HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Apr 28, 2008, 09:56 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
I may have recieved the wrong info on the FM (origonal) 4#3 not being able to be upgraded to the metal version.
-johnw
there are alot of differances in the two versions

mainshaft and swash appear to the same(other than the alu!) but design is pretty much the same

main blades are like longer 5g6 blades

whole head is metal except see-saw-even inner flybar swivel!

links look the same length but I didnt measure yet

servos are slightly differant-longer wires too!

main gear is 11/2 times the dia. of v1-much finer mesh too!

frame is slightly longer between mainshaft and pinion

battery holder is alot differant-you plug it in in rear-rx/lipo connection passes thru battery cage

servo holder is a little differant

from the boom back is same as v2

think the l/g is a little tougher-but looks close to v1


btw-just dumped my bl 4#3 in the pond-was running in there about 5 sec-took out and took apart and dryed it quick

not worried too much about the 4in 1 but do you think the losi/esc might be ok??

mk
microkites is offline Find More Posts by microkites
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Apr 28, 2008, 10:15 PM
Registered User
Portland, Oregon
Joined Jan 2008
453 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
btw-just dumped my bl 4#3 in the pond-was running in there about 5 sec-took out and took apart and dryed it quick

not worried too much about the 4in 1 but do you think the losi/esc might be ok??

mk
I would assume the motor and esc would be fine, if you let them DRY completely. I've put electronics under running water, let them dry out for days, and they've worked again perfectly.

Very busy at work, otherwise would stop by,
Carl
ReaLyze is offline Find More Posts by ReaLyze
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 28, 2008, 10:18 PM
master 4#3
istanbul Türkiye
Joined Jan 2008
958 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
Yes i will try to figure this out. one thing is the mainshaft has "C" clips to hold it in place. so that is a big difference.
cheers,
-johnw
www.rchobbyhelicopter.com
there are some photos ICU posted on the 4#3 thread. the main shaft has the same pin to hold the main gear. can you post a photo of the c clip? maybe these initial productions are not all the same.
baygenco is offline Find More Posts by baygenco
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 28, 2008, 10:50 PM
Tempe, AZ
DJ NeX's Avatar
Joined Jan 2008
90 Posts
I just ordered my 4#3 and G10 frame from JohnIn2SonAZ @ www.rchobbyhelicopter.com earlier today. I can't wait for it to show up!

The website is looking really good John!

I can't wait for the metal upgrades to come in stock!
DJ NeX is offline Find More Posts by DJ NeX
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 28, 2008, 11:25 PM
Suspended Account
MarioIArguello's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
1,421 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
I may have recieved the wrong info on the FM (origonal) 4#3 not being able to be upgraded to the metal version.
-johnw
John,

The reason they might have said it cannot be upgraded is because with the metal parts (only) you add weight, with weight added, you need to also go to a larger rotor diameter and different gear ratios.

From the pictures of the new 4#3, everything looks interchangeable and useable with the older ones.


Edited: Irrelevant to thread.
MarioIArguello is offline Find More Posts by MarioIArguello
Last edited by MarioIArguello; Apr 29, 2008 at 04:14 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 28, 2008, 11:31 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by baygenco
there are some photos ICU posted on the 4#3 thread. the main shaft has the same pin to hold the main gear. can you post a photo of the c clip? maybe these initial productions are not all the same.
actually-on mine the pin is longer-stick out on both sides-easy to change I think

mk
microkites is offline Find More Posts by microkites
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 28, 2008, 11:44 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
my v2 swash looks exactly like v1. Indees the upper swash plate LOOKS same as v1-only lower swash is alu
blade holder is just like 5g6 alu part-but in 2 pieces

brass bushings to hold flybar pivot seem flush to head

I havent even popped the blade holder off yet(didnt come off easy-not ready to force it!)-so am curious as to the dampening-the blade holder rocks along the lenght of the blades-almost like dampeners in larger helis-but since it appears that it is all metal on metal-where is the cushion??-doesnt seem to be slop

anyone pop their blades yet??

mk

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
John,

The reason they might have said it cannot be upgraded is because with the metal parts (only) you add weight, with weight added, you need to also go to a larger rotor diameter and different gear ratios.

