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Old Nov 02, 2008, 03:44 PM
hole digger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynxman
The 1/8 scale F-16? The manual says to put the thin washer between the stab and fuse and the thick washer between the lever and bearing.

Wonder if it be the same on the 1/12 scale F-16?
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Old Nov 02, 2008, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Huffman
It's the 1/12 scale and only has a cd with pics. But that sounds like a good option.
Thin goes between the taileron and the fuse. The thicker one goes on the inside between the fuse and the arm.
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Old Nov 02, 2008, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Huffman
... There are two sets of nylon spacers for the elevator stabs and control horns... Mark
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=116

I did not use either of the washers/spacers on mine...
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Old Nov 02, 2008, 08:06 PM
hole digger
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Herb, Gregg thanks for the info it answers several quesrtions for me.

Pete
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Old Nov 03, 2008, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb
Here's a picture of my new fan & motor getting tested at DS labs. The new fan has additional air intakes to cool the back end of the motor (new HP 220/50 long can),

.
that's nice Herb!
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Old Nov 03, 2008, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb
Hey Bruce there was quite an edf turnout yesterday ... and crashes too (F-4)....
Sorry I missed it! Life is interfering with my hobby and I won't make it next saturday either...
Might have my A-7 Corsair done for the sat after though and I'm waiting on my F9F from EJF to arrive.
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Old Nov 09, 2008, 03:57 PM
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Tam or anyone,

When installing the forward duct, other than the retaining block on top of the duct, does the duct need to be glued in around the intake lip? I know this would make it more secure but would create an issue if any work was needed on the nose retract or steering servo.

Thanks.
Mark
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Old Nov 09, 2008, 04:58 PM
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No. The retaining block is enough. If you glue it, you will not be able to get to the stearing servo and front gear.
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Huffman
... When installing the forward duct, other than the retaining block on top of the duct, does the duct need to be glued in around the intake lip? ... Mark
I have glued it in, as described above. I glued the duct at both ends using ge silicone ii glue. It prevents the whole duct from rattling, vibrating and resonating, and gives generally a softer, more pleasing sound (on which volumes have been written on rcgroups).
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Old Nov 11, 2008, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demetrius
that's nice Herb!
Yes it will be even nicer when I get the new fan + motor +esc here, hopefully in a few weeks. On the other hand, I am still waiting for other parts as well.
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Old Nov 14, 2008, 04:05 PM
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I might change the paint scheme on the F-16 after the maiden ...

I already have two F-16 in the Thunderbirds color, so perhaps it's time for something different

.
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Old Nov 14, 2008, 04:09 PM
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This weekend I will test the (belgian nato) Tigermeet F-16 scheme on this smaller one I just finished, and see how the visibility turns out

.
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Old Nov 14, 2008, 05:22 PM
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Nice paint job. Is this your work? Very professional. Just finished a HP f-16 glassed with 4lbs Static hope to do it in tiger meet also. But, it won't be as good as yours.

Scarey
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Old Nov 14, 2008, 07:18 PM
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They both look great Herb.

Ted
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Old Nov 15, 2008, 01:08 PM
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Thanks

It took me about a total of two hours in the evening to paint it with xf-3, xf-23 and xf-24. I used a small brush for the tiger stripes.
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Old Nov 15, 2008, 01:21 PM
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The retracts I have now are drilled out to 5/32 wires.

I think the old thinner wire should work very well on lighter setups.

The retracts look very solid. Looks like black anodized aluminum .

I still need to do a pressure test on the whole system before I install the retracts.

Here's a comparison between new (4mm) and old (3mm) wires:

.
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Old Nov 15, 2008, 01:40 PM
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When the fan and motor gets here I will most likely do the testing with the Evo 30C's I already have, the Nue/Saeh, or the new TP 30C if we can get them.

The Zippy / Hextronics china cells I and others tested in edf were junk quality so far (< 20 flights at ca. 15-20C ). Looks like you get what you pay for.

.
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Old Nov 15, 2008, 01:44 PM
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Which Zippy cells are those? Zippy-H, Zippy-R or just Zippy?
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Old Nov 15, 2008, 01:48 PM
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Zippy R are korean cells = somewhat better.

