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Old Feb 15, 2013, 07:50 AM
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LiFe and Lifepo4 on your charger is the same thing select LiFe and charge.
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 02:34 PM
Too windy to fly? Lets surf
w1nd6urfa's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2008
484 Posts
Apologies if this has been covered before, did a brief search without success.

After 2 years of loyal service my 106B+ suddenly froze today, will not boot or display menu.

Is it curable or terminal?

.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 02:11 AM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForsheeMS View Post
Really not sure on your charging question as I don't have any LiFePO4 batts but version 3.14 is the lastest firmware for the iCharger so you're good there.
That's good to know. Thanks, ForsheeMS. I've had it a while so I wasn't expecting it to be the latest one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Tug View Post
LiFe and Lifepo4 on your charger is the same thing select LiFe and charge.
Good. Thanks, The Tug.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 08:26 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Salisbury
Joined Jul 2011
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FOA junsi - faulty 3010B

Had my 3010B for almost a year & 1/2 and this morning when I went to charge my 2 cell LiFe pack I was greeted with the following screens attached You can't alter the cell count

Another problem I noticed was when trying to charge a 5 cell 2000mAh NiMh pack. I would set the charge rate to 0.3A and the cell count to 5 cells (NiMh mode obviously). When starting to charge the amps ramped up to 30A and the cells up to 25

I have performed a firmware reload (3.14) but still the problem is apparent. I do hope this is an easy fix.

--
Mark
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:55 AM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
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Mark,

It looks like "655.35" is 65535, i.e. 2 to the power of 16, minus 1 - i.e. a binary number made up of sixteen 1s. I'm guessing that's meant as an error code from some subroutine (and also shows the charger represents numbers as hundredths, held in integers). The part of the software that puts it on the display doesn't realise it's an error code and just goes ahead and displays it. The 655 at bottom right is probably the same phenomenon.

Whenever something electronic goes wrong inexplicably, it's worth checking for failed components. The most likely culprits are electrolytic capacitors. They just go wrong with age, and sometimes not very much age. If the circuit board has any (it probably does), just replace the lot, or replace them one by one til it starts working.

If you know it had something untoward happen to it, like a shorted output, or reversed input voltage, it's also worth looking for discrete silicon components that might be fried - diodes, FETs, and so on.

w1nd6urfam,

I've often seen small LCD displays do that. It generally has something to do with wrong voltages, or not being initialised properly - i.e. fed the wrong sequence of instructions after being turned on.

I'm guessing it's to do with the voltage regulator circuit that supplies the micro controller and the display. Again, that might well be a failed electrolytic capacitor, if it just happened after a while, for no reason that you can think of.

If there's a preset pot that adjusts the display contrast, that could be worth checking too, but that would probably make both lines of the display look like the top one. There probably isn't, because it would be cheaper to design it without one.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 10:59 AM
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Italy, Toscana, Orbetello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w1nd6urfa View Post
Apologies if this has been covered before, did a brief search without success.

After 2 years of loyal service my 106B+ suddenly froze today, will not boot or display menu.

Is it curable or terminal?

.
Did You already try to do an upgrade at the last firmware (3.14)?
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 02:55 PM
Too windy to fly? Lets surf
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Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky971 View Post
Did You already try to do an upgrade at the last firmware (3.14)?
Yep, the Updater finds the device but cannot connect to it

Andy2No thanks for the tips, I'll try replacing the capacitors
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 06:14 PM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
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No problem, w1nd6urfa. I hope it works out.

You should probably also check the power supply you're feeding it from - see if it holds enough voltage while powering the charger, or maybe try powering it from a 12V battery (e.g. a car battery or a reasonably large 3s lipo), to eliminate that as a possible cause.

A faulty wall wart power supply could be giving spikes, I guess, which would be hard to check without using a scope. A battery wouldn't have that problem.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 06:15 PM
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United States, CA, Sacramento
Joined Jun 2012
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I have the iCharger 3010B and am balance charging 2S LiPo packs, 300mAh 7.4V (rated at 3C maximum charge rate).

