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Old Jul 29, 2008, 09:34 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Hammer
I've found thin works the best.
I like zap a gap--which is a thicker ca

mk
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Old Jul 29, 2008, 09:50 AM
Micro Helicopter Electrician
1Hammer's Avatar
Central California Coast
Joined May 2008
2,672 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
I like zap a gap--which is a thicker ca

mk
I've used thicker CA on the CF frames and found it doesn't bond as well as the thin. With the slightly textured surface of the CF, the thinner CA wicks into the joint and make a very secure bond. I'd say almost as strong as the material itself.

Just my 2.
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Old Jul 29, 2008, 11:39 AM
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Joined Jun 2006
1,421 Posts
Finaly! I got a break! CA TIP!

just to be brief because I am still operating under a tight schedule, and lots orf work still ahead, you can read details on the other post reagarding "Is Mario still with us"

The CA I have found to work best, is the one featured in my assembly videos ZAP A Gap, the green bottle, it is also one of the preferred CA glues for bonding composites. Some people have sucess with other brands, thinner viscosity CA's work very well too, but I don't recommend such, if it is your first time assembling a frame or a wood model, because of the faster, and almost intantaneous curing time, typical of thinner CA on a porous material. This really does not allow for any adjustment.

G10 and Carbon is not really porous, as balsa, but because the frames are assembled in such a way that you butt up one rough edge (Cut) of the material wich is more absorbent than the other, flat shinny, you get a nice bond.

Also thinner CA will sort of chemically etch the suruface of the fiberglass G10 or Carbon plate and allow for a much stronger bond, expecially if you let it cure normally, whcih is pretty fast, really.

This is just a tip and not a hard rule, you may find your own ways of bonding materials with other types of adheasives, but CA is the preferred one.

Has anyone used Gorilla Glue, I hear people talk about it with a sort of popularity, but have not had the time to personally investigate its best application.
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Old Jul 29, 2008, 11:59 AM
Registered User
Toronto Canada
Joined Dec 2002
5,487 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Has anyone used Gorilla Glue, I hear people talk about it with a sort of popularity but have not had the time to personally investigate its best application.
Gorilla Glue (which I believe is a Polyurethane glue, there are other brands) has a significant advantage in some applications.

If mixed with a bit of water, it expands into a foam, which will fill large gaps and harden in about 2 hours.

It is more flexible than CA when hardened and for this reason I use it to repair all my foam airplanes.

It has a yellowish hue which gets darker with age and is not as cosmetically pleasing as CA.

I have used it to repair broken heli mainframes where the tailboom attaches.

CA probably would have done the same job, but the fact that Gorilla Glue expands had some advantages.
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Old Jul 29, 2008, 01:35 PM
Heli Addict & Not Ashamed
Cathedral City, CA (Near Palm Springs)
Joined Feb 2008
159 Posts
well the time has come... after moving up to the big birds, (trex450, trex600e) i have decided to sell my MIA full brushless 2s 4#3. Details and pics are here...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=899228
if you have any questions pm me. good luck with all the new and inventive ways to mod this baby!
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Old Jul 29, 2008, 04:53 PM
Micro-Heli-Concepts
jasonjetski's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
4,984 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martyn McKinney
Gorilla Glue (which I believe is a Polyurethane glue, there are other brands) has a significant advantage in some applications.

If mixed with a bit of water, it expands into a foam, which will fill large gaps and harden in about 2 hours.

It is more flexible than CA when hardened and for this reason I use it to repair all my foam airplanes.

It has a yellowish hue which gets darker with age and is not as cosmetically pleasing as CA.

I have used it to repair broken heli mainframes where the tailboom attaches.

CA probably would have done the same job, but the fact that Gorilla Glue expands had some advantages.
I have used a polyurethane glue called Purbond when I was building jetboats.
Simply wipe the surface to glue with a damp rag and that helps the glue to expand as it cures.Great for sloppy joints in wood work.
Bad if you let it get on your hands.It will stain your hands a black colour and stay that colour for days.
Jason
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Old Jul 31, 2008, 11:37 AM
uh oh...
ian_ryeng's Avatar
Newmarket Ont. CA
Joined May 2008
113 Posts
I have a few questions that i hope you all can help me out with. I bought a v1 4#3 since i am learning heli and it was much cheaper then the v2's but in retrospect i find myself wishing i had bought v2 now.

What mods/upgrades/improvements can be made to the v1 to improve the motor life. Can it be swapped with the v2 motor and main gear? Would they be relatively compatable if paired with v2 blades? I have seen on the chinese jade site that they sell 'upgrade kits' to convert v1 to v2 but have also heard that these are not compatable parts elsewhere.

Can you tell i am a little confused and unsure about my purchase? lol.


**My main concern is the expected 10 flights/motor. What can be done to improve this and/or convert or replace the stock with a better brushed motor?**


Thank you all in advance for your help!
Ian
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Old Jul 31, 2008, 10:12 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ian_ryeng
I have a few questions that i hope you all can help me out with. I bought a v1 4#3 since i am learning heli and it was much cheaper then the v2's but in retrospect i find myself wishing i had bought v2 now.

