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Old May 27, 2008, 05:55 PM
My hobby is an investment
Gleber's Avatar
Orlando, FL
Joined Jan 2008
191 Posts
Well... I use 30 min epoxy dissolved with alcohol an works great!
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Old May 27, 2008, 07:00 PM
from another mother
Brother2's Avatar
Plumas Lake, CA
Joined Nov 2007
454 Posts
I just used straight epoxy applied with a brush.

I wonder how much the plane would weigh if it was completely coated in epoxy?
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Old May 27, 2008, 08:27 PM
My hobby is an investment
Gleber's Avatar
Orlando, FL
Joined Jan 2008
191 Posts
I mix with alcohol because it will make the epoxy thinner and it will help the epoxy penetrate dipper in the wood.

Best Regards
Gleber Moura

PS.: Did you checked my final pictures on the ultimate? And the video?

I hope you don't mind Brother2

Final Pictures:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=41

Video:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=869219
or
The Ultimate Monster R/C (6 min 11 sec)
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Old May 27, 2008, 08:46 PM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwinhh
OK, Zor. Led by your shining example, I will do it MY way and explain why.

I use WBP because I have never had fuel-soak (in 10 years of doing it this way), it cleans up with water, I can reuse the brushes, it's non-toxic, it's odorless, it's cheap, it doesn't require mixing and thus is more realiable, and it's flexible.

If the epoxy soaks in, it won't crack, chip, or peel as a thick coat will.

In future I shall try to remember to explain what I do and why I do it, so that all will trust my hard-won knowledge and realize what a master of modeling I have become in my SEVENTY-ONE years of experience. 8^]>>>

howell
Thanks "howell".

I do not consider your first line as .

I realize that many of your planes are electric.

No problems with polyurethane.

Zor
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Old May 27, 2008, 08:58 PM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother2
Engine mounted, taped and looking nice.

Fuse servos in. Pushrods in and epoxied.

Firewall epoxied.
The middle servo horn (crank) is very close to its closest one.
Make sure there is no interference between the two.

Its coming along nicely.

Zor
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Old May 27, 2008, 09:18 PM
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You guys are missing the whole point....if you fuel proof the tank area, it (the tank) will never leak ........... and if you Don't fuel proof that area, the tank will split, leak and simply dissolve
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Old May 27, 2008, 09:31 PM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tailskid2
You guys are missing the whole point....if you fuel proof the tank area, it (the tank) will never leak ........... and if you Don't fuel proof that area, the tank will split, leak and simply dissolve

Finally, I now know why. I have been wondering for years.
Thanks tailskid2 for illuminating my mind.

AAaaa _ _ _hhhh! I feel so much better .

Zor
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Old May 27, 2008, 09:37 PM
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And those words of wisdom have come from many years of trying to trick Mr. Murphy - and he won each and every time!
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Old May 28, 2008, 02:31 AM
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Joined Mar 2008
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Hi Zor,

Thank you for the comprehensive reply. Yes I do understand the two alternatives fully. My real problem however is that I am building the RV4, and the engine in obviously covered by a cowl. I want to use a third line to fill my tank, and I need to know where this third line will exit the cowl. Does it hang loose next the the muffler, under the fuse?

I see my question about protecting the inside of the fuse sparked some lively debate. Bottom line I suppose is that there are any number of options.

Cedric.
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Old May 28, 2008, 10:11 AM
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ivanc's Avatar
United States, TX, Round Rock
Joined Dec 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tailskid2
You guys are missing the whole point....if you fuel proof the tank area, it (the tank) will never leak ........... and if you Don't fuel proof that area, the tank will split, leak and simply dissolve
How true! And I'm not being sarcastic!

The truth is - if you fuel proof the tank area and the tank leaks, you just remove the tank, wipe the fuel proof surfaces dry and install a new/repaired tank and you forget about it.

OTOH if the tank area was not fuel proof and the tank leaks, the wood gets soaked, you spend hours with corn starch, baby/talcum powder or any other cleaner to dry the soaked wood and you remember the incident all your life having a proof of Murphy's laws!

