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Old Sep 04, 2008, 05:12 PM
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Yea I've been asking for an aluminum head block for about a year now. I would also like to see one of Marios one piece flybars for this. Maybe with an option to shift it to 45 degrees for auto stabilization if that is at all possible with a CP. The size of this bird makes it awesome for indoor adventures, but it can get dicey. Auto stabilization would make it a more pleasant experience. When you want to fly outdoors switch it back to a 90 degree.
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Old Sep 04, 2008, 05:19 PM
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malcr001's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Gt Lon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Here is the Phantom in two tone canopy and in full Carbon look.

I can't decide, the white canopy and carbon pattern windscreen or full carbon -stealth look. Eventually I will normally venture into molding them in various colors, as well, as I like to have that option also.

Updates at my site, here are a couple of pictures to go along with this post.
White canopy and carbon pattern windscreen looks the best. I have to say but what is up with the wierd canopy shape?
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Old Sep 04, 2008, 11:48 PM
Hang on, turbulence ahead
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St. Louis
Joined Dec 2007
534 Posts
[QUOTE=MarioIArguello].....white canopy and carbon pattern windscreen or full carbon -stealth look.....QUOTE]

The black and white version is far and away the best.

But you need to lose the lower portion. It looks like it's wearing pants.

Fix that and you will sell a zillion of them. (IMHO)
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Old Sep 06, 2008, 03:40 PM
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MIA UPgrades - Walkera #52

Canopy Shape and Color Schemes

Thanks for the input...

Most canopies out there are very similar to one another and I wanted to stay away from the more typical. I was undecisive about the color schemes only, but I decided I like both versions, so both versions are available, at my site.

Aluminum heads

I think the Walkera 53 alu head will work with the 52

Semi-Autostability for CP Helis.

I did a 45 degree head for a collective pitch version helicopter, but there is quite a bit of work involved in this configuration, of mixing arms and mechanics.

Another and my preferred way is to do it electronically, with 3 Gyros... you eliminate the complexitiy in mechanics, regardless of helicopter type, FP or CP...

You can do it too! (USA MODE 2 Configuration)

1) Get two cheap basic gyros
2) Instal them so that their axis sensors, sense Pitch (FOR/AFT) and Roll, so they compensate when the helicopter becomes unstable in cyclic, 1 gyro, per axis.
All tail controlled electric 4-6 channel helicopters already have the tail on a gyro circuit, so no need to do the tail, unless you start out completely with a full "separates" system.
3) Connect the FOR/AFT and Roll servos respectively to the gyros
4) Plug the gyros to the the Receiver CH1 (Roll) , CH2 (FOR/AFT)

Give it a shot! Let me know what you think!
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Old Sep 07, 2008, 06:31 AM
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The 53 (53-1 w/ alu head) is a coaxial, I don't think the rotor head will work?
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Old Sep 07, 2008, 03:26 PM
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MIA swash plate standoff

Hi i moved the links on the swash plate from the outer hole to the closer hole. the MIA swash plate standoff is too long now any body done a fix for this.

Also before i moved the links closer i still found the standoff caused the swash plate to be too stiff anybody had this before. thanks for help

Anybody changed the circlip in the rotor head (V2 metal) any tips on how to do i cant seem to get the little bu!@*er on the rotorhead shaft. Thanks
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Old Sep 07, 2008, 05:37 PM
Prefectionist
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Selling mine : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920681
make an offer
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Old Sep 08, 2008, 03:46 PM
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More Tips: Swashplate and Rotor Head

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbusanga
Hi i moved the links on the swash plate from the outer hole to the closer hole. the MIA swash plate standoff is too long now any body done a fix for this.

Also before i moved the links closer i still found the standoff caused the swash plate to be too stiff anybody had this before. thanks for help

Anybody changed the circlip in the rotor head (V2 metal) any tips on how to do i cant seem to get the little bu!@*er on the rotorhead shaft. Thanks
Swashplate, links with MIA Standoff Shaft Collar

You can loosen up or tighten the links from the servos to the swashplate to take up any play or binding, but you should try to be exact, the MIA standoof collars are supplied with 3 small o-rings to allow for this adjustment.

Moving the links from the outer holes to the inner most closest holes on the upper part of the swashplate will expand the vertical distance from the upper links to the upper part of the swahplate, thus in essence, lowering the swahplate down, so this maybe why you are thinking the standoff is too long. Leave the links on the outer holes. You want as precice of a fit on all the links without binding, if it is too loose, use an o-ring on the upper and under side of the standoff if too tight remove the upper o-ring. If still too tight, check you upper swashpplate links as I just described. You should also have the links from the bottom of the swashplate to the servos as parallel as possible while the swashplate is horizontal.


Rotor Head C-clips and workarounds to make the head more precise


The stock 4#3 B rotor head C-clips require extreme care in handling and are a bit tricky to install, that is just the nature of working with tiny helicopter parts. If you loose the c-clips you may need to do what I did on mine ( my heli came with only one C-clip) and use small plastic washers found on the inside of endbells of an N20 motor (Typically used for micro helis tail rotor drives), to make one up and adjust the tightness of the rotor head "Damping", this would be the distance between the C clip and the o-rings on the 4#3B rotor head.

Handling these c-clips requires a small precise set of tweezers and installing them using a magnifying glass, so you have more precision in view and in what you are doing. Patience! here.

