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Old May 08, 2008, 03:18 PM
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MarioIArguello's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
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Tail Boon Fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicohayes
hello how are friends, i'm learning to fly this little machine, is beutiful, but hard to fly, maybe because is my first 4ch helicopter, i jump from a mosquito syma jaja.
I'm having a problem with my tail motor, the tail motor holder is having a little of free play on the tail boom, how i can fix it?
thank you.
The free play is probably the little screw that has eaten away the carbon surface on the boom.

If the boom does not have any "hairline" fractures you can still use the boon by rotatig it 90 degress so the screw grabs on fresh boom surface , althouh this might be just a temp fix best to do the following:

if the screws have crushed the boom, and the boom has "hairline fractures", how do you know you have this? The boom will tend to twist very easy.

you can:

1) remove the complete boom
2) spread a 1/32" wide line of CA glue, as long as the boom, over wax paper
3) roll the boom over the CA line to seal the hairlie fracture (s)
4) clean the CA over the boom with a bit of wax paper to smooth it out

this will also thicken the boom a bit and you might simply be able to insert it
without the retainer boom screws, only with a bit of pressure fit.
Look into my videos,here in past posts and at my site under Walkera Upgrades for the MIA G10 Frames as another option for better stronger boom.
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Old May 08, 2008, 03:21 PM
Trying To Takeoff
salat's Avatar
Novosibirsk, Siberia
Joined Dec 2006
2,418 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by akguanja


hey guys i found these lipos for a super deal. they are 10c 500mah with the same deminsions as the ones john has not sure if they are the exact same but should fit on the 4#3 well, there tenergy brand which is a great brand of lipo.

best thing is they are only 6 bucks and a flat rate shipping of 3.99 no matter how many u order. from www.ritehobby.com also in may you can use the 20% discount code of RH20

i just picked up 2 of them for under 14 bucks shipped after the 20% off.

-tre
This is not great deal.
Get this http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=4360 - $2.59
Or you can get best battery money can buy - Polyquest 3s 400mAh for $19
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6509
and split it into 3 separate cells
Kostya
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Old May 08, 2008, 05:48 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Kostya,
HXT 450mAh 12-20C Single Cell
Dimentions: 50x30x3.5mm
Real Tested Weight: 12.5g
this is too wide for the 4#3.
24mm max. width for the 4#3
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Old May 08, 2008, 08:40 PM
internet rebel
akguanja's Avatar
wasilla, alaska
Joined Sep 2007
490 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by salat
This is not great deal.
Get this http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=4360 - $2.59
Or you can get best battery money can buy - Polyquest 3s 400mAh for $19
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6509
and split it into 3 separate cells
Kostya
ya i buy those single cells from hc for building indoor foamie packs etc. but the deminsions are too big for these frames. thats the cheapest i could find single cells that size.

but i think the polyquest option might be a good idea. althoe im not sure about the stock brushed setup being able to handle anything above the stock battery. not much experiance in the brushed field.

-tre
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Old May 08, 2008, 09:05 PM
Put a Quark in it!
nexgen's Avatar
USA, MN, Brainerd
Joined Feb 2008
1,130 Posts
I think I still like the 1S packs that johnIn2SonAZ found, they seem just right, and the price is right too!
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Old May 08, 2008, 10:42 PM
Hang on, turbulence ahead
Heli Hacker's Avatar
St. Louis
Joined Dec 2007
534 Posts
Mario! Oh my god! I just saw your photos of your "Dart" design! That has got to be the sexiest thing I have ever seen! I am not even sure if I care that it flies or not, it looks good just sitting there.
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Old May 08, 2008, 11:22 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
v2 on mia g10 frame

Hi!

ok -at flight 150 or so on my v2-2/3 of it bl-I crashed!

