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Old Jun 05, 2008, 05:07 PM
Lee
PERFECT LANDING !!!
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USA, UT, Orem
Joined Jul 2004
9,048 Posts
Hot glue is the easiest because it is fast. I don't have any trouble with the glue gun with even longer joints like gluing in spars. I have used my monocoat iron to remelt a rough hot glue seam and make repairs so hot glue is workable after it sets. It is flexible and stronger than the foam. It is heavy so you have to remember every pump of the glue gun adds weight.

Gorilla glue expands slowly after you use it and often expands out of the joint. It's stiffer and stronger than the foam so it is hard to work with. Once it hardens there it little you can do to fix it without damaging the surrounding foam. It is slower to set. I messed up a couple of planes trying to use gorilla glue plus it takes days to get the stains off your fingers.

You missed my second favorite glue which is Shoe Goop. It's strong, flexible, dries fast (2 hours) doesn't expand and is clear.



.
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Old Jun 05, 2008, 10:13 PM
flyin' fool
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Vancouver Island, Canada
Joined Jul 2003
7,252 Posts
I tried many glues and never really favored hot melt until I started experimenting with my trim iron, now that's all I use. If your serious about using hot melt, for the best results on the work bench, get yourself a low temp gun and a Monokote 'Trim Iron'. For fields repairs a few sticks of glue and a Bic lighter will do.

I've mention this many times before, complete with picture on what you can do with the little iron. It's like the watt meter, a must have.
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 02:04 AM
Sopwith Camel's Cousin
Between my tx and crashed aircraft
Joined Mar 2006
3,792 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by goldguy
... If your serious about using hot melt, for the best results on the work bench, get yourself a low temp gun and a Monokote 'Trim Iron'. For fields repairs a few sticks of glue and a Bic lighter will do.
...
A question about using hot melt for repairs.
I often get tears where the 2 sides of the tear cannot be pulled apart so I cannot stick in my low temp glue gun to apply the hot melt to one of the surfaces to be rejoined.
How can I apply hot melt on such a tear?
Should I use a 'trim iron' or Bic lighter on the glue to completely melt it and hope that it seeps into the tear?
Currently, I put some UHU glue along a tear and let the glue seep into that tear.
Thanks.
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 04:50 AM
Fighter of Gravity
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Joined Aug 2007
316 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flying-llama
A question about using hot melt for repairs.
I often get tears where the 2 sides of the tear cannot be pulled apart so I cannot stick in my low temp glue gun to apply the hot melt to one of the surfaces to be rejoined.
How can I apply hot melt on such a tear?
I have a dual heat glue gun. When I have this kind of damage, I use the high heat setting. I then push the tip of the glue gun into the foam melting it as I go. When the tip has melted into the tear, inject the hot glue with the tip still in the melted hole. The hot glue will be forced into the gap. I do this every 1/2 inch or so until the repair is made. When I pull the glue gun out of the hole I draw the flat side of a razor blade across the repair to even out the glue. This seems to work for me.
Before I started using this method, I would just use an exacto knife to turn the rip into a v-shaped channel which would hold the glue. This worked also, but uses more glue.
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 05:01 AM
Lee
PERFECT LANDING !!!
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USA, UT, Orem
Joined Jul 2004
9,048 Posts
I carry a hot glue gun and a power inverter to the field with me when I fly. I plug it into the cig lighter adapter in the car. It gets used a lot by me and the club. We are into this EPP wing combat and have a few repairs.

One think I have had trouble with is the hot glue on a hot day on a black plane. It will get soft and release. Light colored planes don't seem to have the same problem unless they are left in a hot car.

I stretch the tear open and force in the glue then razor blade over the top to make it flat.
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 06:51 AM
London Ontario Canada
artlane's Avatar
London Ontario Canada
Joined Apr 2004
1,045 Posts
Re my question regarding power/battery etc. for my A Dallaire, forget it, tried a couple things, tooooooo heavy, so, wait for the outrunner and ESC... And get back to Darts...
Thanks guys...
Art.
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 08:16 AM
Registered User
woodbury,ct
Joined Mar 2002
196 Posts
I want to build a Nutball BUT!!!!

