Nice work Mario, but.... the swash looks like it can only move about 1mm before the link guides hit it... How does it behave with 45 degree flybar? I thought it only worked for a co-axial.

-Oobly

Mario,
i just looked at the pic of your head set up. wow when can i get that whole set up?
today.....lol. give me a buzz when you get a chance.
thanks, johnw

Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ

Mario,
i tried using the tail prop from one of my micron v2 helis.
this seems to balance out some of the tail drift problem. i am using the micron tail prop on both greared and DD MAI's.
are you going to sell these new mods from your last post?
-johnw

The tail prop from the Micron does have quite a bit of pitch,and it will put out more thrust, reason they use that with a direct drive motors. I tried this prop also but on my stock setup I kep the stock walkera prop. Maybe with the Losi motor setup and geared, as I think, you have it on one of the pictures of your Brushless mods. That should work nicely.

Yes the mods for the 6mm motro tube holders for DD, yes these and The uniflybar will be available at my page this we. The other pieces for the semi-autostable setup can be built from walera coaxial parts so no point in me making parts they already have in aluminum. The links are easy to make you just need to have a combination of links, parts from both 5G6 and 4#3.

Originally Posted by oobly

Nice work Mario, but.... the swash looks like it can only move about 1mm before the link guides hit it... How does it behave with 45 degree flybar? I thought it only worked for a co-axial.

-Oobly

Yes this needs to be impoved by raising the antirotation arm further up, but because this semi-autostable system does not require large amounts of control, thus the swahplate only pivots a very very samall amount. But yes the anti-rotation arm should be moved up, and I will move it up, when I have a little more time to do it. But the system works, but it takes patience because working with those little screws on the Walkera aluminum heads is a pain!.

The 45 flybar changes the cyclic control timing of the whole rotor head, since it is coupled to the main rotor, it acts to stabilize the rotor system further. I can explain it better in a video with the actual setup. There are many helicopters out that use the 45 degree flybar to the main rotor to do exactly that, but mainly this has been employed in 2 channel toys and mostly in coaxial helis because they do not require the added complexity of controlling a flybar from the swashplate. But this can also be done on a regular tail rotor heli.

Vids!! :d

Mario,
the Micron tail prop corrects the drift problem i was having. this set up is with the stock motors not losi. the DD and geared MIA's are now flying well with the micron tail prop. maybe you can do a video on your head set up and install?
thanks, johnw

Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ

Mario,
the Micron tail prop corrects the drift problem i was having. this set up is with the stock motors not losi. the DD and geared MIA's are now flying well with the micron tail prop. maybe you can do a video on your head set up and install?
thanks, johnw

Great job John! I like that Micron Prop for various other little applications but if its working for you, as explained, even better. Sounds cool.

Yes, I will have a video fo the Head assembly next.

got mine all ready but just need my esc form ebay and screws for the losi brushless, soo some ppl already have this new frame and got it running, but no vids yet? bring on the vids

Originally Posted by LexusIS300

got mine all ready but just need my esc form ebay and screws for the losi brushless, soo some ppl already have this new frame and got it running, but no vids yet? bring on the vids

my camera broke so no vids yet, sorry.
-johnw

Ok here is a video I did with the Help of my son.
This video shows the Semi-Automatic Stabilizer system I have employed on my Walkera 4#3, of course along with the other upgrades.

I must mention that the aluminum parts for the rotor head do add weight and flight times will be less than with the stock setup.

If you simply go with the MIA G10 frame and Stock motors and Equipment with direct drive, you should have very minimal flight differences, as with the sotck Walkera out fo the box, before any mods.

The way I have it set up, in particular with the MIA G10 frame and the longer boon, fins, canopy, decals stickers, and direct drive really make flying this little guy a lot more enjoyable.

MIA - Walkera Video 1

Walkera 4#3 Micro Helicopter Upgrades - 45 Degree Flybar - Stabilizer !!! (2 min 0 sec)

Mario,
that looks awesome. i want everthing you have in the video. PLEASE make all those upgrades available. you have a hit! those blades sound great and look stiff when can i get all those parts from you?
-johnw

Lots of control, but how does it handle in FF. Does it slow it down, does it pitch up? etc..

Originally Posted by whilrybird

Lots of control, but how does it handle in FF. Does it slow it down, does it pitch up? etc..

Excellent question.

Here are the options:

Typical Flybar (90 Degres with the Main Blades)
Total maeuvers freedom. First time pilots may have a hard time, especially with tiny helicopters.

Semi Auto-Stable (Flybar at 45 degrees with the Main Blades)
Has almost autostable stability, allows some but not total ease of FFF, Preferrred for somone learning to fly, that still wants a good degree of control, great for indoor confined areas, allows nose in practice, but still requires a bit pf piloting skill.

Fully Auto-Stable (Coxial with flybar at 45 degrees with the top blades)Control to bottom blades in direct control.

Has close to total autostability. Great for Beginner Pilots wanting a simple system. Nose in? Very easy.

One of the features of having a "too much of an autostable system" is that the heli wants to pitch up "balloon" when you want to push it forward fast, same thing happens with coaxial helis and even with some cambered blades on regular fixed pitch micros. I have minimized this on my setup by going with my own woodies flat bottom. But with the system the way I have it it wants to autostabilize itself the minute you let go of the controls.

Mario,
what about G-10 material mainblades? would that be too heavy?
-johnw

Originally Posted by johnIn2SonAZ

Mario,
what about G-10 material mainblades? would that be too heavy?
-johnw

This is an option, very similar to carbon blades, G10 is great too when formed or molded, but depends on weight of material, and the thickness. I've formed some very thin G10 blades like for the tail of Sub Micro helis and they work very well, durable too. But I like woodies, for the main blades. I just like them because they are forgiving and cheap to make. I also like the way my helis feel with them. A personal choice, perhaps.

I don't like cambered blades, except on tail rotors, because of the effect I mentioned in my previous post.