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Old Feb 26, 2013, 07:16 PM
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If you plug a known-good battery (one you've been using without issues) directly into the balance ports, and plug in the main discharge leads, is it any better?

If not, and it's been working OK, I'd suspect something's wrong with the charger.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 07:20 PM
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It would be nice if these chargers had factory/system reset sort of thing where you hold down some buttons or whatever on power-up.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoNavy93 View Post
It would be nice if these chargers had factory/system reset sort of thing where you hold down some buttons or whatever on power-up.
Load a default memory setting if you havent used all 10 of them.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 08:07 PM
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Load a default memory setting if you havent used all 10 of them.
Good idea! I don't use the memories anyway.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by evltoy View Post
Hi Guys...

...Is there a way to clibrate the input volgate reading on the chargers? I know you can clibrate output cell voltage readings.

Thanks
evltoy
Off course, there is! I've a 106B Plus with 3.14 firmware, but I think that is the same with the other BC.
Prepare Your charger, Your Power Supply (and Your battery, if You want to calibrate everything).
Let's measure the PS output voltage.
Press all the four buttons togheter on Your iCharger and then electrify Your iCharger.
You'll ear four "beep": immediately after the fourth "beep" release the buttons.
If You don't release the buttons immediately after the beep, it will appears a write on display "Junsi...n. xxxxxxxxxxxx" with the serial number and You have to restart operation.
If You have released the buttons in time, You'd have a normal display page.
Press and hold for three seconds the "Stop" button: now You'd have a display page with "Vi xx.xxV" - "Int xx " - "Vo 0.00V" - "Ext 0"
Let's press togheter and hold for three seconds the three buttons "Dec", "Inc" and "Start".
Now You'd have the "Vi" blinking and showing alternatively the setted amount and the calibration amount.
With the "Inc" and "dec" buttons You can now set the correct amount that You've measured before, with Your precision multimeter.
If You want to calibrate also "Vo", let's measure Your Lipo battery, then connect it to the BC.
Press "Start" button and it will start to blink the "Vo" amount; let's do the same and correct it.
If You want to calibrate also single cell amount, You had to connect both, the Lipo power plug and the lipo calibrating plug, then press "Stop" and the display will stop blinking.
Let's press "Inc" button for a little and You'd have the cell's voltage page.
Press and hold for three seconds the same three buttons (dec, inc, start) and it will start to blink the first amount, press start again to move between cells amount, press "Stop" to end.


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Old Feb 27, 2013, 04:47 AM
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Ricky971

This info is GOLD! Thank you for taking out the time to explain this to me.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 04:57 AM
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It's a pleasure! I think that this is the reason because Forums exist.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoNavy93 View Post
Have you tried manually setting it to 2S instead of letting it auto-detect the cell count?
Yes, but no luck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctobyr View Post
If you plug a known-good battery (one you've been using without issues) directly into the balance ports, and plug in the main discharge leads, is it any better?
Nope, it didn't worked.

I guess I have to send it back in warranty.

Thanks for your help!
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 08:33 AM
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iCharger 206 with P350 supply

Hi guys, complete newbie here at his first post, please have mercy! I am shopping for my first Bixler 2 build and I want to buy the iCharger 206B with the P350 power supply.

http://www.progressiverc.com/icharger-206b.html
http://www.progressiverc.com/p350-power-supply.html

However, the specs for the 206B say:
"Maximum charge power capacity: 300W (@ input voltage > 18V)"

And in the specs for the P350:
"Output voltage: 15V DC"

Does this mean that I cannot get the full 300W out of the 206B with that power supply?

I don't think I will need anywhere near that in this moment, but I am trying to look down the road a bit.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 08:45 AM
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Welcome!

That's correct, you won't get the full 300W out of the charger with 15V. Depending on what you plan to charge, that may not be an issue just yet. If you're only going to be pulling 200W (as an example, which would be 16A for 3S), you're fine for now.

Depending on budget, and how much DIY you're willing to entertain, you can buy/make a much more powerful power supply than that 350W, for less money.

A pair of used HP DPS-600PB server power supplies, wired in series, will give you 24V, 47A, 1150W. You can buy them for about $30 shipped, from eBay. Solder some wires on, connect some pins together, and do a ground modification, and you're in business. There are excellent instructions in this thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1581061

You can also start with just 1 for 12V, 47A, 575W, for $15, for now. The modifications are simpler when just running 1 (no need for the ground modification, so you don't have to open the cases on the supplies). The modifications sound harder than they actually are. If you can use a soldering iron, you can modify a single supply pretty readily. You could add a second later when you need the higher voltage, to achieve the full 300W output. You can modify two yourself for probably about $40-50, depending on what you spend on wire and connectors.

You can also buy them pre-modified for our use. Figure ~$60 or so for one, for 12V, more like $120 for two, for 24V. feathermerchantrc.com is one vendor, mrforsyth on this forum also does them, there are options as well.

Just an option that could give you more power for less money than a commercial hobby supply.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 09:08 AM
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24v/47a would "only" be 1128 watts
12v/47a would "only" be 564 watts

I build and sell 24v/41a/984w units with a handle, switch, and single AC cord conversions ready to hook up to your charger and use for less than $100 shipped within the lower 48 states.

Feathermerchant is a great guy to buy from as well.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmie Neutron View Post
24v/47a would "only" be 1128 watts
12v/47a would "only" be 564 watts

I build and sell 24v/41a/984w units with a handle, switche, and single AC cord conversions ready to hook up to your charger and use for less than $100 shipped within the lower 48 states.
Dang, wish I'd known that. I just dropped $70 for a second converted and DC isolated HP server power supply. I want my 1000+W.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 05:52 PM
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Just... wow.

RedOctobyr, if yours is not the most awesome, clear, exhaustive and welcoming reply ever to a first post, I don't know what is.

Thanks a lot for the info, I'll think about if the P250 is enough for now and look into the alternatives.
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gayo View Post
When I plug everything, the screen says "Bal. Low". If I try to force the charge, the charger stops and shows:
BALANCE PORT
CELL LOW VOL
1: 3.90____3.95____0.95
Please check the PM we have sent to you.

Junsi
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 11:47 AM
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Is there a REPAIR contact in the USA ?

I just plugged in my TRUSTY and LOVED 206b and ...
IT PULLED DOWN THE POWER SUPPLY.

Bottom case felt hot so I opened it up and check for the usual stuff,
No bulged electrolytics, no burned traces, no popped chips no obvious shorts.
I have NOT looked under the LCD YET

But the TRF1404 or TRF3205's are the big boys where it's getting HOT !

There IS a trace between the 1404 and 1st 3205 that looks Shorted but possibly by design.
You cant see it unless you Bend up those two TO220's
It's a feed thru next to a large Diagonal trace.

Spoz I could LEAVE the PS plugged in and wait till something POPS ! NOT !!!

Anyone ???

Thanks

Bob
Hoosier Cutout Service
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