I cannot find any souce of EPP foam locally (within 30 miles of Woodbury, CT).And the mail order suppliers require a minimum of a number of sheets which I do not wish to purchase.
Is there anyone out there who would sell me a single piece of 6mm EPP foam suitable for making a 20" dia. Nutball, say a piece 24" square?
Thanks, Dave
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 02:46 PM
flyin' fool
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Vancouver Island, Canada
Joined Jul 2003
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Dave: For a 20 incher, I would recommend 9mm, 6mm is far too floppy and you'll need loads of CF for support. The extra support needed will be heavier that the difference in the weight of the two sizes.

llama: That's where the trim iron excells. For slits and slots, like tears or inserting CF flats (on their side), just run a small bead of glue, then re-activate with the iron. On the hight temp setting it will make the glue very thin and you can force it into cracks and crannies. With the iron you can smooth out the glue, remove excessive blobs and even take joints apart.
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 03:39 PM
Sopwith Camel's Cousin
Between my tx and crashed aircraft
Joined Mar 2006
3,792 Posts
Thanks for the replies!
Quote:
Originally Posted by woolebugr
I have a dual heat glue gun. When I have this kind of damage, I use the high heat setting. I then push the tip of the glue gun into the foam melting it as I go. When the tip has melted into the tear, inject the hot glue with the tip still in the melted hole...
I did not think of this method (but then I only have a low heat gun).

Quote:
Originally Posted by goldguy
...
llama: That's where the trim iron excells. For slits and slots, like tears or inserting CF flats (on their side), just run a small bead of glue, then re-activate with the iron. On the hight temp setting it will make the glue very thin and you can force it into cracks and crannies....
Looks like a trim iron is now on my "to get" list (I already have a watt-meter and it does come in quite handy ).
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Old Jun 06, 2008, 07:35 PM
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United States, KY, Berea
Joined Dec 2003
6,643 Posts
Well, after 3 of them (8", 16", 22") I have to say it is the most fun one can have with 2 servos, even rivals the Slow Stick in the fun/cheap factor, and is definatly more fun than any Dart but its not near as much fun as a PBF, for only one extra servo, you just cant beat a PBF

My 2cents...

P.S. I have a few pix and a vid as soon as I can find my cord to my camera so I can upload them.
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Old Jun 07, 2008, 01:09 AM
D'oh.. Dumb Left Thumb
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London, UK
Joined Nov 2006
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Jake try an SD....
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Old Jun 07, 2008, 02:14 AM
flyin' fool
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Vancouver Island, Canada
Joined Jul 2003
7,252 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mchone, Jake
is definatly more fun than any Dart but its not near as much fun as a PBF, for only one extra servo, you just cant beat a PBF
I have two Darts, two NBs and four PBFs, so I'm in agreement there. But, for what it is, the NB has one advantage over the PBF......it also makes a great trainer.

And, at the same time can amaze those who think you need ailerons.

If you like flatties that perform, like dekan sez, give the Simple Delta a try, it's got similiar DNA. I'm on my second SD build and there probably will be a third.
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Old Jun 07, 2008, 06:14 AM
London Ontario Canada
artlane's Avatar
London Ontario Canada
Joined Apr 2004
1,045 Posts
Me? I use hot melt glue only... Am alergic to any CA's, Epoxy's and the white glues are too slow for my liking...
As for "Bumps" in the glueing, heck I'm buildin to fly, not impress the Queen, or President.....
An inverter for my car battery at the field, sounds like a good idea... gonna have to get me one of those.... Course, I don't need hot melt there, Ha, I NEVER crash!!!!!!
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Old Jun 07, 2008, 06:51 AM
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woodbury,ct
Joined Mar 2002
196 Posts
Goldguy, Thanks for the heads-up regarding the increase in thickness needed for a twenty incher. May be a moot point anyway as I haven't received any replies to my request.
Dave
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Old Jun 07, 2008, 06:55 AM
gpw
“There’s no place like Foam”
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United States, LA, New Orleans
Joined Jul 2002
24,126 Posts
I've tried to stay out of this , because I already agree with everything NutBall... But I must put my 2 cents in on glue and EPP...
We use the uhu /GWS type contact cement to join EPP plates using butt joints... and hot glue to join the wings to fuse , tail , etc. We also run a bead of HG around edges that would be subject to wear/damage and smooth it out with the tip of the HG gun .. leading edges, tips ,and fuselage underbellies seem to benefit most...We're currently working on a NB/UFO variant using 6mm EPP in a Big Dia.(lots of area) for SLOW ultralight driveway flying..instead of the dratted CF we'll be using the KF airfoil , strategically placed to add strength.. Yea!!! NutBalls !!!
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