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Old Apr 29, 2008, 07:17 AM
Metal Magician
Loughborough Leics England
Joined Sep 2002
708 Posts
darn it they stole my seperate bearing pin idea

Dave
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 10:33 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2007
215 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fretman
Can you see why a original 4#3 would not be able to be fitted with the metal parts?

Can you see if there would be issues with fitting the 4#3b parts(servos, metal parts etc.) on the MIA g10 or cf frame?
It is do-able! I am having my metal head sent to me in a few weeks. If you are a hands-on kind, you can rig it up, no problem to upgrade the old 4-3. Walkera did this, in order to make money on us folks - but too bad. Why spend $200 on a complete helicopter,..... rather save it for a nice cup of tea.
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 11:10 AM
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Joined Jun 2007
2,152 Posts
$200 for tea? OMG thats more than gasoline. Its the Boston tea party all over again.

Too bad they are going to do the same crap on the 4g3. Why not just make it metal from the get go.
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 03:17 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
photos

Quote:
Originally Posted by oobly
That looks like the shaft which goes through the head which the blade grips pivot on. Looks like they are using o-rings for damping

-Oobly

[EDIT]Thanks for posting the pic, John. Nice to see all the bits separate like that.[/EDIT]
Glad i could help clarify things.
-johnw
www.rchobbyhelicopter.com
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 05:19 PM
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rotortiller's Avatar
California
Joined Mar 2003
261 Posts
Has anyone got a Hitec Eclipse QCPM/PPM working with a Walker 4#4 RX?

I am trying to get my Hitec Eclipse QCPM/PPM FM Spectrum TX to work with a Walker 4#4 RX on 72.790 which is suppose to be channel 50 according the the AMA frequency list.

I get absolutely no response out of the RX on the 4#3.
The original TX for the 4#3 says it is PCM/PPM and the crystal says 72.790.

I tried using QCPM, PPM Positive and Negative shift but none seem to do anything.

I am sure I am doing something wrong or is it just not compatible?

I am trying to do this so I can set up the Dual rates or EP or something to try to make it a bit less responsive on the cyclic. I guess I could shorten the throws on the servos but i was hoping to use the hitec TX.


I would appreciate any help anyone can think of. Thanks.
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 07:15 PM
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Toronto Canada
Joined Dec 2002
5,411 Posts
I can remember reading a post that indicates that the Walkera receiver is looking for a transmitter with 11 channels before it initializes.

This would imply that the receiver is not compatible with all transmitters.

Here is a reference to it regarding a converter which permits the use of a brushless motor.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=4463

and a reference to a modification to the transmitter.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=187
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Last edited by Martyn McKinney; Apr 29, 2008 at 07:55 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 08:12 PM
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rotortiller's Avatar
California
Joined Mar 2003
261 Posts
Ok, thanks. I wish these companies could abide by a standard. Oh well I guess I will live with it being touchy and try to make smaller moves of the sticks or shorten the servo arm throw.

THanks for the info.
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 08:32 PM
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California
Joined Mar 2003
261 Posts
training gear for a 4#3

I am sure there must other posts but I did not see any.

I am using the training gear from a Heli-max Rotofly on the 4#3. The Roto-fly is a bit bigger but it seems to still work OK on the 4#3. I still get 10 minutes or so of run time and it makes it a bunch more stable. It also is just big enough that it protects the rotors and stuf when I hit the couch or rug too hard!

The little snap things that you are suppose to use on the Rotofly to clip it to the skids do not work on the 4#3 since the skids are smaller diameter rod. But they were broken on my training gear anyways. But I just took some masking tape and cut little strips of tape about 3/16 inch wide and tied the training gear on with the tape on the four corners of the skids.

It seems to work well well enough.
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 08:45 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rotortiller
I am sure there must other posts but I did not see any.

I am using the training gear from a Heli-max Rotofly on the 4#3. The Roto-fly is a bit bigger but it seems to still work OK on the 4#3. I still get 10 minutes or so of run time and it makes it a bunch more stable. It also is just big enough that it protects the rotors and stuf when I hit the couch or rug too hard!

The little snap things that you are suppose to use on the Rotofly to clip it to the skids do not work on the 4#3 since the skids are smaller diameter rod. But they were broken on my training gear anyways. But I just took some masking tape and cut little strips of tape about 3/16 inch wide and tied the training gear on with the tape on the four corners of the skids.

