Hello
My Ve came with a PEK kit installed but did not include the directions. the way the linkages are setup looks pretty odd to me. Does anyone have a picture of the kit installed correctly? I'm most concerned with the links from the arms on the head to the main grips. Mine come from one side of the flybar to the grip on the other side of the flybar, is this correct? A picture would be tremendously helpful.

Also wondering if anyone has a link to directions for the Kontronik smile 40-6-12 controller, have one but not a clue how to use it.

thanks!

Can't help with the PEK directions, maybe try the manufacturer? Here are the instructions for the smile using throttle governor mode:

Preliminaries - set your normal throttle curve to 0-50-100, idle 1 to 75-75-75 and idle 2 to 80-80-80

Turn on the Tx, set to the normal throttle curve.
Plug in the battery, the motor should beep to indicate it is armed.

If it doesn't beep with the throttle fully down check 2 things - throttle channel needs to be reversed if it is a Futaba Tx, expand the throttle ATV value to about 110%. Either or both of those should get it to beep indicating its armed.

On the label side of the ESC there is a pictogram of a hand with a finger pointing and it says "taster". The finger is pointing to a bump / button under the heatshrink. Press that button and it will go TA-DAAA! indicating it is in programming mode.

Now the ESC will beep 1 time then be silent for 5 seconds or so

It will beep 2 times then be silent for 5 seconds or so

It will beep 3 times then be silent for 5 seconds or so

It will beep 4 times then be silent for 5 seconds or so

This is mode 4 which is what you want, once you hear the 4 beeps move the throttle to full - don't worry, the motor will not start.

Wait a few seconds and you will hear 3 beeps, move the throttle to off.

After a bit you will hear 4 beeps.

Disconnect the battery.

Now, your ESC is programmed to governor mode but there is one more step, the ESC needs to learn the characteristics of the motor.

Reconnect the battery, pull the throttle all the way down until you hear the arming beeps.

Slowly raise the collective to about 40%, the motor will slowly spool up and begin going up and down in RPM for a while. You are at less than hover pitch so the heli won't takeoff. After 10 seconds or so the RPM will stabilize. Shut it down, disconnect the battery.

ESC is now fully programmed and calibrated.

To fly connect the battery, arm the ESC then either spool up in normal and turn on idle1 or just hit the idle 1 switch, the ESC will spool up the motor very slowly until it reaches the RPM for 75% and you can fly. If 75 is to slow try idle 2 at 80. Adjust the idle 1 and 2 values to suit. If the headspeed is too low, increase the pinion count.

Oh yeah,

Mode 1 is airplane mode which selects the full throttle position each time you connect the pack.

Mode 2 is glider mode, brake enabled and full throttle position set in the programming routine.

Mode 3 is airplane/boat mode, brake disabled and full throttle position set in the programming routine.

Mode 4 is heli mode, brake disabled, active RPM control (governor mode) and full throttle position set in the programming routine.

Mode 5 is competition mode, brake enabled as hard as possible with all safeties off and timing advanced for max power.

This group rocks!

Still need help with the PEK though. Manufacturer has nothing. Isn't LVRCflyer flying one of these? Help me buddy.. pal..

You can reach Ron or Tim at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/JRVoyagerE/

Lots of Voyager info there.

Stephen

Hi Terkan,

The V-E's mainrotor grips should be positioned or installed in the mainrotor head so the gray control links known as pitch links are connected to the steel ball on the mainrotor grip so they are controlling the trailing edge of the mainrotor blade and grip.

The PEK did not change this. Double check your mainrotor grips in relation to the mainrotor head and make sure the trailing edge of the grip is being connected to the pitch links on either side of the mainrotor head. The pitch links will be slanted if the Zero Delta mod of the PEK has been installed onto the mainrotor grips. The pitch links do tilt to the right if you look at it from the lower connection point on the flybar seesaw mixing arms. But they should not be stretching over the flybar seesaw on top or crossing it to connect to the mainrotor grips. If the mainrotor grips are installed backwards so the short pitch links are connected to the mainrotor grips in front I can see how these links could be stretching across the flybar seesaw and it would look weird. I’m not sure it would work at all and not cause severe binding also.

