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Old Jun 08, 2008, 09:11 PM
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MarioIArguello's Avatar
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Fun with decal and the color bodies for the 4#3's

There is a great deal of fun in flying these tiny little 4#3 wonders, but I have a weakness for color and design options so I also spend time decorating helicopter canopies, which is also part of the fun in this, our hobby.

I wanted to have the option to chose various decal conficurations that would work with the same body shape, and so, the "standard, wild and hot rod" decal sheets provide me that option.

To obtain the desired look, I simply cuit the decal art shapes individually and carefully place them over a clean canopy. Here are some samples of what can be achieved with the various canopy colors and decals.

One of my favorite helicopter look, is the Honey Bee King helicopter, and the decal that is part of the "standard decal set" gives me exactly this look with the "edge" canopy. I used an orange colored "edge" canopy for the base, so I didn't have to paint the whole canopy, only apply the decals for the windows , the air cooling mesh detail, logos and numbers. See what you guys think.
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Old Jun 08, 2008, 09:19 PM
Registered User
Portland, Oregon
Joined Jan 2008
453 Posts
I find that the "white styrene" plastic pieces seperate fairly easily by putting a little prying pressure between the CF pieces.

I have had to reglue my Full BL frame setups a couple of times in a few spots, after after about 20 flights. I have tried all the CA's and excelerator. I just don't like the bonding characteristics of the CF and Styrene. I also have my other cf frame done w/ the ABS grey colored stuff. I thought it looked great w/ the darker material, but it doesn't hold w/ the CA's as well. So...

Mario,
I like way the hardware kit looks on the frame WAY better. I know that would hold better too. I reccomend providing that option in the frame kits instead, IMO. Otherwise, in your frame build videos, or site, etc. You should inform one to possibly add more CA to the areas that are stressed easily. It doesn't hurt, and it will need it.

Sorry if this has already been discussed.

Thanks, Carl
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Old Jun 09, 2008, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReaLyze
I find that the "white styrene" plastic pieces seperate fairly easily by putting a little prying pressure between the CF pieces.

I have had to reglue my Full BL frame setups a couple of times in a few spots, after after about 20 flights. I have tried all the CA's and excelerator. I just don't like the bonding characteristics of the CF and Styrene. I also have my other cf frame done w/ the ABS grey colored stuff. I thought it looked great w/ the darker material, but it doesn't hold w/ the CA's as well. So...

Mario,
I like way the hardware kit looks on the frame WAY better. I know that would hold better too. I reccomend providing that option in the frame kits instead, IMO. Otherwise, in your frame build videos, or site, etc. You should inform one to possibly add more CA to the areas that are stressed easily. It doesn't hurt, and it will need it.

Sorry if this has already been discussed.

Thanks, Carl
Carl, in regards to the hardware kit and how this look much better on the g10 and carbon frames, I agree with you and I think most people would too .

Those little bolt holes on all the g10 and carbon frames which may seeminly appear as lightening holes, were done for this type of hardware install options. So the option has always been there. I will provide the hardware option in future kits.

The white plastic blocks do have the benefit of gluing easily to G10 or carbon provided the carbon or G10 parts are clean, this is the trick to obtaining a good glue joint. I recommend cleaning the parts with a bit of soapy water rinsing and drying them completely, before any gluing is done, the plastic blocks also keep the frames very lightweight, this is the reason they are used and prefered for 4#3 that are stock versions.

The new 4#3Bs have bigger motors and pack a bit more power than some of the original 4#3s, so we can afford to do the frames with miniature hardware, I'd recommend this option for such or custom setups that use the Losi, IPS higher power brushess motors.


I appreciate your suggestions and comments. Thank You.
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Old Jun 09, 2008, 08:54 AM
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Portland, Oregon
Joined Jan 2008
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Mario,

Well thats good to hear about the hardware kits in the future. I don't know, I have cleaned the CF and plastic parts before, and I have still had glue joints come apart. I use the medium viscosity CA, it the best I think, but still....

I guess I have a problem w/ glueing a Nice Looking CF ($70) frame. If one DOES have to reglue any of their spots on the frame, it starts to give the frame an used look. If too, you have to replace say, the block that holds the boom to the frame? You have to get those glue joints apart, and then reglue it back together, again it starts to take away from its clean look. I KNOW there are some that will break that part that holds the boom in.So again...

