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Old Apr 17, 2008, 10:57 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
I was one of those lucky 9!

I was hoping to have your frame tested by the time I get it

its been a week!

<--impatient!

grin-was just hoping it would be here today

I really do not want to go direct drive tail!

they say the mod to fit tailcase is easy,but Mario,I am probably not the only one who would like geared tailcase too-if only for comparision! If not too difficult to do

would be worth a few more bucks on frame-I would pay more

btw-your cf frame and mht one,while differant-are the same price-I had one-wasnt worth the expense-I like basic design of yours better-but alu pylon on mht was nice

people having to chamfer the bearing seats is going to make for some sloppy work-then bitching about frame-would maybe consider a better bearing support

but I know-If I want the price-I better be prepared to do the work-note-the word "kit" might be more prominently displayed on your page-if only to warm people they have to build!-you would think it would be obvious-but human stupidity is infinite!

but anyway-if I go dd tail on bl-is going to burn out my tail motors every couple of flights! It alreadt is working real hard! had to lower my throttle curves way down to keep it from work so hard

if I put my new metal 2.4 in your frame-I am back to brushed for a while(till they find the fet!) so dd might be ok-but not for bl! (imho)

mk

thanx

Mk

edit: thanx for quick response-and delay for improvements always ok!

p.s.-I like look of g10 one over your cf one alot!
The MHT is more than $20.00 more than the Carbon MIA frame and factor in shipping the price difference goes up even more. you can use the stock walkera tail boom. it will just require a few more layers of heat shrink. if you do this then there is nothing to bother with as far as getting the geared tail on. anyway all it takes is a few twists of a 1/8'' drill bit to enlarge the walkera geared tail box to fit on the larger MIA boom. if you can't do this mod you will have a tuff time gluing the frame....lol
-johnw
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:06 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
trimming walkera tail blades

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swilson50
I completed my Walkera 4#3 MIA G10 frame tonight and took it for a maiden flight in the garage. For this initial test, I used a stock motor setup (with heatsink on motor).
I was very pleased. It seemed to fly smoother and a little less twitchy. Hovers and piros were all very stable. I did several figure 8's as well as ovals (go fast, turn left for stock car fans). I got a few forward funnels too.
The stock canopy had to be cut quite a bit on the bottom, but it fit. I was pleased that the CG seemed spot-on; even with the longer tail boom.

I was very surprised how well the direct dirve tail motor handled. I just pressed the 4#3 stock tail blade on the motor shaft. It did seem to need a bit more right trim and right turns were a bit slower than geared. (this seems natural as the motor was loaded a bit.) I was pleased that the tail motor didn't get too hot. In fact, I couldn't feel any heat with my fingers, so I stuck the motor to my lips right after flying a full battery . (OK, maybe that was stupid). but it was only slightly warm. I will trim the blade to pick up a few rpm's and efficiency. I guess the extra boom length helps with leverage.

I've got an extra TheSteve's brushless setup which I will install in a day or two. I already love the setup in another stock frame set-up.

Glad to have you back, Mario.

Stan in Dodge City
Stan,
trim 1.5mm off the trailing edge of the tail blades and this will bring the rpm's back up on the tail motor and cool it down a bit.trim the posts off too to remove some mass in the tailblade. also if you had an older 4-3 you have the small flybar paddles the newer 4-3's have the larger paddles. with the larger paddles this heli is really stable with the MIA frame.
-johnw
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:08 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
The MHT is more than $20.00 more than the Carbon MIA frame and factor in shipping the price difference goes up even more. you can use the stock walkera tail boom. it will just require a few more layers of heat shrink. if you do this then there is nothing to bother with as far as getting the geared tail on. anyway all it takes is a few twists of a 1/8'' drill bit to enlarge the walkera geared tail box to fit on the larger MIA boom. if you can't do this mod you will have a tuff time gluing the frame....lol
-johnw


lol-grin-point taken

mk
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:10 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
lol-grin-point taken

mk
your going to love the new frame!!
it's worth the wait!
cheers,
johnw
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:19 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ
Stan,
trim 1.5mm off the trailing edge of the tail blades and this will bring the rpm's back up on the tail motor and cool it down a bit.
-johnw
I hadnt heard of this mod! (how could I have missed it in this slow moving thread?)

so what would you reccomend for the mia frame bl? dd or geared?

might try shaving thetail blades anyway-tail motor was working so hard-it actually loosened in tailcase!(if you have changed them -you know they are in there good!)

btw-notice how their(walkera) stock blade holders-while weak -were ok-now new ones suck-just when they are coming out with alu ones-hmm-makes you think-naw designed obsolescence is a myth right?

mk
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:23 PM
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G10 Frames and Carbon Frames (KITS)

G10 Frames:

Have now the same flex landing gear, first batch had the rigid Struts.