Wonder why Hobby City changes LiPo cell name every month ? Loong max, Zippy-H, Zippy-R, Hextronic, Rhino, what's next weeks name ? Zebra Tiger Tango
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Old Nov 15, 2008, 01:50 PM
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Hehe. Yeah. The reason I'm asking is because I'm using three 4S 5000 mAh Zippy-H packs. I have 7 or 8 cycles on them now and they seem great so far, maybe even improving. I'll see how they hold the voltage after a few more cycles though. Zippy-H are supposed to be good for Chinese cells. Time will show.
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Old Nov 15, 2008, 01:57 PM
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Herb, I have one of the "R" packs and it's awesome. One of my best batteries.
Could be a crap shoot though and maybe I got lucky.

Steve C
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Old Nov 15, 2008, 04:58 PM
Lee Liddle
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My Zippy H 5000mah cells, after about 20 cycles would not hold good voltage at 20c. I`ve been running them on my BIG prop jet powered Falcon 120 at 10c and they are very happy with that and look like they may last a very long time with that type of use. But even with careful use at 20c bursts, they got too hot and puffed some.

I am going to try the 30-50c type and see how many cycles they can give with part time 30c use. Maybe the`ll be happy at 15c in their old age.
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Old Nov 15, 2008, 06:32 PM
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Strong santa ana winds today - no flying.

... pressure tested the gear door cylinders at 80 psi, all seems to work fine.

.
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Old Nov 15, 2008, 06:42 PM
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... then pressure tested at 80 psi all valves and the new drilled out 5/32 retract set I got Friday.

One rear retract unit leaks. The leak is coming from a black plastic-like (?) plug on the side.

.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 12:06 AM
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By the way Tam, how do you get your rear doors to close with that loop in the retracts legs. Have you cut a slot in the retract door.

I am thinking that with the rear doors installed it might be simpler to just have a straight piece of 5/32 wire, without the loop.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 07:00 AM
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Herb or anyone,

What kind of psi do you pump into the tank and do you use air line restrictors so the gear does not operate so fast? I'm not worried about a scale like operation, but more so with things loosening up with the gear operating so fast.

Thanks.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 09:10 AM
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How many guys have done these without the gear doors. Since several of us are buying these and we have a dirt/grass field we want to keep thing simple and light. I plan on using 5/32 wire with Robart plastic strut covers on at least the nose gear. Is the Tam gear the way to go or should i figure on the Spring air 602's. They have held up well in my savex. I know the aluminum l brackets would have to be reworked. Any pictures would be good. Thanks Doug.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 10:40 AM
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well the spring airs are great retracts, but tams are very small, but are made of all aircraft alum so there super strong. heck there good all the way up to spark and electra size! it's just always easier when you ahead of the size game when it comes to tight confines.

Herb, I always drop the loop out of mine, but the blocks should be high enough up for the loops to clear the door.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Bateman
... Is the Tam gear the way to go or should i figure on the Spring air 602's..
These might help:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=105

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=48

The Springairs 602's seem fine to me unless you really bang on it at every landing. They are extremely well made, very strong. I have four 602 sets and one set held pressure for 1.5 months.

Tam's are very nice too and should hold up well. They came with my kit now so that's what I will use.

Not sure about that L-shaped alu piece. The more I look at it, the more I lean towards wood rails. I hate recurrent maintenance, too busy for that.

In either case, a thicker 4mm (5/32) wire might be a safer way to go.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Huffman
Herb or anyone,

What kind of psi do you pump into the tank and do you use air line restrictors so the gear does not operate so fast? I'm not worried about a scale like operation, but more so with things loosening up with the gear operating so fast.

Thanks.
I generally do not use airline restrictors. In fact on some air gears a swift movement helps to lock the gear (that is certainly true for the springairs 602' esp. the nose gear due to the pull-pull steering). Nothing should really losen up, gears are supposed to be strong.

I nomrally use < 100 psi on the Springair 602 but at installation time I test them once at 120 psi to make sure everything is nice & tight.
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Old Nov 18, 2008, 01:59 PM
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After talking to Tam I was able to plug the retract air leak. I took the black set screw out, and used a tiny bit of 5-min epoxy around and on top of it.

After I pressure tested it again, the leak is seemingly fixed now.

.
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 10:12 AM
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With Tam's help, I maidened my F-16 this weekend at the AZ Jet Rally. First flight, the nose gear would not extend so it was broken in very quickly. Took care of that problem and eventually got in a trouble free flight. I have the TJ100 fan and with the exception of takeoff, the throttle did not move above half. Initially I had purchased some Zippy 4000mah batteries that ended up being to heavy (could not get the cg to work without adding tail weight). I am currently using Outrage 3700 4s (x 3 for 12s) from HeliDirect. They are lighter and less expensive than TP or FP, which is all I have ever used on my helicopters, and so far have performed very well.

