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Old May 28, 2008, 10:13 AM
Heli Addict & Not Ashamed
Cathedral City, CA (Near Palm Springs)
Joined Feb 2008
159 Posts
Mario,
I tried the larger struts on the Gaui 100 and they are just way to big! They stand about 2" to tall for this frame. The tail fin has about 2 1/2" of clearance from the ground and it gave the heli a very weird look. plus i could not get the skids to stay together. they kept popping apart (the skids from the struts). I ended up giving them to a friend. If you have any other skids or frames that you want me to test I would be happy to. I have an Forefox EP100 and a Gaui EP Pro. they are the same but very different!


Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Chez,

Woud this one work better for you? (See attached pics)
I could design a couple of similar side plates for the frame you have, in carbon, and include more rubust MIA TUFF (TM) Struts.

The thinner MIA SUb-Micro heli MIA TUFF struts you have on your heli in the pics, are fine they will take a lot of abuse with no problem, but I thought the larger diameter ones I am showing in the attached pic would look better with the Gaui Frame. Have you tried using the other MIA Piccolo Retrofit LG parts? they are slightly larger diameter and would also do a great job at protecting the heli from har landings, you can also do the same thing you are doing with the smaller struts and use 4 nylon tie wraps for simplicity. Give the MIA Piccolo LG, a try these have the skids struts mounting posts at a distance more in line with the Gaui strut spacing and I think they would work great if you are looking for a heli saver and not so much for spiffy looks. I'd appreciate if you could post a pic of it, let me see how they work out .
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Old May 28, 2008, 12:05 PM
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Technical Note: Heating plastics in your Kitchen Oven.

Quote:
Originally Posted by milwiron
I know this is primarily a forum for dealers to self-promote their products but hereís how you can make your own unbreakable landing gear for sub-micro heliís:

Pneumatic and hydraulic suppliers sell semi-rigid Polyamide (most people call it Nylon) tubing in many sizes. McMaster Carr is an on-line dealer.

3/32 to 3/16Ē O.D. Nylon tubing will cover most sub-micro heliís depending on the weight. Get as heavy a wall thickness as you can, it won't add much weight but will help the tubing hold its' shape.

Take a piece of music wire or uncoated gas welding rod that will fit in the tubing and bend it into the shape you want for the skids or gear, leave it a little long so you have some wire to grab onto with pliers later. You donít want a tight fit between the wire and tubing, loose is good. Deburr the ends of the wire.

Slip your wire-form into the tubing and bake it in an oven or toaster-oven on a cookie sheet at 280 degrees F. for about 30 minutes. Depending on your oven you may have to play with the temp., up or down.

Pull it out of the oven and let sit for a while. Pull the wire-form out with pliers and the tubing will hold itsí shape. At first the tubing will be very rigid but will soften a bit as it re-absorbs some moisture from the air.

You can pin and super glue the gear to the skids or use Nylon miniature Nylon/Polyamide hose connectors with super glue to hold everything together.

Larger than sub-micro machines will need stiffer gear than Nylon tubing will provide.

Cooking nylon or any plastic in your kitchen is not be safe!, plastics give off unsafe and unhealthy fumes when heated to high tempeatures.

Save yourself the trouble and get these MIA TUFF struts and skids kits already made in various sizes to fit your helicopter for only $4.99, let me know what size helicopter you have.
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Old May 28, 2008, 12:08 PM
Heli Addict & Not Ashamed
Cathedral City, CA (Near Palm Springs)
Joined Feb 2008
159 Posts
Mario how many different sizes do you have? I like the ones you are using for the 52# but it would be nice if there was a little more on the back end of the struts. mine is kind of tail heavy and a little more length (about 1/2" - 3/4") would make it more stable when its sitting on the ground.
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Old May 28, 2008, 12:25 PM
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morgantown, wv
Joined Mar 2004
2,439 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
The MIA Phantom frame was designed primarily to resolve the following two major problems with the Walkera 52#:

- Stock aluminum frame bending
- Weak LG that break on hard landings.

