR
TOTAL WEIGHT 550G
Engine, e-max 2228
speed pro tower 20th
servos, 3 tower pro 9g and 1 dynam 8g
corona synthesized receiver
zippy battery 1200MA
Radio JR 388S

Hello Guys!

I want to build this plane, but I don't like planning programs, so my question is that somebody have the plans in the size of the balsa sheets, which I can print in a laser printer, and than I can ironing it to the balsa, or use paint thinner to copy it to balsa. This part of the building that I hate so much. So I need a little help to it.
Feel free to mail me! Thanks!

There is another option!
Print plans on paper and cut parts with scissors. Then slightly glue those paper parts on the balsa. Now cut out those parts from balsa using modeling knife. Sand imperfections if needed and peel away those paper.


Hint:

Thanks for the answer. I can print now the plan in laser printer, and my thechnique is working. I cut some parts right now I think it will be a slow work, because I have no so much time around now, but I hope in the winter I can finish this beautiful plane. I have all the things to do that. I'll share photos with you when I have some. Thanks the plans, the building guide, the pictures. These things helps so much for me.

Kazoo

hi, is there a building manual of the guppy or guppy mk 2 thats written in english?
thanks
Amit Ofer

I tried google translator to translate the manual, but the finally text was a little funny... But it helps a lot to understand the manual.

i never tried google translator on pdfs didn't know it can work
i will try, but it would be nice if someone could translate it to english

Originally Posted by AluisioSky

Hello everybody, I made the first flight in the guppy this weekend, but could not fly a lot, because the wind was very strong, had some problems, my 9x4 folding prop has not yet arrived, I used a 10X4.7 I use in shock , but found it too torke when accelerate it all loops, not yet know why this is happening, if anyone knows help me, another feature that I did not like and I will review the wings, he is in stall falls sharply the left side, left the CG as stated in the plan, but I think I'll leave it back, I found a little heavy on the nose landing.
Guppy BR
TOTAL WEIGHT 550G
Engine, e-max 2228
speed pro tower 20th
servos, 3 tower pro 9g and 1 dynam 8g
corona synthesized receiver
zippy battery 1200MA
Radio JR 388S

Alusiosky,

An electric sailplane will fly like crap with a big fixed prop on the nose. Furthermore, you must understand how a powered sailplane is being flown in the first place, in order to reap the benefits of the design.

Firstly, the sailplane is meant to be flown with no power most of the flight time. The power system is designed to climb the model to thermalling altitude. In competitions, only limited time is given for power on climb. You'll have at the most 50 seconds or a minute to climb as high as you can, and beyond that, points will be deducted. After that, you really want the model to be as aerodynamic clean as possible to stay in the air longer and hopefully, catch some thermals to extend the flight time. As such folder props are almost mandatory for such designs.

For such purpose, large folder props are often utilised to give near or at vertical climb. Climb angle at 60 degrees usually gives the fastest climb to height, due to the combination of static thrust from the power system and the lift created by the wings. For the steepest climb, you will want to use the available power from your powerplant to yield the optimum static thrust by sacrificing some prop velocity. For outrunner motors, props with lower pitch will be used and motor/gearbox combination will drive very large prop at much lower rpms. And for this reason, flying with strong wind will be very challenging, as the low prop velocity will make your glider having a hard time penetrating into the wind. In fact, it'll be easier to penetrate into the wind with the motor off and the prop folded.

For your case, your big, low-pitch fixed prop will not fold and still stick into the airstream, and is only making things even harder, as it will be, as the matter of fact, being turned into a big airbrake, especially so if it is left windmilling. In such conditions, the model will sink faster than your average sport powered plane, when the motor is cut, not to mention the torque of the big spinning prop doing all the funny things on your model. That could explain why your model lands hard.

I'll say, unless you are very sure, do not make too many changes to your model yet, especially the CG positions. Go for a proper folder prop and remember to program motor brake in your ESC. Go fly it and see if it turns out better. You'll still get the upward pitch moment and some left torque roll everytime you bring up the throttle, but try to hold the sticks to correct it until it has climb to good height, then shut the motor and trim the model to fly straight and level with the lowest sink rate. Once done, either you land your model, or let it glide around until it is low enough and send it climbing again with power. This time, remember how much elevator and rudder trim is required to correct the pitch and roll tendencies, to facilitate mix programming in your radio later.

Last but not least, powered glider spend most of its flying time gliding without power, or climbing at full or near full power. There's little use for throttle positions in the middle.

Hope these help.