No, I dont mean crashed, I mean CRASHED!!!!- fff straight down on a parking lot-from about 30ft up!

shattered the nose of my canopy and busted an already split boom-that is all

(ok-I was lucky as &%&%!!)

so I decided to try v2 in mia g10 with original gearing

servos are too fat!-I am going to have to drill new servo mount holes,so it will have to wait till day off

thought about double sided tape-but throws swash off too much-would have to alter my only set of links too much. will drill holes

Mario- good idea to do servo holes out a touch further-I thinky these servos will become standard for now-much nicer than v1-beefier! Longer wires help too


so flight 150 or so -crashes-180 or so!--Parts broken: 2 blades,1 boom,one canopy

Fun had? Priceless!

mk
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Old May 08, 2008, 11:44 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
1S 500mah

Quote:
Originally Posted by nexgen
I think I still like the 1S packs that johnIn2SonAZ found, they seem just right, and the price is right too!
Do you mean the ones i sell on my site? thanks Nexgen.
i will have some nice goodies for you soon!
cheers, johnw
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Old May 08, 2008, 11:47 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
Hi!

ok -at flight 150 or so on my v2-2/3 of it bl-I crashed!

No, I dont mean crashed, I mean CRASHED!!!!- fff straight down on a parking lot-from about 30ft up!

shattered the nose of my canopy and busted an already split boom-that is all

(ok-I was lucky as &%&%!!)

so I decided to try v2 in mia g10 with original gearing

servos are too fat!-I am going to have to drill new servo mount holes,so it will have to wait till day off

thought about double sided tape-but throws swash off too much-would have to alter my only set of links too much. will drill holes

Mario- good idea to do servo holes out a touch further-I thinky these servos will become standard for now-much nicer than v1-beefier! Longer wires help too


so flight 150 or so -crashes-180 or so!--Parts broken: 2 blades,1 boom,one canopy

Fun had? Priceless!

mk
you can "tack" the servos in place with a drop of CA and they will still be removeable too.
-johnw
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Old May 09, 2008, 12:35 AM
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MarioIArguello's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
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MIA Frames for Walkera helis in general. Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
Hi!

ok -at flight 150 or so on my v2-2/3 of it bl-I crashed!

No, I dont mean crashed, I mean CRASHED!!!!- fff straight down on a parking lot-from about 30ft up!

shattered the nose of my canopy and busted an already split boom-that is all

(ok-I was lucky as &%&%!!)

so I decided to try v2 in mia g10 with original gearing

servos are too fat!-I am going to have to drill new servo mount holes,so it will have to wait till day off

thought about double sided tape-but throws swash off too much-would have to alter my only set of links too much. will drill holes

Mario- good idea to do servo holes out a touch further-I thinky these servos will become standard for now-much nicer than v1-beefier! Longer wires help too


so flight 150 or so -crashes-180 or so!--Parts broken: 2 blades,1 boom,one canopy

Fun had? Priceless!

mk

MK and also otheres reading this...

Ok in effort to keep up with changes in walkera 4#3 models. The latest MIA Frames, (Flex or Rigid, Carbon and G10) have been enhanced for the various servos widths, the main Walkera spur gear on the red metal head 4#3 is also bigger, so to support these changes that Walkera has made on the newer 4#3's, I have included on the MIA Frames:

1) doluble set of holes for servo mounting, frame is a bit wider also due to this
2) have extended the mounting location of the motor, for both stock and brushless Losi or Feigao setups to be used with ALL 4'3 gear ratios, small spurs and larger one like on the metal red head 4#3's!.

Bear in mind that extending the frame a bit forward, will push the stock controller a bit forward also, and so if you use these latest frames with an older 4#3 you may need to raise the controller, similar to the way the Walkera 5#6 controller is raised on a piece of foam so the servo leads reach the controller. If you are doing a total custom set up then you don't need to do this. Besides the multiple servo holes on the MIA frames will also allow the servos to be moved forwrd or backwards to adjust for various servo lengths whcih tend to vary from Walkera heli to heli.

Think of the latest enhancement to the MIA frames, as a one frame fits all! but you still have the choice of G10 Flex, G10 Rigid or the spiffy Carbon Flex.

Although some folks got lucky to get one of a limited run of the metal red 4#3's, I don't think we will be seeing the next run of red metal 4#3's for another month and these new helis are still an unknow. Will they be as good or will they have little quarks to be worked out still.

I highly recommend the stock basic 4#3

So, for starters, that want to get into the action of flying these little Walkera helis. I would strongly recommend that you start with a basic 4#3 FM! model and consider the MIA upgrades for it.

