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Old May 29, 2008, 05:21 PM
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United States, CA, Lake Forest
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This probably has been mentioned previously.. but what is the weight difference between the g10 and CF 4#3 frames?
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Old May 30, 2008, 01:54 AM
Heli Addict & Not Ashamed
Cathedral City, CA (Near Palm Springs)
Joined Feb 2008
159 Posts
Mario,
I agree with this post!!! I had a very minor crash today and both the C shaped white plastic blocks that connect the main frame and the landing skids together broke at one of the angles. I tried to CA glue the seams so I will see how it holds up tomorrow. I think that they would be more durable if they were a solid piece of material instead of the C shape. Maybe a piece of balsa wood painted black, or something that the CA glue could adhere to. what else could I do to fix this without having to buy a whole new frame just for the blocks?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nexgen
Mario, what do you think about having some small pieces of g-10 that can cover the white blocks to create a kind of frame reinforcement for those blocks. I have found that the best places for reinforcement are the tail mounts on both ends, and the top of the main shaft tube, as some hard crashes will start to split the white block at the top y the upper bearing. I have reinforced mine using scrap g-10 from the plate that originally had the parts (I dont throw anything away ). My thought was that if it was built into the original installation, then it wouldn't have to be done as a repair later, and also if the parts are already sized for their specific application, then it would look better when built.
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Old May 30, 2008, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chez143
Mario,
I agree with this post!!! I had a very minor crash today and both the C shaped white plastic blocks that connect the main frame and the landing skids together broke at one of the angles. I tried to CA glue the seams so I will see how it holds up tomorrow. I think that they would be more durable if they were a solid piece of material instead of the C shape. Maybe a piece of balsa wood painted black, or something that the CA glue could adhere to. what else could I do to fix this without having to buy a whole new frame just for the blocks?
2 Options

but let me address one option and see if this will help.

First of all, the reason for the plastic blocks and C channel is to keep the helicopter lightweight. Balsa block is no good because it will split. Solid plastic is better, but a bit heavier, mounting plastic pegs using the existing holes of the motor and battery plates is another better option and will still keep the helicopter nice and lightweight.

But here is what I did to some of my 4-3's with both the rigid or flex frames.

Note that all the frames come with these four corner premade holes on the battery and motor mounting plates?

they are actually there because on the first frames I did, I used miniature bolts and spacers (See post #13) and therefore, the frame motor and battery plates can be used with spacers and bolts as the second option, if you don't mind using miniature hardware to hold these two plate assemblies together (see attached picture and look closely at the spacers to get an idea how this works. The weight of the frame will go up by the weight of the hardware, but if you are customizing the frames with more powerful motors, this added small weight will not be an issue. If you are flying with the stock motors, the flight time will diminish a bit, this is the tradeoff with this metal hardware option, but you will have an even more robust frame.

I have added both options to my site, in the form of :

1) A crash kit using the same plastic blocks that come with the frame kits
2) Metal hardware Kit as per above description

The TUFF LG and Woodies that some of you requested will be added soon.
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; May 30, 2008 at 05:41 AM.
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Old May 30, 2008, 10:42 AM
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Joined May 2008
26 Posts
Mario could you make some pieces that would allow the use of the Gaui 100/200 variable pitch tail and brushless motor with the walkera 52 frame that you created? Maybe even a shaft driven tail option like on your mia bumble bee.
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Old May 30, 2008, 11:23 AM
Flying RC Heli's since 1977
Joined Dec 2003
103 Posts
[QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
2 Options

but let me address one option and see if this will help.

First of all, the reason for the plastic blocks and C channel is to keep the helicopter lightweight. Balsa block is no good because it will split. Solid plastic is better, but a bit heavier,...

Why not use a U channel cut from Delrin or Nylon, both are cheaply available in black color from plastic suppliers? Glass filled Nylon is also readily available. The weight would be identical to the current parts would be virtually unbreakable from your factory. From the color of the parts in site photos and customer comments Iím -guessing- that itís currently polystyrene or ABS which wonít hold up unless the inside corners are decently radiused to cut down on the chances of stress risers.

Using a better material would hopefully save people from having to buy crash kits.
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Old May 30, 2008, 11:35 AM
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akguanja's Avatar
wasilla, alaska
Joined Sep 2007
495 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
2 Options

but let me address one option and see if this will help.

First of all, the reason for the plastic blocks and C channel is to keep the helicopter lightweight. Balsa block is no good because it will split. Solid plastic is better, but a bit heavier, mounting plastic pegs using the existing holes of the motor and battery plates is another better option and will still keep the helicopter nice and lightweight.

But here is what I did to some of my 4-3's with both the rigid or flex frames.