From the pictures of the new 4#3, everything looks interchangeable and useable with the older ones.

The only part that I mentioned to you that is a bit nebulus, is that swashplate ID reducer sleeve (that Walkera is calling it the main shaft) which actually looks like it fits over the main shaft , which I believe they are doing it for the same reasons I did something similar on the MIA Bumble Bee Design. See the pics below, it is a spacer tube to position better a large ID swashplate over the main shaft. With a spacer tube like that and with some up and down travel limits ,which I believe are the C clips Walkera is including with that tubular adapter part, you don't really need a ball on the swahplate so long as the sweashplate is able to pivot at its center and not move up and down. But Walkera may also be including the SP ball, just hard to tell from some of the product photos.
microkites is offline Find More Posts by microkites
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29, 2008, 12:21 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
sales

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ NeX
I just ordered my 4#3 and G10 frame from JohnIn2SonAZ @ www.rchobbyhelicopter.com earlier today. I can't wait for it to show up!

The website is looking really good John!

I can't wait for the metal upgrades to come in stock!
Thanks H !!!
They will go out tomorrow so you will get them wednesday.
have fun!
thanks, johnw
johnIn2SonAZ is offline Find More Posts by johnIn2SonAZ
Site Sponsor
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29, 2008, 02:52 AM
Fly, fix, repeat
oobly's Avatar
Tampere, Finland
Joined Feb 2007
961 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
there are alot of differances in the two versions

...
frame is slightly longer between mainshaft and pinion

...
mk
I believe this is the main reason they say it cannot be upgraded. The motor mount holes are too close to the mainshaft to mount the metal version gears.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
John,

The reason they might have said it cannot be upgraded is because with the metal parts (only) you add weight, with weight added, you need to also go to a larger rotor diameter and different gear ratios.

From the pictures of the new 4#3, everything looks interchangeable and useable with the older ones.

The only part that I mentioned to you that is a bit nebulus, is that swashplate ID reducer sleeve (that Walkera is calling it the main shaft) which actually looks like it fits over the main shaft , which I believe they are doing it for the same reasons I did something similar on the MIA Bumble Bee Design...
What swashplate ID reducer sleeve? Where on earth did you get the idea they were using a sleeve? (did you have geometry issues with the servo link ball joints not being in line with the swash pivot point on the BB swash?)

It looks like you can use a metal head and swash with a normal mainshaft or even use a metal version mainshaft. The gear pin is the same. The gear ratio will not be the same as on the metal version, but you can trim the blades to adjust the headspeed if it needs it.

-Oobly

[EDIT]From the pictures of the head here it doesn't seem like the blade holder should be able to pivot unless there is some damping system in the individual blade holders themselves (edit- there seems to be damping in the head, o-rings on the blade holder axle). Looks like they might have beefed up the servo gears a bit. The new servos are wider and a bit shorter. I wonder if they weight the same as the old ones?[/EDIT]
oobly is offline Find More Posts by oobly
Last edited by oobly; Apr 29, 2008 at 06:20 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29, 2008, 03:14 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Walkera 4#3B V2 Parts Photo

This is the Parts Photo i recieved from walkera yesterday when i placed my order with them. part# HM-4#3b-Z-18 Is a main rotor shaft with c-clips.
That is where Mario got the idea of the sleave. I sent him this Photo.
-johnw
www.rchobbyhelicopter.com
johnIn2SonAZ is offline Find More Posts by johnIn2SonAZ
Site Sponsor
Last edited by johnIn2SonAZ; Apr 29, 2008 at 03:21 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29, 2008, 03:53 AM
Fly, fix, repeat
oobly's Avatar
Tampere, Finland
Joined Feb 2007
961 Posts
That looks like the shaft which goes through the head which the blade grips pivot on. Looks like they are using o-rings for damping

