Hi. I would like to ask for help what to do. I already wrote here. I am very sorry. I have the evil English (google translator).Standard charging LIFE 3s1p 10A max. 22V 4A first 2 days then OK, and then charging 8cell 2100mAh NiMH 0.4A. Then Conection and charging all bateries Conection break down. FMW upgrade ver.3.11 ...not help. Open charger and see.... Capacitator 1000mikroF 35V Tootsie disconnected and scorched.I tried to connect, but it did not help.Send it to Hobbycity the claim is unnecessarily expensive. Meaning me even to try to repair or iCHarger I can throw away? Or can I buy a icharger 208. Please help me.

Originally Posted by natterjak

Thank you Charles. I had noticed that but as it is a recommendation rather than required connection sequence I've continued in my normal modus operandi which is to connect main leads first. I've adopted this as my normal practice as I often charge lipos in parallel and have found that the brief current rush which can briefly flow between lipos connected in parallel is better handled by the main leads than the balance leads, due to their greater current handling capacity.

In any case, I've just tried connecting the battery in the recommended sequence and it does not solve my issue.

However you connect the batteries together main lead wise can still be done first,then the balancing leads to charger then ganged power leads to charger pos. contact first then neg.

Once damage is done by spark then proper sequence is most likely to late to help.

This connection sequence issue has been a problem with many chargers. To make matters worse some want (need(?) it done one way while others the opposite way. There is only one charger that I am aware of which has non of these issues as it makes no electrical connection between the battery and charger until Start is pushed and it first checks for proper connections then starts the charge if all is correct. Even this super smart charger can be connected one way that will blow a fuse in it.


Charles

I hadn't appreciated that connecting the leads in a sequence other than the recommended one can cause damage to the charger, except under the specific circumstances mentioned in Junsi's first post of this thread - ie reversed polarity. If you're saying, as I think you are, that connecting main leads first can lead to this "connection breakdown" error then it's news to me but I'm glad to know it as I have another 208b and a 1010B+ to look after.

As far as connecting positive before negative, this isn't so easy as I use Deans, although I suppose I can do it by removing the neg banana plug from the side of the charger then reconnecting it. All of this is hassle I hadn't bothered with because I didn't see any benefit, but if you can verify that this can prevent the connection breakdown error then I suppose I should do it.

If that's the case, it would be good if Junsi's first post is more explicit regarding this.

First off I am not stating that sequence has to be followed. I have done it both ways many times but the spark can not be good for the charger.

About a year ago there was a lot of Hyperion chagers developing Connection Break down Errors ( still happens but not as often it seems)and Hyperion specifically recomended connecting the main leads first then balancing leads and then reverse for disconnecting. Hyperion modified the firmware to take care of this issue but......


Concerning the Deans Ultras. It is easy enough to connect the pos. blade first then rock the neg. blade into the connector.


Charles

Thanks Charles, will practice my Deans connecting technique.

Originally Posted by natterjak

I hadn't appreciated that connecting the leads in a sequence other than the recommended one can cause damage to the charger, except under the specific circumstances mentioned in Junsi's first post of this thread - ie reversed polarity.

That was my impression too. Connecting one or the other the wrong way (reversed polarity), is OK. One the correct way, and the other with wrong polarity means problem. Not sure why connecting sequence matters though.

Fred

Connection Order:

OK I will leave it to others to sort this out. I have expressed my views.

English is not junsi native language and find much of the owner's manual unclear and I know he has had much help with it. IMO if everyy user read and understood the instructions in the owner's manual and the first post here then this thread would be approx. 5% of its current size.


Charles

+1 for that. I have just read over it twice (208b) and it all makes quite good sense. A few things I needed to read a few times, but thats only because I wasnt really paying attention the first time and I Mhad the lappy in the loungeroom and the charger in the garage so I was running back and forth!

Still not quite sure why connecting the +ve lead before the -ve lead will stop arcing, but I will give it try

Here's what I have:

2s A123 pack, wired up with a servo extension. The red wire goes to the + of one cell, the black wire goes to the - of the other cell, with the yellow wire going to the bar connecting the 2 cells in series. I have a plug that I can make for the balance board for a 2s pack. Now the problem is, I have to plug in the power output wires from the 106b+. Do I need to run 2 more wires off of the original red and black wires to connect the power output wires to? Or should I just make a plug to charge the A123's, only using the red and black wires?

Originally Posted by WessCo

Do I need to run 2 more wires off of the original red and black wires to connect the power output wires to? Or should I just make a plug to charge the A123's, only using the red and black wires?

For balance charge, the pack "end points" must be connected to both balancing port and charger output. You can either make an adapter where black and red wires are split to connect both to balancing board and charger output, or solder extra red and black wires between pack and servo connector for connection to charger output. The latter is preferred since you avoid charging through the servo connector. Less resistance and higher charge current is possible.

Hope this is clear without any illustration.

Fred

If the servo lead is the only one then you need to made and adaptor so that the pos. and the neg. can be connected to the chargers main output leads and the servo (balancing )leads can be used for blancing.

So yes you need to run 2 more wires off of the original red and black wires to connect the power output wires to but you could also only use the red and black leads and not balance charge it. I recomend balancing however.







Charles

I don't mind balancing, as that's what has been done since the first pack of those. Thanks.

got the 106b+ today, seems pretty good, charged a crappy eflite 800mah 3s pack and it balanced it pretty well, one cell was 4.21 while the other 2 seemed to be 4.23 but they aren't the best packs so that could be the issue. I set them for 2C and it still took around 47 minutes which I thought was a long long time.

But for my main question. I've tried nicd and nimh auto mode on my transmitters and is it just me or are they just useless? I set them for like 1 amp and they charge at like .4 amps. I'm just using manual mode now so they actually do something.

Auto Ni mode results depends on how good the battery (cells) are . With decent lower IR cells it does fine with higher IR cells it backs the charge rate down to a safer(kinder) level. This is normal and I have several chargers which react the same.

Try doing a discharge then using the Ni Forming charge as the battery may be out of balance.

Charles

one other question, how do you update this thing, does the charger have to be powered up? i'm using windows 7 and it doesn't connect.