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Old Mar 07, 2012, 02:43 PM
North Simcoe Flyers
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Midland, Ontario, Canada
Joined May 2007
838 Posts
Nice engine! I always liked Rossi engines.
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 01:01 PM
North Simcoe Flyers
rcwings's Avatar
Midland, Ontario, Canada
Joined May 2007
838 Posts
Got a little work done on the wing. After some cursing, hissy fits and wondering if I should have carved out tips from a chunk on balsa, the one wing is pretty much completed. Had a bit of trouble with the ABS tips so had to shim to fit straight and fabricate new trailing tips, but am now pretty happy with it overall. Now....what to do about the servo mounts..........
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Last edited by rcwings; Mar 10, 2012 at 11:52 PM.
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 06:18 PM
Zor
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Ontario,Canada
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcwings View Post
Just been away for a few days so no progress on the RV4. Have been thinking about the flap and aileron servo reconfiguration and have a couple ideas. Will post as soon as I am able to get at the building again to figure out the details. Thinking may hide the flap control rod/arm and servo completely if there is enough "edge" to allow for it, but the ailerons will have the rods exposed with the servos tucked under a hatch. Stay tuned!
Hello rcwings,

I hope I am following you correctly.
You wish to hide the servos.

This process has been pretty well standardized.
With some little vaiations how the servo is mounted on a
hard plywood typically 1/16" or 3/32" thick and screwed in from underneath the wings.

A couple of attached pictures illustrate the idea without you having to browse around.

One pic had camera flash the other without flash.
It is interesting what the flash can do to a picture so I am posting both pics.

Zor
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 09:21 AM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Dec 2011
116 Posts
Hey Pablo,

when you put the fuse sides on it looks like you unpinned the top from the plan? did you glue both sides at the same time? This is my next step and I"ll be tackling it later today.
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Last edited by bunkai; Mar 10, 2012 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 10:30 AM
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Israel, Ashdod
Joined Dec 2009
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Originally Posted by bunkai View Post
Hey Pablo,

when you put the fuse sides on it looks like you unpinned the top from the plan? did you glue both sides at the same time? This is my next step and I"ll be tackling it later today.
if i understand you right, i lay the fuse top in the plans, glued the formers to is places and then glued the fuse sides. but i'm not sure if that is the answer you are looking for.
if not let me know, my English is good but not Exellent..

Pablo.
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Israel, Ashdod
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Originally Posted by pablojaime View Post
if i understand you right, i lay the fuse top in the plans, glued the formers to is places and then glued the fuse sides. but i'm not sure if that is the answer you are looking for.
if not let me know, my English is good but not Exellent..

Pablo.
After reading your question about 4 times i finally come to understand the question!!! (i think...)
YES!!! i unpinned the fuse top, with the formers in place and glued, and then glued both side fuselages at the same time and clamped, fasten with Velcro strips. on Post #634 there is a Picture of that.
sorry for my confusion...

Pablo.
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Last edited by pablojaime; Mar 10, 2012 at 10:48 AM. Reason: Grammar!!!! F... Grammar!!!!
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 11:09 AM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Dec 2011
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Yes that was the picture that prompted the question. I have the formers in place and spent the week getting the sides to follow the contour of the top. I'm ready to glue the sides on and from your picture and others on this thread it appears that the top has been unpinned when the sides were glued but nothing in the manual suggests this. It would make it easiier if the top were freed from the table so that you could clamp everything properly. Which means yes you've answered my question. Thanks Pablo!
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 06:02 PM
North Simcoe Flyers
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Midland, Ontario, Canada
Joined May 2007
838 Posts
Well I know you guys are just itching to see what I am planning for the servos and since I just came out of the "think tank" , have come up with a solution to hide them. Pretty simple and uses parts you already have in the kit with a little trimming. The only thing extra you may need to buy is a sheet of 3/32" balsa sheeting. Have not actually completed it yet, but some pics to clarify where I am going with this. Hope it makes sense. I am using standard mount servos, as I have an abundance of them. If you need to buy servos, you may want to consider one of the "low profile" wing servos that a few of the manufacturers carry. Not much more cost over a standard servo, but can simplify mounting. In this case all you would need to do is mount a ply plate between the ribs and make a door. You can mount them (either type) right to a ply door (hatch) but I prefer to mount them inside and make a balsa hatch for access. Just my personal preference and many different ways to do this type of modification. Now keep in mind, you rarely need to access this space, but you do need to provision for it for preventative maintenance and servicing. In all my installations in this manner I have very rarely needed to open the hatch. Since I usually mount all hardware and test prior to final covering, I may not need access to the servo for a long time. So, what I decided on my last model was to place the hatch in position (nice snug fit) and then just cover over it in film with the entire wing. Aside from the rod exit hole, you would never know there is a servo there. If I for some reason need access, I can open the hatch by carefully cutting the covering around the hatch outline to open the hatch. Can even be done at the field in an emergency. Replace hatch and secure with the screws and ready to go again. Can always touch up the covering back in the shop. I am gambling on not needing to open it up for some time and so have saved some tedious covering work in that area, but I am also relatively confident with my setups that I should not have to access for some time. For new builders, you may want to have this area readily accessible, so spend a bit of time to cover around the hatch hole as well as to cover the hatch plate itself, then secure with screws. It will make adjustments much easier for you if you can just remove a couple screws to pop the hatch open! You may need to do some adjustments to the horn positions, or sizing, so covering over (the way I did it in the last photo) is not great advice unless you are confident no major adjustment is required soon after completion of model. It does make for a very "clean" look though......IMHO.

