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Old Oct 25, 2011, 10:57 PM
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Thoughs are sure pretty and VERY pricy.

You can use piggy back type banana plugs to power 2 chargers from 1 set of terminals.
Or just make a Y splitter.
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 11:03 PM
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You have to consider the large currents being drawn. Most banana plugs are not rated for more than 20A so stacking them or splicing leads to a single pair of connectors can both lead to overheating problems. If you are drawing 800W @ 24V = 33A. With top quality connectors this might be OK but poor ones could lead to trouble. Using properly crimped ring terminals the risk of overheating the connector is significantly reduced.

With whichever solution you choose, be sure to monitor the connectors and leads for overheating when at high loads.
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 11:07 PM
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progressiverc do offer this useful adapter which is made using 10awg wire. No spec.s are provided for the maximum current.

<EDIT>Spoke to Dave and he has updated the website with the spec.s This cable is rated for 40A.

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Old Oct 26, 2011, 12:00 AM
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Ah, here is one (30V/80A, 2000W @ $550) with QUAD outputs, not cheap though!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-30V-80A-2000W



Or this one (30V/40A, 1000W @ $300) but the secondary outputs are only rated for 17A each:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-30V-40A-1000W


Are most power supplies rated by input or output power?

30 amps times 40 amps would be 700 1200 watts from a power supply rated at 1000 watts. Is this typical or only for ProTek power supplies? With 70% efficiency, it seems you would need a 1500 watt power supply to take full advantage of a 306B or 3010B. This would also be the limit of a typical 15 amp household circuit in the US.

Doh! I messed up my multiplication, it makes more sense now.
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Chocula View Post
Are most power supplies rated by input or output power?
All are rated by output power. Some are extremely optimistic in their ratings. Some can deliver more than rated power.

iCharger DC-DC conversion efficiency is ~90%+ by my measurements so they allow full power output with lower powered supplies than most other chargers. A 306B or 3010B will easily do full power all day long with a 24 volt, 1200 watt supply.

Note that when working at such power levels, power supply power factor (PF) and converter efficiency become EXTREMELY important if you don't want to blow breakers or rewire your home to accommodate.

Mark
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 12:10 AM
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DC power supplies are normally rated by output. If you follow the links you will see the detailed specifications. Those two are variable power-supplies. For example the more detailed specifications for the 1000W unit:

Code:
    Input Voltage: 110-240V
    Output Voltage: 12 - 30V DC (+/- 5%)
    Wattage: 1000W
    Current: 33A @ 30V / 40A @ 12V
    Frequency: 47 / 64Hz
    AC inrush current: Cold start: 60A @ 100%
    Output Connections:
        (1) High output 40 amp 4mm banana plug/binding post output
        (4) 16 amp switched 4mm banana plug outputs
        (1) 500mAh USB output
Hence 33A x 30V = 1000W, 40A x 12V = 480W

Normal guideline is 80% efficient so at 1000W output it would draw 1250W from the AC supply. At 110V that would be 11.4A. However the specifications make no mention of PFC so the AC current at full load could be closer to 19A and thus, as you suggest, too high for a typical 15A household circuit.
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 04:07 AM
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206b failed

Hi guys been having some bad luck of late with electronic products failing , and i am angry about this latest 1
purchased a 206b 8 weeks ago off a usa dealer, after i got my head around the menu
i charged at 5amp and 10 amps lipos on a tiled floor like i have done for 4 years for my savage flux 2s and few 3s turingy 5000 40/50c. power supply i using is a b35 14volt 350watt , today i charged a 2s ,then turned it off plugged a 3s in as normal . turned it back on . and nothing screen blinked and the green back light went out , turned it off and back on, back light
came back on but nothing is working , it flicks the fan on for a split second and flashes the screen every 30 seconds , no buttons work ? nothing .. i been charging lipos for 4 years on a swallow charger with no problems , you buy a product like this icharge
thinking they will be good but NO .for the price i should of just got too imax chargers . what a wast of money ? it sicking to think of the amount of money i have wasted on this rc hobby live and learn i am 42 years old and have good knowledge of brushless and lipos / and have a huge collection rc that all run on lipo brushless i need a high end charger that can charge 2x lipos at once at 10amps . that will last a year or so
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Chocula View Post
-1

While connecting batteries together that are at significantly different states of charge can result in an undesirable amount of current flow...

-Chocula
If one is charged and the other discharged, current can be very high and may destroy a pack...
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by joker custom rc View Post
today i charged a 2s ,then turned it off plugged a 3s in as normal . turned it back on .
Did you power up the charger with the pack connected?
Anyway, just contact the US dealer.

Fred
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 05:44 AM
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just the balance plug for cell reading, main charge wires i connected after switch on.. never the less its a wast of money junk. i feel like smashing it with a hammer , also had a castles sct esc v2 that also failed on the bench after install , not sending a 40 dollars esc back which cast them 10 dollars to make , cost me that much in post .eat it bin it never by the brand a second time ,
and tell every body the same !steer clear all 180 youtube subs ,
i make a list of fail rc products video soon.. is it to hard to make a lipo charger that will last ,
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by everydayflyer View Post
Once again no explanation at all how 3S can be perfect at 4.2 and going to 4S all cells go to 4.26.

Suggesting the owner try charger with more cells does not really help understand what is happening.

Does the charger use some kind of voltage divider network which is only accurate with a certain number of cells.
Just an update -- I watched the 4s charge process today. at 4.19 V the charge current started to drop just as it does with 3s. It fell to about .25A at 4.20 and then inexplicably started rise to about 0.5A and carried on charging till 4.60 again?!...

SO the saga continues
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by joker custom rc View Post
just the balance plug for cell reading, main charge wires i connected after switch on.. never the less its a wast of money junk. i feel like smashing it with a hammer , also had a castles sct esc v2 that also failed on the bench after install , not sending a 40 dollars esc back which cast them 10 dollars to make , cost me that much in post .eat it bin it never by the brand a second time ,
and tell every body the same !steer clear all 180 youtube subs ,
i make a list of fail rc products video soon.. is it to hard to make a lipo charger that will last ,
It's your feeling...
but for the second year I use iCharger 3010B to charge my 12s2p a123 at 20A several times a day, without any problem...
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 06:14 AM
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btw even with ESC connected when my main relay failed...
No I'm using a SPS from Emcotec to disconnect.
The pack is charged in the plane !
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by unhinged View Post
Just an update -- I watched the 4s charge process today. at 4.19 V the charge current started to drop just as it does with 3s. It fell to about .25A at 4.20 and then inexplicably started rise to about 0.5A and carried on charging till 4.60 again?!...

SO the saga continues
Did you try the LiFe program? Do you have a possibility to get some logdata? Makes it easier to see what happens both on charger output and input.

Edit: Knew i sounded familiar, here is a similar case: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=10374


Fred
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Last edited by flarssen; Oct 26, 2011 at 06:51 AM.
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by flarssen View Post
Did you try the LiFe program? Do you have a possibility to get some logdata? Makes it easier to see what happens both on charger output and input.

Edit: Knew i sounded familiar, here is a similar case: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=10374


Fred
Thank you for that piece. I remember reading this, but could not recall that it was exactly what happened to me. Sounds precisely the same. I am also using a PC power supply, but have noticed no drop in voltage, but maybe I should look more closely. I am going to try run another LiFe, but the voltage seems limited to 3.9 max. I also noted that on dropping cut off voltage to 4.1, it terminated closer to 4.3, but I cannot keep on charging the 3s to just 4.1.
Will keep updated.
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Last edited by unhinged; Oct 27, 2011 at 01:13 AM. Reason: further info added
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