The Durometer of the material used in the damping rotor head o-ring can make or break the helicopter's performance.

Too soft of durometer will yield a rotor head that flops a lot and makes control of helicopter more difficult.

Too hard of durometer will introduce a too tight of rotor head and vibrations will appear in the rotor head. For tiny Helicopters, such as the 4#3
it is preferable to have damping, on the rotor head, on the softer side, but not too soft.

Size of O-Rings is important as you want as much of a perfect match, as possible, of the O-Ring ID to the Rotor Axle's OD and the O-Ring OD to the Head's ID O-ring pockets.

O-Rings come in various rubbery materials. Best to experiment until you have the right "damping tension" on the rotor head so that you get smooth and precise rotor head stability and control.

Keep in mind that this is only one area, of the complex rotor head mechanical system, that plays a part in the stability and control of the helicopter performance. The other areas are in the flybar, tip weights, paddles size, how high the rotor sits in relationship to the weight under the belly, it is important also to remove as much slack as possible in all the mechanics that provide control to the helicopter, thus attaining a much more precise controllable and flying machine.

No I would never order from ehirobo. I'm gonna hold off giving names till they respond to my email with a resolution.

Anyone experience a shimmy when flying the 4#3b usually happens when transitioning from forward flight to a stop.

Also wondering if anyone has an idea how many amps the heli uses to power everything up?

Originally Posted by whilrybird

No I would never order from ehirobo. I'm gonna hold off giving names till they respond to my email with a resolution.

Anyone experience a shimmy when flying the 4#3b usually happens when transitioning from forward flight to a stop.

Also wondering if anyone has an idea how many amps the heli uses to power everything up?

I don’t know why you are so against Ehirobo. I’ve ordered from them before including 4#3B and they ship within 24 hours and respond within a few hours to any questions I had.

Originally Posted by zenchal26

do you have the o-rings and main motors in stock also?

I have the 001 O-rings from Granger and 4-3B V2 Motors in stock but just a few left.
-johnw

Hi mario , my 4#3b flys very well stock , but im dying to have a go at one of your frames , so the question is which setup have you found the best ?
I was thinking g10 frame rigid , preset deluxe flybar and a canopy
Is there anything else you would add to this list ?
Also have you tryed a 4#3b brushless setup yet ? using your upgrades
Cheers Ross

Does a MIA Edge cannopy fit to standard 4#3B frame? I would like to save some weight with the cannopy. I have understood that MIA cannopies are 1.2g lighter than 4#3B the standard one. At this time I am not willing to uppgrade to a whole MIA frame. I want to keep my 4#3B as small and lightweight as possible.

Originally Posted by pristo82

Hi mario , my 4#3b flys very well stock , but im dying to have a go at one of your frames , so the question is which setup have you found the best ?
I was thinking g10 frame rigid , preset deluxe flybar and a canopy
Is there anything else you would add to this list ?
Also have you tryed a 4#3b brushless setup yet ? using your upgrades
Cheers Ross

Hi Ross,


I personally like the Carbon Flex with the cool flex struts but I don't crash land as often as a beginner pilot so this is the way I would go if I was looking from the outside into the upgrades at my site. I would also go with an "Edge" canopy or the "Phantom Carbon Pattern" one, because they were designed for the MIA frames, specifically and they give the helicopter a unique personality. These frames also provide improved flight characteristic by nature of their design.

I would recommend getting the MIA TUFF Ultra-Miniature LG, as a retrofit to the MIA frames for the 4#3's or as a direct retrofit to the stock 4#3's, any of them. This particular LG was made avaialble, in response to people requesting a more durable one. This is also one of my favorite items, because of its ultra durability and utility, but for looks, I like the carbon struts that come with the Carbon frames. Some folks like the Rigid ones, I do too but these may be a bit to rigid for beginner pilots.

The Preset Deluxe Flybar is an excellent upgrade, these really increase the stability of the rotor head and you will feel the difference right away. I would also add the matching anodized shaft collar-swashplate standoff, this part keeps the swashplate from moving up and down. You can do this with a couple spacers made from plastic tubing really easy, but the alu parts have a preset height and makes install a snap, these also add to the aesthetics of the whole helicopter by complementing the red rotor head parts of the 4#3B.

