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Old May 03, 2008, 01:44 PM
Put a Quark in it!
nexgen's Avatar
USA, MN, Brainerd
Joined Feb 2008
1,130 Posts
Dogbones, dogbones dogbones. now that I know of this mod, I'd do it on a brand new head. I'll never use the plastic balls again.

With that said, I must say Mario your knowledge and ingenuity are truly impressive. I can see how so many of us flock around this thread, which originally started to showcase your excellent frames, but now is like a next level 4#3 sounding board. Thank you for all your great input, I have learned a lot from you, I fly your frame (like the rigid skids), and have another on the way. I have turned my brother on to this heli, and when he gets his first one, we are going to plant it in your frame right out of the box.
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Old May 03, 2008, 04:23 PM
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MarioIArguello's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
1,421 Posts
A fleet of helis by a simple change of clothes?

One of the things that I also enjoy about flying tiny helis is changing the canopy scenery a little, a change of clothes, if you will, this fools me into believeing I am flying a brand new helicopter every time I change to a different canopy theme.

This is primarily the reason I created three different decal sets. Standard, Wild and Hot Rod for the white MIA "Edge" canopy.

A nicely decorated canopy swap, is a simple mod that visually enhances the way we fly the 4#3. It is quite satisfying to be able to simply pop a new theme for various moods without having to readjust the canopy size or shape.

Like last night I was in a lucky mood and flew my 4#3 with the one with the rolling dice, today I was in a hot rod mood and installed the one with flames.

Sure feels, like I have a whole collection of 4#3, by simply changing canopies with different design themes, it is very satisfying visually and also looks good on my office shelf. MY son likes the skull head one, my wife likes the green zebra and my daughter likes the shark.
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; May 03, 2008 at 04:39 PM.
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Old May 03, 2008, 04:24 PM
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Nexgen,

Your welcome and thank you.
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Old May 03, 2008, 06:22 PM
Micro-Heli-Concepts
jasonjetski's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
4,984 Posts
Mario,
I wanted to just take a minute to say thank you to you for helping me with my 4#3 tail wagging and TBE problem.
I rebuilt all the main shaft area yesterday and replaced all of it.
The problem was still there.
As it turns out...I had fitted one of those plastic tubes that are on some aerosol cans for spraying in hard to get places.
I fitted the tube to the left skid and had 50mm hanging behind the landing gear.
I had the antenna wire coiled around the tube too and it looked nice,but at certain RPM's I would get RESONANCE visible at the end od the tube.
Iam guessing that vibration being close to the tail was moving the tail easilly due to leverage.Therefore the gyro was trying to correct the tail and I was getting the BUZZ BUZZ BUZZ sound all the time.
I just strapped the tube closer to the boom so there is tension on the tube now and no vibration.
Now it flies great.
I feel like a bit of a fool because the problem only started after I added the tube.I should have checked the last mod first when a problem happens.
It is a simple rule that I ignored.But I learned from it.(I hope)
I hope someone else can learn from my mistake too.
Thank you Jason
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Old May 03, 2008, 08:09 PM
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MarioIArguello's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
1,421 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonjetski
Mario,
I wanted to just take a minute to say thank you to you for helping me with my 4#3 tail wagging and TBE problem.
I rebuilt all the main shaft area yesterday and replaced all of it.
The problem was still there.
As it turns out...I had fitted one of those plastic tubes that are on some aerosol cans for spraying in hard to get places.
I fitted the tube to the left skid and had 50mm hanging behind the landing gear.
I had the antenna wire coiled around the tube too and it looked nice,but at certain RPM's I would get RESONANCE visible at the end od the tube.
Iam guessing that vibration being close to the tail was moving the tail easilly due to leverage.Therefore the gyro was trying to correct the tail and I was getting the BUZZ BUZZ BUZZ sound all the time.
I just strapped the tube closer to the boom so there is tension on the tube now and no vibration.
Now it flies great.
I feel like a bit of a fool because the problem only started after I added the tube.I should have checked the last mod first when a problem happens.
It is a simple rule that I ignored.But I learned from it.(I hope)
I hope someone else can learn from my mistake too.
Thank you Jason
Jason, your welcome, and please, no such thing as fool, and there is no silly question. We all have made mistakes at some point and have asked questions about something we didn't know or were unsure of. Also we are never too old to learn something new or have a too young of a spirit to enjoy the things we love to enjoy.

Glad to hear your heli is flying fine now.
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Old May 03, 2008, 10:57 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bing44
Microkites -

You still have your Christmas tree up - we would get along great.....lol. I like your little heli. Is it just you or is the 4#3 that easy to fly? I will be stepping up to a FP soon, but I don't want one with a lot of issues. I'll keep reading.


jim
As far as I know I havent posted a video and I dont celabrate christmas.

