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Old Jun 19, 2008, 12:16 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdog83
i used a piece of antenna rod for a tail boom, and a stiff metal wire for the flybar and wow what a stable heli!

the biggest difference i noticed was with the stiffer metal tail boom. not only do i not have to keep replacing tail booms, i now have a much more stable heli!!!

has anyone broken the frame of the heli from an antenna rod tail boom?

it seems too stong for the plastic...but is it ever sweet!

jdog
I suppose it is possible- but not real likely I think

depends how you crash, I suppose

did you need to mod yours?

many diameter of antenna out there- do you know what tx yours if from(or company)?
I am using a slightly smaller diameter one to save weight and so I can pressure fit it-used liquid electric tape and dipped to make seal
still very strong!
I use magnet wire for my t. motor wire so no problem running it through

mk
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Old Jun 19, 2008, 12:49 AM
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fretman's Avatar
United States, CA, Lake Forest
Joined Dec 2007
1,029 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdog83
i used a piece of antenna rod for a tail boom, and a stiff metal wire for the flybar and wow what a stable heli!

the biggest difference i noticed was with the stiffer metal tail boom. not only do i not have to keep replacing tail booms, i now have a much more stable heli!!!

has anyone broken the frame of the heli from an antenna rod tail boom?

it seems too stong for the plastic...but is it ever sweet!

jdog
With enough crashing the boom mount on the frame will eventually crack. ask me how I know?

I tied the boom back on with cotton thread down the boom about an inch and ca'ed it. that one never broke. one downside is you're adding weight.

Then I moved everthing over to the MIA frame and never thought of the boom again.
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Old Jun 19, 2008, 01:08 AM
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MarioIArguello's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
1,421 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Hammer
I have a shopping cart full of things for the 4#3 including a G-10 ridged frame which I'm intending to build with all 4#3B 2.4ghz parts. How can I be sure I receive the newer frame that works with the 4#3B servos and main gear when I place my order?

Thanks again, John
John, all current MIA 4#3 frames (double servo holes) shipping are compatible with the Walkera 4#3B version, as well as, backwards compatible, with the original Walkera 4#3 and 4#3A.
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Old Jun 19, 2008, 02:07 PM
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Nottingham UK
Joined Jan 2007
288 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Hi Ross,


I personally like the Carbon Flex with the cool flex struts but I don't crash land as often as a beginner pilot so this is the way I would go if I was looking from the outside into the upgrades at my site. I would also go with an "Edge" canopy or the "Phantom Carbon Pattern" one, because they were designed for the MIA frames, specifically and they give the helicopter a unique personality. These frames also provide improved flight characteristic by nature of their design.

I would recommend getting the MIA TUFF Ultra-Miniature LG, as a retrofit to the MIA frames for the 4#3's or as a direct retrofit to the stock 4#3's, any of them. This particular LG was made avaialble, in response to people requesting a more durable one. This is also one of my favorite items, because of its ultra durability and utility, but for looks, I like the carbon struts that come with the Carbon frames. Some folks like the Rigid ones, I do too but these may be a bit to rigid for beginner pilots.

The Preset Deluxe Flybar is an excellent upgrade, these really increase the stability of the rotor head and you will feel the difference right away. I would also add the matching anodized shaft collar-swashplate standoff, this part keeps the swashplate from moving up and down. You can do this with a couple spacers made from plastic tubing really easy, but the alu parts have a preset height and makes install a snap, these also add to the aesthetics of the whole helicopter by complementing the red rotor head parts of the 4#3B.

There is also a brand new training gear, this follows in the tradition of the MIA TUFF LG so this one is calle the MIA TUFF Training gear - Palm Size helis, it has been specifically developed for palm size helis such as the 4#3, there is also one for the 52# pictures of these new items will be at my site this week end.

Get the 500mah battery that John carries , also these are very nice batteries. John has also done some brushless setups and he has the motors to do so. I have done custom brushless setups, as well, but I don't sell the motors. John carries MIA upgrades as well so if you want to order all in one shot, John can also set you up with MIA upgrades. We can also help you via my site. Thanks.

Thanks Mario, i will take you recomendation on board and get the preset deluxe flybar , collar and tuff struts , i will also buy a new frame and canopy and some batteries from john ,
Look forward to having a MIA 4#3b
Ross
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Old Jun 19, 2008, 07:01 PM
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sideburn's Avatar
USA, CA, Cardiff-by-the-Sea
Joined Nov 2005
1,924 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Picofly,

Take a look at my earlier post, the one with the pictures of the canopies on the digital scale. The MIA Edge canopies (any color that is on my site) are lighter than the stock 4#3B canopies. Even the MIA PHantom Canopies are lighter than the Stock 4#3B one, so whcih ever you chose should keep your 4#3B lighter. If you go brushless and direct drive I recommend the MIA frames.
I'm looking for an alternative to the stock canopy as well because they break too easy.

