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Old Jul 22, 2008, 09:56 AM
Good thing balsa floats!
Rain City Flyer's Avatar
Seattle
Joined Sep 2001
770 Posts
Boom source

Just wanted to provide a link to a great supplier I use here in Seattle:

http://www.goodwindskites.com/merch/...kyshark&srch=1

They have Avia, Skyshark, pultruded CF, you name it.

Enjoy!

Chris in Seattle
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 10:27 AM
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Frans Bal's Avatar
Vlaardingen, The Netherlands
Joined Feb 2004
613 Posts
Hi Nightowl,

If 'have send you an Email of an earlier revision B (dutch)
It's chopped up in A4 PDF prints.
Hope this helps.

If you are buying a Skyshark boom try to get a 3P, 2P is a bit flexible.

Frans
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 02:17 PM
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Corona, CA
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Here are my sanding templates. I used some polycarbonate sheet I had lying around...just because.
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 02:40 PM
Torn 'twixt buildin' and flyin
TheNightowl's Avatar
United States, TX, Austin
Joined Oct 2007
7,171 Posts
Got the A4 tiled .pdf files, Frans! Thanks! Have done a lot of taping pages together for full-sized plans over the past five years or so, since I moved out here to the middle of nowhere! (I'm just too computer illiterate to figure out how to format them in A4 tiles myself!)

Good link, Rain City Flyer. I think $10 for a tapered carbon tube is about the lowest cost I've seen.

I usually make rib templates out of 1/32nd or 1/16th ply (depends on how big a chord and depth we're talking about; I fly freeflight too, small stuff sometimes), stacking a bunch of balsa blanks between them, and sanding a set of ribs to shape all at once, so this method just uses a "thicker" blank than I usually use!

Thanks to everyone for all the great information and help!
Nightowl
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Old Jul 22, 2008, 09:19 PM
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Corona, CA
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Hey, Night Owl, please ignore my boom measurement. I just found out that the plan printed out very slightly large. The person at Kinko's must have assumed this was some standard AISI print, and used that scaling. Anyway, I discovered this error by putting my sanding templates against the plan. My templates were printed out using Profili, because I like the fine lines. But the ribs are short by about 1/8". So, if you use your pieced together plan, you should be fine.

I'm going to use the rib templates from the plan, and make new ones. No point in to trying to scale everything down. May as well build exactly per plan, even if it is a bit large. Should fly even better.

So, this will be a true 40" plane, rather than 39.37", which is what 1000 millimeters is. Before dihedral, of course.
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Old Jul 23, 2008, 03:16 PM
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South Africa
Joined Oct 2004
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I used a carbon fibre arrow I got from the sports store. It might be a little heavy (I need to buy an electronic scale) but since this is my first DLG, it should be fine?

I've got the pod pretty much built, the tail is done except control surfaces. Just need to install the servos and she is ready for her maiden.

Any advice on throwing techniques for newbie? Thanks
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Old Jul 23, 2008, 05:42 PM
Torn 'twixt buildin' and flyin
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United States, TX, Austin
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I almost didn't notice, but when I opened the tiled .pdf files, they wanted to print at 105%. I changed all 15 pages (5 sheets wide by 3 "rows") to print at 100%, and the boom length on mine came out at exactly 20 inches. Given the crudeness of my measuring devices, the ID of the boom could be called 1/4 inch. (I'm sure this was all designed in metric measurements, though, and I don't have a metric ruler handy so can't tell you what it would be in those units.)

Nightowl
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Old Jul 23, 2008, 06:31 PM
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Corona, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ikarus2000
Any advice on throwing techniques for newbie? Thanks
I think watching someone who knows what they're doing helps a lot. There are a lot of videos on Youtube. Then, you just have to practice a lot. Don't worry, practice is fun.
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Old Jul 26, 2008, 10:20 AM
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Corona, CA
Joined Sep 2007
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Okay, slowly coming along. I felt uneasy about the crush strength of my rolled boom, so I spiral wrapped some carbon tow on the big end, where booms tend to fail. It added a bit less than a gram, and the weight is on the end that would do the least harm. The boom now weighs 8.2 grams.
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Old Jul 26, 2008, 07:47 PM
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Corona, CA
Joined Sep 2007
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Cutting these thick chunks of balsa got me thinking. If I can't get really light balsa, perhaps I can glue up some heavier balsa sheet, and leave a couple channels down the middle. With a single spar in the middle, I should be able to have two trapezoidal channels to the fore and aft of the spar, and get significant weight savings. I see two main benefits:

1. I can use thinner sheets, which are cheaper.
2. I can use heavier sheets, which are not only cheaper, but they are more readily available.

I need to try this out with the next project.
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Old Jul 27, 2008, 12:33 AM
Torn 'twixt buildin' and flyin
TheNightowl's Avatar
United States, TX, Austin
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr._Mulligan
Cutting these thick chunks of balsa got me thinking. If I can't get really light balsa, perhaps I can glue up some heavier balsa sheet, and leave a couple channels down the middle. With a single spar in the middle, I should be able to have two trapezoidal channels to the fore and aft of the spar, and get significant weight savings. I see two main benefits:

1. I can use thinner sheets, which are cheaper.
2. I can use heavier sheets, which are not only cheaper, but they are more readily available.

I need to try this out with the next project.
Kind of like a "double-D-box," fore and aft, construction? Only the aft part wouldn't be a "D" box. Don't know what you'd call it.

I was actually thinking of something along the lines of shaping the wing, but then cutting out "sections," behind the high point, to leave "pseudo ribs," then covering the wing with tissue or ultralight covering. (Because the curve of the forward part of the airfoil is so much more important as a component of the airfoil, whereas aft of the high point is often pretty much a straight line, a solid or sheeted construction before the high point is almost necessary. Covering pulled taut between the ribs, LE and spar cap tend to corrupt the airfoil between the ribs.) In appearance, it would look a lot like a sheeted D-box to the eye, but without all the fiddly little bits. It'd be heavier than D-box construction, but presumably significantly lighter than a solid wing as you could probably lose up to 75% of the volume of balsa behind the high point (that's a guesstimated figure).
Nightowl
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Old Jul 27, 2008, 12:56 AM
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I looked at the thread in Dutch, and some people cut out big circular blind holes at the bottom of the wing and covered the holes. Since the holes do not break through to the top, the top of the airfoil is preserved.
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Old Jul 27, 2008, 03:48 PM
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Old Jul 27, 2008, 03:49 PM
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South Africa
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Looking very good guys! Mine is also coming on nicely, I'll post some pics later this week. I cant wait for the maiden!
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