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Old Jul 04, 2008, 03:14 PM
Southern Pride
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Haralson County GA. USA
Joined Oct 2004
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From first post

Charge power capability: <200W

Which I asume they mean 200 watts not less than 200 .

To charge a 8S A123 at 10 amps. requires 288 watts output.

200 watt limit would be 6.9 amps.

Charles
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Old Jul 04, 2008, 03:18 PM
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Hm, a "sour" kraut!
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Old Jul 04, 2008, 03:25 PM
Proud to eat Kraut ;-)
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Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everydayflyer
From first post

Charge power capability: <200W

Which I asume they mean 200 watts not less than 200 .

To charge a 8S A123 at 10 amps. requires 288 watts output.

200 watt limit would be 6.9 amps.

Charles
Yes, the current was slowly increased to around 6.9A, and stayed there, before the problems ocurred.

Quote:
Hm, a "sour" kraut!
You bet!

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Old Jul 04, 2008, 03:42 PM
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Joined Oct 2007
11 Posts
Could someone give me some advice please:

I have ordered the USB/TTL module gizmo shown in post #866 for the update (I think this is the one most poeple have bought). Do I need to download drivers from the manufacturers site, and if so which one for Windows XP. They list two, both of which are double -dutch to me. OR, will it run straight away with the updater program from Junsi.

Thanks.
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Old Jul 04, 2008, 06:53 PM
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Townsville
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Julez,

You sound like you have what mine was doing!

I started a "Storage" on my 6cell LiPo pack, and it was going very well for about 2 minutes, sucking the amps at about 0.9A, then I heard the charger beep. I had a look, and it was sitting waiting for my input. I told it to "Storage" again, and after the cell count confirmation, it rebooted almost instantly. That's when I noticed the Powersupply had tripped on overload. So, I reset it, and tried again. Same thing. Next I noticed that if I put a LiPo on the output side, it would power the charger The strange thing is, I was charging/discharging 3cell lipo's all the previous night, then when I went to the 6cell it decided to give up.

Mine's currently in a box on it's way back to HC for a swap, so I'm back to having no charger again

Anyway, at least you got to upgrade your firmware...hehe, I have the TTL board here, but kept getting side tracked by my kids, so the upgrade from 3.04 didn't happen for me. I keep looking at my eStation USB board thinking that maybe it'll do the upgrade. I'll have to do some research on it before I start playing with my new charger, when it arrives....

This minor setback has not deterred me from my endorsement of this charger, it has TONNES of features, some which I will probably never use. I do like the idea of another poster of the next reveision possibly having an SD slot for hosting the firmware and possibly logging charger activity. That would make the unit PERFECT!

--> KegRaider
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Old Jul 04, 2008, 06:58 PM
rgh
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Australia, NSW, Wahroonga
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by questionmark
if there would be commercial leads or what ever you want to call it to charge 3x2s / 3x3s with simple diagram I would buy the leads.
You can get adapter boards & leads for the 1010B here:
http://www.eheli.com.au/store/produc...cat=261&page=1
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Old Jul 04, 2008, 07:20 PM
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Joined Aug 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everydayflyer
From first post

Charge power capability: <200W

Which I asume they mean 200 watts not less than 200 .

To charge a 8S A123 at 10 amps. requires 288 watts output.

200 watt limit would be 6.9 amps.

Charles
Are some of the figures listed in the manual a little optimistic then as it states 7.6A for a 8S LiFe charge?
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Old Jul 04, 2008, 07:41 PM
Southern Pride
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Haralson County GA. USA
Joined Oct 2004
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Post 903 snip

Quote:
Yes, the current was slowly increased to around 6.9A, and stayed there, before the problems ocurred.

Simple math

3.6V(per cell) X 8 =28.8 watts

200 watts (max. output )/ 28.8= 6.9 Amps.

Electrics are all about math.

7.6 would be correct at start of charge when cells are at 3.3.

3.3X8=26.4
200/26.4=7.57

Charles
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Old Jul 04, 2008, 07:45 PM
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Yes I knew you were correct, just wondering why it's listed as 7.6 in the manual...
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Old Jul 04, 2008, 08:18 PM
Southern Pride
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Haralson County GA. USA
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Simple , makes it sound more powerful.
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Old Jul 04, 2008, 10:07 PM
iCharger
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Joined Mar 2007
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Hello

Hello Julian,
Thanks for your feedback and your valuable suggestions.
As for your suggestions, we will take into consideration. Thanks a lot!
Quote:
I noticed the same thing as BlueAngel2000 when comparing the iCharger values with the values of my WattsUp wattmeter: The current displayed on the WattsUp is lower (9.6A with 10A charge current), and the capacity was also 5% lower than what was displayed on the charger. However, the WattsUp may well not be the most precise meter ever made.
As for 9.6A lower than 10.0A, we admit that some of 1010B version 3.04 do have the lower current during verify at the very beginning. Now, we have adjusted the verify procedure again, after adjustment the current can reach 10.0A again.

Quote:
First, I wanted to charge a 8s A123 pack; I set the current to 10A.
When I tried to start the charge, a strange humming could be heard from my 30A power supply, and its fan started to turn. This is totally strange, as the fan is normally temperature controlled.
Sorry to say that there are some other conditions to switch on the fan that not mention in the manual.
Fan ON: Inner temperature>42C() or current >7A, fan last at least two minutes!
Fan OFF: Inner temperature<40C
As the rest problem we have sent you PM, please check!