The F-16 is a great flyer and now I will start the search for my next project. Perhaps Tam's 1/8 F-16 or his Spark seemed very nice as well. His Eurofighter is still a ways off. To Herb and the others on this thread, thanks for your help.
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 11:47 AM
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Very nice

Any idea why the nose gear did not extend? Air problem, mechanical problem, steering wire problem?
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 12:23 PM
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Incidentally, what is your weight rtf and power on the 12S 3700 and the TJ fan?
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 03:00 PM
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My nosegear was apparently touching the inlet duct when inflight (according to Tam), so I reduced the bend angle and made sure when it was retracted that even if I pushed on it, it would not touch. I had installed an extra former against the existing former just forward of the main gear retract position to lift the ducting up as high as possible for main gear clearance. I cycled the gear 50+ times to make sure there would not be any issues.

I do not have a very accurate scale, but it appears to be 8.7-8.9 pounds. Tam would know the kw for the motor setup. It was plenty fast for me at 1/2 throttle. At least for now.
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 04:53 PM
Lee Liddle
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If you are running 12s, you probably have the 1515-2y motor which has a kv of 1100. It should give about 3.6kw to 3.8kw depending on ducting losses and voltage drop. That`s good for 180+ on the 1/12th scale F-16. I`m sure that 1/2 throttle is still plenty fast for getting familiar with your new F-16. Good luck with it.
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb
Incidentally, what is your weight rtf and power on the 12S 3700 and the TJ fan?

The 1515 2Y motor with 12s 3700mah doing 3.2kw at 77a with 72mm exhaust.
I had my flew at Arizona with the same power set up.
For 4 minutes flight I only use 2300mAh. It was fast. I even race with the turbine F-15 and he had to do power to kept up with me.
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 07:36 PM
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tam,

what are the numbers for the 1518-1.5y in your fan on 12s...

sent you a pm.....
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 07:40 PM
Lee Liddle
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Well there are the numbers from the man who knows for sure. My 3.6/3.8 was wrong. Those are the numbers if you ever want to put the spurs to it with 13s. LOL Actually I measure 4.15kw on 13s with the 2y, but I don`t remember the timming. I think it is 3.8kw on low timming and 4.15kw on high timming at about 95amps.
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin
tam,

what are the numbers for the 1518-1.5y in your fan on 12s...

sent you a pm.....

Kevin,
The 1518 1.5Y can do 3.6kw at 85A on low timing, mid timing 4kw 96A and 4.4kw at 108A on high timing.

I'll email Andreas tonight about that.
Call me on my cell.
I'm working late tonight to make up the time I been away playing.
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 08:25 PM
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Yeah, he's got three F-16's to get done and shipped out. I hope he wasn't out partying to late. Doug
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 08:26 PM
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Hey Tam, I'm gonna be running a 1515 2Y on 12S 3500mah 30C in a DS-51. What can I expect power wise?
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Sniper.308
Hey Tam, I'm gonna be running a 1515 2Y on 12S 3500mah 30C in a DS-51. What can I expect power wise?
DS-51 with 1515 2Y motor with 12s 3700mAh putting out 2.6kw.
You looking at around 2.7kw for 30C cells.
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Bateman
Yeah, he's got three F-16's to get done and shipped out. I hope he wasn't out partying to late. Doug
I was a good boy this weeken. Only had few drink at AZ.
But Gene is not. He was hammer on saturday and got a hang over on sunday morning.
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Old Nov 24, 2008, 08:57 PM
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The hang over only lasted till 11:00am after that I was feeling better... Thanks for letting me fly the spark... now to get some cash together to get me one.

Tam,

Tell Jose to post the pics of the F-16 in the tree...
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Old Nov 25, 2008, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ICUP
The hang over only lasted till 11:00am after that I was feeling better... Thanks for letting me fly the spark... now to get some cash together to get me one.

Tam,

Tell Jose to post the pics of the F-16 in the tree...
I'll call him tomorrow get those pictures.
Talk about luck. That is really lucky without damage to my F-16.