Now back to the mounts:

- Use the servo tray parts from the plan (ST and STS).
- Mount ST right onto the rib in question
- Brace with STS on top and or bottom for support
- The rib should easily be able to handle the stress, but some bracing should be done to strengthen it up a little bit more.
- Trim/Sand STS to fit squarely at spar and against rib/tray.
- Carefully cut slightly off inside rib to allow brace (STS) to rest on ply plate (ST)
- Leave a gap between the ST plate and the spar in order for the aileron servo wire to feed past the structure.
- Smooth off any rough edges in that gap so vibration will not damage servo leads.
- I will likely make a "lead tube" running through the ribs to protect the leads as well as make feeding in a new servo lead easier if I ever need to replace a servo.
- Once satisfied with fit, epoxy in place.

I will provide more pics as I go through the process for the flap and aileron servos. My intent is to completely hide the flap mechanism to give a little more of a "scale" look. The aileron you will see the rods exit from underneath to the control horn on the aileron, similar to the last two photos of another build I just completed.

Please keep in mind that in the photo nothing has been cut/sanded/glued to fit at this point. The hatch door will be the full span of the space between the two ribs underneath. Since the gap is relatively large between the ribs, the servo mount screws are easy to get at for removal. Last two photos are from the last build which the RV4 will be very similar to on the ailerons. This is looking at the bottom of the wing on last two photos. The first three are a top view of the wing section of the RV4.

Cheers!
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Last edited by rcwings; Mar 11, 2012 at 12:14 AM. Reason: fixed errors and added explanation and photos
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 03:43 PM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Dec 2011
116 Posts
wow did I ever bungle something up with my clumsiness, broke the one fuse side right at the F7 former. Time for some creative repairs and of course another slow down making progress.


Update: Of course being a good boyscout I had some triangle stick just in case and it worked marvelous

I'm thinking probably a good idea to do the other side the same to balance it out.
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Last edited by bunkai; Mar 11, 2012 at 05:59 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 08:00 PM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
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Finally some progress

Any one have any clamps they can spare, hmm maybe I have enough
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 02:14 PM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bunkai View Post
Finally some progress

Any one have any clamps they can spare, hmm maybe I have enough
You can use ordinary wood spring type clothes pins that are very inexpensive.

They can be changed to clamp up to 1/4" thick material and reach in to over 1 1/2".

Zor
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 12:44 PM
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Israel, Ashdod
Joined Dec 2009
377 Posts
Ok, some work in wheel pants and cowl, i must say that i'm not the best painter in the hobby......

Pablo.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 12:46 PM
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Israel, Ashdod
Joined Dec 2009
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More..

Pablo.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 12:50 PM
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Israel, Ashdod
Joined Dec 2009
377 Posts
I'm ready to start covering, but i have a question: the plastic wing tips, covered or painted...? what do you think is better?...
waiting anxiously for your comments!!!

Pablo.
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Last edited by pablojaime; Mar 15, 2012 at 12:50 PM. Reason: again grammar...
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 04:20 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Jan 2008
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This kit just showed up at the LHS for $99 dollars. Tempting!
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