1st : Choosing the Materials
In this case we're using copper wire (pink) and brass wire (yellow) of 1,5mm and 0,75mm. (The usual uniwire(one wire only) found in most electrical instalations)



2nd : Picking the isolator off
Any good knife will do it.



3rd : Straighting out
Straighten the most you can by hand. When done, attach one extremity to the drill and the other one to the bench lathe (or if you know you can stand it firmly, you can use a pliers, but you must hold it like a rock). Pulling the wire to the most you can, give some shots on the Drill (minimal speed) always pulling and straightning.
NOTICE : If the Drill has too many rotation/torque the wire can brake and cause serious injuries





4th : Cutting :
Equal sections, with the desired measure (respect the scale you are working on) usually a boat has hand rail height of 80 to 100 cms, depending on the boat (Don't forget to leave 3 to 4 mm of extension to fit (anchorage) the hand rails to the boat)
Take notice that most cutting pliers don't make the same cut to one extremety then it makes to the other, take advantage of this when choosing the anchorage and the soldering part.





5th : Yardstick :
Do this first to avoid later problems and repetitions



6th : Soldering :
30 or 40 Watts Soldering Iron (must be clean at all times), 60/40 Rosin Core, Deoxidizer or Soldering Paste (Greasy), Wood plate and Mould (this mould is a small wood square you glue to the wood plate to make the supports of the rail even).
The solder is taken out of the rosin core by the soldering iron in the exact quantity you need for that one joint.
When soldering, put the soldering iron on the joint and wait from 3 to 5 seconds till it melts perfectly on the joint.
Use any sharp tool at hand to hold the piece to the soldering point.
CAREFULL : With the extremly hot parts, after soldering they maintain their temperature for quite a while















With the 0,75mm brass wire, apply the rest of the accessories, but you have to do it faster to prevent the other parts from desoldering, You can also avoid this by applying a wet cotton.







Improvements :
If you have too much solder on the joints, you can get an eletrical multiwire (those with lots of small wires) and do the job. Apply some deoxidizer to the multiwire extremity, with the soldering iron give some heating to the joint you want to extract the excess, and when it's hot, apply the mutliwire and watch what happens.





Finishing :
After everything welded and done as you fill like, sand it off and wash the piece with alchool.
Note : The deoxidizer, in the long run, becomes a great oxidizer, so it's better if you clean this new piece in the end (and the tools you've just used lol)





Some Primer :



And you're done !!!!

Excellent tutorial. Thanks!

Wow!!!! Looks great, you make it look easy. Nice work.

Great tutorial,
Surely this is worthy of a sticky?

Cheers guys,

Thanks for the comments, but I don't know how to make it a sticky !? Anyone ?

The 'Sticky Fairy' has to be the one to make it a sticky.

Nothing to do then he he he

Thanks Tom.

Cheers.

The "Sticky Fairy"? Is this Alice in Wonderland?
Thanks for a great thread. I need to learn how to solder and ths will help a lot. Pete

Metatron
Thanks I now know that there are at least two of us whose workbench looks the
same
Bob

Cheers guys,

Thanks for your comments.
Pete, hope this thread helps. I've put in all the steps so that even the first timer may understand it.
Bob, I'm sorry to say that you're the only one right now with a messy bench, mate.

Mate
You caused me to lose fate in believing that there are others like me.Don't let my
wife see this!
Bob

Bob, you know how wives are, just give her a model boat by mother's day ...

Very nice discription

thank you
Andreas

You're welcome Andreas.

Cheers.

This is briliant. Answers all of the questions I was about to ask in a new posting in fact. A suggestion as an alternative to the damp cotton - if you're lucky enough to have some wet ceramic clay around, that works well too.