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Old Apr 10, 2008, 04:51 PM
Micro-Heli-Concepts
jasonjetski's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
4,984 Posts
You guys have got me sold on a new frame,but I need a friend to be the middle man.
Iam in Sydney.Is anyone interested in reselling one or 2 to me?
Regards Jason.
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Old Apr 10, 2008, 08:08 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
up and flying with MIA Frameset!

Got the new MIA retro frame up and flying today.
these are my initial impressions. Number One it looks so cool up in the air. i really need the new canopy Mario. the only hitch was the aileron servo wire is too short. so i had to extend it. other than that i'm suprised the DD tail works as well as it does. this a tribute to the walkera gyro in these little guys.
weight minus canopy and li-po is 42 grams vs. 40 grams with canopy for a stock 4#3. how does it fly? just as nimble as before. but now the tail and frame are indestructable. the next one will be build with 2.4ghz. then an all brushless one. i am very happy with the way is looks now and once i get some of marios canopies! oh yeah the weight is with a main motor heat sink.
i'm pretty sure everyone who gets one of these frames will be happy. i am.
thanks Mario for a neat product.
sorry i can't put up any pics my digital camera just took a dump
need to got to best buy and get a new one.
thanks, Mario!
-johnw
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Old Apr 10, 2008, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
Mario,
you do mean 250maH li-po not 400maH?
i really hope you make some frames in carbon fiber!
-johnw
Yes, John, thanks for correcting me on this, I meant (2) 250ma, that is what the Micron uses or (1) 400mah will fit just fine with either canopies. Post edited.

OK also added one of the canopies and sticker decal sheet on order page.
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; Apr 10, 2008 at 08:23 PM. Reason: Canopies and Stickers
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Old Apr 10, 2008, 08:39 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
canopy

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Yes, John, thanks for correcting me on this, I meant (2) 250ma, that is what the Micron uses or (1) 400mah will fit just fine with either canopies. Post edited.

OK also added one of the canopies and sticker decal sheet on order page.
thanks Mario,
i just ordered a few.
talk to you soon.
-johnw
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Old Apr 10, 2008, 09:33 PM
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Illonois
Joined Oct 2007
427 Posts
well i cant find my ca bottle soooo.. can i use super glue?
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Old Apr 10, 2008, 09:59 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
i just got the geared tailbox to fit on the MIA boom. i even have the tailfin on.
i'll get the second MIA flying tonight hopefully.
-johnw
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Old Apr 11, 2008, 12:28 AM
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CA (Crazy GLue) GLUING TIP

Quote:
Originally Posted by LexusIS300
well i cant find my ca bottle soooo.. can i use super glue?
Yes... you can, some super glues are based Cyano Acrylates, but test on scrap G10 material though, also some super glues are less viscous than others and may run faster, be careful so not to use too much. Medium Viscosity CA glue is prefered, this is what I used in the assembly videos. If in doubt, place a small amount of the glue, on a small, clean soda pop plastic bottle cap and use a tooth pick, to apply to the surface areas requiring gluing.
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Old Apr 11, 2008, 01:08 AM
Registered User
Illonois
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
i just got the geared tailbox to fit on the MIA boom. i even have the tailfin on.
i'll get the second MIA flying tonight hopefully.
-johnw
did you just make the hole bigger? i thought of using the gear box to and that mario!!
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Old Apr 11, 2008, 02:45 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
o.k. got my second MIA frameset up in the air. i am using the geared tail this time.
to be honest it fly's pretty much the same, but tail motor runs cooler.
i just drilled out the boom hole with a 1/8th drill bit. and the weight is exactly the same. they both fly pretty much like stock. they are going to be perfect for the BL conversion! i need a canopy!!
cheers, johnw
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Old Apr 11, 2008, 02:54 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
MIA Micron retro frame

Mario,
this heli would really benifit from micron motors,head,and 2s lipo!
it needs the more powerful motors.
-johnw
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Old Apr 11, 2008, 03:19 AM
Micro-Heli-Concepts
jasonjetski's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
4,984 Posts
Anyone in the USA interested in reselling a frame set to me in Sydney?
I don't expect charity,Name a price to make it worth your time please.
Regards Jason
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Old Apr 11, 2008, 04:27 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Mario,
i've noticed that with the new frame i can't get the tail to trim correctly.
i have the radio trim all the way over to try to compensate and the tail is still drifting.
both helis do this after the conversion. are you experiencing this too? i wonder what is causing this to happen?
-johnw
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Old Apr 11, 2008, 05:15 PM
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Tail Drifting Tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
Mario,
i've noticed that with the new frame i can't get the tail to trim correctly.
i have the radio trim all the way over to try to compensate and the tail is still drifting.
both helis do this after the conversion. are you experiencing this too? i wonder what is causing this to happen?
-johnw

John,

The Tail Drifting can be due to various things but is typically controlled with electonics settings, gyro, mixing, ESC. All thre of these devices have a role in the tail drift control, as well. Walkera has done this checks and balances act very nicely so that the user doesn't have to fool with the control, except for trims on the transmitter, but this is with the stock equipment. When we change parts and things and even redesign moment arms like on a frame or go with different blades etc, we have to understand that these changes will require some trimming and adjustments. Its a tradeoff.

you may feel also that the tail needs more or less tail power when going direct drive or with a geared tail rotor.