So I am naturally curious-please post link!

mk
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Old May 03, 2008, 11:25 PM
Micro-Heli-Concepts
jasonjetski's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
4,984 Posts
I think he got confused with post 458.
I have screwed up the same way in the past.
Jason
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Old May 04, 2008, 01:24 AM
romantist
palomo's Avatar
Chicago
Joined Jul 2004
1,059 Posts
Hello,

Nice interesting thread. I have not done much visiting the threads on rcgroups in a looong time. But, all I can say nice..... Is this a new product? The walkera 4-3? Never heard of it. Muy bonito!
I looks very small and well made from some of the pictures have came across. Well, great job on those out-fit mods Mario. They look superb!

Palomo
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Old May 04, 2008, 01:29 AM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2008
675 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
This is the Parts Photo i recieved from walkera yesterday when i placed my order with them. part# HM-4#3b-Z-18 Is a main rotor shaft with c-clips.
That is where Mario got the idea of the sleave. I sent him this Photo.
-johnw
www.rchobbyhelicopter.com
John, are you able to order Z-09 and Z-10 for me and how much for each? Thanks.
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Old May 04, 2008, 01:54 AM
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fretman's Avatar
United States, CA, Lake Forest
Joined Dec 2007
1,028 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
The conical shaped pliers I use to do so are smooth and leaves a nice concave indentation so it makes the arms give a little. I have not broken them, nor popped them. Don't use a sharp tip pliers this type will weaken the plastic because if you conpress it wil create a sharp crease on the plastic, not a concave one.

Dogbone Mod Observations

Pros:
The use of it to place metals balls, for the head is nice, stronger than plastic.

Cons:

The drilling of the head, and glueing the dogboe to it, if you get this wrong, in the hole drilling or alignment or the dogbone install, you can throw off your control links symmetry.

The distance of the dogbone balls, still places the flybar to rotor head links on an angle, so all this does is replaces the rotor head plastic balls with metal. However it still restricts the up and down movement of the Rotor head via the steering mechanism which happens to be the flybar.

The distance of the dogbone balls is even smaller by 1/16" ! than the distance of the balls on the rotor head, this restricts the movement of the rotor head even further!. You want to minimize restriction to movement of head as much as possible, not increase it.

The Rotor Head mod I described is minimize the restriction on the up and down movement of the rotor head via the flybar by making the rotor head arms further away from the Center of the head and more in line (Not so much at an angle)with the flybar. This produces a very smooth moving rotor head and provides crisp control.

Hey Mario, I have no doubt your way works fine... but some of us crash a lot and crash hard at times. And those darn balls are a major weak point when you crash.

Here is the way I did the dogbone, I cut it in half then cut to size. Drilled holes smaller than the diameter of the dogbone and inserted with a bit of force. No need for gluing. This way the length is adjustable(and works with dave's alu rotor head), and I have the length set like you did in your diagram. When I first saw this mod I was hesitant to try it because of the drilling part. But it actually turned out much easier that it seemed. All I can say is I am very impressed with the result. Very stable, very strong. Anyone that continue to break the balls off really should try this.
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Old May 04, 2008, 02:21 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
walkera 4-3B V2 parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathan9113
John, are you able to order Z-09 and Z-10 for me and how much for each? Thanks.
jonathan,
PM me next time i may miss some questions. Those parts are in the Metal upgrade kit i have on ordered from walkera. don't quote me but i think they will go for $32. i expect them mid/end of May. with the new 4#3B V2's.
My next order i will stock all the individule parts for the 4#3A V2 and 4#3B V2 including the more powerful motors. these motors are of interest to me to put in the old FM 4#3's as an upgrade like the new li-pos. i will have complete packages of MIA Frames with combined parts in one order.
thanks, johnw
www.rchobbyhelicopter.com
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Old May 04, 2008, 02:58 AM
Put a Quark in it!
nexgen's Avatar
USA, MN, Brainerd
Joined Feb 2008
1,130 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fretman
Hey Mario, I have no doubt your way works fine... but some of us crash a lot and crash hard at times. And those darn balls are a major weak point when you crash.

Here is the way I did the dogbone, I cut it in half then cut to size. Drilled holes smaller than the diameter of the dogbone and inserted with a bit of force. No need for gluing. This way the length is adjustable(and works with dave's alu rotor head), and I have the length set like you did in your diagram. When I first saw this mod I was hesitant to try it because of the drilling part. But it actually turned out much easier that it seemed. All I can say is I am very impressed with the result. Very stable, very strong. Anyone that continue to break the balls off really should try this.
QUIT BUSTIN MY BALLS!!! (I said to the heli as it flung itself on the floor)
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Old May 04, 2008, 05:09 AM
Trying To Takeoff
salat's Avatar
Novosibirsk, Siberia
Joined Dec 2006
2,418 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nexgen
QUIT BUSTIN MY BALLS!!! (I said to the heli as it flung itself on the floor)
what if some kid would read your post...
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Old May 04, 2008, 07:49 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonjetski
I think he got confused with post 458.
I have screwed up the same way in the past.
Jason
oh -that video is 3vw-he is awesome

my v2 flies almost that well out of the box

mk
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Old May 04, 2008, 01:21 PM
Registered User
fretman's Avatar
United States, CA, Lake Forest
Joined Dec 2007
1,028 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nexgen
QUIT BUSTIN MY BALLS!!! (I said to the heli as it flung itself on the floor)
LOL
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