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Old Apr 02, 2008, 08:38 PM
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Woodland Hills, CA
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Lama V4 Swash Plate Help

Sigh, so once again, my swash plate separated... AFTER BEING GLUED BY GORILLA GLUE!!!???

I for sure thought gorilla glue was gonna hold it together, apparently not.
Now, I'm tired of gluing and taking the chance, so I'm looking for a spare aluminum/metal swashplate. Anyone have any spares? If not, looks like time to spend some moola either way
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Old Apr 03, 2008, 05:36 AM
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Have you tried JB Weld? It's pretty tough stuff.
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Old Apr 03, 2008, 06:30 PM
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Germantown, WI.
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I don't know what you mean by seperated; if you mean the arms that attach to the servos broke at the base, Gorilla glue won't fix that. Gorilla Glue does not work on any non-porous surface. You need to super glue it together, then wrap it with dental floss and epoxy it. It's quite strong. An aluminum swash is better, but try and find one.
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Old Apr 03, 2008, 07:00 PM
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Its the very top, where it holds the bearing down.
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Old Apr 03, 2008, 07:17 PM
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Germantown, WI.
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I can't help you there. But, I have one with strengthened arms you can have if you want it.

Here's some images of how to strengthen the swash arms:

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo...02939427owKSIx
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo...02939427PNEpMN
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo...02939427JmulKr
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Old Apr 03, 2008, 08:59 PM
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Roseville CA USA
Joined Jun 2006
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You seem to be suffering from swashplate seperation....I glued mine with superglue...it seemed to work, but I couldn't resist the bling so I replaced it with an AL swash. After installing and setup it seemed to me to be more precise and smoother than the plastic was. YMMV.

The real fix is the AL swash, some people have a problem spending the money on one, for me it was worth it. You might try to clean off the Gorilla and use CA glue (superglue), if that doesn't work for you, you might want to think about an AL swash. Shipping is pretty cheap with Slickzero.
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Old Apr 03, 2008, 10:25 PM
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Hehe Balr14.
I am about to order the aluminum swashplate from slickzero, along with some motors for my HBFP...They're pretty cheap too!
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Old Apr 03, 2008, 10:25 PM
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Does anyone have a picture (preferbably) tutorial on changing the swashplate and working everything together.
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Old Apr 04, 2008, 01:24 AM
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Roseville CA USA
Joined Jun 2006
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Well take it apart, throw the old part away - put it back together - fly.

Sorry...had to go there.

Almost as simple as that! After the new swashplate is installed, make sure your swashplate is level, if it isn't then adjust the rods from your servos, servos trims centered.

Be sure the ball end links move easily and smoothly, if they are to tight you will get TBE. Loosen the balls end links by squeezing the plastic link while it's on the ball with pliers, and a little lube (dry silicone, tri flow, rz-50). All the control rods should fall easily with gravity, but not be sloppy. Be careful and take your time and it should be good.
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Old Apr 12, 2008, 09:52 PM
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Ohio
Joined Apr 2008
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Have any of you ever heard of a product called "Plas-T-Pair" made by Rawn? I discovered it some years ago when I was running a small VCR repair shop. MCM Electronics sells it.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...ductid=20-1090

Rawn's part no. for it is 35175

You get a package with 2 bottles, including a nice instruction sheet with several suggested uses and techniques. One bottle is filled with what looks like granulated refined sugar. The other is a liquid catalyst. You mix together however much you need, into a syrupy paste consistency. A 3 oz. disposable cup works well for a mixing container.

It was designed to repair cracked or broken TV knobs, plastic cases, just about anything along those lines. Once mixed, you can work it like putty, or mix it a little thinner and pour it into a mold, or thinner yet and paint it on. You can prevent it from bonding to a surface by lining that surface with lightly greased foil, or applying Vaseline to the part where you don't want it to stick.

The stuff hardens in about 15-20 minutes. They claim you can repair plastic eyeglass frames with it, but I haven't tried that. If you have ever tried gluing those you know they usually break again. They show grinding a channel across the break, lying a small stiff metal rod between the broken pieces and then filling in the channel.

When it sets up, the only thing I can think to compare it to might be JB Weld, or possibly fiberglass like you might use in auto body repair, but without the fibers. It can be machined, drilled, tapped, etc. just like metal. Actually, you probably COULD use some sort of fiber cloth with it if you saturated the cloth.

Since is is stored as separate components, the shelf life is essentially "forever". I used some recently to fix the very thin and hollow outer knob on a Tektronics oscilloscope. I still had the same Plas-t-pair kit I had bought in the early 90s, and it was still just as good as new. No setting up or evaporation from those 2 bottles in over 10 years on the shelf.

I made a form of aluminum foil across the broken knob area, and then pressed some mixed material in like putty. Once it started to harden, I could peel away the foil. I was even able to mold the same lines they had cast into the original knob as a grip surface by "drawing" them into the putty with a needle file tip while it was still not quite set up. I painted the repaired area the same gray color as Tek. made the plastic knobs from, and you would have to look very close to see the repair.

I'll bet the stuff would be very handy for reinforcing or repairing plastic parts on these helis. I may get the chance to find out, myself. But I hope not too soon!
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