Here this little rocket ship.
I enjoy this little jewel fly 1/2 throttle.
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 01:11 AM
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I'm In

Hey guys! Great thread! Clean looking F-16. I have been reading up and following you guys for a few weeks now, I thought I would wait a little longer but..... I just ordered mine.... Woo Hooo!
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 09:17 AM
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Here is a shot of Tam trying to get his 1/8 scale F-16 out of a tree,,, In the end he could not reach, so I ended up Fetching it out of the tree.... that tree was surrounded by thick Thorne Brush.... Ouch!. But guess what, the F-16 came out undamaged...
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 09:30 AM
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lol How did that happen?
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 11:36 AM
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lol How did that happen?

Having too much fun with alot high speed run.
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 12:49 PM
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Ah, ok. That's all right then.
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 01:21 PM
Lee Liddle
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Tam has a bad habit of landing dead stick after sucking those poor batteries dry. I remember the A-4 video. LOL

Glad you big F-16 was OK Tam.
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 01:28 PM
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Tam, your supposed to leave 20% in the packs. Maybe you got a connection for cheap lipos? looks like you lucked out landing in the bush.
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Bateman
Tam, your supposed to leave 20% in the packs. Maybe you got a connection for cheap lipos? looks like you lucked out landing in the bush.

No,
That was Flight Power pack and I know is my fault having too much fun.
$$$ more
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 02:43 PM
dare to be dull
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Having too much fun with alot high speed run.
Check your servo gears well, bud

(no apparent damage)
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Old Dec 06, 2008, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamjets
No,
That was Flight Power pack and I know is my fault having too much fun.
$$$ more
Ouch that hurts. Looks like you are a good candidate for the chinese hc foaming plastic packs

My new fan and motor should be here shortly. Temp meas on HP longcan 220/50 motor back after a 5 min flight @ 2500 W is around room temp
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Old Dec 06, 2008, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb
Ouch that hurts. Looks like you are a good candidate for the chinese hc foaming plastic packs

My new fan and motor should be here shortly. Temp meas on HP longcan 220/50 motor back after a 5 min flight @ 2500 W is around room temp


Tomorrow flying my ultra light turbine Bandit. This just fix my bad habbit for having too much fun at high speed.
Hope I remember to back off the stick with the Spark, F-16 and Electra after flying the turbine Bandit.
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Old Dec 06, 2008, 09:04 PM
Lee Liddle
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Hey Tam take some vid of that gasser Bandit and post it somewhere. I`d like to see that bad boy tear up the sky!!!
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 12:00 AM
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It's a hobby and it's supposed to be about fun and relaxation too .

And why not, a bit of physics on the side as well .
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb
It's a hobby and it's supposed to be about fun and relaxation too .

And why not, a bit of physics on the side as well .
It's hobby for most you. But 5 days and 12 hrs a day is works for me.
Only weeken I turn works into fun.....
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 12:57 PM
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Guys

I'm too impatient to completely read both threads..... quick question

mine has the DS51 1515 1.5y. Think I will run 9s, but my current batteries are 3250 or 5000. I don't think the 3250 is enough and i think my 5000s will be too heavy. What do you guys recommend for battery size? I am thinking 3700 to 4000....but I want to hear from the experts
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 01:24 PM
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=844

I would say that in part it's an issue of testing the CG, and in part of what flight-times and battery depletion %'s you are willing to put up with.

It seems to me 9S 5000's could give you CG problems if you can't move them far enough to the back (ie thick packs).
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 03:50 PM
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9S1P 5000mah you should be fine I ran mine on 9S1p 4800mah "1144grams"
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 04:10 PM
Lee Liddle
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Did you get to fly your new Neu power system yet Sniper?
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 06:57 PM
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No not yet, they had an IMAA fly in today at my field so I had to go to my grass field and I'm not landing on the rolly polly field with my jet. Besides, I'm having difficulty mounting the fan to the ring and ducting securely.
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 06:57 PM
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My 5000s would be 1300grams, so I went ahead and ordered some 4000s. they will be 1100grams. I can use them in two other planes so no worries. I guess if I am going to try to move into the bigger jets.....I will need lots of batteries.

Now if I can just learn retracts.........rcgroups is a great place to learn and do research, but wow.....sometimes there is way too much to wade through.
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusmmdb34
My 5000s would be 1300grams, so I went ahead and ordered some 4000s. they will be 1100grams. I can use them in two other planes so no worries. I guess if I am going to try to move into the bigger jets.....I will need lots of batteries.