Ivan
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Old May 28, 2008, 11:23 AM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CEDRIC TAYLOR
Hi Zor,

Thank you for the comprehensive reply. Yes I do understand the two alternatives fully. My real problem however is that I am building the RV4, and the engine in obviously covered by a cowl. I want to use a third line to fill my tank, and I need to know where this third line will exit the cowl. Does it hang loose next the the muffler, under the fuse?

I see my question about protecting the inside of the fuse sparked some lively debate. Bottom line I suppose is that there are any number of options.

Cedric.
Hi Cedric,

We may do things differently and we have different experience in many occasions. What counts is the end results.

If someone likes to fuel poof with polyurethane or with epoxy that is their choice. In the old days we (old timers) did not have plastic covering to apply with a warm iron and could not enjoy the wrinkles and lack of adhesion. So we used fabric (mainly silk) and real aircraft dope formulated for full size airplanes. It never winkled and stayed tight as a drum for decades and was fuel proof.

These days, dope is hard to find around here.

Concerning your question I can only suggest that you do what I am doing with the Skybolt. That is the third method showed in my previous posting.

One line has the weight (clunk) inside the tank, comes out and goes to the check refuelling valve on the side of the fuselage then to the carburetor. A fuel filter is installed in that line betwenn the valve and the carb.

A second line nearly touching the top inside the tank come out and goes to the muffler.

A third line just a bit below the level of the second line inside the tank (like 1/8 Inch lower) comes out and is routed to drain below the fuselage to the ground. Usually out of the cowling if the cowling has an opening at its bottom or just make a small hole and let the line stick out enough to be able to hold it with two fingers while you remove the plug when you refuel and put the plug back after refuelling. That line is only to tell you that your tank is full without sending fuel to the muffler line and must be capped while running the engine so the muffler line can do its job of pressurizing the tank.

Some fellows claim that the refuelling valve is a piece of crap that keep leaking. If they avoid depositing dirt from their fingers on the O'ring near the surface of the valve they will not have any leakage.

So you refuel by insertng the supply line (from your source of fuel like may be a gallon container) into the check valve on the side of the fuselage. Find a place for the valve to try to keep your fuel lines as short as practical in your model.

Have a good time Cedric,

Zor
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Last edited by Zor; May 28, 2008 at 11:32 AM.
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Old May 28, 2008, 06:38 PM
from another mother
Brother2's Avatar
Plumas Lake, CA
Joined Nov 2007
454 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zor
The middle servo horn (crank) is very close to its closest one.
Make sure there is no interference between the two.

Its coming along nicely.

Zor

The two pieces of the horn that are almost touching will be cut off. I'm using the right side of the center servo and the left side of the left servo.
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Old May 28, 2008, 09:42 PM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother2
The two pieces of the horn that are almost touching will be cut off. I'm using the right side of the center servo and the left side of the left servo.
Goody ... goody ... Brother2,

I could see only two pixels between them on my monitor .

Zor
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Old May 30, 2008, 02:31 AM
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Hi Gleber,

I love the Monster colour scheme on your Ultimate, looks wicked. I have always had a soft spot for bi-planes, in fact the VERY FIRST kit I ever built, about 35 years ago was the Acro Sport bi. Tell me, the decals on your plane, how were they done. Also was the Ultimate a kit?
Cedric
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Old May 30, 2008, 03:21 AM
My hobby is an investment
Gleber's Avatar
Orlando, FL
Joined Jan 2008
191 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by CEDRIC TAYLOR
Hi Gleber,

I love the Monster colour scheme on your Ultimate, looks wicked. I have always had a soft spot for bi-planes, in fact the VERY FIRST kit I ever built, about 35 years ago was the Acro Sport bi. Tell me, the decals on your plane, how were they done. Also was the Ultimate a kit?
Cedric

Thanks Cedric


This is a Great Planes Ultimate kit for a a 40 size.

For The decals I had to cut those from a Monster Can, Put on a copy machine and ampliate, ampliate, ampliate... until I have the right size, Lay over the monokote and about 9 #11 blades cutting everything.

You can see more information about my plane on
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=832427


Best Regards

Gleber Moura
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