The thicker boom tail rotor mounting and stylish looks, and optional canopy are added perks you get when you go with this upgrade. You will not require a complete rebuild with this MIA upgrade, because you will simply not break the LG or bend the frame, as on the stock product.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hWcxk7ifPs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1IvivFwju0

Yes but with the stock frame if it gets bent in a crash you can work it back into shape pretty easy. That is a pretty big claim, that you wont bend the frame. Well probably not. But i guarantee that not long after they are available, We will hear people say that it broke the frame in a couple different places in a relatively small crash. I have done more damage in what i thought was a easy crash and then i have had crashes where i thought the heli was trashed but come to find out it was not even hurt. I can see a big weak spot in the frame just frame looking at the pics of it. the little platform you have made that the 4in1 sits on. Lets be realistic here. Not all crashes land on the skids. I bet that it will snap between the motor and 4in1. I will buy one of these frame probably before i even get another 52 just to put together and check it in my own hands. Anyone that has truly flown the 52 and crash it will know what kind of damage will be done and where at on the frame.
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Old May 28, 2008, 01:15 PM
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MIA TUFF (TM) Struts for ALL Types or RC models.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chez143
Mario how many different sizes do you have? I like the ones you are using for the 52# but it would be nice if there was a little more on the back end of the struts. mine is kind of tail heavy and a little more length (about 1/2" - 3/4") would make it more stable when its sitting on the ground.

Thanks Chez143,

I have all types of sizes, but I can select the correct one if I had the helicopter in front of me.

If you don't see a retrofit for your particular helicopter setup, and you have a spare frame for the heli you want to retrofit it with a MIA LG, email me, or send me the frame and original struts and I will send them back with the right size MIA LG Struts Upgrade and adapters , if required. I will not charge you for the LG but I do ask that you send me for return postage $8.40 Priority Mail Signature Confirmation required and Insured.

Since before 2000 when I discovered that using the MIA TUFF (TM) was my prefered way of solving LG problems with various helis, and RC airplane models as well, I have made one for every popular helicopter that has come out since and some more, for others which are not that well known or heard of like the EOLO 400 (not in the picture) and the MIA Giant Cessna (Thread here in RCG)

Because of the reasons ecplained in my video, I employ the MIA TUFF Struts /Skids on eveyone of my helis, own design ,also on those helis I like and that I buy from other companies for my personal enjoyment. Especially if the heli is a very nice one, and whenever I don't want to risk ruining the helicopter in a hard landing. For instance, on a blinged out Honey Bee King and on the Blade and Hummingbird ALU versions (The one with the hot pink alu parts), now on the 52#.
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; May 28, 2008 at 02:10 PM.
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Old May 28, 2008, 01:25 PM
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USA, MN, Brainerd
Joined Feb 2008
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So do you uave a TUFF skid set that will fit the 4#3 G-10 or carbon frame? (please say yes )
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Old May 28, 2008, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexgen
So do you uave a TUFF skid set that will fit the 4#3 G-10 or carbon frame? (please say yes )

Yes! This was my first choice! because this is how I also made some of my very early Palm Size helicopters like the MIA Mosca pictured below. But given that the 4#3 is pretty light, to begin with, making the LG from the same material as the frame adds a bit of aesthetical continuity.

If you want the miniature MIA TUFF(TM) Struts for the 4#3, I will have these also on my site next week along with the separate LG G10 and Carbon parts that some of you, also enquired about.
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Old May 28, 2008, 02:18 PM
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USA, MN, Brainerd
Joined Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Yes! This was my first choice! because this is how I also made some of my very early Palm Size helicopters like the MIA Mosca pictured below. But given that the 4#3 is pretty light, to begin with, making the LG from the same material as the frame adds a bit of aesthetical continuity.

If you want the miniature MIA TUFF(TM) Struts for the 4#3, I will have these also on my site next week along with the separate LG G10 and Carbon parts that some of you, also enquired about.

