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Old May 28, 2008, 07:15 PM
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Gain Control on the 52#

Quote:
Originally Posted by sideburn
Yeah, I'm not worried about the cyclic as much as I am the rudder. There is no gain control on the rx and the knobs on the TX don't seem to be doing anything at all.

The DIP switch #12 is set to off though. Should this be set to ON?
Because this helicopter is collective pitch and , you can balance the helicopter tail control by adjusting the pitch and throttle curves.

Note: You don't want too much pitch on the main blades, you want head speed, the right amount which is found by trial and error will smooth out any tendencies of the tail being slugish.
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Old May 28, 2008, 07:27 PM
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morgantown, wv
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There is really no reason to leave the stock motor in. You will be changing them after just a few flights and it could freeze up and burn out the main esc in the 4in1. I would have to say that in the right hands it could go inverted with the stock setup but only when it is setup as close to perfect in the stock form as can be. And only within the first minute of flight because it loses power after that. I personally would not try it. Once you go brushless you will wonder why you even put another stock motor in it. You also want to upgrade that tail motor because it wont hold the tail very good with climbouts once you go brushless. And i found the tail holds better if you use the gov mode on the brushless esc. It will have a constant headspeed then.
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Old May 28, 2008, 07:44 PM
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yeah, 2nd flight and I have noticed it loses power pretty quickly.

so with switch 12 on, i set the knobs to zero and the rudder seems to hold ok.
still not quite sure when the V1 vs v2 are doing or where I should set them.

I'll just have to keep messing with it.
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Old May 28, 2008, 07:46 PM
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Well then you need to read the thread on the 52. It explains all the settings and what works best. Start with that and then fine tweek the settings for how you like it.
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Old May 28, 2008, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buster7467
Well then you need to read the thread on the 52. It explains all the settings and what works best. Start with that and then fine tweek the settings for how you like it.
I will look for the regular 52 thread. All I found so far was a brushless conversion thread.

I'm curious how it is storing the gyro/curve settings. Is it storing it in the tx and when you replace the batteries you have to go through it all over again?
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Old May 28, 2008, 08:07 PM
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You might want to send walkera an email on that. I am not sure.
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Old May 28, 2008, 08:58 PM
Flying RC Heli's since 1977
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Cooking nylon or any plastic in your kitchen is not be safe!, plastics give off unsafe and unhealthy fumes when heated to high tempeatures.

Save yourself the trouble and get these MIA TUFF struts and skids kits already made in various sizes to fit your helicopter for only $4.99, let me know what size helicopter you have.
I enjoy making my own parts and I have the education and background to do it. I wouldn't mention anything that was unsafe.
I would suggest you brush up on your polymeric chemistry... and read the RC Groups' rules about advertising in threads.
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Old May 28, 2008, 09:25 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Yes! This was my first choice! because this is how I also made some of my very early Palm Size helicopters like the MIA Mosca pictured below. But given that the 4#3 is pretty light, to begin with, making the LG from the same material as the frame adds a bit of aesthetical continuity.

If you want the miniature MIA TUFF(TM) Struts for the 4#3, I will have these also on my site next week along with the separate LG G10 and Carbon parts that some of you, also enquired about.

fantastic Mario!

am eagerly awaiting

I am very interested in your wood blades I have been watch for,too- especially if you design some v2 ones!

mk
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Old May 28, 2008, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
fantastic Mario!

am eagerly awaiting

I am very interested in your wood blades I have been watch for,too- especially if you design some v2 ones!

mk
I second that... can't wait to try some light, stiff, longer woodies.

I tried some cf'ed blades that are about 10mm longer and loved the way the 4#3 flew.. only thing was that flight time was cut down to about 4 min from 10 min. And the losi was super hot afterwards.
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Old May 29, 2008, 07:09 AM
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Australia, NSW, Blacktown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sideburn
yeah, 2nd flight and I have noticed it loses power pretty quickly.

so with switch 12 on, i set the knobs to zero and the rudder seems to hold ok.
still not quite sure when the V1 vs v2 are doing or where I should set them.

I'll just have to keep messing with it.
I always flew mine with DIP switch 10 turned on and I was always playing with the dials to adjust max pitch and rpm at which I got it.
Jason
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Old May 29, 2008, 12:24 PM
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Joined Feb 2008
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Mario, can a guy order a set of the 4#3 TUFF skids without them being listed on your site? Or should I just wait till they are on there.
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Old May 29, 2008, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonjetski
I always flew mine with DIP switch 10 turned on and I was always playing with the dials to adjust max pitch and rpm at which I got it.
Jason
Mine seems to fly well with the PIT lock (DIP 10) v2 set to 0 and V1 set to -40 or so and then i set the Throttle curve (DIP 11) v2 to 100 which gives me maximum headspeed and v1 set to 0 for a linear curve.

so i end up with the throttle stick movements not so sensitive on the blade pitch and a high headspeed.

(stock setup still)
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Old May 29, 2008, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexgen
Mario, can a guy order a set of the 4#3 TUFF skids without them being listed on your site? Or should I just wait till they are on there.
Check my site in a couple days, I am adding more stuff they will be there.
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Old May 29, 2008, 02:54 PM
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Mario, are you still working on the woodies for the 4#3 or are has it been put on the back burner for now?
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Old May 29, 2008, 02:55 PM
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What is the price going to be for the 52 frame?
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