Now if I can just learn retracts.........rcgroups is a great place to learn and do research, but wow.....sometimes there is way too much to wade through.
Retracts, either tams with the failsafe, or you can't go wrong with Spring Air 602's and change to 5/32" wires like I did. Big difference.
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Old Dec 07, 2008, 08:55 PM
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Yeah, the one I have has the tams minis, I own a set of springairs and my flyeafle rafale has a set.....of some type. I just mean learning the mechanics of them and learning to trouble shoot them. I'm definitely a tactile learner....and not having any big EDFs or planes with air retracts around me sometimes makes it dificult. I really need to make it to one of the big EDF meets then spend my time aggravating everyone with questions!!
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 03:51 AM
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I used full size Spring Air with Oleo's. Had to cut a small slot in the front intake for the nose retract. When you fly off grass the 602 fall a little short.

Scarey
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 08:45 AM
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The one I bought was built by ilike2fly and it has the Tam's mini retracts. The work he did looks really good, I have been going through the system. Again the tactile leaner in me picks up alot by seeing and handling someone else's work. They say imitation is the greatest form of flattery!! That is why I need to go to a big fly in, or I need to visit Tam's shop. Herb and some of the others make it look easy sometimes, then I try to do the same and get humble real quick!!
I will pull off the decals and repaint this in a military scheme.....probably a IDF scheme. This is the one aspect of building that I am comfortable with.

The current retracts have small wheels due to the gear doors, but the field I joined has a 500ft runway so it shouldn't be an issue. I don't have an issue with these...someone else did the work!!....it is just that mosy of the future projects will....and I need to learn
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 09:01 AM
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Any idea how big the wheels should be on Tam's 1/12 F-16 if i was to do them a scale size. I will not be doing gear doors and if wheels are exposed a little during flight thats fine. I can't seem to find a scale side view of the jet. How high off the ground should the bottom of the fuselage be at the nosegear or intake? Does the plane sit with some positive incidence? thanks for any help... Doug
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Bateman
Any idea how big the wheels should be on Tam's 1/12 F-16 if i was to do them a scale size. I will not be doing gear doors and if wheels are exposed a little during flight thats fine. I can't seem to find a scale side view of the jet. How high off the ground should the bottom of the fuselage be at the nosegear or intake? Does the plane sit with some positive incidence? thanks for any help... Doug
Doug, the one below are most likely from the russian site airwar.ru or whatever it's callled.

The problem with larger scale wheels is that you need to carve out a huge hole in the fuse. Smaller wheels mean much smaller openings and thus less whistling sounds in flight ...

.
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusmmdb34
... Herb and some of the others make it look easy sometimes, then I try to do the same and get humble real quick...
Actually the installation of retracts on Tam's F-16 is rather straightforward. Tam has plenty of good quality pictures in his CD, and there's a few more pictures in this thread that should help.

The retract installation and esp. the nose gear is well designed and the parts fit well. Clearly whatever went into the kit was tried out and tested beforehand, and later withstood the baptism of fire on Tam's gopher infested field.

So you really do not have to go crazy to make parts fit.

I would just pay some attention to the pull-pull steering system working well without any binding or other sort of problems, before you put the ducts in.
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 11:37 AM
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Herb, thanks. I'm beefing up the nose gear formers w/ 1/8" aircraft ply on the front and back. The ply supplied is nasty and mine were broke at the joints when i received the plane. How did you lay out the cutouts for the mains? I was thinking about cutting out the scale doors and then making my cuts in the doors and reattaching them in the fuse so they are removable and allow access and room. Also do you trust the aluminum L-bracket arrangement on the mains? Seems like the torque would twist that former into pieces on a "less than perfect" landing.
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 11:46 AM
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Yes sounds all good.

My nosegear mount seemed fine the way it was designed.

No, I will use wood beams again to hold the rear retracts in place. I can see a number of things possibly going wrong with those aluminum L-shaped parts. Then maybe not.
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 03:28 PM
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Just keep in mind that the absolute max rating for the MidiFan is ca. 2000-2200W, beyond that you run the risk of severe damage to the model, to yourself and to bystanders:

Oliver of WeMoTec: " I personally see the limit of proper use for the Midi Fan at about 2.000 - 2.200 W. Above that I recommend Schuebeler for now."

as posted earlier here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=283

One of the problems I and others found in the MidiFan above 1500W is the cracking of the plastic in the motor mount even with a very well supported motor, and perfectly balanced fan:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=915522&pp=100

The new versions of the WeMoTec MidiFan is I think supposed to address some of these issues, which will be a very welcome development

.
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb
Yes sounds all good.