GREAT!! I will have to get some of those little TUFF skids from you. I got my brother into the 4#3, and got him into your G-10 Rigid frame right off the bat. He has already broken the LG (noobs ), and the TUFF gear will work great for him. Admittedly, I have broken mine too and will benefit from them as well.
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Old May 28, 2008, 02:21 PM
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USA, MN, Brainerd
Joined Feb 2008
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Mario, what do you think about having some small pieces of g-10 that can cover the white blocks to create a kind of frame reinforcement for those blocks. I have found that the best places for reinforcement are the tail mounts on both ends, and the top of the main shaft tube, as some hard crashes will start to split the white block at the top y the upper bearing. I have reinforced mine using scrap g-10 from the plate that originally had the parts (I dont throw anything away ). My thought was that if it was built into the original installation, then it wouldn't have to be done as a repair later, and also if the parts are already sized for their specific application, then it would look better when built.
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Old May 28, 2008, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexgen
Mario, what do you think about having some small pieces of g-10 that can cover the white blocks to create a kind of frame reinforcement for those blocks. I have found that the best places for reinforcement are the tail mounts on both ends, and the top of the main shaft tube, as some hard crashes will start to split the white block at the top y the upper bearing. I have reinforced mine using scrap g-10 from the plate that originally had the parts (I dont throw anything away ). My thought was that if it was built into the original installation, then it wouldn't have to be done as a repair later, and also if the parts are already sized for their specific application, then it would look better when built.
Yes, I thnk its good, the next MIA 4#3 frames will have this already incorporated ito the kits. Keep the eye on my site updates.
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Old May 28, 2008, 06:27 PM
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USA, CA, Cardiff-by-the-Sea
Joined Nov 2005
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I just got my 52# and took it for a first flight.

It needs some trimming though I have the right stick trims all the way forward and to the right for cyclic and it still needs adjusting and the rudder trim is also maxed out to the right and i still have to give it a lot of right stick to get the rudder to hold. Not sure what the knobs do yet.

I have everything I need to go brushless, but stock out of the box it seems very capable of going inverted. Is this not true?

I have 2 spare stock motors so I figured I would fly it until i burn through them and then switch to brushless.

When I do the brushless mod do I remove the stock battery holder or just velcro the larger battery to the bottom of it?

Also the throttle seems very touchy.. the slightest bit of throttle past mid stick and it wants to jump towards the ceiling. Is this normal?
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Old May 28, 2008, 06:45 PM
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morgantown, wv
Joined Mar 2004
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Yes the 52 is twitchy even in it's stock form. If it needs that much trim adjustments then you need to take the servo arms off and re-center them and maybe adjust the links alittle. Check to see what pitch the main blades have at full throttle. Also check the tail pinion to make sure that it is not to tight against the tail gear. They are RTF out of the box but it will most likely need some adjustments to it.
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Old May 28, 2008, 06:48 PM
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USA, CA, Cardiff-by-the-Sea
Joined Nov 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buster7467
Yes the 52 is twitchy even in it's stock form. If it needs that much trim adjustments then you need to take the servo arms off and re-center them and maybe adjust the links alittle. Check to see what pitch the main blades have at full throttle. Also check the tail pinion to make sure that it is not to tight against the tail gear. They are RTF out of the box but it will most likely need some adjustments to it.
Yeah, I'm not worried about the cyclic as much as I am the rudder. There is no gain control on the rx and the knobs on the TX don't seem to be doing anything at all.

The DIP switch #12 is set to off though. Should this be set to ON?
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Old May 28, 2008, 06:51 PM
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morgantown, wv
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yes, for when you want to adjust the knobs of the radio. Once is set it i turn the switch to off. I never needed to leave it in the on position. Why would you not be worried about the cyclic. The heli once setup perfectly fly's very good. You really need to go over the setup of it and get everything dead on.
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Old May 28, 2008, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buster7467
yes, for when you want to adjust the knobs of the radio. Once is set it i turn the switch to off. I never needed to leave it in the on position. Why would you not be worried about the cyclic. The heli once setup perfectly fly's very good. You really need to go over the setup of it and get everything dead on.
I mean I'm not worried about cyclic because I know I can get that set right by adjusting the linkage on the swash.

I'm more concerned about the rudder/expo on the throttle because I don't know how to get that adjusted correctly yet. But if setting the dip switch to 12
gives me control of the gyro with those knobs on the TX then thats a good start. The manual is very vague about how to get things right.

I assume I also want the blades to be flat at mid stick.
I have 2 other collective pitch helis (belt cp, HBcp2) so I am familiar with how to get them setup, just not too familiar with walkera yet.

So once I do get it setup and flying well, does it perform well as stock as far as being able to go inverted?

I have a medusa motor, larger 3S batteries, Pheanix10 esc etc to go brushless but if I can go inverted as stock I would like to just leave it that way for a while.
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