The problem is that it is taking a really long time to charge these packs when charging at 3C. I have the charge current set for 0.9A and the charge takes about 40 minutes, delivering around 340 (mAh?).

I'm guessing the reason is that it is taking a real long time doing the finish-off charge and balance. Is there any way I can make this faster? I'm guessing that in the real world, I don't need to top the batteries off quite so much and that the balance doesn't have to be that close, etc.

Is there a setting I can use that would charge/balance them "good enough" and take something more like 15 - 20 minutes or do I really need a battery that can take substantially more than 3C charge rate?

Thanks,
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 06:31 PM
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United States, MA
Joined Jan 2011
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Something seems odd. What cell voltage are you starting the charge at?

When I fly my 6S 1200mAh packs down to about 3.78-3.8V/cell, a 1C Balance charge on my 106B+ will take me about 40 minutes or so.

If you're putting back 340mAh, into 300mAh packs, you are probably running them down too low. 3.7V/cell is about as low as they should be after flying (and giving them 5-10 minutes to rest). That's about 80% of their capacity, which is about the most you should use, if you want them to last.

But 3C, and still taking that long, for a small 2S pack (ie- balancing should be pretty quick & easy) seems strange.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:36 PM
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I'm not sure about the starting voltage, but I was wondering about the fact that it was putting in more than 300mAh. I assume some of that is due to the fact that the charging system is not 100% efficient, but it did seem rather high all the same.

I will normally be using a timer to make sure I don't over-use the battery, but wasn't using it when getting used to the heli (new Blade 130X).

I do see that when I only fly for 1.5 minutes, the charge cycle is much smaller, like 12-15 minutes. I'll keep a closer watch on my run times and see what that does.

Is there something I can do to reduce the time the charger spends finishing-off the charge/balance cycle? I suppose I can use the charger's fast charge mode, but it doesn't balance in that mode.

Thanks,
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post
I'm not sure about the starting voltage, but I was wondering about the fact that it was putting in more than 300mAh.
Current measurement done by the charger may be a bit off.
What is the balance settings; always, at storage or at CV? If cells have different IR, the case can be that one cell shows higher voltage during charge and is bled by the balancer. Then at the end of the charge, when current drops off, this has to be corrected by the balancer. This can explain the high mAh numbers. Try balance start at CV phase if it's not already set to that.

Fred
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 08:40 AM
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United States, CA, Sacramento
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flarssen View Post
Current measurement done by the charger may be a bit off.
What is the balance settings; always, at storage or at CV? If cells have different IR, the case can be that one cell shows higher voltage during charge and is bled by the balancer. Then at the end of the charge, when current drops off, this has to be corrected by the balancer. This can explain the high mAh numbers. Try balance start at CV phase if it's not already set to that.

Fred
I had Balance Speed set to Slow, so I changed this to Fast.
Lithium Balance On is set to CV Phase
Discharge Reduce is set to ON, 10%
LiPo Termination Voltage is set to 4.20

I was concerned (earlier) with getting every amount of juice into the battery as I could, but now I realize it is better for the batteries if I don't load them up quite so much. Do you think I should adjust any of the above further? Perhaps decreasing the termination voltage or the Discharge Reduce setting?

Thanks again,
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 10:48 AM
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Balance speed fast makes charge terminate earlier, so that may be enough to get lower voltage when charge terminates.

Fred
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 06:20 PM
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United States, MA
Joined Jan 2011
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I decided to change my Termination Voltage to 4.18V from 4.20V. I'd heard that a reduction there might help the lifespan of your LiPos. Some people apparently go to 4.15V or lower. I don't know how much of a difference it actually makes; probably very little

But I've left it there, since it's not hurting anything. Sometime I should try charging from storage to 4.20V, vs, say, 4.15V, to see how much of a mAh difference that actually is.
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