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Old Mar 21, 2008, 09:39 AM
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buzzbait00's Avatar
USA, AL, New Hope
Joined Jan 2008
138 Posts
Build tip!

I use a poster bord templet and a soldering iron with a pointed tip to cut out all my foam(works great!).For this build,since it's a circle I skipped making a templet........
Take a yardstick cut off about a 12in piece.Drill a hole in one end for a nail and a hole in the other end (at the disired radius)for the tip of the iron.Lay your foam doun on your workbench(not your significant other's kitchen table )then the yardstick.Drive the nail through the foam into WORKBENCH insert hot iron in other end and do a circle Whip's em out in no time.I bet you could do a couple at a time!Drill several iron holes for different sizes.
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 10:35 AM
flyin' fool
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Vancouver Island, Canada
Joined Jul 2003
7,291 Posts
dekan:

The picture of the LE with the CF flat is of the D-A-L, not the NB. Trust me on this one, the CF flat around the LE is not worth all the work. It took three trys to get it right and I discovered the only way you can accomplish the task is to put a bead of hot melt around the LE, then slide the tip of a Monokote trim iron between the foam and the CF flat as you slowly stick it down. You can't go near CF under tension with heat.

I slice the foam with my blade, push in a flat and then hot melt it into place, smoothing the glue with the iron. I then poke a hole next to the CF and hot melt in one of those single pin horns so the shoulder rests on the CF. (The horns are those cheapo one from HC and for 16 cents each, why bother making my own.) This way the load is tranfered along the CF and not in one spot which would probably fail.

Note.....if I use thicker CF flats, I may have to run the tip of the iron through the slice to make it wider or you'll end up with a bend in the foam.
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 02:33 PM
D'oh.. Dumb Left Thumb
dekan's Avatar
London, UK
Joined Nov 2006
5,398 Posts
Thanks Gold.. do You use a variac or dimmer on your hinge cutting soldering iron..... I find mine once fully warmed up is way too hot.
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 02:39 PM
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Joined Feb 2007
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I thought I would split a bamboo skewer and hot glue to the leading edge for support. Worked great on the darts. Gives the hint of a tapered LE as well and serves the purpose of protecting that foam from tears since I alway slather some hot glue on the entire LE anyway.
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 04:38 PM
Curiouser and curiouser
Kokopeli's Avatar
Rochester, NY, USA
Joined Oct 2005
2,062 Posts
I look at my rectangular sheets of foam and the round pattern and think:
Why can't this thing at least be hexagonal, eh?

Walt
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 05:53 PM
flyin' fool
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Vancouver Island, Canada
Joined Jul 2003
7,291 Posts
dekan: My 20W iron is exactly perfect in the tempature department.....got lucky.

wolf: To stop the rippin' and tearin', I cut a shallow slit in the edges and force a piece of cotton string into it, pull tight and hot melt glue.

walt: If you go over to the Sq2 thread, you'll see lots of different shapes of this idea. The NB is just a super simple version and it worked better than better right from the get go, no changes needed. You'll see that the other shapes are having problems, but this circle works perfectly.
Superior aeronautical engineering or just plain luck? I'm anxious to see if other's will back up my findings or excommunicate me from this form.

GB seems to think it's the highly tappered LE and TE, just like the Smart Dart, that makes it work so well.
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 07:55 PM
Registered User
Nashua NH
Joined Jan 2007
307 Posts
Hi People,

I took full advantage of my "sickday". I cut and glued a 20" 6mm black epp, and a 17" 9mm white epp. Got as far as control surfaces, horns,rods and servos. No electronics yet. Noticing my supply of Sloper Steves "Plane in a Box" 9mm epp is just about depleted. I placed an order with rcfoam....6 sheets, 12x36, 25 bucks..11 bucks shipping. Here's my delema. I'm a noob, I love working and flying epp for the obvious reasons...I've never worked with fff. Nano seconds after hitting the "Buynow" button, my FPB club insticts hit. How can I justify buying epp when for less money you get so much more with fff?

David
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 09:22 PM
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Joined Feb 2007
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That is why I just go to the dollar store and buy a couple sheets of readiboard. I have no place to store and $1 will make at least one of these little fun things. It does crumple a little since it is similar to depron. I figure I will get some EPP when I have one that I want to paint nice and keep for a while.
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Old Mar 21, 2008, 11:11 PM
Sopwith Camel's Cousin
Between my tx and crashed aircraft
Joined Mar 2006
3,797 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidWent
... How can I justify buying epp when for less money you get so much more with fff?
...
To me whether EPP is worth it or not depends.
If you spend a lot of time on the same model (where building a new copy of a totaled model counts as the same model)
and you tend to spend a lot of time repairing
(crash often, slow at repairs, and/or need to do extensive repairs, including complete rebuilds),
then EPP may save you time (need less time to do repairs) and money
(less broken parts to replace).
I am one of these people.

If on the other hand, you want to try different models quickly
(so will be building soon even if nothing gets broken)
and you don't spend a lot of time repairing (don't crash often, can make repairs quickly, and/or tend to only have minor damage on a crash),
then EPP may not be worth it.
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Old Mar 22, 2008, 01:03 AM
teched88
SW PA
Joined Feb 2007
344 Posts
EPP is always worth it.
fixes are almost non noticable.
Still have all my planes after a year of crashes and they still look good


I should post pics of some of my planes after low to ground air manuvers, dorks, oopsies, trees, lamp posts, combat strikes........


fly them like you stole them cause the fear of carnage is gone.
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Old Mar 22, 2008, 01:18 AM
Look outside the Square
Boxhead's Avatar
Gosford, Australia
Joined Jan 2006
2,620 Posts
Hi David, as quoted here EPP is extremely durable. The hip pocket is always the key on how you do things. Value wise EPP I feel is great value. To make the EPP go a bit further you can always build a composite. If a flate plate PBF type, the wing can be made from( EPP ) and fin and elevator Depron etc. Profile foamy like GB's FFF P-51, Fuse ( EPP ) and wings Depron etc. It stretches the EPP out a little bit more while using cheaper foam for your surfaces. Good Luck with it all.

B x
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Old Mar 22, 2008, 06:02 AM
Registered User
USA, CA, San Carlos
Joined Nov 2007
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My EPP came from rcfoam today and I can't wait to try this stuff. I got some 9 mm sheets and it's so damn rubbery! Couldn't believe my eyes/hands. Sure is a change from Depron. If I have time I will start my NutBall tomorrow

- Jeff
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Old Mar 22, 2008, 08:27 AM
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metro Detroit, MI
Joined Jan 2007
193 Posts
Has anyone posted any videos yet of the NB in action?
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Old Mar 22, 2008, 08:33 AM
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Nashua NH
Joined Jan 2007
307 Posts
All good points. Thanks guys!

Jeff, how long did your order take? I placed my order yeserday

Thanks again

David
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Old Mar 22, 2008, 09:13 AM
Flying Models for 51 Years!
Sixter's Avatar
Georgia, United States
Joined Oct 2002
802 Posts
Today I am going to the LHS to pick up a motor, esc and two battery packs for my 20" NB. Getting a E-Flight Park 300 Outrunner, E-Flight 10 amo ESC, and I have the choice of either a 730 mah Thunder Power or a 800 mah E-Flight Lipo 2 cell packs. Question, what prop would you guys recommend, the Park 300 prop saver is said to favor the APC props. And which battery pack would yall favor!

Thanks
Bobby
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