So, your Phantom canopy will fit right onto the stock 4#3B without any modifications?

Is it stronger?

Do you have any pics of it on a stock 4#3B or 4#3 ?
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Old Jun 19, 2008, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sideburn
I'm looking for an alternative to the stock canopy as well because they break too easy.

So, your Phantom canopy will fit right onto the stock 4#3B without any modifications?

Is it stronger?

Do you have any pics of it on a stock 4#3B or 4#3 ?
Yes the Edge or Phantom canopies will fit the stock 4#3s, just drill the mounting hole for the canopy support bar accordingly. Note on the 4#3B, the stock frame has mounting provisions for a secondary canopy mounting bar at the front of the motor plate. So if you want to use the front mounting, the canopy will install like on the following picture. I trimmed the canopy underside, slightly, to clear the MIA TUFF struts, which are mounted directly to the 4#3B plastic frame. This is one of various LG and Canopy mounting options available with MIA parts.
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Old Jun 19, 2008, 08:25 PM
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mudville
Joined Nov 2002
954 Posts
Mario,

Great stuff... now for the wooden blades...


SteveH
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Last edited by shoutchen; Jun 19, 2008 at 10:18 PM.
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Old Jun 19, 2008, 10:52 PM
Micro Helicopter Electrician
1Hammer's Avatar
Central California Coast
Joined May 2008
2,671 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
The following MIA upgrade part kits have been added to our site.

* De-Luxe Flybar Stabilization kit
* Main Shaft Collar - Swashplate Standoff Kit
* TUFF(tm) Training Gear -Palm-Size Helicopter

See attached pictures for explanation and benefits each kit provides your 4#3.
Mario, I just completed my order. Very cool, I'm looking forward to much fun with the new and improved parts!

Thanks, John
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Old Jun 21, 2008, 12:39 PM
I Like Deraring
jdog83's Avatar
Canada, ON, Guelph
Joined Jan 2008
1,006 Posts
dollar store

just get a tv antenna from the dollar store buddy!!! none of this expensive tx equipment!!!


much better with this mod, less frustrating too, less finicky too....and not much more weight, in fact i don't even think it moved my c of g...

does anyone know if the tail motor pulsates because the rotors and/or flybar are out of balance? cause that what it seems like to me...

please advise

jdog
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 03:18 PM
Put a Quark in it!
nexgen's Avatar
USA, MN, Brainerd
Joined Feb 2008
1,130 Posts
So I am running into a recurring problem with performance on my G-10 setup. I seem to be running through bearings like crazy. the little white block doesn't hold a good seat for the bearings anymore, they pop out quite often. I can see inside the block where the outside of the bearing slips, it is creating a black area where they are slipping. I am trying to find a good way to fix this without gluing the bearings in, as I have tried that before, but not enough, and they still slip, too much and I glue the bearing . Any suggestions?
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 03:22 PM
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Kelley's Avatar
Goodyear, AZ
Joined Jan 2003
376 Posts
Mario,

Is the TUFF landing gear for the Walkera frame still available? I don't see it on the site any more
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 03:52 PM
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Joined Jun 2006
1,421 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nexgen
So I am running into a recurring problem with performance on my G-10 setup. I seem to be running through bearings like crazy. the little white block doesn't hold a good seat for the bearings anymore, they pop out quite often. I can see inside the block where the outside of the bearing slips, it is creating a black area where they are slipping. I am trying to find a good way to fix this without gluing the bearings in, as I have tried that before, but not enough, and they still slip, too much and I glue the bearing . Any suggestions?
Remove the bearing and smear a bit of white Elmers glue aroung the white block let it dry completely, this should create some tension for the bearing then reseat the bearing make sure the bearing sits square and flush. THe blocks normally have some tension so when the bearings are installed they should have a press fit. Unless the bearing is has locked with the shaft this wil overpower the press fit creating what you described also if the bearing is too loose you will see the black ring around the white blocks. Contack cemement wil work also since it dries to a rubbery surface and should lock the outer surface of the bearing in place. Follow the same install procedure make sure the bearing sits square. Alternately, you can smear a thin coat of contact cement on both the outer metal part of the bearing and then to the inside of the white block let dry then gently press fit.

This is not required with new installations as there is enough tension on the block bearing pockets to hold the bearings in place.
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Old Jun 23, 2008, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelley
Mario,

Is the TUFF landing gear for the Walkera frame still available? I don't see it on the site any more
Yes it is there.
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Old Jun 24, 2008, 12:06 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
tuff skids

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelley
Mario,

Is the TUFF landing gear for the Walkera frame still available? I don't see it on the site any more
they are at www.rchobbyhelicopter.com
at a discount!
-johnw
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