-Oobly

[EDIT]Thanks for posting the pic, John. Nice to see all the bits separate like that.[/EDIT]
oobly is offline Find More Posts by oobly
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29, 2008, 03:54 AM
Suspended Account
MarioIArguello's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
1,421 Posts
That would make sence, looks like an "axle pin" for the rotor head with damping o-rings. The C-clips are probably there to prevent the pin from moving to far on the ends, in between the rotor head blade grips and hub. So my previous post is irrelevant, I edited it. I am pretty sure that is what that part is, after looking closely at the parts chart and looking at the rotor hub.
MarioIArguello is offline Find More Posts by MarioIArguello
Last edited by MarioIArguello; Apr 29, 2008 at 04:23 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29, 2008, 04:19 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
That would make sence, looks like an axle pin for the rotor head with damping o-rings. The C-clips are probably there to prevent the pin from moving to far on the ends in between the rotor head blade grips. So my previous post is irrelevant, I edited it. I am pretty sure that is what that part is, after looking closely at the parts chart and looking at the rotor hub.

woo-hoo !

nice-it is dampening rings-that explains alot!

mk
microkites is offline Find More Posts by microkites
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29, 2008, 04:32 AM
Suspended Account
MarioIArguello's Avatar
Joined Jun 2006
1,421 Posts
4#3 Head Damping

Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
woo-hoo !

nice-it is dampening rings-that explains alot!

mk
Yeah looks like they have Damping! Cool!.

The question would be then, how much damping? because this can make of break the performance on the heli depending on the durometer of the o-ring rubber material.

My Bellt CP King had very poor damping, once I changed to better O-rings and adjusted the tightness on the blade grips' distance to the spacer washers, between them and the Orings, it was a much better and smoother setup, otherwise the head had a bit much resonance which made the heli shake under the rotor head.

If you get this effect with the new 4#3, it is time to invest a little more time on tidying up the head assembly.
MarioIArguello is offline Find More Posts by MarioIArguello
Last edited by MarioIArguello; Oct 18, 2008 at 10:27 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29, 2008, 05:57 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
Yeah looks like they have Damping! Cool!.

The question would be then, how much damping? because this can make of break the performance on the heli depending on the durometer of the o-ring rubber material.

My Bellt CP King had very poor damping, once I changed to better O-rings and adjusted the tightness on the blade grips' distance to the spacer washers, between them and the Orings, it was a much better and smoother setup, otherwise the head had a bit much resonance which made the heli shake under the rotor head.

If you get this effect with the new 4#3, it is time to invest a little more time on tidying up the head assembly.



all I have is the stock to compare it to-and the differance is night and day!

didnt think just the gear change would have steadied it up this much-stable as hell- I am sure people will start experimenting with differant hardness' soon

I am curious how much longer the spindle shaft is
had also found on my larger helis minute differances in either blade grips or orings was very detrimental to stable flight

mk

edit-the amout of dampening -blade tips can move aprox 1/4" up and down-just enough to feel it
microkites is offline Find More Posts by microkites
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Mini-HowTo WALKERA 4#3 Mods. Vario3 Micro Helis 77 Oct 31, 2008 12:20 PM
Discussion Submicro Walkera 4#3 FP - 4 channel piccoz sized heli! sketchaholic Micro Helis 6422 Mar 07, 2008 06:27 PM
Sold Walkera 4#3 flys awesome! trab1925 Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 7 Feb 26, 2008 11:08 PM
Discussion Walkera 4#3 mods red-panda Micro Helis 10 Oct 11, 2007 01:45 PM
Discussion Walkera 4#3 axelen Micro Helis 11 Aug 19, 2007 07:19 AM