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Old Sep 12, 2010, 03:27 AM
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Frans Bal's Avatar
Vlaardingen, The Netherlands
Joined Feb 2004
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no, there's no MiMi with ailerons.
Send me and PM with E-mail address and I will send you the plans (PDF only)

Frans
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 10:02 AM
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Joined May 2005
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Plus 1!

One more to the growing number of Mimis... Frans, thanks for coming up with the plans and distributing them!



while waiting for a Rx to plug in i used some lead to balance the CG and found that i need 50g! That'll work out to be 10+g of lead after Rx and a 30g 4.8v 1/3AAA, more if i use 3.6v...

Flying wt will come to abt 210g!!! Gosh!



Ok, i did put in a few mods

#1 Ailerons. Dihedral was decreased to 4deg on each wing



#2 I used a slightly different tail feather i cut out from another project. And i made the mistake of leaving too much epoxy behind when glassing it with 0.75oz lite cloth.


I'm having problems tying the knots for the pull/spring... can anyone point me to a good reference?

Cheers!
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Last edited by gEcky; Sep 13, 2010 at 10:11 AM. Reason: fixed bad link for photos
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 11:44 AM
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RWCLOUD's Avatar
Fresno CA
Joined Jul 2006
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I use a modified Palomar knot

http://www.netknots.com/html/palomar_knot.html

Instead of putting the whole airplane through the loop, I just put the two ends through and cinch it up, does the same thing. Fishermen can't put their rod and reel through it and we can't put the whole airplane through it

Nice Mimi! But watch the tail weight! Way over kill and weight. For every gram of excess weight on the tail you increase the overall weight by 5 grams! Build the tail as Frans designed it and see if you don't lose at least 25 to 30 grams!

Blue Skies......................Tim
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 12:52 PM
If it flies, I will crash it
mxspode's Avatar
USA, CO, Westminster
Joined Jan 2008
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I have always used a Clinch myself, no worries about looping anything. By the way nice link Tim, that one should come in handy. Have to agree on the wieght issue as well. Learned that lesson on my QFII. Tried to make sure my tail feathers were plenty strong and ended up plenty heavy. Hate adding lead to anything. Seems to be a lesson that every builder has to learn though.

Rob...
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 01:25 PM
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Fresno CA
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I'm using Spiderwire, both for DLG's and fishing. The first knot that I tried was the clinch knot. Spiderwire is so slippery that it just slid right off my hook! So I went back and did some research and found the Palomar knot. Perhaps the line that you use is different and a clinch knot will work. But if it does not then give the Palomar knot a try,isn't that hard and bulletproof.

My question is: How do you adjust the strings? I put the string through the servo arm then wrap it around the servo arm screw with a small plywood washer on the screw and tighten it down.While it does work adjusting it later after the first flights is a pain and the servos need to be mounted upright. If they are laying down on their sides the screw is not accessible and no way to adjust. If you reverse the tying and adjust at the control horn the no way to undo the Palomar knot with spiderwire.

Or should I use another line?
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Last edited by RWCLOUD; Sep 13, 2010 at 01:35 PM. Reason: forgot to ask my question
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 06:04 PM
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NFBrown's Avatar
United States, ID, Boise
Joined Jan 2010
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I drilled two small holes in the fuse sides, one for each servo screw so I can adjust the strings.

Nick
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 06:58 PM
winds light to variable
Kookaburra's Avatar
Joined Apr 2009
989 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RWCLOUD View Post
I'm using Spiderwire, both for DLG's and fishing.
RW - what breaking strain are you using for aircraft applications?
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 08:07 PM
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I have the same problem as Tim, adjusting the line lengths.I figured it'll be easier to adjust on the horn side as it's more accessible... just need to find the right knot that doesn't slip once tightened.A 0.5mm slip probably translate to 10-15deg of deflection on the control surface.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 11:21 PM
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Fresno CA
Joined Jul 2006
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I'm using 20pound test, mostly because it was laying here. It's .008 dia. Way over kill! I don't see why 8 pound wouldn't work, but when I went to the store they were out the last time that I looked.

Yep a small slip makes a large deflection! I already striped out the threads on a D4.7 servo, so I replaced the screw with a HS55 screw. Maybe the answer is using Kevlar thread instead. I mean whats a few bucks for piece of mind?