Note that all the frames come with these four corner premade holes on the battery and motor mounting plates?

they are actually there because on the first frames I did, I used miniature bolts and spacers (See post #13) and therefore, the frame motor and battery plates can be used with spacers and bolts as the second option, if you don't mind using miniature hardware to hold these two plate assemblies together (see attached picture and look closely at the spacers to get an idea how this works. The weight of the frame will go up by the weight of the hardware, but if you are customizing the frames with more powerful motors, this added small weight will not be an issue. If you are flying with the stock motors, the flight time will diminish a bit, this is the tradeoff with this metal hardware option, but you will have an even more robust frame.

I have added both options to my site, in the form of :

1) A crash kit using the same plastic blocks that come with the frame kits
2) Metal hardware Kit as per above description

The TUFF LG and Woodies that some of you requested will be added soon.
mario ive been waiting for you to get those replacement sheets of landing gear includeing the plate they T&G into. ive totally destroyed this first frame ive got from you. i broke the skids and had to wrap the breaks in kevlar/ca. but on a FF nose in i managed to tear the frame apart in a few spots where it was glued.

please let me know when u can get those replacement sheets up. as i will want to order another frame at the same time.

-tre
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Old May 30, 2008, 12:02 PM
Flying RC Heli's since 1977
Joined Dec 2003
103 Posts
Quote:
mario ive been waiting for you to get those replacement sheets of landing gear includeing the plate they T&G into. ive totally destroyed this first frame ive got from you. i broke the skids and had to wrap the breaks in kevlar/ca. but on a FF nose in i managed to tear the frame apart in a few spots where it was glued.

please let me know when u can get those replacement sheets up. as i will want to order another frame at the same time.

-tre
Sorry man, never happy to hear about any crash.

Got stooopid this morning, I piled my brushless 52-1 with stock frame, landing gear and skids head-on and full speed into the side of my neighborís garage, only disintegrated the tail boom (canopy was off). The remains of the boom look like a long hair brush. I was trying to avoid a chain link fence.

Everything else survived just fineÖ Iíll be happy to tell my wife.
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Old May 30, 2008, 03:40 PM
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More Options for various heli assemblies, retrofits and configurations

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone2008
Mario could you make some pieces that would allow the use of the Gaui 100/200 variable pitch tail and brushless motor with the walkera 52 frame that you created? Maybe even a shaft driven tail option like on your mia bumble bee.

Keep checking my site for updates, start at the main page and then go from there to find what you are looking for. I will be adding a page for some of the options you are mentioning so that anyone that wants to do collective with a tail brushless setup can do it with some simple kits.

If you do not find what you are looking for, please email me or PM me.
I just added a couple more things that peole have been asking me about.

Thanks
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Old May 31, 2008, 03:53 AM
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Nottingham UK
Joined Jan 2007
288 Posts
Anyone got any pics of a 4#3b in a new MIA frame ?
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Old Jun 01, 2008, 02:27 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
RcHobbyHelicopter.com Sit is Down!

Just to let everyone know my site is temporarily down. the T1 line coming into the server blew up! so it may take a few days for the repair. everyone can still contact me thru the forum but the business e-mails are also down. I can still process orders while the site is down thru my personal e-mail. Sorry for the inconveience!
thanks you, John W.
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Old Jun 01, 2008, 04:51 PM
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Joined Jun 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pristo82
Anyone got any pics of a 4#3b in a new MIA frame ?

I will have some pics as soon as the latest 4#3B's ordered arrive.
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Old Jun 01, 2008, 06:46 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
I have 4-3B V2's in stock and their parts too I guess I could put one together for the thread??
-johnw
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Old Jun 02, 2008, 01:49 AM
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Nottingham UK
Joined Jan 2007
288 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
I have 4-3B V2's in stock and their parts too I guess I could put one together for the thread??
-johnw
Yeah do it
Just order my 4#3b , should be here by wednesday
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Last edited by pristo82; Jun 02, 2008 at 02:14 AM.
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Old Jun 02, 2008, 06:33 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
4-3b V2

Quote:
Originally Posted by pristo82
Yeah do it
Just order my 4#3b , should be here by wednesday
i'm sure your gonna love it!
btw we're back up and running again!
cheers, johnw
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Old Jun 02, 2008, 11:04 AM
Prefectionist
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Mar 2007
1,311 Posts
John, I asked before, but since your going to be building one for this thread, you will know what it takes now. Could you put an upgrade package together the comes pre-packed with the MIA frames and the V2 drivetrain? Just so those who choose to upgrade know what parts are needed. (exclude the batteries and electronics, but maybe include the motor?)
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