If folks want the rigid ones please specify in your order. Otherwise I am supplying them with the same flex struts as on the carbon frames. WHy? this gives your 4#3 a bit of cushion if you land hard.


The Bearing post is pre-countersunk already for the bearings!, in other words they have the pockets! you don't need to use chanfering or special tools, the only thing that is required is to seat the main bearing post as in the video by shaving a bit off the post bottom edges so that it press fits inside the frame bottom plates, this is really simple to do.

I use the square plastic posts because they allow a SOLID frame construction with the DOUBLE side plates just like real frames are assembled.
As much as I like aluminum parts, these do increase weight.

The present Carbon frame is at 4 gms!, same weight as the plastic frame but you are getting a much better frame in all respects.

Also, both G10 and Carbon frames have more servo mounting holes towards the rear so in case Walkera does come out with a collective version, the mounting to relocate the 2 servos required for CCCPM will be there already!.

Both G10 and Carbon frames come with front and rear Strut locking brackets, this is required for the flex landing gear, and they look really nice.

Remember if you rather have the Stiff LG as in the original G10 Frames of about 2 weeks ago, then indicate this and I will send you this version instead, but I recommend the newer design, only because the struts flex like the stock wire stuts.

Stiffy or Flex Struts on the G10 (PLease specify)
Flex on the Carbon ones.

John,

They are coming along slowly but nicely. I will shoot you an ermail tomorrow afternoon.


Thanks.
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:26 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
I hadnt heard of this mod! (how could I have missed it in this slow moving thread?)

so what would you reccomend for the mia frame bl? dd or geared?

might try shaving thetail blades anyway-tail motor was working so hard-it actually loosened in tailcase!(if you have changed them -you know they are in there good!)

btw-notice how their(walkera) stock blade holders-while weak -were ok-now new ones suck-just when they are coming out with alu ones-hmm-makes you think-naw designed obsolescence is a myth right?

mk
if your having problems with your tail motor just convert to a geared tail.
i fly both and honestly they are almost the same temp. geared or dd.
-johnw
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:30 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
sorry Mario!

I misunderstood your video-I thought we had to chamfer bearing seats-while an easy task-takes a good eye and or machining skills-easy for some people to mess up-for very critical part!

I do like the square plastic posts-for very reason you stated

so spring design is the straight l/g? curved is old design?

I liked look of curved l/g better -but will sacrifice looks for quality and durability any day!


oops,sorry to mis understand
also since I am getting g10 frame-what is my weight penalty-havent seen weight of g10 fully loaded?

mk
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:33 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
sorry Mario!

I misunderstood your video-I thought we had to chamfer bearing seats-while an easy task-takes a good eye and or machining skills-easy for some people to mess up-for very critical part!

I do like the square plastic posts-for very reason you stated

so spring design is the straight l/g? curved is old design?

I liked look of curved l/g better -but will sacrifice looks for quality and durability any day!


oops,sorry to mis understand

mk
Quality is the same! They look and perform differently is all.
just to clear that one up....lol.
-johnw
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:35 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
G10 fully loaded with heatsink on main motor and stock canopy 53g to 54g. Geared or DD tail they weigh the same.
-johnw
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
I hadnt heard of this mod! (how could I have missed it in this slow moving thread?)

so what would you reccomend for the mia frame bl? dd or geared?

might try shaving thetail blades anyway-tail motor was working so hard-it actually loosened in tailcase!(if you have changed them -you know they are in there good!)

btw-notice how their(walkera) stock blade holders-while weak -were ok-now new ones suck-just when they are coming out with alu ones-hmm-makes you think-naw designed obsolescence is a myth right?

mk
MK,
I shaved my tail 1/32 from the trailing edge, but bear in mind this is with my longer boom and frame setup.

The reason behind this is that you have a longer moment arm and we are no longer using so much tail rotor torque (like in a geared setup with a larger blade or higher pitch), but speed to keep up with the main rotor. This is what SWILSON is talking about in his post, thanks Stan for confirming this, and my tail motor too, gets warm, not hot and, I think I have done the same thing with the lip test after testing with the side of my pinky.