My nosegear mount seemed fine the way it was designed.

No, I will use wood beams again to hold the rear retracts in place. I can see a number of things possibly going wrong with those aluminum L-shaped parts. Then maybe not.
Herb,
Hundreds of flight with that L bracket in the F-16 and other plane using the same method.
We only talking about 9-11 lbs plane. Those L braket take a lot more to bend.
If do the wood rail. It take more room and weight more with all the glue. But not as strong compare to the L-bracket.
Made things easy to mounted and strong enough to do the job is the trick. The original kit had wood rail. What a nightmare to cut gear door with that wood rail glue in. It break so easy cause we use light plywood to kept it light.
The L-bracket solve a lot problem. It strong, light and easy to mounted the gear. Ofcouse with our gear.
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 05:41 PM
Lee Liddle
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That sure is a slick set-up Tam.
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 02:31 AM
climb and maintain FL200
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Wing spar support brace

My kit is here and am making some progress on the landing gear. I just finished the gear doors. Takes quite a bit of finesse to get the door hinges to operate freely. I think I have it down now. I learned 3 necessary procedures; don't have any support under the hinge, it causes the door to bind easily, sand the door down a bit on the edges so as it closes it leaves a small gap. Cut 3 slots along the edge where the hinges are. These 3 things allow the door to open fully. I am building above my ability level now but I have learned a lot so far and am enjoying the challenge.

I have a question about the wing spar. Do the new kits like the one I just received have the wing spar support brace built into them or do I need to add the plywood as has been previously suggested?
Thanks Much!
Warren
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 07:10 AM
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Herb, i believe the cracking problem will be minimized with my heat sink modification. I machined a lip that fits in the space between motor and shroud. The result is a completely rigid assembly and other than the heating and cooling over time i hope this holds up. How long the Medusa 3660-1300 holds up is another story. Yes i am pushing the fan but these power levels will be used sparingly. During tests there was no rubing of rotor at all. Pretty remarkable. Part of this is making sure there is no distortion in the fan housing. A good reason to keep wing spar loads away from the fan.
Tam, the photos are a big help and i will give your system a try. I wish the holes were predrilled. Now i have to buy special drill to do job. Is that a dremel attachment? I'm having some trouble figuring gear length since i don't know how high the jet should sit and what the space is between the main gear wheels. Are the retracts centered in the door opening?
Warren, if you look closely you will see that the wing reinforcement needs to be done. Make sure there is no slop and that spar is nice fit or it won't be providing any additional support. I am trashing the wooden half moon brace and making one out of 1/8" aluminum. For high-G wing loads i feel a little better with this over the wooden one supplied, which is falling apart.
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 01:17 PM
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Yes Tam's pictures are very helpful. Thanks for posting those. There you have it from the man himself. Now I have to buy those nice hinges .

Oliver at WeMotec is working on a new Midifan, it will happen after the present run is sold ? That will be a welcome development and I am sure it will be a first class product at a reasonable price.

Also Aeronaut is coming out - in the next decade - with their 90mm carbon fan, the tf2000 :http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=32 .

The motors, well I won't rehash an old and stale discussion, but more expensive high performance models would seem to need better quality motors imo. If the motor demagnetizes you run the risk of losing the whole plane, no? That narrows it down today to just a couple of high end manufacturers... In the future that might change too (eg. mega,het,arc).
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whansen
My kit is here and am making some progress on the landing gear. I just finished the gear doors. Takes quite a bit of finesse to get the door hinges to operate freely. I think I have it down now. I learned 3 necessary procedures; don't have any support under the hinge, it causes the door to bind easily, sand the door down a bit on the edges so as it closes it leaves a small gap. Cut 3 slots along the edge where the hinges are. These 3 things allow the door to open fully. I am building above my ability level now but I have learned a lot so far and am enjoying the challenge.