What mods/upgrades/improvements can be made to the v1 to improve the motor life. Can it be swapped with the v2 motor and main gear? Would they be relatively compatable if paired with v2 blades? I have seen on the chinese jade site that they sell 'upgrade kits' to convert v1 to v2 but have also heard that these are not compatable parts elsewhere.

Can you tell i am a little confused and unsure about my purchase? lol.


**My main concern is the expected 10 flights/motor. What can be done to improve this and/or convert or replace the stock with a better brushed motor?**


Thank you all in advance for your help!
Ian
wont matter which version-same motors

I have always had good luck with my motors-v1 and v2

I only do 5 minute flights then let it cool the same

most have lasted 100 plus flights for me

mk
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Old Aug 01, 2008, 10:23 PM
Ginger or MaryAnn ??
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United States, TX, Garland
Joined May 2005
3,346 Posts
I just got the 4#3 FM version,and right from start it has flown perfect!I have been flying helis a while,so it has not seen any crashes yet,and in my house,the worse that would be is a bounce off carpet... John at www.rchobbyhelicopter.com sold me mine,and I got it in 2 days...that was wicked shipping!It has 15 full flights on it now,and before I ever flew it I checked things like gear lash,ect.Things were setup dang near perfect out of box... But I fear my main motor might be going south allready,flight times dropped down to just a few minutes after flight 15.I only flew 1 battery at a time,then let it cool down a while before I flew other pack.Is that about life of motor,or did I get maybee a rare weak motor?
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Old Aug 01, 2008, 11:58 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fh64_lucky
I just got the 4#3 FM version,and right from start it has flown perfect!I have been flying helis a while,so it has not seen any crashes yet,and in my house,the worse that would be is a bounce off carpet... John at www.rchobbyhelicopter.com sold me mine,and I got it in 2 days...that was wicked shipping!It has 15 full flights on it now,and before I ever flew it I checked things like gear lash,ect.Things were setup dang near perfect out of box... But I fear my main motor might be going south allready,flight times dropped down to just a few minutes after flight 15.I only flew 1 battery at a time,then let it cool down a while before I flew other pack.Is that about life of motor,or did I get maybee a rare weak motor?
probably motor-but I found looser mesh than expected keeps my motors cooler

mk
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Old Aug 02, 2008, 05:29 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
there are three versions of 4#3 motors.
v1 short can no holes, next came short can and two holes, now i have tall can 4#3 motors. so there were three versions from start to present.
-johnw
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Old Aug 03, 2008, 11:40 AM
Micro Helicopter Electrician
1Hammer's Avatar
Central California Coast
Joined May 2008
2,672 Posts
After messing with the rubber bands to attach the batteries to my G-10 frame, I played around with some ideas to use the stock battery frame on the G-10 frame last night and this is what I came up with.

I used a stock 4#3v1 battery frame. I trimmed the forward horizontal mounting tabs off, just where they attaches to the vertical forward supports and made a small gusset plate out of G-10 material and CA glued it to the two remaining vertical tabs and the horizontal portion of the top front cord of the battery frame to strengthen it.

I trimmed the rear horizontal mounting plate off where the small strengthening gusset from the vertical portion of the rear top cord ends on the rear horizontal mounting surface and made two small tabs out of G-10 material and CA glued them to vertical portion of the rear top cord on each side spaced so they would line up with the bottom plate of the G-10 frame for support.

I trimmed the middle top horizontal cord of the battery cage just outside of the mounting screw holes which leaves a small horizontal inward facing mounting tab that I CA glued to the bottom horizontal part of the front TUFF Strut just outside of the mounting screws.

This makes a five point mounting system that is very strong. It is hard to get good pics but I took a few to hopefully give a better idea of how it came out.







To keep the batteries in the proper place I just used some light weight foam packing material and taped it to the batteries to keep them firmly in place to assure proper balance of the chopper. I did this with both the stock and the 500 mAh battery John is selling.





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Old Aug 03, 2008, 06:22 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Nice Job!!
-johnw
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Old Aug 03, 2008, 07:48 PM
Ginger or MaryAnn ??
fh64_lucky's Avatar
United States, TX, Garland
Joined May 2005
3,346 Posts
I cleaned my motor,and it has been working just fine,allthough I ordered some extra motors from John for down the road...
I have only 1 question about heli,I pick it up from flybar,and it "seems" to balance perfect from that.Battery is in stock position right under mainshaft.When I slow piro,it does not want to spin on shaft axis,seems tail heavy.I dont see how to move battery up,as it will not fit under canopy....or will it?What if anything did you guys do to balance yours(without adding any extra weight)?
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Old Aug 03, 2008, 08:11 PM
Micro Helicopter Electrician
1Hammer's Avatar
Central California Coast
Joined May 2008
2,672 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fh64_lucky
I cleaned my motor,and it has been working just fine,allthough I ordered some extra motors from John for down the road...
I have only 1 question about heli,I pick it up from flybar,and it "seems" to balance perfect from that.Battery is in stock position right under mainshaft.When I slow piro,it does not want to spin on shaft axis,seems tail heavy.I dont see how to move battery up,as it will not fit under canopy....or will it?What if anything did you guys do to balance yours(without adding any extra weight)?
I think you should be posting here Walkera 4#3 a+b. This is a thread for MIA frame upgrades.
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Last edited by 1Hammer; Aug 03, 2008 at 08:27 PM.
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