One thing is that because the tail rotor is sitting further away from the main shaft, with the new frame axle to axle distance, and depending on the pitch and rigidity of the main blades, the taill will require less power, this is the plus, by rule of moment arms , the further you place a weigh on an arm, the easier it is to move it , same principle applies here with tail boon distances holding a rotor at the end. So this, in fact, minimizes the need for more power to the tail rotor, but will change your tail drifting characteristics a bit. This is probably what you are noticing. Use the transmitter trims to adjust this, if this doesn't help check and keep in mind other areas I mention below.

Direct drive Vs. Geared Drive

Reason I went direct drive, is for simplicity, although yes the tail motor does get warmer than going with the geared box, and as per above, but this is the tradoff for a more simple system, and I really like this better than the geared box because it is less maintenance, wearing those tiny bearings was driving me a bit nuts. but this is me, and I do like and use gear boxes on larger helis.

If you go geared box, you will be minimizing further the need for tail power, in fact this is the reason why we employ gear ratios in a powered device.

So the choice is up to the user. But keep in mind the compromises each one provides.

About the Main Blade Rigidity and Pitch.

I have noticed on two on my Walkeras, that the blade pitch on the main can change, meaning they are not equally the same and so this will affect the tail drifting to some degre (i.e, the more pitch on the main the more tail power is required, the less pitch on the main the less pitch on the tail required), but not drastically, and you simply have to compensate with the trims on your tranmitter or on the gyro if you have this adjutment.

For the most part, on my setup the Wlakera electronics are doing wonderfully, this balancing act, but also bear in mind that my setup is done with stock components. Unfortunately I don't have your setup to be able to test and see where I can further give you tips on, but based on my experienced with helis in general these are my observations and suggestions.

Note also: The main blades on the Walkera are made from soft rubber like plastic, this is their pro, reason why they don't break like on the Micron, the con is that it may loose a bit of rigidity with time and use and especially when we keep handling them by making blade adjustments. So this will also affect the tail trim, just keep this small tid bit in mind.

About High Powered Motors (Losi)

These tiny motors pack quite a puch in them , I don't have the same ones some of you are using in your setups but I do know the characteristics and the power curves they can provide. These will also change the characteristics of the tail power requirements, depending on direct drive, or geared drive tails. Add to this separate components and you have a host of parameters, that we can control, the other side to all this power, at our fingetips, is all this becomes more and more complex and we are now at a totally different level of flying and enjopying our hobby.
This is the fun part but this requires explanation and understanding, as per above, so that we can enjoy the models even more.

I hope this Helps.
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; Apr 11, 2008 at 05:40 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2008, 05:44 PM
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Semi-Autostable Rotor Setup on the Walkera 4#3

In the next posts I will show how I am achieving this with my Walkera.

I will show you how to do this and perhaps do a video so you know what this does and how it all works.

But basically I am using:

(2) Walkera 5G6 Aluminum Heads
(1) MIA Uniflybar (TM) same flybar design, I have been using on the Bumble Bee and MIA Palm-Size (TM) Helicopters since I first made the Bumbe Bee.
(1) MIA Aluminum Rotor Hub, New for this project.
(1) Set of MIA Woodies awith the same G10 Blade grips I used on the Micron thread posted here in RCG a while back .

Some Combination of Links with aluminum Tubing
Mod to one of the Aluminum Rotor Heads to provide for a Ball Lik.

This system employs the 45 degree twist on the flybar in reference to the main axle vertical axis, as most 2 channel helicopters do it as well as "similar" to how Coaxial Helis achieve stability.

Unfortunately, you cannot use the 5G6 coaxial head for this mode because the angle is on the wrong side of the hub and the blades wuld have to spin the other way, reason I had to make a new hub. Now I could have used the Aluminum hub the Blue Anodized part for the 5G6 also but would have had to change rotation of the main and tail rotors as well. But is is possible to use this head also.
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; Apr 11, 2008 at 06:47 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2008, 06:20 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Mario,
i tried using the tail prop from one of my micron v2 helis.
this seems to balance out some of the tail drift problem. i am using the micron tail prop on both greared and DD MAI's.
are you going to sell these new mods from your last post?
-johnw
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