Why FM? because there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, the hobby industry has been using FM For a long time, the 2.4 Ghz offer some nice perks like rubber ducky and short antennas, glitch free reception, amongst other little pluses, but I have heard that the Walkera 2.4 Ghz ones are more doscile and may feel like you are going backwards in performance, if you have already become used to the original FM 4#3's, which to me, are excellent lille helis , with plenty power, fast servos and decent controllers.
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; May 09, 2008 at 11:54 PM.
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Old May 09, 2008, 12:40 AM
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pristo82's Avatar
Nottingham UK
Joined Jan 2007
288 Posts
new 4#3b

Hi mario ,
do all of your MIA upgrades fit the new 4#3b ?
as its out soon im going to pre ordeder one and would love some of your upgrades on it , especially the frame and carbon look conopy
Cheers
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Old May 09, 2008, 12:42 AM
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USA, MN, Brainerd
Joined Feb 2008
1,130 Posts

"I highly recommend the stock basic 4#3"


not to mention that once the parts are readily available, those who want the nice red alu parts can/will start to mod the originals to take these parts. (this seems like the biggest draw for the new 4#3's)

Personally Mario, if you had the CP head available I would MUCH RATHER have that than the red alu parts even if I still fly it like a FP heli, man it looks so nice.
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Old May 09, 2008, 12:45 AM
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MarioIArguello's Avatar
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Thanks again to those nice comments on the MIA Dart heli, and the possible MIA Alu head options.

Yes the new frames are backwards compatible with all 4#3 produced so far.
The Carbon Like canopies are on sale already at my site amongst other items
like the metal flybars sets and Antenna and Battery support kits.

The 4#3 A and B models share the same architecture as the basic 4#3 with the exception fo larger spur gears and wider servos. Yes all my upgrades will work with all these helis. The very first frames I produced before we new that there was a 4#3 A or B on the market will work straight with the stock 4#3. If you have tried to use one of the very first MIA frames the newer 4#3 A or B models you may need to enlarge the servo mounting holes a bit to make up with the difference in servo width that Walkera decided to change as they went from model to model, thus I am trying to keep up with all their chages, but thinking customers will want one frame that fits all and thus my latest frames have all the mechnics and equipment accomodations for up to the 4#3 B model whether you retain it stock or decide to do your own brushless mod.
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Old May 09, 2008, 02:21 PM
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pristo82's Avatar
Nottingham UK
Joined Jan 2007
288 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Thanks again to those nice comments on the MIA Dart heli, and the possible MIA Alu head options.

Yes the new frames are backwards compatible with all 4#3 produced so far.
The Carbon Like canopies are on sale already at my site amongst other items
like the metal flybars sets and Antenna and Battery support kits.

The 4#3 A and B models share the same architecture as the basic 4#3 with the exception fo larger spur gears and wider servos. Yes all my upgrades will work with all these helis. The very first frames I produced before we new that there was a 4#3 A or B on the market will work straight with the stock 4#3. If you have tried to use one of the very first MIA frames the newer 4#3 A or B models you may need to enlarge the servo mounting holes a bit to make up with the difference in servo width that Walkera decided to change as they went from model to model, thus I am trying to keep up with all their chages, but thinking customers will want one frame that fits all and thus my latest frames have all the mechnics and equipment accomodations for up to the 4#3 B model whether you retain it stock or decide to do your own brushless mod.
Thanks for the info , one problem now do i get a old 4#3 or the new 4#3b ?
i would apreciate feedback from somebody who has both , i guessed the newer ones would have a big improvement over the older ones
Thanks
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Old May 09, 2008, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pristo82
Thanks for the info , one problem now do i get a old 4#3 or the new 4#3b ?
i would apreciate feedback from somebody who has both , i guessed the newer ones would have a big improvement over the older ones
Thanks
Have newer 4#3 A or B Version?

Please indicate so in your order so you get the latest MIA 4#3 frame with the double servo mounting holes and extended frame.

Have Original 4#3 version?

If you have the original FM or 2.4 Ghz 4#3, Any MIA 4#3 Frame will be fine.
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