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Old Oct 25, 2008, 01:49 AM
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Pilots for the MIA 4#3/MCX Racing Canopies.

When flying with a buddy or others, I wanted a way to distinguish the helis and add a bit of racing edge! So I decided to include pilots in the 4#3/MCX canopies I make. I used color markers to paint them quickly but for a less shiny look satin finish model paints should be used. Anyway here is a sneak peak.
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Old Oct 25, 2008, 01:53 AM
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Old Oct 25, 2008, 09:29 PM
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My MIA build

So I built my fiber frame 4#3b with TUFF landing gear. Like a previous poster mentioned, you do need to take your time and file things to make everything fit perfectly. I ran into a few problems:

1- My servos pegs were smaller diameter than the chassis holes, so there was quite a bit of play even with the retainer clip. I decided to use a big zip tie to hold them put. It works well, but I'm not entirely happy about it. Adds .5 grams of weight

2- Installing the tuff gear with the standoffs makes putting a battery almost impossible since the landing gear cross frame is underneath the battery so it is very precarious. I saw another post about using the C channels instead so that you can have a flat area for the landing gear. You can see both configurations below. All in all, if I could do it over again, I'd just get the flex fiber gear and skip the tough gear due to this issue. It is not a good design....

3- the body carbon bar is too loose in the holes. I used some hot glue to fix it, but that doesn't look great. Also the body comes with o-rings that I used to prevent it from slipping inwards, but I'd rather have grommets to attach it as it pops off during crashes.

On the positive side

1- The heli with the new flybar is SUPER stable. Can hold position 4-5 seconds with hands off the sticks

2- The tail boom seems indestructible, that was the weakest link of the stock 4#3b in my opinion

3- Longer tail boom means much better tail hold, I only have to use 1/2 trim towards the end of the battery. With my stock 4#3b, I run out of trim constantly

4- Heli looks killer and the TUFF gear doesn't stick to carpet!

5- Only a few grams heavier, less than a scale body

All in all I'm very happy with it!!!! I think I might order the fiber flex kit to convert the other one.
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 12:58 AM
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MIA TUFF Strut Mounting Options

Potxoli, thanks for that review.

Regarding the Landing gear mounting, here is a phto and sequence of the way I suggest the TUFF struts be mounted using the white spacers and hardware supplied in the TUFF Struts kits.

For simplicity and to show the lower section more clearly, the frame does not have the upper section installed.

1) Upper Motor Plate with Flanged smaller screws
2) White Spacer
3) TUFF Struts
4) Battery Plate with longer screws
5) Either G10 angles skids or the Plastic TUbular ones with the green pegs

I am showing the G10 skids which simply press inside the Tuff Struts.

Note how the battery mounts much better and flush with the battery(lower) plate.
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Potxoli, thanks for that review.

Regarding the Landing gear mounting, here is a phto and sequence of the way I suggest the TUFF struts be mounted using the white spacers and hardware supplied in the TUFF Struts kits.

For simplicity and to show the lower section more clearly, the frame does not have the upper section installed.

1) Upper Motor Plate with Flanged smaller screws
2) White Spacer
3) TUFF Struts
4) Battery Plate with longer screws
5) Either G10 angles skids or the Plastic TUbular ones with the green pegs

I am showing the G10 skids which simply press inside the Tuff Struts.

Note how the battery mounts much better and flush with the battery(lower) plate.
of course! Wish I had thought of that. Since it came with no instructions, I just used the picture on your site in the 4#3b products page. See Below. Maybe you should change that picture with this otherone or provide a video or instructions

Any idea what I might have done wrong with the servos?
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
When you get the MIA Deluxe Flybar, there are some similar size O-rings to the ones that are incorporated in the 4#3B metal rotor head axle shaft, if I interpreted your words correctly, you can use the ones I supply with the MIA DeLuxe flybars, temporarily, to see if they work with your 4#3B rotor head. If they do, great, let me know and I will create a kit for those that wish to order the O-rings separately, for this application. If they are too stiff, put them back on the flybar, as retainers, for the bar weights, for which they were originally intended for.

