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Old May 16, 2008, 04:56 AM
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Air Vaca's Avatar
Arivaca,Arizona
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This is probably the wrong thread to post this in but... I crashed my #52 the other day ,causing me to need a replacement tail boom. Parts come, lo and behold, right part #,doesn't fit. Wrong O.D.,wrong length. Just a heads up.
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Old May 16, 2008, 05:55 AM
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Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
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The new tail boom is 4.5mm thick and the old boom is 3.5mm thick from memory.
If you have the thicker boom now as the new good one.I recamend you buy the Fixing set HM-052-Z-12 (Larger hole for the boom) and the tail holder HM-052-Z-18 but mention the larger size when ordering.
I have read somewhere that someone just drilled out the holes as requires,but they drilled on an angle and it showed in the photos.
Mario might have a better answer.
The thinner boom breaks even if you just pull an angry face at it,so use the thicker one.
Jason
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Old May 16, 2008, 10:27 AM
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Arivaca,Arizona
Joined May 2008
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Thanx, I think I'll have to get the fix kit. If the boom is 4.5mm, the boom holder can't be more than 5.5mm O.D I don't think there will be enough material left to secure the boom. Thanks again, Bill
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Old May 16, 2008, 10:58 AM
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guys, i jsut started to assemble my g10 frame using the pink zap CA glue and the damn thing wont glue up. it runs like water and stays like water. what am i doing wrong? so far all i have managed to do is glue my fingers together.
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Old May 16, 2008, 11:29 AM
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Kelley's Avatar
Goodyear, AZ
Joined Jan 2003
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I'm building my G10 Frame and wondering if its better to go DD or geared on the tail. I read/heard somewhere that geared is better and to just drill out the tail.

Thanks...
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Old May 16, 2008, 11:43 AM
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I wanted to stick with geared, but I ended up dd. Initially there wasnt much for tail authority or response, then I shaved about 1-1.5mm off the trailing edges of the tail blade, and WOW. The thing is snappy, and responds as good, if not better than geared tail. I still want to setup another one as geared to check out the difference for myself, but I will be staying DD on the tail.
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Old May 16, 2008, 11:50 AM
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stevel48, if you have any CA "kicker" that will help the glue set. I used "Gorilla Glue" super glue(3 ish bucks at hardware store) and it holds super strong.
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Old May 16, 2008, 12:37 PM
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CA GLUES - Uses of the Right One for the Specific Application

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevel48
guys, i jsut started to assemble my g10 frame using the pink zap CA glue and the damn thing wont glue up. it runs like water and stays like water. what am i doing wrong? so far all i have managed to do is glue my fingers together.
Some CA glues run like water, these are too thin, Medium Viscosity CA Glue is typically used for most modeling assemblies balsa wood plastic or fiberglass G10 and Carbon. Thin CAs are great for balsa models where a quick and clean joint is desired, balsa soaks up CA glue fast, therefore these thin CA glues do not "run", as on plastic or composite part models.

Medium CA is a better choice for assembling the MIA G10 frames since this type of CA glue is a little bit thicker, but you should use care so that the glue does not run. Use a fresh plastic tip, as I do, in my videos, or sometimes modelers use a piece of small inside diameter (1/64 or 1/32 inc) teflon tubing press fit to the tip of the bottle of CA glue (Available in some hobby stores) to spread a line or bead of CA glue nice, even and clean.

You should always clean the G10, Carbon and plastic parts before application with a mild soapy water, rinse and pat dry with a paper towel. This promotes better adheasion of glue.

Try not to touch the parts in areas where glue is to be applied, with your fingers, since our hands and fingers contain natural oils and these will leave an oily film on the parts and in some cases, glue may not take easily in these contaminated areas.

Sometimes if the CA gLue is old and has been sitting in a shelf for a long time it may have lost its "adhesion" capacity, try to use a fresh bottle or use an CA Accelerator, Kicker or Zapper spray to speed up proccess. Go over my videos, I show the glue, accelerator I use, and the processof gluing, in them.
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Old May 16, 2008, 02:02 PM
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fretman's Avatar
United States, CA, Lake Forest
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelley
I'm building my G10 Frame and wondering if its better to go DD or geared on the tail. I read/heard somewhere that geared is better and to just drill out the tail.

Thanks...
I tried DD and didn't care for it at all... not only was it lacking tail authority but the tail motor was very hot after flying one pack.

I switched to geared and all is well.. so much tail that I have to trim the rudder the opposite way now. and the motor doesn't even get warm after fyling a couple batteries.
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Old May 16, 2008, 02:14 PM
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United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fretman
I tried DD and didn't care for it at all... not only was it lacking tail authority but the tail motor was very hot after flying one pack.

I switched to geared and all is well.. so much tail that I have to trim the rudder the opposite way now. and the motor doesn't even get warm after fyling a couple batteries.

In order for DD to work you need to trim tail rotor. The tiny tail motor can't spin a huge tail rotor.
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Old May 16, 2008, 02:15 PM
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yes trimmed works GREAT. I like it better than geared.
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Old May 16, 2008, 03:01 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevel48
guys, i jsut started to assemble my g10 frame using the pink zap CA glue and the damn thing wont glue up. it runs like water and stays like water.* what am i doing wrong?* so far all i have managed to do is glue my fingers together.
steve use medium CA! And all will be well.-johnw
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Old May 16, 2008, 04:09 PM
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United States, CA, Lake Forest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Almaz
In order for DD to work you need to trim tail rotor. The tiny tail motor can't spin a huge tail rotor.
oh yeah, thats right.. i remember now, thanks for the reminder. I think I'll give that a try.
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Old May 16, 2008, 04:18 PM
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Biel, Switzerland
Joined Aug 2006
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[QUOTE=MarioIArguello]I've had quite a few request for international shipping.

If you are still interested, please EMAIL ME DIRECT MIADSGNS@COX.NET, THE ITEMS YOU WISH SHIPPED to and will send you a total.

Allow me a comment - thank you.

I did send MarioIArguello not only an email directly to the above mentioned adress, I did also send three other e-mails to the adress on the MIA website before (during the last few weeks). Never I got any answer...

I did send several emails and wrote posts to johnIn2SonAZ selling MIA products. There I got always kind replies but now I am still waiting already several weeks for a final decision about shipping international.

I do not know if MIA Designs really is interested in shipping internationally but I can tell you at least me I am no longer interested in doing business this way.

Posting this here after emails are not answered - and maybe not read...?
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Old May 16, 2008, 04:22 PM
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USA, MN, Brainerd
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Proxy Ordering for international

I know that he originally said he would be willing to try that, but I know that There are many more hoops that a guy would would have to jump through to ship international, perhaps you could route your orders through someone in the states.

I'd be willing to do it, but you'd have to figure out what the shipping cost is from me to you, and then I'd need the cash and order request up front.

Id order form Mario, and when I receive it, I'd resend to you (or others that want them). I'd also want to ask for a meager 5.00 to cover my time, and offset paypal fees.


It may be smart to team up with others on here, and order in bulk. Then you could distribute over there to the others on this group.

Let me know (I hope I'm not opening a can of worms here, just trying to help, as I have had quality help from overseas, and want to return the favor to my heli brethren.)
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Last edited by nexgen; May 16, 2008 at 04:27 PM.
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