In the design, where screws can be used (weight permitted), they should be.
As for me (full bl), w/ the extra weight that a few screws would add (not much), it would be justified.

I look forward to upgrades in the designs. Your a smart man Mario.

Thanks, Carl
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Old Jun 09, 2008, 04:00 PM
Tri-c Wanna-B...
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Collierville, Tennessee USA
Joined Jun 2008
75 Posts
Hi Mario,

I am brand spanking new to this hobby and will be getting my first honest Heli for father's day... Well we already have it but I can't see it until the kids give it to me. Isn't that some ? So Having found your site only days after discovering the Walkera 4#3 a few months back, I have been looking and drooling over all your available things for a while now. Then last night I found that you had been posting on this site so I came to check it out this morning. With my busy days I have only made it to page 15 and thank goodness your mods aren't poular... I have become a sponge, absorbing all the information being put out there for all the People. Oops got off course...

Restart...

I was wondering what other options you have hidden away. I was talking to a friend who said he remembers you for the rubber heli's?! care to explain?

I love your work so far, and I am sorry to ask, but do you have any plans to create any other canopies? I need to know before I make all my purchases. In specific I was hoping for something like the Caliber 30 Canopy.



I love the air scoop below and think it would be the perfect way to help hide some of the lower items like the battery and antenna.

Also do you have any plans to make something that could be used to store our new MIA conversion kits in? In particular I am asking about a case with pre cut foam since I tend to have problems with children who can disassemble a welded tank in 3.2 seconds while blind folded, and God forbid I wake them up to do it fully cogniscent of what they are doing!

So from someone brand new to this hobby... actually consider this a letter from a new sense (nuisance) of seeing things.

On the other hand will you be making something to strap the blades into place while storing such as can be seen in this stolen pic?



Credit for the above photo and customization are wholy owned by Callie Graphics, and I apologize but needed to use the photo to better explain what I meant. http://www.callie-graphics.com/

In closing I have to some things about your items...

Other than the frames being from flat card stock and not tubing, I am pretty impressed with the overall look of your items. I want to have as stable flying a Micro-heli as possible for now while I am learning and I want to enjoy it and make it enjoyable for my family to watch as this expensive excursion will be a family venture. Also you state by using his items and making personal upgrades they made 3#4 MIA version into a 3D flyer... In these videos of the Modified Walkera 4#3 with an added Collective Pitch and more powerful motor. youtube 3D Flight pt1 youtube 3D Flight pt2
I wonder if you would be willing to show us some close up pictures of the modded Heli. Just out of curiosity. I know after what I have read so far that you have the knowledge and ability to make the upgrades, I would just like to see them myself to see how it is done...

I myself think that after all of these "upgrades" you aren't even flying a modified 4#3 anymore but a Hodge-Podge MIA Micro R/C Heli. one that looks really nice, but Still I prefer round tubelike skids on my landing gears, curved skid fronts and a tube tailboom/TR Drive shaft. Sadly I will probably break down and buy all the mods soon enough, but before then I will have mastered the basics and some more advances manuvers of R/C Heli flight and will probably be on my 3rd or 4th Walkera 4#3...
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Old Jun 11, 2008, 06:07 PM
master 4#3
istanbul Türkiye
Joined Jan 2008
958 Posts
hi
i am looking for 2s lipos for use on a modified walkera 4#3 with mia frame even tho i didnt get the frame yet.i need the max width and length of the batt mount on mia frames. can someone please measure the maximum dimensions for a battery that mia frames can accept?
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Old Jun 11, 2008, 06:19 PM
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fretman's Avatar
United States, CA, Lake Forest
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baygenco
hi
i am looking for 2s lipos for use on a modified walkera 4#3 with mia frame even tho i didnt get the frame yet.i need the max width and length of the batt mount on mia frames. can someone please measure the maximum dimensions for a battery that mia frames can accept?
seen these?

http://jonathan9113.1freecart.com/i/...mah-2-cell.htm
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Old Jun 11, 2008, 08:22 PM
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tonyastro's Avatar
USA, CA, Monrovia
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Update

Ok the Upgrades for the 52# Done!