Tip: The 4#3B needs a bit of slop in the rotor head. Too stiff of an o- ring dampers will make the helicopter to hard to control, too light of a dampers will make it too loose and the blades will flop all over.

The controls, links , swashplate, these need to be adjusted, as precise as possible, for better and more precise control. The MIA Swashplate standoff kits I supply with 3 O-rings, to take up any slack more precisely, between the swashplate and the top ball bearing of the main post, addresses this area.
The MIA Deluxe FLybar with tip weights adresses more stability. So I think you will be fine! be patient and give yourself a chance with the 4#3B. You
are not alone.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=4264

yeah i found those o rings on ebay and posted them on here. they where a little stiff but use a little lub and there fine , i tested there stiffness by putting both blade along side fly bar lift them up and if they dont fall down under there own weight the o rings need lubbed. i just turn the heli upside down and spraythe whole head with wd40. wd40 aint the best lube for the job it attracts dirt i know. but its all i had at the time and worked a treat though. i do it often now lub the whole head. stops binding great
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Note how the battery mounts much better and flush with the battery(lower) plate.
I, for one, hate dealing with rubber bands to hold my battery. If the battery was mounted using Velcro on the piece under the 4-in-1, would that put the CG too far forward? Is it even big enough to hold a battery? If not, a piece would need to be added to the existing plate to provide a surface for the Velcro to attach to.
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack
I, for one, hate dealing with rubber bands to hold my battery. If the battery was mounted using Velcro on the piece under the 4-in-1, would that put the CG too far forward?
Here's my MIA G-10 frame with a 4#3 battery frame I customized to fit, it works great! I also modified the stock geared tail motor assembly to work as well.

This has been a very durable frame for flight training!
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potxoli
of course! Wish I had thought of that. Since it came with no instructions, I just used the picture on your site in the 4#3b products page. See Below. Maybe you should change that picture with this otherone or provide a video or instructions

Any idea what I might have done wrong with the servos?
The site has been updated and that picture has been changed so there is no confusion, thanks.

Regarding the servos, Walkera made two sizes and the peg perforations on the motor plates are to allow either type. The frames have locking pin holes on the upper side frames, some older frames did not have both just one. If you find that the servos are a bit to loose, use a bit of double sided thin servo mounting tape of just regular double side tape to hold them against the side of the frames. The top servo locking plate should hold them snug this way also.
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 05:43 PM
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walkera 4g3 in full 3d flight video,

WALKERA micro 3D 4G3 video (3 min 21 sec)
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Hammer
Here's my MIA G-10 frame with a 4#3 battery frame I customized to fit, it works great! I also modified the stock geared tail motor assembly to work as well.

This has been a very durable frame for flight training!
That's a very nice battery tray mod. Great work. What did you do to the tail?
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 10:39 PM
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MIA Custom 5G6- Reversed Mechanics Munting

Today was a good day for playing with canopies and color schemes, but I was having a little trouble fitting the pilot/canopies I am making for the Blade MCX on the 5G6, so I reversed the mechanics, the battery now sits insise the canopy and to access it, the canopy lifts up like a car front hood. The receiver is on the rear and I added a solid boom and horizpntal stabilizer just like I am doing on the MCX Upgrades. I also installed some woodies, these have higher speed and would work great with a couple BL feigao or losi motors.

Here is one option in red.
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 10:53 PM
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metieval
I love that tail fin!!

Mario, Is there a way that raised horizontal tail fin would work for the MCX?

Thanks, Tim
Yes, it will. The MIA kits for both helis will have the fins so you can start with the shown length and trim lower or not use the vertical section, if you prefer, to keep it mounted flat to the boom, like the first photos I posted on the MIA Upgraded MCX.
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Old Oct 26, 2008, 11:48 PM
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