Mar 20, 2008, 01:02 AM
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Vancouver Island, Canada
Joined Jul 2003
6,304 Posts
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The NutBall, best damn RET foamy yet.....
The NutBall.....It's what you get when you combine a Pizza Box Flyer with a Smart Dart, the best of both. It's round and it flies like crazy, hence the name.
It can be setup for flying from mild to wild. It's an easy quick build, so any repairs are a breeze. There's no nose or tail to break off and the wing can't fold. As a trainer it can fly slower than slow, super stable and no bad habits. Turn up the volumn for advanced flying or silly fun. It flies almost as if has ailerons......rolls, loops, snaps and spins both way, flies inverted (but, not it's forte unless you drop the dihedral), prop hanges like a full blown 3D machine and has no pitch problems at high speed.
Here's the new improved instructions and specs. The changes I have made from the orginal, produce an improvement in both flying and durability. You'll find a plan on the next page that can be sized to give you the lowest possible wing loading for the weight of the flight equiptment to have. Notice the addition of a canopy to provide side area for the rudder to 'work' against for better response. Can also be used as a hand launch handle.
Cutting the circle is as simple as drawing it on the foam using a string, a small nail and a pen. Cut along the line with a new sharp blade, turning the foam as you go. One measurement, one line to draw and one continuous cut, done in less than two minutes. The hinges and dihedral joint are melted out of the EPP foam using a modified 30W solder iron. File the tip into a wedge, use a wheel collar as a depth gauge and run it along a steel ruler.
The orginal prototype was 17" in diameter of 6mm EPP, for 227 sq.in./1.58 sq.ft., 4.2 oz for a loading of 2.68 oz. per sq. ft. The centre section is 9", the tips are 4" and the dihedral is set at 24 degrees or 1 3/4" EACH tip. The rudder is 5" high and 2 1/2' wide, as is the elevator 2 1/2" wide at the centre line. Balance at 25% of the root cord to start, them adjust rear ward to suite your flying style. CF flats are installed across the wing in two locations to keep it flat. They are inserted into a slot and held captive with hot melt glue across the slot. Add a bottom spine and a foam box to attach the motor mount. The landing gear is a 'V' lashed to the motor mount with carpet thread n' CA glue. Add a 1/64 ply chin to stop the foam from compressing and mount the battery on the bottom.
The following goodies from HC are used to keep it airborne.....the 16 gram motor on 2S 460s spinning a 7X4 SF prop, the Plush 6A ESC, a Corona RX and EM 3.7 servos.
A 20 incher for a 70w motor should weigh 7 ounces, have a centre section of 11", with tips of 4 1/2" and set at 24 degrees dihedral. The rudder is 6" high X 3" wide, as is the elevator.
I've modified my latest with using 18 degrees dihedral under EACH tip and found it improved inverted flying. It flys smoother, but not being quit as responsive to input, so just crank up the throws.
Note: I've since tried 12 degrees EACH tip and more area on the rudder and elevator.......better still. That's 1 1/8" at 4 inches.
This post with pictures and the plans on the next page is all that's required. If you need more info on size, the equipment you plan on using, etc., use the search feature and type in key words or numbers, like a wing span (from 7 to 7 FEET) or a motor size. Using this method, you'll have your answer in short order.
CAUTION: Attempt the maiden voyage at a low throttle setting, gain altitude holding in any trims required on the sticks and then use the trim levers. This will control any unwanted torque effect until you get the feel of it and gain confidence.
Fly SMALL, have a BALL..........
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Last edited by goldguy; Jun 09, 2013 at 05:31 AM.
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