To make a c-clip from a used N20 motor endbell:

1) Carefully take appart the N20 Motor, these have a 1 mm shaft and thus the washers and bronze bearings! have an ID of 1mm also, this is perfect for the 1mm rotor head axles on the 4#3B and make perfect washers or C-clips.

2) Take the plastic washer and with a fresh Exacto blade (careful while working with these hobby tools) cut a v-narrow section to make the c clip, Bingo! you got a nice C clip. The other option is buy the C-Clips and keep them handy in a bin, for when you need them.

I just happen to have a good supply of N20 motors that have passed away, but I keep them for the useful parts in them, most people throw them away! DON'T. Just think all the cool little parts in them you are throwing away that you could use for your 4#3 or similar projects.
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; Sep 08, 2008 at 03:52 PM.
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Old Sep 10, 2008, 05:09 AM
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Joined Jul 2008
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MIA Standoff Adjustment

Hi Mario,

thanks for excellent info (i am in process of assembling MIA carbon frame)
i left the fly bar links in the closer hole (in effect lowering swashplate) then i removed the 2 thinner o rings from the rotor head and put them above the MIA standoff with your original 'fatter' o ring below standoff. i then used your 2 fatter o rings (originally above standoff) for the rotor head and discarded (saved) the C clips....voila seems to work perfectly...correct tension on swash and rotor head seems to be ok

let me know if you forsee any problems with this setup...thanks

on another note whilst assembling carbon frame using landing gear struts that come with 4 white spacers (can we get them in black please) between battery holder and main frame ...i stupidly split a couple of the spacers trying to get the screws in (late night should have known better) can i get some replacement spacers or what do you suggest (i live in Africa so no LHS) i have Ca them and they seem fine for now.

is it possible to use a longer screw (instead of the one longer and one shorter) to fit right thru main frame ,a carbon tube (instead of white spacers) , battery plate and the struts and use nut to tighten under struts...just a thought ..keep up the good work looking forward to more of your ideas..cheers
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Old Sep 10, 2008, 06:51 AM
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Central California Coast
Joined May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbusanga
is it possible to use a longer screw (instead of the one longer and one shorter) to fit right thru main frame ,a carbon tube (instead of white spacers) , battery plate and the struts and use nut to tighten under struts...just a thought ..keep up the good work looking forward to more of your ideas..cheers
Mario now has a Landing Gear Hardware Kit which includes aluminum spacers longer flat head screws and nuts.
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Old Sep 10, 2008, 07:48 PM
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Joined Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Hammer
Mario now has a Landing Gear Hardware Kit which includes aluminum spacers longer flat head screws and nuts.
yes i have this kit ..but screws are not long enough to go through the MIA landing "tuff" struts as well ...they are just long enough to fit the battery plate to the main frame after chamfering main frame.

if you fit this kit you have to use the G10 (or carbon) landing struts. i was wondering if possible to get longer screws to go thru tuff struts a s well...also instead of the aluminium spacers you can use the original carbon boom cut into spacer size fits over screws nicely ..looks neat and light
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Old Sep 14, 2008, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbusanga
Hi Mario,

thanks for excellent info (i am in process of assembling MIA carbon frame)
i left the fly bar links in the closer hole (in effect lowering swashplate) then i removed the 2 thinner o rings from the rotor head and put them above the MIA standoff with your original 'fatter' o ring below standoff. i then used your 2 fatter o rings (originally above standoff) for the rotor head and discarded (saved) the C clips....voila seems to work perfectly...correct tension on swash and rotor head seems to be ok

let me know if you forsee any problems with this setup...thanks

on another note whilst assembling carbon frame using landing gear struts that come with 4 white spacers (can we get them in black please) between battery holder and main frame ...i stupidly split a couple of the spacers trying to get the screws in (late night should have known better) can i get some replacement spacers or what do you suggest (i live in Africa so no LHS) i have Ca them and they seem fine for now.

is it possible to use a longer screw (instead of the one longer and one shorter) to fit right thru main frame ,a carbon tube (instead of white spacers) , battery plate and the struts and use nut to tighten under struts...just a thought ..keep up the good work looking forward to more of your ideas..cheers

Thank You, and yes, the MIA Site has various kits to make assembling the MIA TUFF LG to original stock 4#3 frame, as well as MIA Upgrade frames.

Suggest, study the configuration you want, then select the hardware and kits accordingly. All the MIA Upgrade kit options were done to provide means to make the stock frame more robust and more attractive and work with the various brushless motor convertions better.

The aluminum spacer upgrade adds a little more weight but that would be the way to go, if you want to use the single bolt through screw and nut.
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Old Sep 19, 2008, 03:52 PM
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MIA 4#3 Collective Pitch Options

This is a preliminary look at things to come.
Using Walkera 4#3 Mechanics and a CP head that is to come out soon.
Blended all with MIA Upgrades for this awesome new helicopter look.
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Old Sep 19, 2008, 04:40 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Gt Lon
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
This is a preliminary look at things to come.
Using Walkera 4#3 Mechanics and a CP head that is to come out soon.
Blended all with MIA Upgrades for this awesome new helicopter look.
Looks great, glad you kept the carbon canopy theme.
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Old Sep 19, 2008, 06:54 PM
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USA, CA, Monrovia
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
This is a preliminary look at things to come.
Using Walkera 4#3 Mechanics and a CP head that is to come out soon.
Blended all with MIA Upgrades for this awesome new helicopter look.
This will be a cp 4#3? Sorry, not much experience with cps
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Last edited by tonyastro; Sep 19, 2008 at 07:17 PM.
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