What motor do you have in your V-E? There are different PEK installations recommended which are dependant on how much power you have in the heli.

I'd bet BigTim will jump in here and assist once he sees the thread.

__________
Best regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO
CAMP RONNIE

It is assembled wrong.

The problem isn't that the grips are on the wrong way its that the center carrier for the flybar is upside down and as such the mixing arms are backwards (make sense?) this also makes the links from the swashplate to the other end of the mixing arms rub against the washout bolt.

Most anxious to hear from BigTim as I don't know anything about the PEK and can't find a lot of info. The Voyager came with a B40-9L (thought I was getting an 8L ) and my plan is to run it on 10 cells 1700 with the lowest pinion I can use to get good headspeed. For the time being I don't have any 1700's, the heli came with 2-10x2400, 1 8x2000 and 2 7x2000.

Thanks again all

How does having the pitch links at the angle the PEK puts them at benefit over being straight up and down?

Terkan,

YUP it makes perfect sense if the mixing base is not assembled right.

As far as the PEK...the pitch links being slanted are the result of the Delta change. They are not what change the Delta in the mainrotor head.

The mod to the grips...if installed from the PEK remove the Delta from the head and put it at ZERO. This makes the V-E more aerobatic and more neutral when inverted vs. the stock set up. Yup in the stock set up the pitch links would be straight up. But again this is not what removes or adds Delta. The PEK mod removes it when you put the parts on the mainblade grips. Wobbles can be drastically removed with this mod. And there are other benefits of it as well. Basically with this new geometry the pitch links must be ran at a slant. Not a problem as we have been doing this for many many years with our bigger IC helis. Also, the flybar seesaw should have some dremel work done to it so as the pitch links are slanted they don't rub or bind against it. The PEK's directions call it out for this part of the assembly and installation.

Your motor sounds good. To really use the PEK right brushless motors are needed. The stock brush motor will hold you back since you will definitely run out of power with the new better performance of the V-E. Once you get in contact with BigTim he can more advise you as to the PEK tuning steps and installation for your motor and set up.

__________
Best regards,

Ron Osinski
aka - GMRO
CAMP RONNIE

The ship came with JR ds3421's which I *really* like the specs on (except the metal gears ) I was wondering if a- you can put minis in any of the carbon frames available (rather than micro) and b - would the weight loss going to a Hitec Micro be considerable for performance? What is the general consensus on Ve servos?

Thanks

Originally posted by Terkan
The ship came with JR ds3421's which I *really* like the specs on (except the metal gears ) I was wondering if a- you can put minis in any of the carbon frames available (rather than micro) and b - would the weight loss going to a Hitec Micro be considerable for performance? What is the general consensus on Ve servos?

Thanks

Wow! Thats about $360 worth of servo's. The difference would be enormous I'll trade ya 4 HS-81's

Does that mean they are good? is the extra weight worth it? will they fit in any carbon frames?

What success are people having with different servos?

and its $270 - I only got 3

Ds 368 will do the Job fine , Tony

Originally posted by Terkan
Does that mean they are good? is the extra weight worth it? will they fit in any carbon frames?

What success are people having with different servos?

and its $270 - I only got 3

The servo's are outstanding, terrific centering, torque and minimal slop in the gears ( a lot of MG servo's are really sloppy). I have 3 of them in my Logo 10 and really like them.

I think they are about 1.2 ounces heavier than HS-81's, personally I wouldn't worry about it. There are some weight fanatics out there in VE land though, they go to aluminum or titanium screws to save 4 grams . You have a good motor there, fly it and if you think its underpowered then change them out.

The KSJ carbon frames I have on mine were cut for full size servo's so I needed to make adapters out of ply for HS-81's on the three cyclic servo's. I used alternately a full size 9253 on rudder and a DS 3421. I believe the KSJ frames may be out of production. The other carbon frames available are cut for HS-85's - I think! I've always been happy with the 81's although the plastic gears are good for at least one stripped servo on most crashes...

If you had bothered to email the MFG. they would have sent you the instructions, probably...

bT