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Old May 12, 2008, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
just to spark something with mario. here is my full brushless conversion on my Micron V2.
Hi John, What did you have in mind?
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Old May 12, 2008, 06:19 AM
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170 Posts
Hi guys,

I have got a JR PCM9XII Radio, will 4#3 RX work with my radio or any other non walkera radio?

Cheers

Duddy
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Old May 12, 2008, 06:23 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
MIA Micron frames

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Hi John, What did you have in mind?
Mario,
just doing a sweet MIA frame for the micron is all.
-johnw
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Old May 12, 2008, 07:22 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nexgen
speaking of ESC's and 4 in 1's, I have a little quandry with my heli as well.

I think I saw someone else on this thread (or the regular 4#3 thread) with the same problem, but I dot remember if there was a solution.

My heli will fly fine for a bout 2-4 minutes, and then lose power so much that it will only lift up about 2-3 inches, bobbing around in ground effect. If I let it sit for a bit, and then punch it, it will stay up, but the same cycle happens again. The longer I let it sit, the longer it stays up after the rest.


Now I just spent the whole day rebuilding my heli with ALL NEW parts (including my second spiffy G-10 rigid skid frame, had to plug it since this IS the G-10 thread after all) except the 4 in 1. I tediously balanced and tuned the it out of it until I was blue in the face, so I know it is not tracking, gearing, motors, bearings, etc... I also have than's LiGlow lipo alarm/light kit installed so I know it is not a battery problem because I would see that in the light output.

I should let you know that at one time I landed the heli in my dogs water dish. I immediately grabbed the thing, and pulled the plug. I let it dry and was off flying again the next day. the problem only surfaced recently.
It started happening about 10-15 flights ago, and it seems to come and go.

so what does the collective 4#3 conscience have to say.
that is exactly what is happening to mine!- pretty sure it is the fet getting warm too-play with your gear mesh-it helps some-but problem still persists for me

mk
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Old May 12, 2008, 11:34 AM
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USA, MN, Brainerd
Joined Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Could be battery or controller.

How many lights are on the helicopter and where are you taking the current for those lights alarm from? Direct through the battery? As a mod to the controller? or using a Voltage/current regulator? Does this happen with a new fully charged battery also?

When your electronics lands on water, and if not fully dried, you should have blow dry it not let it air dry, with time, corrosion may build up on the contacts of the components, possibly rendering some areas in your controller faulty.

The light kit is from Than's website, here is a snippet about the specs on the V1-1S setup that I have installed on my heli: "Weight around 1.8g. Average current draw: 25mA at 4.2v; 18mA at 3.6v (with 2 nav lights and running strobes - only one out of 3 strobe is lit at a time)" The kit is setup inline with the battery connector on the 4 in 1 as than describes on his site: "you will also need to parallelly connect the two power wires of the light kits with your battery connector wires."

I just tried a brand new fully charged battery too.

I also did the paper setup for the gear mesh when I setup the heli last night, so I know that is ok.

I bet it's the fet too, I should have dried the 4 in 1 as quickly as possible when I got the darn thing wet,

guess I'll need a new 4 in one, DRAT! (had to use that word, havent seen that one for a while)

Does anyone have an fm rx (35.120 is my freq) laying around that they want to get rid of for a good deal?
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Old May 12, 2008, 12:50 PM
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Nottingham UK
Joined Jan 2007
288 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
No, but I did some for the V1, a while back, because the Micron V1 was very similar to this helicopter, that I did before the micron came out. So the frame and blades were interchangeable. Why the V2?
Because i got one
I was going to sell it as im getting a 4#3b soon , but i may keep both so i thought id see if you made any cool upgrades for it !
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Old May 12, 2008, 01:02 PM
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Toronto Canada
Joined Dec 2002
5,366 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nexgen
My heli will fly fine for a bout 2-4 minutes, and then lose power so much that it will only lift up about 2-3 inches, bobbing around in ground effect.
From time to time my heli flight time has decreased significantly.

I have been able to revive it by spraying the swash, mainshaft and motor with WD-40 and now consistently get from 9 to 9 1/2 minutes.

I don't know how much has gotten into the motor, but my experience with these small motors is that brush debris can add considerable drag and will diminish the flight time.

There is the possibility that the lubricant is removing some of the brush debris, but I will have to wait until I get a new motor before I take this one apart to do some type of fault analysis.

Has anyone taken apart a non-functioning motor?
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Old May 12, 2008, 01:34 PM
Put a Quark in it!
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USA, MN, Brainerd
Joined Feb 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martyn McKinney
From time to time my heli flight time has decreased significantly.

I have been able to revive it by spraying the swash, mainshaft and motor with WD-40 and now consistently get from 9 to 9 1/2 minutes.

I don't know how much has gotten into the motor, but my experience with these small motors is that brush debris can add considerable drag and will diminish the flight time.

