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Old Apr 21, 2008, 06:00 PM
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MIA Carbon Frame Kits for the 4#3

Carbon Frames. These are some very nice frames.

Actually these are more than just frames, they are a complete helicopter structure kit, minus the mechanics, rotors, blades and canopies.

I added a couple padles as a bonus. These were not part of the frames kits, but I had some material area left on the parts tree to use and didn't want to waste it.

Tips on Removing the parts from the parts tree.

Bend each part back and forth on supporting small bridges that hold the parts on the parts tree. A couple twists and the parts break loose.

Use an emery board (sandpaper nail files, as some people call them) and sand the parts are the break points to clean them up a bit. This is very simple process, but please wear a dust mask as you would when sanding any type of material.

Assemble the parts as per my videos, which I posted in this thread, as well as on my web site, under Walkera Videos.

Both Carbon and G10 frames share same architecture as previously stated.
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Last edited by MarioIArguello; Apr 21, 2008 at 06:35 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2008, 07:36 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
hi mario !
got your kit,building it now

all looks good so far

since your vids are of old l/g-any tips on gluing them on to frame?

I was planning on just ca'ing them where they interlock-is that ok?

looking good though

mk

also got 2 pieces I didnt see any use for-2 smallish square ones with 3-4 servo holes it looks like-but is not the servo clip-part in center of your parts pix-and one in center of l/g these are for??
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Old Apr 21, 2008, 08:29 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
g10 frame

ok here is my g10 frame built -without electrics yet

went together well

I would score cut out places on white supports before gluing-easier removal

came with adapter for stock boom and tailcase!

extra tail motor mount piece

you need to sand the burrs-takes 5 min,whole frame

2 pieces I cant identify -see pix

about to mount electrics-but looking good! going bl right away!

I like pressure fitted boom-since I always mangle mine-will be durable

I just realized-are those pieces flybar paddles???! holes for weight? how do you mount if so? and should I rounf edges?

well here are first pix
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Old Apr 21, 2008, 11:04 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
g10 -electrics in

well, I installed electrics on g10 mia frame

motor-losi-mounted easy-no filing needed

4 in 1 is mounted lower than stock-so watch your wire length!

servo mounting is easy-a bit fiddly-but good design-though Mario-I like your pin design for servo clip-but I would add another hole and make it a 2 pin clip-is a touch loose unless I ca-which I prefer not to

pinion mesh was right on with losi and stock pinion

cog was good-though I suggest a few of those little rubber bands in your kit for battery mounting-I didnt have any-just a cheap bling for your kit!

frame is way solid!- when I was carving out white mounting blocks I was rough-frame is solid!--with pressure mount boom and interlocking skids and solid canopy(which I forgot to order) this thing is way rugged!can be really thrown around! easily twice as crash resistant as mht cf frame

dd tail went in easy and no problems-except my helis is spinning ccw!

new tail motor,basic bl setup(losi) and even with my comp tx(703) cant program it out-blades on t/r trimmed a mm or 2 and tryed all trimming and subtrim and d/r -no go tail is too powerful-- trim t/r blades more??

so I have to decide if I shoud go back geared(mario sent adapter for old boom in kit) or try and mount stock tailcase on his sweet boom(I dont think even I can break this one)

didnt even need to adjust my swash/servo links!

well pleased with this kit

mario-will your g10 rotor blade on your site be tailored for dd? or can you suggest I good replacement option? (I like the idea of having too much power in my tail! though does motor wear more then?)-stock frame bl has weak tail
now I just need to tone it down-anyone know about throttle/tail mixing on 703?)


once I fix my spinning problen I will hover!

mk
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Old Apr 21, 2008, 11:29 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
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MK,
just reverse the tail servo and the spining will be corrected. beacause you went from geared to dd this changes the direction the way the tail spins. great job! your the first to go Bl on the MIA frame! you should make a list of all the parts you used for everyone viewing this thread. It looks Sweet!
-johnw
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Old Apr 22, 2008, 12:08 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
MK,
just reverse the tail servo and the spining will be corrected. beacause you went from geared to dd this changes the direction the way the tail spins. great job! your the first to go Bl on the MIA frame! you should make a list of all the parts you used for everyone viewing this thread. It looks Sweet!
-johnw

since there is no tail servo-grin-I assume you can just reverse polarity on motor?

mk

edit: woo hoo ! successful hover-only did about 2 min hover but is very stable but responsive

very nice!
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Old Apr 22, 2008, 12:11 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
since there is no tail servo-grin-I assume you can just reverse polarity on motor?

mk
reversing the tail servo switch on the transmitter does the same thing as switching the wires.
this is easier right?
-johnw
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Old Apr 22, 2008, 12:22 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
reversing the tail servo switch on the transmitter does the same thing as switching the wires.
this is easier right?
-johnw

uuuhhhh-doh! lol did it the hard way!

well< if my luck holds I am getting the metal 2.4 tommorrow-how about metal cnc,2.4,bl,and mia g10 frame??

grin-am eager to do that build-but might try stock metal 2.4 for a couple days to try it out! With the new wider blades I am going to have insane climbout!

thanx!