This is a complete package that solves all problems associated with the 52#, in additional to some other improvements I threw in, as I would do, for my own custom helis, so everyone else can have these very same durable, higher performing and attractive custom MIA 52 Upgrades (Phantom Heli) .

The MIA Phantom Sub-Micro Heli (TM) Kit, It is like having a whole new better and higher performing tail motorized, Sub-Micro Helicopter.

Inspired by Walkera 52 (Sub-Micro heli) collective pitch mechanics and blended with MIA Sub-Micro heli design, tough and durable architecture, to provided what could be the ultimate sub-micro helicopter with a motrorized tail end.

It works straight with the Walkera 52 by simply resusing the bearing blocks and mechanics.

Here is what this helicopter package contains:

* New Bolt Down Frame
* New Body
* New Landing Gear
* User Option for Direct and Geared tail, as part of kits.
* New Boom
* Better CG and Hiddend battery
* Has Various motors mountings from IPS, Medusa, 130, 180, 280, Pixie or Gaui Motors or MIA bumble Bee stock 180, will all work with this Complete MIA Phantom(TM) Sub-Micro Helicopter package for the Walkera 52# Helicopter.


All problems that people have had with the 52 breaking lg and frame bending etc etc. solved!. I have done also something that I think some people might like, I am keeping this a little surprise so that everyone interested in this package has something to look forward to. I don't want to give it all away but if you like what I did with the 4#3, you will also like what I have done for the #52.

I will post pictures and update my 52 page by the end of this week.

When do you think you'll upload those instructional videos? I could probably try to figure it out but I have no experience assembling kits. I just want to see them to make sure I am capable of assembling the 52 MIA frame before I purchase anything. Also, when do you think the canopy will come out?
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Old Jun 11, 2008, 08:33 PM
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Portland, Oregon
Joined Jan 2008
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Mario,

Here's a video of your MIA 4#3 CF frame holding up to some minor falls, yet still able to perform its mission. Thanks for the great designs.

Carl
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxXbDyByGAo
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 01:05 AM
master 4#3
istanbul Türkiye
Joined Jan 2008
958 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fretman
yeah i have seen them.
anyway i would like to know the max dimensions of the batt mia frames can accept.
thank you.
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 02:01 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
4-3 batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by baygenco
yeah i have seen them.
anyway i would like to know the max dimensions of the batt mia frames can accept.
thank you.
these work very well 500mah and up to 13min flight times fit all 4-3 battery cages:http://www.rchobbyhelicopter.com/sto...3%20Helicopter
cheers, johnw
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 02:20 AM
master 4#3
istanbul Türkiye
Joined Jan 2008
958 Posts
ok i quit asking for the dimensions.
is it sooooo hard to measure the dimensions rather than giving suggestions.
i know all those batteries.
also i am looking for 2s 7.4volt batteries as i mentioned in my post in english.
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 03:06 AM
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United States, CA, Lake Forest
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baygenco
ok i quit asking for the dimensions.
is it sooooo hard to measure the dimensions rather than giving suggestions.
i know all those batteries.
also i am looking for 2s 7.4volt batteries as i mentioned in my post in english.
probably best to stay close to stock battery dimension of about 24mm... it looks like it might be able to take up to 28mm wide, you have much more playroom as far as the length goes, don't think you need to worry there..
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 03:21 AM
master 4#3
istanbul Türkiye
Joined Jan 2008
958 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fretman
probably best to stay close to stock battery dimension of about 24mm... it looks like it might be able to take up to 28mm wide, you have much more playroom as far as the length goes, don't think you need to worry there..
i came across to some very nice 2s lipos they are very light but are in 50mm length*32mm width (2.1*1.3inches). as far as i understand these wont fit mia frames.
thanks you for your help.
genco.
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 10:33 AM
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Joined Sep 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReaLyze
Mario,

Here's a video of your MIA 4#3 CF frame holding up to some minor falls, yet still able to perform its mission. Thanks for the great designs.

Carl
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxXbDyByGAo
where did you get that lipo monitor
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