There is the possibility that the lubricant is removing some of the brush debris, but I will have to wait until I get a new motor before I take this one apart to do some type of fault analysis.

Has anyone taken apart a non-functioning motor?
Maybe I'll try some lube, but all the components are new, so I dont know if it will help.
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Old May 12, 2008, 07:36 PM
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MOTOR HEAT - How to cope with such and keep your Heli Running longer.

Some things I wanted to add which I have not seeing anyone try yet to keep the stock 4#3 motors cool.

1) Use the MIA Moto-Cool-er custom heat sink or any heat sink that you like with a Heat Sink Compound!B]
This helps remove some of the heat quicker than when you use a heat sink dry (metal to metal), this improves heat transfer.

You can get heat sink compound in small tubes at Radio Shack. It normally comes in a white paste. Read the instructions that come with the heat sink compound.

2) Give the Motors' metal can only a light coat of Black paint used for Cooking Grills.
This also improves heat dissipation.

3) Do not block the motor with cables and wires, whenever possible.
use a canopy that has top and side vents or openings, like the MIA Edge or Phantom canopies.

4) Double check your gear mesh as I described previously.

5) Although you can essentially, fly continuosly, on a full battery charge, DO NOT fly continuosly for the full battery capacity.
This will definetly wear out the motor faster.

I normally take small breaks in between a single flight, with one battery charge. I am still flying the stock 4#3 since I got it and have not had to replace the motor yet, or have had problems with MOSFETS getting hot, but I also set up my motors, as per the above recommendations.

Give it a shot.
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; May 12, 2008 at 07:48 PM.
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Old May 12, 2008, 10:55 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
diminishing flight times

mario -your advice on keeping the stock motor cool is good advice

but my problem was occuring with the steves losi conversion-think it might be a connection badly soldered?-as esc gets warmer throttle power declines

stopping for even 15 secs restores it to full power-for a minute or too

no problems on first 50-60 flights on stock motor

mk
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Old May 12, 2008, 11:38 PM
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POOR SOLDER JOINTS? - How it afffects your electronics current flow and power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
mario -your advice on keeping the stock motor cool is good advice

but my problem was occuring with the steves losi conversion-think it might be a connection badly soldered?-as esc gets warmer throttle power declines

stopping for even 15 secs restores it to full power-for a minute or too

no problems on first 50-60 flights on stock motor

mk
It is posible, make sure all your solder joints are nice and shiny clean, a poor solder or cold solder joint will rob power. Soldering is almost like making a water or air pipe connection if there is a leak in the pipe you will not get efficient air or water flow, same thing happens in a cold solder joint except with electron flow (Current).
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; May 12, 2008 at 11:49 PM.
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Old May 14, 2008, 03:53 PM
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Upgrades for 5-6 and 52 Coming!

Web site updated.
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Old May 14, 2008, 11:00 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Mario-do you have 5g6??

if you do, if you extend that shape, of 5g6 blades, (toward root) 1/2-3/4'", you have v2 blades

what would be your quote on manufacturing a cf or wood set?

can give you exact dimensions(or send you a 2 piece one!) to copy

but these need an upgrade much more than v1-if you jump on this you could corner good market for awhile

my opinion is these will be standard soon-this 4#3b is about as revolutionary as the original! this is like the invention of the 4 ch fp-anyone can fly- a few of your mods and it will be bulletproof!


you can pm me if you wish

mk

p.s.-I love your boom in new frames-good mod would be adapter/boom for fitting larger boom to stock frame- should be cheap,easy, and lucrative!-can think of a few ways to manufacture cheap and quick!
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Old May 14, 2008, 11:31 PM
Heli Addict & Not Ashamed
Cathedral City, CA (Near Palm Springs)
Joined Feb 2008
159 Posts
Mario,

I have a MIA G10 flex frame on my 4#3 and I love it! I also have have a Gaui Ep 100 Pro. The landing gear on this heli sucks! Its very brittle... I was wondering if you have any plans on making some upgrades for this little guy? I would buy new skids in a heartbeat! If you want i can send you some details on the dimensions for some skids. I think this would help out a lot of people on the EP100 thread!
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Old May 14, 2008, 11:55 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
52# with MIA frames and brushless

Quote:
Originally Posted by chez143
Mario,

I have a MIA G10 flex frame on my 4#3 and I love it! I also have have a Gaui Ep 100 Pro. The landing gear on this heli sucks! Its very brittle... I was wondering if you have any plans on making some upgrades for this little guy? I would buy new skids in a heartbeat! If you want i can send you some details on the dimensions for some skids. I think this would help out a lot of people on the EP100 thread!
Mario is making frames for the walkera 52#. i hear you can use the ep100 metal head on these helis. so buy a 52# convert the head and it is very easy to go brushless on them. i have some in stock too. i will be building one with marios frames and a medusa afterburner BL.
-johnw
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