It seems to work well well enough.
bread tyes and soda straws! if straws are too short crimp one inside the other

cf rods and thin strips of electrical tape works well also bamboo skewers-but remember to put cotton balls or foam on tips of rods to prevent snagging on ground

remember to punch it out of ground effect fast! Hardest to learn and most neccasary! GET 2-3 FT UP QUICK!-- compensating for natural drift with cyclic stick(mine always drifted left in ground effect


MK
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 09:23 PM
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MIA Training Gear for the 4#3 helis

I added a couple items to the MIA- Walkera 4#3 Upgrades on my site.
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 09:38 PM
VE7FM
TheSteve's Avatar
Canada, BC, Langley
Joined Nov 2004
1,726 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rotortiller
Ok, thanks. I wish these companies could abide by a standard. Oh well I guess I will live with it being touchy and try to make smaller moves of the sticks or shorten the servo arm throw.

THanks for the info.
Its not too tough to install the chip required to have the 4in1 work with your transmitter. I got it working with my Futaba 9CAP. It made flying the 4#3 much nicer. You need an Atmel tiny45v programmed with code from Conny. It would need 4 connections to the 4in1.
There is a PDF detailing its installation but its in german.
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Old Apr 29, 2008, 11:05 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
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oops wrong link!

wrong link

here is correct one

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=857196

mk
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Old Apr 30, 2008, 01:48 AM
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MIA Training Gear Kits

Ok, I've been getting Emails from people asking me more about the LG trainer kits for the Small Walkera 4#3. Here is a better shot of what you get in the MIA LG Trainer Kit.

Carbon rods
4 yellow, rod end tips
4 skid attachements
4 very little foam balls, red or green color.

This is a super lightweight, Training LG, and it is not simply a micro heli or sub micro heli training gear made smaller. I designed this particular size for palm size helicopters, and it so happens that it works great with the Walkera 4#3, 5#6, and similar size miniature helicopters.

Q. Why even bother using the trainer LG for coaxial helis?

A. Believe it or not, not everyone is a first time successful pilot, even with coaxial helicopters, there are some folks that need a little help and this particular LG trainer kit helps such persons to get the feel for the helicopter, minimizing possible crashes.

This LG trainer is only 1.3 grams with the carbon rods with end tips but without the balls . You can hover your heli this way and still get some very good flight times. And 4.5 grams with the balls, if you prefer a more stable LG trainer, use the balls, this way, it is very helpful in getting you the feel for the helicopter as you move around the floor. You can hover the heli with the balls also, but take breaks in between hovers, as you get the feel for the helicopter.

The LG is easily attached to the skids, of the stock 4#3, or the MIA Frames upgrades. It is also easy to center it, for CG adjustment.

If you think this will help you, they are on my site.


OK, now... the heli is the Wakera 4#3 with MIA upgrades: rotor head, blades, canopy and rigid G10 frame . THe canopy sports MIA shark decal emblems and the canopy has been given 3 light coats of clear coat over the decals to seal the color and give the canopy a nice gloss finish. These do not come with the training gear
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; Apr 30, 2008 at 02:10 AM.
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Old Apr 30, 2008, 08:29 AM
master 4#3
istanbul Türkiye
Joined Jan 2008
958 Posts
MarioIArguello and others with knowledge of the heli mechanics, its out of topic but had to ask,what is the reason for tbe? i am experiencing ccw tbe with 4#3,if i leave the sticks,the heli draws a big ccw circle and whilst looses altitude. i could not get rid of this.i had the 4#3 hands of hovering for 3-4 seconds before a stupid crash.any input will be much appreciated.
genco.
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Old Apr 30, 2008, 09:11 AM
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Toronto Canada
Joined Dec 2002
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There is one possible reason that I can think of.

If the paddle blades are not at zero pitch, there will be aerodynamic forces on the paddles while turning because the outer paddle blades are effectively moving faster through the air than the inner blade.

This can put unbalanced forces on the rotor system causing the toilet bowl effect.

This effect is most noticeable on the PicooZ heli in which turning right causes the heli to go forward and turning left causes the heli to slow or hover.

The flybar on the PicooZ is at a different angle to the flybar than the standard 90 degrees which permits this heli to either go forward or hover with only 2 channels.

This effect may also be seen on co-axial helis.

The upper stabilizing rotor system is further away from the center of mass of the heli and there is a force moment when turning because of the difference in distance of the 2 rotor systems on the main shaft.
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