MK
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Old Apr 22, 2008, 12:27 AM
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Glad you got the frame MK.

Nice job on the assembly!.

Ok. a few little pointers and to answer some of your questions:

The "bonus" flybar paddles are the "to be glued" type. If you want to use them, they attach to the carbon flybar at the ends of the bars with a bit of CA glue, making sure this is good joint. Once secured you can use the hardware I will have on my site or simply use some little 0-80 screws and nuts to make the gyro weights, there are three little holes for the weight screws and nuts you can use any up to 3 depending on how you like the feel of your heli control.

If you use the paddles I suggest you get the hardware kit I will have at my site. I should have it this wednesday. Use 1 screw and nut per paddle all the way at the far end of the paddle for mild stability, use 3 for really stable flybar and control feel. Just make sure the paddles are installed equal length on the bar. Remember these paddles were bonus parts, if you like them installed as described, keep them, if not stick with the stock paddles, especially if you have the wider Walkera ones! the wider the paddles the more control you get. This is why Walkera went with wider paddles on their latest 4#3 versions. I have one of the older version with the narrower paddles and so I use the bonus paddles for more control. The carbon ones since they are light, they will make your control really snappy!, use them without the flybar weights, only if you are good at piloting helis.

Note that once you install the Glue on "bonus" paddles they will be permanent on the rotor, but in case you need to service the flybar control arm and need to remove the paddles you will have to sacrifice the carbon flybar rod. The Paddles are reusable if you clean then after use.


OK on the servo clip white locking pin, if you find it is a bit loose, use two small pieces of heat shrink tubing or thin wall sheathing from wire to keep it in place. Yes, please don't glue it!.

I will add to the future kits the rubber bands you suggest to hold the battery!, absolutely! this sliped me !, I was thinking about it, no problem, If you guys reorder from me, mention the small rubber bands and I will send you a few with your future orders.


The G10 blade I have on my site is for the tail in direct drive but have not made them for sale yet. Use the stock Walkera tail blade, trimmed 1mm from the trailing edge with my boom you will have better tail control because of the tail rotor will be farther back requiring less effort from the esc but since is in DD the motor will get warm, as already stated earlier in this thread.
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Old Apr 22, 2008, 02:31 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,368 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
uuuhhhh-doh! lol did it the hard way!

well< if my luck holds I am getting the metal 2.4 tommorrow-how about metal cnc,2.4,bl,and mia g10 frame??

grin-am eager to do that build-but might try stock metal 2.4 for a couple days to try it out! With the new wider blades I am going to have insane climbout!

thanx!

MK
So lets see a video of the first Brushless MAIG10 frame set!
-johnw
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Old Apr 22, 2008, 03:16 AM
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Tampere, Finland
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
reversing the tail servo switch on the transmitter does the same thing as switching the wires.
this is easier right?
-johnw
Actually, reversing the switch on the transmitter won't make the motor spin the other way...

-Oobly
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Last edited by oobly; Apr 22, 2008 at 03:28 AM. Reason: realised I may be too harsh.. removed insensitive comment.
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Old Apr 22, 2008, 03:58 AM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oobly
Actually, reversing the switch on the transmitter won't make the motor spin the other way...

-Oobly
you know what i think your right. it will just make the stick reversed?
right?
-johnw
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Old Apr 22, 2008, 06:14 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
So lets see a video of the first Brushless MAIG10 frame set!
-johnw

sigh if I only had a vid camera-might try the one on my phone

mk
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Old Apr 22, 2008, 06:19 AM
Fly, fix, repeat
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Tampere, Finland
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
you know what i think your right. it will just make the stick reversed?
right?
-johnw
Yup I think the easiest way is to just switch the wires. I haven't taken a tail motor apart yet, does anyone know if the brushes are designed to run in both directions? If not, running it the other way may reduce the life of the brushes. I would keep my geared tail to start with (until my first tail motor dies at least), but I would probably experiment with DD and even BL later as I know I can't keep anything "standard" for too long!

The frame kit looks good, by the way. MK, we want video! [EDIT]lol, he read my mind[/EDIT]

-Oobly
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Old Apr 22, 2008, 06:29 AM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by oobly
Yup I think the easiest way is to just switch the wires. I haven't taken a tail motor apart yet, does anyone know if the brushes are designed to run in both directions? If not, running it the other way may reduce the life of the brushes. I would keep my geared tail to start with (until my first tail motor dies at least), but I would probably experiment with DD and even BL later as I know I can't keep anything "standard" for too long!

The frame kit looks good, by the way. MK, we want video! [EDIT]lol, he read my mind[/EDIT]

-Oobly
darn-didnt think of the brushes when I reversed wires!


mk
well I have a few spare tail motors-will experiment!
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