I am still flying the same stock setup in DD wth the same motors since I started this project.

This is why I made the G10 and Carbon Frame kits with DD tail holders and with the longer boom, supplied regarles of how you chosse to install, either DD or Geared.

Now there are differences in motor manufacturing from one batch to another, just like there are, in other products like tiles for instance, one batch will be a diferent color than the other batch.. and so we just have to deal with this slight difference, there should be minimal.

The way to test for optimum motors is to put them on a test jig and measure thrust , amps drawn, voltage, resistance and cycle times, this can get pretty tedious and time consuming, I rarely rely on the written specifications, because these will not always be exact. But it is easier to simply try a few motors. The thing you will notice, for instance, lack of performance and tail drifting is when the motor is about to go and this normally is cured by a new one.

OK, so much for DD, if you want to use the stock gear box, stick with the stock but less rigid and smaller diameter 4#3 carbon boom and double up on the heat shrink tubing at one end, for a press fit into the G10 or Carbon frame. You have this option open.

Yes, confirming the ball bearing pockets are already there for the bearings, on the main post. So simply lay the ball bearing flat on a table and gently press the post over it. You can do this right before assemblng the LG section with the frame already assembled. or you can do it after. Doesn't matter.
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:42 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
thanx

quality wasnt in question,just design factors-straight l/g looks like honeybee fp, curved looks like most 450 size!

if same material-would choose curved over straight just for shock absorbtion if nothing else

mk
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:52 PM
I HOOVER because I SUCK!
Portland,Oregon U.S.A.
Joined Sep 2007
5,141 Posts
well being reasonably new at this I will of course take the more experienced persons advice!

I usually fly even stock on longer boom just for longer moment arm.

in other thread I post how I experiment with 6 different booms-stock length,+1/2",and +1"-each in cf and alu

found of all those-1/2" over stock cf boom will solve most tail problems

but motor is still working hard-just by sound i can tell I thought

but If you have stats saying it is as effiecint as geared -then who am I to argue!

so will just try both(would have anyway)-but love sucking up your knowledge !

sorry if I sounded ornery-but I am working on speculation and not enough empirical evidence

will wait for results

have fun flights!

mk
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:54 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by microkites
thanx

quality wasnt in question,just design factors-straight l/g looks like honeybee fp, curved looks like most 450 size!

if same material-would choose curved over straight just for shock absorbtion if nothing else

mk
curved = stiffer=no shock absorbtion, strait=flex= shock absorbtion
-johnw
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Old Apr 17, 2008, 11:58 PM
Tucson,AZ
Joined Dec 2007
4,371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioIArguello
G10 Frames:

Have now the same flex landing gear, first batch had the rigid Struts.

If folks want the rigid ones please specify in your order. Otherwise I am supplying them with the same flex struts as on the carbon frames. WHy? this gives your 4#3 a bit of cushion if you land hard.


The Bearing post is pre-countersunk already for the bearings!, in other words they have the pockets! you don't need to use chanfering or special tools, the only thing that is required is to seat the main bearing post as in the video by shaving a bit off the post bottom edges so that it press fits inside the frame bottom plates, this is really simple to do.

I use the square plastic posts because they allow a SOLID frame construction with the DOUBLE side plates just like real frames are assembled.
As much as I like aluminum parts, these do increase weight.

The present Carbon frame is at 4 gms!, same weight as the plastic frame but you are getting a much better frame in all respects.

Also, both G10 and Carbon frames have more servo mounting holes towards the rear so in case Walkera does come out with a collective version, the mounting to relocate the 2 servos required for CCCPM will be there already!.

Both G10 and Carbon frames come with front and rear Strut locking brackets, this is required for the flex landing gear, and they look really nice.

Remember if you rather have the Stiff LG as in the original G10 Frames of about 2 weeks ago, then indicate this and I will send you this version instead, but I recommend the newer design, only because the struts flex like the stock wire stuts.

Stiffy or Flex Struts on the G10 (PLease specify)
Flex on the Carbon ones.

John,

They are coming along slowly but nicely. I will shoot you an ermail tomorrow afternoon.


Thanks.
Thanks Mario,
I hope you can get them to me this weekend so i can have some fun!
cheers,
-johnw
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