Blue Skies...................Tim
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Old Sep 14, 2010, 02:57 AM
If it flies, I will crash it
mxspode's Avatar
USA, CO, Westminster
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWCLOUD View Post
I'm using Spiderwire, both for DLG's and fishing. The first knot that I tried was the clinch knot. Spiderwire is so slippery that it just slid right off my hook! So I went back and did some research and found the Palomar knot. Perhaps the line that you use is different and a clinch knot will work. But if it does not then give the Palomar knot a try,isn't that hard and bulletproof.

My question is: How do you adjust the strings? I put the string through the servo arm then wrap it around the servo arm screw with a small plywood washer on the screw and tighten it down.While it does work adjusting it later after the first flights is a pain and the servos need to be mounted upright. If they are laying down on their sides the screw is not accessible and no way to adjust. If you reverse the tying and adjust at the control horn the no way to undo the Palomar knot with spiderwire.

Or should I use another line?
Funny thing about fisherman, and I don't do that much these days but they all have there preferences. I have never used SpiderWire, usually Stern's and I use leader for this application. Seems to work OK.

For adjusting I use a sewing needle. That's right, a sewing needle. Just tie the servo end to a needle then clip of the pointed end. Slip the needle through an EZ-Adjuster at the servo horn then adjust the surface and tighten the lock screw and your there. I have only tried this setup once on a small v-tail slopper I built but it worked out real well.

Rob...
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Old Sep 14, 2010, 07:14 AM
Balsa for me, thanks.
irish_lord99's Avatar
Yalova, Turkey
Joined May 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxspode View Post
Funny thing about fisherman, and I don't do that much these days but they all have there preferences. I have never used SpiderWire, usually Stern's and I use leader for this application. Seems to work OK.

For adjusting I use a sewing needle. That's right, a sewing needle. Just tie the servo end to a needle then clip of the pointed end. Slip the needle through an EZ-Adjuster at the servo horn then adjust the surface and tighten the lock screw and your there. I have only tried this setup once on a small v-tail slopper I built but it worked out real well.

Rob...
Yep, that's what I use for my mini and micro pull-pull as well (for larger I use a cotter pin). Works very well, and is much more precise than a knot.

Hey Gecky,

Nice Mimi! Can't wait for a flight report. I've been thinking that if I eventually build one I'd like to do one with ailerons, can I ask what you used for hinging them? I usually use point hinges, but I wonder if something a little looser might be better for such a large aileron with light weight servos? Also, how wide did you make the ailerons?

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

~Jake
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Old Sep 14, 2010, 10:42 AM
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Fresno CA
Joined Jul 2006
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I don't have room for an EZ-adjuster in my pod. I built my pod as small as posible. But I wonder if the pod were as Frans designed it if an EZ-adjuster would fit in?

Blue Skies...............Tim
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Old Sep 14, 2010, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irish_lord99 View Post
Yep, that's what I use for my mini and micro pull-pull as well (for larger I use a cotter pin). Works very well, and is much more precise than a knot.

Hey Gecky,

Nice Mimi! Can't wait for a flight report. I've been thinking that if I eventually build one I'd like to do one with ailerons, can I ask what you used for hinging them? I usually use point hinges, but I wonder if something a little looser might be better for such a large aileron with light weight servos? Also, how wide did you make the ailerons?

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

~Jake
Hi Jake,

will give a flight report when i give it the first toss probably over the weekend

I extended the TE strip of balsa to 35mm (wing cord remain unchanged), then cut out 25mm for ailerons after wings are built (oh, my mimi is a built up wing version). Hinge is covering material on top/bottom. For gliders, we like to seal the hinges anyway so this method works best for me.

I'm using budget 3.7g HK servos all round. Ailerons servos are embeded fore of the spar with bottom wing skins cut out. Prior to cutting out the servo pocket, i applied a layer of 0.75oz glass on the bottom skin to beyond R2 and soak it with thin CA. This will hopefully maintain the strength of the bottom wing skins and eliminate stress risers from around the cut-outs.
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Old Sep 15, 2010, 02:38 AM
Balsa for me, thanks.
irish_lord99's Avatar
Yalova, Turkey
Joined May 2007
835 Posts
Thanks for the reply, I had thought about hinging with covering material too... but I use almost primarily doculam due to not being able to find anything else in Turkey and I'm not sure if that would be strong enough. I'll have to do some tests and see.

Thanks again,
Jake
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Old Sep 15, 2010, 05:07 AM
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Doculam works well as a covering material but the adhesive is rather weak compared to main stream ones... U could just use clear tape for hinging then, use doculam jus for covering.

Cheers!
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