There is also a brand new training gear, this follows in the tradition of the MIA TUFF LG so this one is calle the MIA TUFF Training gear - Palm Size helis, it has been specifically developed for palm size helis such as the 4#3, there is also one for the 52# pictures of these new items will be at my site this week end.

Get the 500mah battery that John carries , also these are very nice batteries. John has also done some brushless setups and he has the motors to do so. I have done custom brushless setups, as well, but I don't sell the motors. John carries MIA upgrades as well so if you want to order all in one shot, John can also set you up with MIA upgrades. We can also help you via my site. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Picofly

Does a MIA Edge cannopy fit to standard 4#3B frame? I would like to save some weight with the cannopy. I have understood that MIA cannopies are 1.2g lighter than 4#3B the standard one. At this time I am not willing to uppgrade to a whole MIA frame. I want to keep my 4#3B as small and lightweight as possible.

Picofly,

Take a look at my earlier post, the one with the pictures of the canopies on the digital scale. The MIA Edge canopies (any color that is on my site) are lighter than the stock 4#3B canopies. Even the MIA PHantom Canopies are lighter than the Stock 4#3B one, so whcih ever you chose should keep your 4#3B lighter. If you go brushless and direct drive I recommend the MIA frames.

Originally Posted by MarioIArguello

There is also a brand new training gear, this follows in the tradition of the MIA TUFF LG so this one is calle the MIA TUFF Training gear - Palm Size helis, it has been specifically developed for palm size helis such as the 4#3

Mario, I was going to place an order tomorrow however I'm wanting to wait for the new training gear, will I be able to purchase the MIA TUFF Training gear by adding to my shopping cart this weekend?

Thanks, John

Hey Mario,

I just received one of your latest MIA frames for the 4#3, but it must be one of your old stock. It doesn't fit my 4#3b stuff on it. can you send me the 'new' one? I already have a couple of the old ones for the original 4#3.

Also how do you fit the TUFF landing gear? It gets in the way of mounting the battery on the heli.

Originally Posted by 1Hammer

Mario, I was going to place an order tomorrow however I'm wanting to wait for the new training gear, will I be able to purchase the MIA TUFF Training gear by adding to my shopping cart this weekend?

Thanks, John

Yes. But wait till you see the item on my site so you know what the traiing gear looks like and you can simply click on the shopping cart button.

Originally Posted by fretman

Hey Mario,

I just received one of your latest MIA frames for the 4#3, but it must be one of your old stock. It doesn't fit my 4#3b stuff on it. can you send me the 'new' one? I already have a couple of the old ones for the original 4#3.

Also how do you fit the TUFF landing gear? It gets in the way of mounting the battery on the heli.

Send me your full name and address via email to MIADSGNS@COX.NET and I will take care of it.

The TUFF LG mounts in various ways. I will take a picture and post it later on so that you can chose the mounting method that works with your particular setup. If you are simply attaching the TUFF Struts from under the frame, use a piece of foam sheet to make up the different of space so that the battery clears the stuts.

Originally Posted by MarioIArguello

Send me your full name and address via email to MIADSGNS@COX.NET and I will take care of it.

The TUFF LG mounts in various ways. I will take a picture and post it later on so that you can chose the mounting method that works with your particular setup. If you are simply attaching the TUFF Struts from under the frame, use a piece of foam sheet to make up the different of space so that the battery clears the stuts.

Thanks! you should have an email from me already.

i used a piece of antenna rod for a tail boom, and a stiff metal wire for the flybar and wow what a stable heli!

the biggest difference i noticed was with the stiffer metal tail boom. not only do i not have to keep replacing tail booms, i now have a much more stable heli!!!

has anyone broken the frame of the heli from an antenna rod tail boom?

it seems too stong for the plastic...but is it ever sweet!

jdog

Originally Posted by fretman

Hey Mario,

I just received one of your latest MIA frames for the 4#3, but it must be one of your old stock. It doesn't fit my 4#3b stuff on it. can you send me the 'new' one? I already have a couple of the old ones for the original 4#3

I have a shopping cart full of things for the 4#3 including a G-10 ridged frame which I'm intending to build with all 4#3B 2.4ghz parts. How can I be sure I receive the newer frame that works with the 4#3B servos and main gear when I place my order?

Thanks again, John