Thanks,
Junsi
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Old Jul 05, 2008, 03:33 AM
Proud to eat Kraut ;-)
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Germany
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Hello!

First of all, I want to thank Junsi for the fast reply via PM. Unfortunatelly, the problem has not been solved yet.
But upon closer inspection, I noticed that the black shrink wrap from the inductor coil appeared to be punctured by an inner edge of the top casing. The bare copper of a winding was visible, and maybe there was a short circuit between the inductor winding and the charger casing.
I notice similarities to KegRaider's experience.
But my power supply is quite a strong one, so it is possible that it did not trip, but deliver the full current the short circuit was drawing, thus damaging something.
I don't want to spread panic, but if someone from you guys opens his charger for an update, could you check your inductor's clearance to the case?

Quote:
As for 9.6A lower than 10.0A, we admit that some of 1010B version 3.04 do have the lower current during verify at the very beginning. Now, we have adjusted the verify procedure again, after adjustment the current can reach 10.0A again.
Well, the charger reached 10A, this is all fine. But while the charger displayed 10A on it's display, the wattmeter only displayed 9.6A. But take this with a grain of salt, I do not know how accurate the wattmeter is.

Quote:
Sorry to say that there are some other conditions to switch on the fan that not mention in the manual.
Fan ON: Inner temperature>42C() or current >7A, fan last at least two minutes!
Fan OFF: Inner temperature<40C
I am sorry, I wanted to say: The fan of the power supply started to turn. I have this power supply.
I tested it, and normally, the fan only starts after it puts out 30A for several minutes.
I really cannot explain this strange behaviour. Maybe the alleged short circuit between the case and the inductor coil produced strong voltage fluctiations at the charger input with a high frequency, so that the power supply got some erratic behaviour? It was not damaged though, I'm powerig my other chargers from it at the moment.

Quote:
As the rest problem we have sent you PM, please check!
Yes, I got it and answered. Thank you again for your commitment, I really appreciate that.

Could you check with your engineer, what the possible consequences of the inductor/case short circuit would be?

Thanks,

Julez

Edit: One suggestion for improvement:
The graduation of the charge current settings.
Now, the graduation is 10mA from 50mA to 100mA, and 100mA from 100mA to 10A.
I think the steps in the high Amp range are too small.
Over 2A, the steps should be 0,5A, and over 6A, the steps should be 1A.
To be honest, I do not think that someone would chose 8.4A. I think it would be ok if one could chose only 8A or 9A, but one would be able to choose it much faster, without having to walk through the 100mA steps.
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Old Jul 05, 2008, 07:38 AM
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Townsville
Joined Jul 2007
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Sorry Julez,

I cannot check mine, as I sent it back to HC about 12 hours ago.....But great pickup on the hole in the insulation. I'm yet to see the insides of mine My poor power supply can only deliver 7A before I have to turn to the trusty car battery.

As for the 0.5A increments above 2A, I think that maybe leave it to 3A. Most of my packs are 2200mAh, so it would make charging slower for me as I don't go over 1C with my LiPo's. Why not just save a setting and be done with it? Another one of the great features with this charger was, when you removed the power and turned it on the next day, the last menu you were in is displayed again. Including the last rate of charge! That used to annoy the hell out of me with my old iMax B6!!!

Also, does a lipo connected to the output of your charger power it up? That is, without your 30A powersupply driving it all. I think I was just unlucky....

-->KegRaider.
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Old Jul 05, 2008, 07:52 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined May 2006
6,407 Posts
Quote:
Edit: One suggestion for improvement:
The graduation of the charge current settings.
Now, the graduation is 10mA from 50mA to 100mA, and 100mA from 100mA to 10A.
I think the steps in the high Amp range are too small.
Over 2A, the steps should be 0,5A, and over 6A, the steps should be 1A.
To be honest, I do not think that someone would chose 8.4A. I think it would be ok if one could chose only 8A or 9A, but one would be able to choose it much faster, without having to walk through the 100mA steps.
I don't agree with you on this one. I prefer to keep the 100mA precision. I often switch between charging LiPos in the range of 1.0 to 4.5A and A123 at 10A. I find changing the current quite quick and easy enough even with the existing way of working.

I guess what you could do is more like the way some digital clocks work. That is, the longer the increment/decrement button is held down, the larger the step size. So for example, after 10 steps at 100mA, change to 500mA. Once the button is released the increment goes back to 100mA so any overshoot is quick and easy for the user to correct....OK I just went and had a play and really, if you hold the Inc/Dec button down it whizzes through the 100mA steps so fast already that I don't think any change is necessary.

Julez - were you pressing the button once for each step or holding it down ? Certainly I can see that if you were clicking once for each step it would seem very painful.
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Old Jul 05, 2008, 08:42 AM
Registered User
Townsville
Joined Jul 2007
37 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgfly
Hey KeyRaider - Can you post a link or at least a photo so we know what you are talking about ?
I peeled the heatshrink tube from my adaptor board and took a few shots for you to have a look. It may or may not work, as I don't know exactly how it talks to the iMax or eStation chargers. It does however have 3 leads that I'm willing to try

--> KegRaider
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