I have a question about the wing spar. Do the new kits like the one I just received have the wing spar support brace built into them or do I need to add the plywood as has been previously suggested?
Thanks Much!
Warren

Warren,
Your kit is new version with strong wing former. We move the wing reciever channel close to the wing to reduce flexing. You don't need to do anything to the wing former.
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Old Dec 10, 2008, 02:08 AM
climb and maintain FL200
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I just finished the landing gear and all the plumbing. Its my first time building with an air retract system. I made a few newbie mistakes and quickly corrected them. I really enjoyed the process of sizing everything up and making it all work together. Tams retract kit is very impressive. I went with his brake system as well as I have not landed a jet before. Im sure I will be coming in hot the first few times. I fly WWII warbirds mostly.

I slipped the wings on just to get a better look at the kit as a whole. What a beautiful sight!!! This airplane looks fast just sitting parked on my workbench.

Thanks for all the notes you guys have included in this thread they have all been very helpful.

Warren
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Old Dec 10, 2008, 12:12 PM
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Warren,
You will enjoy how well it fly. I had my set up 3.2kw. Is a rocket ship.
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 03:27 AM
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How would this Jet fly with 1000-1200 watts.? and will a 96mm fan fit..?..Thanks.Devin
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 06:38 AM
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Devin , read back through the threads. Decent performance was reported on 1000 watts. Not rocket ship but fast enough to be credible. What are you thinking of using?
Doug
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 09:36 AM
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Devin, some are using the TJ100, which is 100mm, so a 96mm fan should fit. If you have any concerns, just contact Tam. He will answer any questions you may have.
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devin777
How would this Jet fly with 1000-1200 watts.? and will a 96mm fan fit..?..Thanks.Devin

David Mosher has his set up with Midi fan 6s at 900 watts. It radar at
117 mph. That is fast enough for some folks never fly anything over 100mph.
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 03:07 PM
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Great Tam Ill be calling you at the begining of the week,and the fan I have is the Himax 96mm fan.Thanks all Im soooo looking foward to getting this jet..Devin
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Old Dec 12, 2008, 08:24 AM
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Wow im surprised a 8lb airplane would fly on 900 watts. And Devin, if you havent already purchased this plane, when you get it, you will love the quality of it. Tam didnt half ass this one nor anyother kit he sells. Thanks again Tam for my new toy!!!
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Old Dec 13, 2008, 04:57 AM
climb and maintain FL200
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ducting adhesive?

Has anyone used any adhesive to join the ducting to itself or the motor? I thought I had seen some in a posted picture but there is none in Tam's pic.

If not is it held in place by pressure?
Thanks
Warren
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Old Dec 13, 2008, 05:17 AM
Lee Liddle
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Most folks use tape. I`ve seen a few use silicone.
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Old Dec 13, 2008, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whansen
Has anyone used any adhesive to join the ducting to itself or the motor? ...
Yes ... As shown in the pictures I posted earlier, I used GE Silicone II adhesive and a bit of duct tape over it.
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Old Dec 13, 2008, 04:08 PM
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I've been doing some work on one of the Thunderbirds, and have been keeping notes and photos for my buds Steve and Mike. Trying to mock-up a decent looking undercarriage. And locate the gear mounts to make it work. Other progress shown also. Doug
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Old Dec 13, 2008, 05:59 PM
Lee Liddle
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Good work. Are you planning to make a hole in the back side of the esc housing to encourage flow-through air?
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Old Dec 13, 2008, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knife Liddle
Good work. Are you planning to make a hole in the back side of the esc housing to encourage flow-through air?
Oh - yeah, just haven't got that far yet. I have to figure out how to piece it all together and whether to hard wire the esc to motor. I had excellent service from my esc's when mounted in this way. (in duct airflow). I'm keeping as much weight to the rear as possible so if it's tail heavy i just scoot the lipos forward from their position against the hatch former. I did an all up weight with all the hardware in the jet and it was 8lb-6oz. Doug
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Old Dec 13, 2008, 06:54 PM
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Looks good Doug .
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Old Dec 13, 2008, 07:10 PM
Purple power
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The struts look great!
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Old Dec 13, 2008, 08:13 PM
DELTAS RULE
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doug, that nose strut is nice. looks to be a robart, but i cant seem tofind one with the swept back fork like that...where did you get it? that wouldbe perfect for my cougar!
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Old Dec 13, 2008, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair nut
doug, that nose strut is nice. looks to be a robart, but i cant seem tofind one with the swept back fork like that...where did you get it? that wouldbe perfect for my cougar!
Robart makes this strut for the Yellow A-4. Contact Yellow and if they don't have one Contact Robart directly. That's how i got mine. Doug
P.S. The Cougar is sweet.
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